Show me how you modified your tranny pan to make this combo work......

You don't mod the trans pan, you need a carrier bearing and a 2 piece driveshaft. The carrier bearing has a pillow block that you mount next to the trans; thus keeping the driveshaft out of the trans

As stated above most are running a two piece shaft. There was a guy on CAOS in Alabama that had cut his pan to clearance a shaft. Someone from that group may post up.

I thought it thru before installing the combo and offset the whole drivetrain a couple degress so that I could run a 1 piece driveshaft and be fine.

if you have it installed already then you be better off running teeny shaft or a 2 piece.

i'm running a stak d300 RAC case with a th350. on top of that, my front d60 is narrowed 6", bringing the pumpkin in even closer to the center of the jeep. my solution was a necked-down shaft. i've done a couple similar to this, and they have always worked. of course, it helps that i have a lathe to machine the pieces to make it all fit together tightly and straight before welding.

edit: i should mention that my RAC case is a driver side drop case, thereby giving me more clearance around the tranny than a passenger drop situation.

http://wehrs.no-ip.com/projects_pages/2008.01.11_d300/DSCN5554.JPG




the rig we are building for RC KOH right now will need a shaft that has an extremely thin neckdown to clear the upper link mount on the frame end of the front axle. i will neck that shaft all the way down to a d44 shaft diameter

when I ran a 727 with a d300, I had to clearance the pan to work with the front shaft. I did it by picking up a short piece of 3.5 in exhaust tube, cut it length wise to make a half pipe and then section it into the pan where the shaft would have hit it. I gained about 1.5in of clearance and it was enough to run a 2.5in dia front shaft.

Pretty sure there you will have a helluva a time to run a straight front d-shaft with a pass dump front axle, 700R4 and D300 combo. I ran it wih the TH 350 and it was tight. The pan on the 700 is offset more on the right side, so i don't see it happening.
I am running a D300/700R4 combo with the 300 clocked flat. I flipped it to the driver's side and went with a Ford D60. Now I have no problem running a 2.5" front driveshaft.

i like the idea of necking down the driveshaft as long as it is thick wall tubing it should be fine....i dont know we will see what happens when i try it this week

I did it but it was tight. Jesse at High Angle made the shaft for me. It's a long travel shaft, not because I need that much travel but because it was small enough to fit next to the trans.

For what I paid for that shaft, I'd just run a 2 piece if I were to do it again.

Pretty sure there you will have a helluva a time to run a straight front d-shaft with a pass dump front axle, 700R4 and D300 combo. I ran it wih the TH 350 and it was tight. The pan on the 700 is offset more on the right side, so i don't see it happening.
I am running a D300/700R4 combo with the 300 clocked flat. I flipped it to the driver's side and went with a Ford D60. Now I have no problem running a 2.5" front driveshaft.


Any chance you can post up pics? Thats what I would like to do but thought I would have to use a 205.

Any chance you can post up pics? Thats what I would like to do but thought I would have to use a 205.

It's pretty close but I have never had any problems .

Any chance you can post up pics? Thats what I would like to do but thought I would have to use a 205.

These are old pics. From 2005, but they are the most recent that I have showing the Tcase.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/deanjeep/Jeep/n722851910_703388_2513.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/deanjeep/Jeep/n722851910_703389_7478.jpg

It's pretty close but I have never had any problems .

Running mine the same way for three years. Haven't had any interference issues.

These are old pics. From 2005, but they are the most recent that I have showing the Tcase.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/deanjeep/Jeep/n722851910_703388_2513.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/deanjeep/Jeep/n722851910_703389_7478.jpg

Thanks, is your motor centered in the frame? What are your spring centers?

Here's a Novak adapter with a 4L60E

http://www.cj-8.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8334&d=1166538619

I run that combo but ive clocked my 300 up and there is plenty of clearance

Running the combo here, too. When I swapped in the by 5.7, I read somewhere that you should position your drivetrain ~1.5 toward the driver's side. In fact, I believe (but may be wrong) that a stock CJ had the drivetrain offeset to the driver side, too.

Anyway, I set mine up that way and have no clearane issues with the front shaft. That is with a D44 at about 61" wms-wms and the same diameter front shaft as stock.

well i raised my motor up about 2 inches because it say so low before that it was just not right...and because of this i think if i grind down just a little off the lip on the tranny pan i will be able to clear a stock size driveshaft, and if not one that is just a tad bit smaller...im taking it to the driveshaft shop tomorrow morning so i will let you all know what the deal is

Ok shoot me, but just drop the T/C an inch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clocking-Ring-for-dana-300,np-231,np-241,np-208,-Jeep_W0QQitemZ150330427218QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks, is your motor centered in the frame? What are your spring centers?

Everything is centered. Bottom of the case is probably up about 1.5 inches from bottom of the frame.
Unfortunately for me, my front D60 is out of a 88 f350 so it has 36" spring centers. With the 44 TSLs it really hurts the turning radius. Linking the front will be happening...
Good friend of mine is running the same setup with a 79 Ford D60 which has the 31" centers. He has no clearance issues with his front shaft

Here's a Novak adapter with a 4L60E


I don't see a pic. I also wanted to use the Novak adapter but I've heard they are very short and it's difficult to run twin sticks.

Thanks, is your motor centered in the frame? What are your spring centers?


can you please tell me what input you used for the dana 300 or did you change the main shaft of the tranny , did you use a clocking ring if so which , if not why . and what would you do diffrent next time and why . thank you fill free to pm me so as to not further highjack the tread.
:p

I used and AA D300 input shaft, stock GM 205/208 adapter (don't remember anymore, it has been years since I did it), no clocking ring. I machined the D300 case and modified the adapter a bit to mate them together. Why? Two reasons really. I was/am to cheap to buy the whole adapter from AA, and I have the equipment to do it. Acually three reasons I guess, just wanted to see if it would work. So far so good, it has held up to the 350 and 4:1 gears in the 300, plus I run 5.13s and 44 TSLs.

well i had a drive shaft made just like the one in the above pictre...They used the stock diamater drive shaft and then replaced the part near the pan with solid stock and turned it down on the lathe...i did a little grinding on the lip of the pan and cleared with VERY little room to spare...i flexed it out in the shop and drive shaft never hit. So im happy...ill post pics later as i forgot to snap a few

Any pics? Im doing this swap in my YJ, 360/727/300 pass side drop and can see this being a problem.

I clearanced the skid plate with a 12 pound sledge, and I clearanced the tranny pan with a 2 pounder.
I also offset the engine to the drivers side about 1.25 inches.
I used to run advance adapters inside framerail headers, so the offset didnt hurt anything on my jeep.
Ive had zero issues with this setup.
Ive been running this combo for about about10 years.
:)

Any pics? Im doing this swap in my YJ, 360/727/300 pass side drop and can see this being a problem.


I just used a thick wall, stock CJ style front driveline. The driveline itself has not been an issue at all.

Best picture I have

http://www.marbryson.com/Jeepbuild/700-driveline.jpg


...and yes, my exhaust is built as stupidly as possible. Please refrain from pointing that out.

Jeepeater, I have run your set up and had a small issue. I now have 350sbc/700r4/dana300 and the clearance is about the same. I actually ground down the pan and a small amount on the transmission flange. I use a small diameter driveshaft (1.5 w/ .250 walled) I have full width Dana 60 and I have about 1/4 inch of clearance. My 300 is clocked almost flat, which makes it closer.

Sounds like ill just run a small diameter DS. I really don't want to move the drivetrain over and make some room with a BFH if need to.

Thanks for the help

Not to try send business to any one shop, but Tom at Carolina Driveline just did a front shaft for me and it turned out great. I sent him some thick walled 1.5" DOM and he machined down the slip yoke to fit the tube and installed a long travel slip w/ a 1350 joint at the pumkin w/ a bastard 1350/1310 u joint. (my 60 is older and still has the 1310 yoke) That way, if I ever upgrade my yoke on the axle, I don't have to retool my driveshaft. The thick wall stuff is not recommended for highway/road speeds, but it looks very balanced to me. I have selectable hubs only run the front axle on the trail so, no issues w/ me. Very happy w/ their work.
My brother in law is running your drivetrain set up in his 74 Landcruiser and is in the middle of doing a 2 piece shaft w the carrier bearing. He is still having some issues w/ clearance and the exhaust. I kinda feel, the more parts, the more chances of breaking something. He runs Dana 44s front and rear and a 2" shaft. Very close on the pan clearance.

In the planning phase, it would have been wise to do a driverside drop front axle, like the 79Ford D60 you mentioned. The Stak 300 can be purchasd as a left hand drop. If you have a YJ or any vehicle where space is an issue and are intent on using a Dana 300with a GM automatic, you will find that it creates major driveshaft alignment problems. I would recommend changing to a driverside drop transfer case, in the long run it will save you $$$.