Figure I'll start a build thread for my Jeep as just today I've more-or-less crossed the point of no return.

Before we get to that, here's a quick run-down from beginning to now:

I got my bone stock 03 TJ a week or so after graduating high school in 07 w/ about 30k miles on it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/000_1479.jpg

Left the dealership I was working at for another w/ much better pay and benefits, needless to say the surplus of funds all went into my Jeep. Ended up w/ a 3" FT lift, JKS discos, RE rear trackbar/bracket, AA SYE and CV driveshaft, 33x10.50" TSL radials, U-Pol Raptor'd interior, BESRK's rear bumper/tire carrier, JKS rear upper CAs, an AEV engine skid, Poison Spyder steering gear skid, AtoZ rocker gaurds, a CB radio, and some other little crap. About $4300 total spent.:laughing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/IMGP0248.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Shaynea-Jeep%20photo%20shoot/000_2752.jpg

Up until a month or two ago I was planning on building a HP D30 w/ WJ knuckles/brakes/steering. I even went so far as to gathering all the parts for that swap.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/mods%20in%20the%20works/100_0296.jpg

Then I scored a pair of built axles from a member of the PBB(toyokrawler) for $2100. All hell broke loose since I got my tax return:p

Chevy D60:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/100_0402.jpg

and D70HD:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/100_0403.jpg

They are about 65" WMS-WMS, built w/ 5.38 gears, detroit lockers F/R, alloy 35spl shafts in the 70, alloy 35spl stub shafts up front, and loaded w/ what appears to be 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton disc brakes all around. Can anyone confirm this? Is there any difference between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton calipers?

About a week ago I pulled all the stock crap out from under the Jeep:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0101007.jpg

D70 vs D44:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0101008.jpg

D60 vs D30:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0097.jpg

Stuff laying all over the garage:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0098.jpg

I'll be welding with my Hobart 140A machine on flux core. Kirby did it so I should be able to. Any questionable/highly stressed welds will be gone over w/ a 220v machine by a good friend of mine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0094.jpg

My buddy Niko vs D70:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0093.jpg

And just today I cut nearly all the stock brackets off the frame. Using a 4-1/2" angle grinder, a big prybar, a hammer and chisel it took about 6 hours to do all the LCA brackets, the rear trackbar bracket, the R/R coil bucket, and half of the L/R coil bucket(lots of fuel lines in the way, need to move the tank before I get that all the way out).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0307.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0307003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0307001.jpg

Also picked up a D300 for the build:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0307005.jpg

Plans are:
106-110" wheelbase
40" LTBs on 17" Allied beadlocks
D300 w/ upgraded outputs, 4:1 in the future
Leaf springs SOA in the rear w/ traction bar
3-link front w/ coils, possibly reuse my FT 3" coils(netted me closer to 3.75 or so)
Hydro assist
Stock 4.0 for a while, maybe 5.2/5.9 in future but I'll wait til the I6 bites the dust
NV3550

Project Dookey and SlinkyBlueBalls were the primary inspirations for this. It should have a low COG for the most part. As long as the front bumper is under the 29" VA state limit I'll be fine.

My frame is currently on jackstands 3" higher than it was with 3" FT lift springs and 33x10.50 tires. Here are the measurements BEFORE/TARGET:

-Front bumper height: 24.5" / 27.5"
-Rear bumper height: 22.0" / 25.5"
-Frame belly height: 19.5" / 22.75" (NOT at the stock skidplate, at the frame rails)
-Rocker height: 23.5" / 26.5"
-Width from the outside of the tires: 68.5" / 78-84"
-Front diff clearance(D30): 10.5" / ?
-Rear diff clearance(D44): 9.5" / ?

My target deadline is 7/1/09 so I can work out any crap wrong w/ it before the wedding.

Let the build begin!

edit: Failed deadline... it gets done when it gets done.

The build should be relatively fast-paced funds-permitting. At the dealer I work at we're loaded w/ work and are working 11hr days to get it all done so that kind of eats up my Jeep time in the middle of the week. On the other hand I can start buying stuff :D

It will be a somewhat slow start so for the time being here's some eye-candy:smokin:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Shaynea-Jeep%20photo%20shoot/000_2760.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Shaynea-Jeep%20photo%20shoot/000_2752.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Shaynea-Jeep%20photo%20shoot/000_2759.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Shaynea-Jeep%20photo%20shoot/000_2763.jpg

:flipoff2:

For anyone that cares to see my "bolt-on" build from stock to now it is here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457119

tits or gtfo :flipoff2:

So any other plans on the build? Engine swap? Coilovers? Cage? 4-link?

tits or gtfo :flipoff2:

So any other plans on the build? Engine swap? Coilovers? Cage? 4-link?

Haha they belong to me :flipoff2:

Engine swap: possibly far in the future.

Cage: definitely, but it will be done after it is back running and driving. Won't do any "real" wheeling before one is in. Primary goal is to get it road-worthy first.

Coilovers: I've been entertaining the thought of some FOA coilovers for the front, but for the time being I'm planning on coils and shocks

4-link: Eventually as I'm sure there will be something funny with the leaf springs, but given my time-frame and budget, leafs will get the job done for now. The cost of brackets/links/joints/jam nuts/hardware/tubing adapters/etc add up real fast.

Right now I'm planning on running Ballistic 2.63" joints on the front lowers, and Ballistic 3" joints for the single upper arm.

Got a little bit done today. Attempted to clean up the rear axle. The PO welded the brackets on with what seems to be some stupid high power stick welder. With about 3-4 passes. Total PITA to grind off. Still need the nubs of where they used to be ground down. Not taking off the leaf spring brackets just yet, if they're usable I'll run them, if not then off they will go.

I left part of the 4-link mount on top as I plan on utilizing it to make a "truss" to tie the tubes into the pumpkin and each other.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0308.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0308002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0308001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0308004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0308005.jpg

Also got the other rear coil bucket off and cleaned up the frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0308003.jpg

What are you like 19 and your getting married? Why nail your coffin shut so young. Run for your life!!!!! Nice build by the way

What are you like 19 and your getting married? Why nail your coffin shut so young. Run for your life!!!!! Nice build by the way

x2, though I don't see my life as ruined, I know it's not as awesome as it could be..
< Married at 21.

Got married at 19... that was 20 years ago.
Wouldn't change a day.

Good Luck with the build!
- Peter
1988 Golden Eagle (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3122541)

What are you like 19 and your getting married? Why nail your coffin shut so young. Run for your life!!!!! Nice build by the way



x2, though I don't see my life as ruined, I know it's not as awesome as it could be..
< Married at 21.

Nah, my woman is awesome. She's really cool about my Jeep addiction too, she just wants it done before the wedding so we can ride off into the sunset in it:flipoff2:

Got married at 19... that was 20 years ago.
Wouldn't change a day.

Good Luck with the build!
- Peter
1988 Golden Eagle (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3122541)

Sounds like you have a good taste in ladies as well. Congratulations.




Oh and I'm 20 btw:p

Doing this while I'm still living at home as well, the garage is my dad's and he's cool as hell for letting me use it.

The goal is to have it sitting on it's own weight by mid-April so I can get it into the driveway so he can get back to building furniture and stuff. For the time being I think he's enjoying his break from my mom harping on him about making stuff for the house:laughing:

Ordered my ballistic joints for the front 3-link(4 2.62" joints and 2 3.0" joints), and a bunch of steel. Going to give making my own brackets a whirl. At least some of them.

48" of each of the following:
-1/4" x 7" plate steel
-3/16" x 5" x 2" rectangular tubing
-3/8" x 5" x 2" C-channel

Good luck on the build man! Any idea on how you are going to sneak the driveshaft through on the passenger side? I am having to figure out the same deal on my build

Good luck on the build man! Any idea on how you are going to sneak the driveshaft through on the passenger side? I am having to figure out the same deal on my build

Thanks! I'll probably opt for a 1" MM lift and clock my D300 as needed. Clocking is DEFINITELY needed, the t-case bolts up but the large end is literally hanging down at about the 4 to 5 o'clock position:eek: I think a clocking ring, AA twin sticks, and a rear output will go in initially to get it rolling. I'll add the front output and 4:1 gears when I find the time and money.

If worse comes to worse, a very narrow driveshaft w/ kinda thick wall tubing will be the way I go, I'd like to avoid a 2 pc driveshaft but if it's gotta happen then it's gotta happen.

Here are some pics from the last week up to tonight(I think they're in chronological order):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0315001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0315005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0315006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0315007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0315.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0317001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0317002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0317003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0317005.jpg

Got Shaynea in the garage tonight and showed her how to use the grinder. She's friggin awesome:smokin:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0320010.jpg

Got probably another 1-2 hours worth of grinding to do on the front axle, but hopefully by the end of this weekend I'll have the gas tank out and know more-or-less where the rear will sit. Need to round up some bushings for the XJ leaf springs.

Ordered some stuff from RuffStuff for my rear leaf spring mounting. Also did the comp-cut today:) The gas tank is out of the way too. Found leaf spring bushings from Napa, went to literally 3 other parts stores first and every single one of them were retarded. At Pepboys I had to tell the counter guy to look under "suspension parts." :shaking:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0322008.jpg

Good luck with your deadline. Im getting married middle of June and started a one ton build on my TJ 2 months ago. Yea the fiance was fine with it then...........but oh how things changed my man! She is ready to kill me and dynamite the Jeep. I thought I had it all done last night, took it out this morning for a little street test without the rear diff/truss tie in bolted up... big mistake! I thought the upper arm brackets were strong enough for the street without the diff tie in. Nope.

Dude, I'd highly suggest against using anything I did as motivation. :flipoff2:




In for the updates.

Good luck with your deadline. Im getting married middle of June and started a one ton build on my TJ 2 months ago. Yea the fiance was fine with it then...........but oh how things changed my man! She is ready to kill me and dynamite the Jeep. I thought I had it all done last night, took it out this morning for a little street test without the rear diff/truss tie in bolted up... big mistake! I thought the upper arm brackets were strong enough for the street without the diff tie in. Nope.

Wow that really sucks... I'm guessing you killed your driveshaft and possibly some brake lines and suspension links? Good luck with the build, I know I'm on borrowed time with her nerves so I'm trying to scramble to make some visual progress :laughing:

Dude, I'd highly suggest against using anything I did as motivation. :flipoff2:




In for the updates.


Haha too late :flipoff2: I PMed youa while back but never got a reply, I was wondering how you liked your ridiculous long wheelbase? I'm thinking I'll stretch the front enough to clear the stock inner fender(metal part towards the tub) so I think it'll be in the 108-110 area possibly.

Also got a link to pics of Project Dookey? Your damn build thread disappeared a month or two before I actually started my own build you pecker head :flipoff2:

:D

Haha too late :flipoff2: I PMed youa while back but never got a reply, I was wondering how you liked your ridiculous long wheelbase? I'm thinking I'll stretch the front enough to clear the stock inner fender(metal part towards the tub) so I think it'll be in the 108-110 area possibly.

Also got a link to pics of Project Dookey? Your damn build thread disappeared a month or two before I actually started my own build you pecker head :flipoff2:

:D



I loved the wheelbase and never regretted going that long. But out here where I go wheelin lots of wheelbase is a good thing. The front approach angle was awesome and I will do the same again.

It made stuff like this rather simple.

YouTube - Down Waterfall (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T06b7tQb5VU)

I have all the pictures you will ever need. If you want to see something specific just send me a PM and I will get them back to you. Or at least try. :flipoff2:

Nah, my woman is awesome. She's really cool about my Jeep addiction too, she just wants it done before the wedding so we can ride off into the sunset in it:flipoff2:

I tried the same plan....8 months after the wedding it still sits awaiting my free time. I wish you better luck than I had with deadlines!

cool little build you got going.

Any plans for a fuel cell or relocating the stock tank? Are you going to try and keep this streetable?

I loved the wheelbase and never regretted going that long. But out here where I go wheelin lots of wheelbase is a good thing. The front approach angle was awesome and I will do the same again.

It made stuff like this rather simple.

YouTube - Down Waterfall (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T06b7tQb5VU)

I have all the pictures you will ever need. If you want to see something specific just send me a PM and I will get them back to you. Or at least try. :flipoff2:

Alright thanks!

I tried the same plan....8 months after the wedding it still sits awaiting my free time. I wish you better luck than I had with deadlines!

Wow, I definitely need it out before the deadline so failure is not an option :eek: Good luck with your build!

cool little build you got going.

Any plans for a fuel cell or relocating the stock tank? Are you going to try and keep this streetable?

Fuel cell: probably eventually, but for now I will be strapping the stock tank down in the back. Right now I'm debating spending $$ for nice fittings on the fuel lines to run stainless through the tub, or just cut the fittings on the tank end off and run rubber fuel hoses w/ clamps.

Definitely will be streetable, believe it or not it will pass VA state inspection laws w/ ease. The only thing that it -could- fail for is the "no modifications that increase turning radius" so if worse comes to worse I'll buy some sick 60 degree knuckles/joints/whatever it needs to do that. :p

edit: forgot to post the damn pictures.

Cut the front fenders today:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0187.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0182.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0184.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF0186.jpg

Also got a ton of goodies from Ruff-Stuff today :) I've gotta say they are the absolute best vendor I've dealt with so far, I ordered on Sunday and the stuff shipped Monday and recieved Wednesday today. Unfortunately the spring perches and u-bolt plates were forgotten, but a quick call to Dan and got that sorted out. He's such an awesome guy he's rushing them to my door.

Still waiting on joints from Ballistic for front end mock-up and bracket building.

Got my tires yesterday :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0404002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0404003.jpg

There's my daily driver while the Jeep is down.

Unfortunately it appears one of the tires has some sort of weird defect/incomplete molding on the inside:(

I'm contacting NTW to figure out what's up.

edit: I was just informed in a thread I started in General 4x4 that it's a balancing patch. Normal.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0404007.jpg

I also made up some simple brackets to bolt the OEM fuel tank in the back seat area. Ran the fuel lines through the tub and it started right up :D Used some fuel injection line, some Chrysler fuel line connectors, and fuel line clamps from Advance. Total cost of that stuff was roughly $100.

Haven't hooked up any emissions crap yet, doing some searching on how to entirely delete everything or semi-cleanly mount it inside.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0404.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0404001.jpg

I'm getting a main bumper piece from Eddie(BESRK) with the reciever hitch welded in and my D-ring tabs as well. I got a TJ bumper mounting kit from Rokmen which I'll be doing myself. Also have the way-back shackle hangers from Ruff-Stuff.

Here's some pics of what went on today, painted everything for the tank mounting, figured out what to do for the emissions crap, and not pictured I started mocking up my rear bumper, didn't weld anything yet, I have just a little bit more 0.030 wire to burn off so I've been (attempting) teaching Shaynea how to weld with that last bit before I start using the 0.035 wire for the rest of the stuff.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405005.jpg

If you are familiar with the evap system, you'll notice that I changed the order in which stuff goes. It's supposed to go to the charcoal canister > NVLD > filter breather. I changed it to NVLD > charcoal canister > filter breather. I've read about people removing the canister portion entirely and only keeping the NVLD without problems, I want to keep the charcoal canister to keep from smelling gas fumes constantly.

I just need to extend the wire harness to the NVLD.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405009.jpg

More evap goodies:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405012.jpg

If you look in the first 2 pics, I used one of the existing self-tapping screws that originally held the NVLD to it's bracket, to actually hold it to the mounting hole for the stock gas tank skid. I used some washers so it didn't pull through obviously but it is sturdy enough for what it is.

And the ever fabulous tie-down strap holding the charcoal canister down :rofl: For the time being it works so I'll let it eat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405016.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0405017.jpg

:flipoff2:

That gas tank is pretty ghetto. :flipoff2: Cool build though. Keep it up.

That gas tank is pretty ghetto. :flipoff2: Cool build though. Keep it up.

Nothing wrong with a little afro-engineering :flipoff2:



-----------------------

I figure I'll post some of the welds holding my bumper mounts on so I can correct my technique before I go any further. Still have the vertical welds on them to do.

I got the main bumper piece w/ d-ring tabs and hitch welded in from BESRK, I'm doing the rest myself.

Hobart Handler 140amp

0.035" flux core wire

Heat all the way at 4(out of 4), wire speed was about 40 IIRC, recommended is 50 but much over 45 seems to push the gun back at me and spatter/spark.

Bumper itself is 3/16" and the mounts are 1" solid stock.

This first one I wasn't comfortable yet and it was awkward, definitely need to go over again.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407.jpg

This one is actually 2 passes, the first one I got the bottom of the gun stuck against the sawhorse it was resting on and went too far away from the joint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0407007.jpg

I've noticed that I think I'm stopping a tad too soon and need to let the puddle build up at the end of each bead on the corners(I go from L to R in all of them IIRC). Is this assumption correct?

You are stopping and starting to far in on the material. The weld isn't covering the entire work area. And you are burning it too hot. Are you pushing or pulling the puddle?

Thanks Dookey.

I'll try some different stuff tonight:smokin:

You're doing OK kid. The welding will come. Nice low-buck tank thinkin'

Tried making 2-3 passes on each joint tonight. I tried using a bit lower heat but it just doesn't get much penetration, so I tried speeding up a bit instead. Keep in mind some of these are ugly due to covering up crap welds from last night:shaking:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0408000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0408002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0408004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0408005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0408006.jpg


FWIW I don't think they'll just plain break or anything, pretty solid IMO, just a tad ugly :mr-t:

I got the cleanest welds by making a very slow straight pass on heat level "3", then going over once above and once below on level "4" in circles.

Also found out that a clean helmet face shield is invaluable... cleaned it out halfway through and the welds instantly started looking much better by comparison. Mainly they were'nt walking out of the joint like a drunk holding the gun. :p

Hey man, Jeep project is looking good. I just did a bunch of work to mine and I am fairly local to you out here in Chesapeake. If you need any help I've got a decent amount of equipment and can help ya get a better grasp in the MIG work. I've got a 220 machine and suitcase TIG so I have no problems helping you out.

Hey man, Jeep project is looking good. I just did a bunch of work to mine and I am fairly local to you out here in Chesapeake. If you need any help I've got a decent amount of equipment and can help ya get a better grasp in the MIG work. I've got a 220 machine and suitcase TIG so I have no problems helping you out.

Thanks dude, I'll try to remember to drop you a PM at some point for a bit of help.

Anyways, it was kind of a shitty weekend. My 240sx had the timing chain tensioner self destruct and it took out the crankshaft timing gears and likely the chain too. I think I've got another vehicle I'm going to try and get for cheap hopefully this week. I did get a little bit of stuff done.

I went to Northern on my lunch break Friday to get some welding helmet shields. None were in stock for my $50 cheapie helmet so I left with a Hobart XVP:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412002.jpg

I can see things so much better.

Got one of my tires mounted on my Allied Daytonas. 17x9.5".

They fit great, easy to install, little time-consuming torquing the bolts but not too terrible.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412004.jpg

Got a $5 "diet scale" from walmart so I could measure out 14oz of BBs to throw in:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412.jpg

For reference I bought two 4000 cans of BBs, I used all of one and just a bit of the second. I'd estimate about 1050-1100 BBs in each bag were measured out.

My Ballistic Joints have been here for a little while, just haven't gotten around to taking pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412007.jpg

It took a while to get them, I got the 2.63" joints after like 3.5 weeks, got the 3.0" joints about 1.5 weeks after that. Aside from the wait time, I'm very pleased with these things, they're beefy as HELL!


And also managed to get the rear bumper mounted and in place. Now it's time to start getting the rear suspension mocked up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0412006.jpg

Those welds are a bit more concave than I'd like, but they're not under a ton of stress so I'm pretty sure they'll be more than good.

Nice build!

Flatlander....Were did you get those spring hangers in the first picture of post #20, title "cut fenders today" those are nice I need a set of those:smokin::smokin: THANKS....

All my brackets are from Ruffstuff. Awesome products and awesome service!

Got some stuff done tonight. Tacked the spring shackle perches in place and also mounted a second tire. I still need to do the final torquing and then air it up, but my back was killing me and it was getting late.

Shaynea was awesome and got a bunch of pics of the beadlock install process:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413010.jpg

After you're done unpacking all your goodies, now it's time to pull the valvestem through. I can do it w/ a pair of side-cutters without galling the threads because I'm crazy awesome like that. A valvestem installing tool is quite nice to have but I'm not about to go out and buy one for 4 wheels.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413013.jpg

Now the fun part... lay the tire down over the rim(note: lubing the inner bead w/ soapy water works wonders, I did this one dry as it had a bit of goo left from the tire forming process):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413014.jpg

Now hump it into place:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413015.jpg

Until you achieve victory:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413016.jpg

Don't forget the Pirate Salute at an opportune time

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413017.jpg

Then I moved everything over a bucket to make everything easier for bolting the beadlock ring on:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413019.jpg

Start gathering bolts. Chances are you'll need 2-4 longer bolts to get everything started. I had some longer bolts but they were a bit too long, I just put washers under them to make them usable.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413020.jpg

My "starter" bolts compared to 2 of the supplied beadlock bolts:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413021.jpg

Before that if you're putting any balancing beads in, now is the time to do so. I measured out 14oz of steel BBs for each.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413026.jpg

Started:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413022.jpg

Keep in mind to ensure the tire is nice and centered in the ring.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413023.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413024.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413028.jpg

Note I used an impact to get them all started and to speed things up. I learned from the first wheel about how far down the bolts need to go so I wouldn't go past. Always do the final torquing w/ a torque wrench in the manufacturer's recommended pattern. I did mine to 15 ft-lbs(spec is 12-15 ft-lbs).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413029.jpg

I still need to do the final torquing about 2 more times as my back called it quits for tonight, but you basically do that 3-4 times total and then air it up and check for leaks.

And here's a few pics of the rear bumper spring shackle hangers being tacked on:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413030.jpg

That's all for now :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0413015.jpg


You're doing it wrong! :flipoff2:


you're supposed to get the wife to do it. :p

:flipoff2:

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/tiremount4.jpg

Dookey...the uh....wheels...are beautiful... :flipoff2:

Haha I'll see if she can do the last 2 :lol:

Dookey...the uh....wheels...are beautiful... :flipoff2:

Didn't you know? She is gracing the front page of the TJ ultimate build thread. :smokin:


Haha I'll see if she can do the last 2 :lol:

Haha. Anya tried to help mount 1 tire to the wheel and it just wasn't happening. She helped me mount the outer rings but that's it. I know exactly how you feel after running the torque wrench on all those bolts. It is best to spread that out over a few days. :laughing:

Rear suspension is nearing the end of mock-up stage, getting close to finalizing and welding it all in permanantly. Just need to figure out what I'm going to do for the front of the leaf spring mounts to the frame. The ones I ordered are a bit too big, will be starting on the front soon. I'm pretty sure some more trimming and/or some 2" or so wheel spacers may be in order.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0417.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0417006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0417001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0417002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0417005.jpg

:thumbsup:

Note: it will be SOA, not SUA as the pics may appear, the leaf springs aren't attached to anything on the frame, they're just resting on jack stands under the axle for mock-up purposes. If for some reason I can't get it to sit low enough then SUA is a possibility but I'll have to buy new springs so I'd rather that not happen.

Also notice I flipped my shackle hangers opposite of where they were in the last post. It would be sitting WAY too high. I'm anticipating for the rear to be about 2-3 inches higher than I had hoped for. It's either that or SUA so we'll see. I think some 4" shackles(vs the 5" shackles I have now) can also help out a little. It'll also move the rear axle forward a bit of where it's sitting in the pics which will help w/ wheel-well clearance.

Are you planning on frenching the front of the springs into the frame?

I thought about it, but IMO it won't be worth it as I'm pretty sure in a few years I'll go ahead and do a 4-link so I'd rather not hack up more than what I need to.

I'd rather the Jeep sit a few inches high in the rear or go SUA before cutting the frame up to fit leaf springs.

The rear bumper is still like 5 or 6" below the VA limit of 30" so it COULD go up quite a bit and still be legal to drive which is my main concern.

If my JC Whitney "HD" XJ springs sit too high, I have a friend who is giving me free used XJ springs to lower it some as well.

I'm also thinking a shorter shackle will help too.

Got the rear suspension figured out this weekend :thumbsup:

Pulled the rear bumper off, welded up all the spring shackle hanger mounts and also added the safety chain mount to the hitch.

Measured the shackle angles, guessed about where it should be with the springs free of weight, tacked the front spring mounts in place, loaded the springs w/ my jack and it appears I should be only 2in higher than expected w/ a 45 or so degree shackle angle(in relation to the end of the spring). I'm guessing they will break-in/sag another 1 to 1-1/2in so it will be perfect.

I was excited and forgot to take pics of loading the spring.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0419003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0419001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0419004.jpg

Roughly where the tires should sit:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0419006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0419005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0419005.jpg

That pig needs a shave and mabe throw in a cv or two for that driveline angle :flipoff2:

Bumper looks good

That pig needs a shave and mabe throw in a cv or two for that driveline angle :flipoff2:

Bumper looks good

Really? I thought that with a CV shaft the pinion should point at the ground? :laughing:

Keep up the good work man...build looks good and I'm also gonna run some GM 1 tons in my TJ along with a 231/300 so I'm anxious to see where this build goes.

Keep up the good work man...build looks good and I'm also gonna run some GM 1 tons in my TJ along with a 231/300 so I'm anxious to see where this build goes.

Thanks, I'll probably just do a 300 w/ 4:1 planned in the future due to cost and time restraints. It's not out of the question for the future :)

Rear sitting on it's own weight:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420008.jpg

Shackle angle at full droop:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420001.jpg

The axle is about 1in from the ground, I could tap it and it would hit. Flex should be quite nice:D

It is a bit higher than I had hoped for, but I gotta wait for the springs to break in before I start fiddling w/ shackle length and removing leaves.

Nice! How far did you stretch the rear?

What are your plans for the front? Links or springs.... Keep up the good work

french

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=995694&l=ed7810e056&id=502828719

OklahomaYJ: The plan is 3-link front w/ coils, If I ABSOLUTELY must, I'll go for coilovers but I'm trying to keep it cheap w/ coil springs.

blysccr: No, chances are I'll eventually 4-link the rear so I don't want to hack up the frame more than I need to.

I actually measured my Jeep today when I got home from work at it settled 1in lower than last night, went from just under 30" to just under 29" so I'm sure with time it will be right. Either way it's so close to being the right height that I'm not going to go through the trouble of frenching.

...

Tonight I pulled the wheels off the axle and dropped everything off the frame so I could burn in the spring hangers properly:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0421003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0421.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0421002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0421004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0421005.jpg


Ran out of energy after making one pass around everything with a run to Dairy Queen to keep Shaynea happy. I skipped around in 2in long beads so as not to heat anything up enough to warp crap. I'll bolt everything up again tomorrow so I'm going to cross my fingers ;)

Also I've got a question... should my leaf springs look like this? I'm thinking the spring plates on top are too wide for the 2.5" springs/pads...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0420010.jpg

They shouldn't go anywhere since the through bolt is in the leaf perch. Just be sure that you torque the ubolts well and do it again after you put some miles on it.

Pics of front axle mocked in place.

Steering box rotate will definitely be needed:(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0427.jpg

My D300 clocking ring was ordered last night through Advance Adapters so I can get my D300 mounted and clocked so I can know exactly where the d-shaft will be.

I think I'm going to give a shot at building my own twin-stick shifters for it as $160 for some rods, rod ends, and a piece of bent steel is a little steep IMO. I think I can get it done for under $75 or so.

Will be doing cardboard mock-ups of my 3-link brackets tonight so I can get it sitting on it's own weight.

The driveshaft/bellhousing/starter clearance looks a bit tight on the passenger side. I guess I didn't realize just how tight it was. It looks like it'll work though. How far did you manage to stretch the front?

The front is roughly 3" forward. I think any less and I'll have issues w/ the tire scrubbing the back of the fenders.

I've either gotta rotate the steering box or cut/remove even more of the front fenders. I think that the stretch is worth it and the box cut/rotate isn't too hard. I'm going to see if I can find a small(1-2") drop pitman arm because I THINK I just might have enough clearance with that.

As much as I hate to raise it even more, my 1" BL and MML will help with radiator and starter/bellhousing clearance greatly. (Not installed yet).

I think you're right about the 1''MM and 1'' BL. I may have to do the same thing to mine. I plan on running full hydro in the front so steering clearance won't be an issue. Looks great so far. I can't wait to see the finished product.

Cut the front crossmember off to make room for the steering box rotate for better steering angles/clearance.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0429.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0429001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0429002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0429003.jpg

My last sawzall blade was fairly dull so it took FOREVER to cut that stupid tube off. I plan on using some 3/8" for a new crossmember when it's all done.

Then I used my sheer man-strength to rip the steering box mount clean off the frame:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0429004.jpg

:laugh:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0429005.jpg

Actually it was a 4.5" angle grinder but whatever;)

Depending on how far I rotate the box, I MAY need to mess w/ the steering shaft to extend it. I'm also thinking about finding a flat pitman arm so that I don't need to rotate it beyond that far. I THINK that would work.

I think I may have a flat pitman that fits YJ/TJ boxes. I believe its off a waggy.

Some updates:

Making the mounts for my steering box:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503001.jpg

Notch in frame rail for the lowest sleeve to go into:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503002.jpg

Steering shaft clearance:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503003.jpg

Box bolted in place(3rd sleeve not installed yet):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503006.jpg

Estimated drag link angle:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503009.jpg

I DO have the 3rd bolt sleeve in there now(drilled a hole in the frame) but need to take pics. Hopefully I'll finish it all up tonight to post pics later.


I also ordered about $500 worth of stuff from Ballistic last weekend and a bunch of DOM tubing for my track bar and suspension links.

Lowers will be 2.25" x 3/8" wall

Uppers will be 2.00" x 1/4" wall

Track bar will be 1.75" x 1/4" wall

Steering links will be 1.50" x 1/4" wall(Ballistic 7/8 heim steering kit w/ 3/4" high misalignment spacers).

I'll also be using 7/8" heims for my track bar joints.

And I'm going with the TJ coil/LCA/shock mount combo brackets from Ballistic, will be moving the coil bucket back on the mount(eliminating the shock portion of the mount) because for $50 it should be worth it to not cut stuff out myself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0505.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0505001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0505002.jpg

Still need to weld in the uppermost bolt sleeve, and I'll probably go over all the others once more and plate the two sleeves that are above and below the frame rail for some added strength.

You can get twin sticks on ebay for 60$...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-300-twin-stick-JEEP-CJ7-60-44-30-twinstick_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c 66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7 c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem255483f912QQitemZ160331725074QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Thanks for the link, but unfortunately the shifter tabs for the stock shifters are both cut off(stupid me did it a while back because I was pretty sure I was going to buy the AA twin sticks at the time).

If I find enough time I may try and build a crazy bracket and some shifters, but I may have some side-work lined up to make a little over a grand to pay for my driveline goodies.

So I got under my Jeep and estimating whereabout I can place my links, here is what I came up with. I'm still waiting on my brackets from Ballistic Fab, but it appears their coil spring/CA mount/shock mount bracket has the link mount roughly 1/2" below axle centerline so I'm hoping that is close.

The axle side of the LCAs will not be able to move much, if at all, and the axle side of the UCA will be pushing it, I think the most vertical separation I can get is maybe 8.5", probably more like 8".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Misc/03TJbasemap.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Misc/03TJbasemapFS.jpg


I played around with the numbers a bit to get my AS % lower, as 60% seems to be liked by a lot of the forum from what my searches told me. I am using all Ballistic joints(2.63 lowers, 3.00 upper joints), and am building the links pretty beefy(2.0" .25" wall upper, 2.25" .375" wall lowers) and according to the calculator my FS is still pretty high with 7" of vertical separation so I think I could get away with it. I am unsure if axle wrap would be an issue though, any input?

Also my mockup of tweaking the mounting locations a bit(and shortening the upper) pushes the instant center way behind the vehicle. I've read that this is probably a good thing in the rear, but what about a front application?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Misc/03TJmockup1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Misc/03TJmockup1FS.jpg

Still waiting on stuff from Ballistic Fab...

Here's the front crossmember I've been working on... still need to build an actual bumper in front of it as well for a little more rigidity/protection(used 1/4" angle steel for the main cross-brace... would have liked 3/8" but it was free so :flipoff2:)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0517007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0517008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0518.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0518002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0518001.jpg

My Ballistic Fab order is scheduled to be delivered Wednesday:smokin:

Wait is that my wife?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503004.jpg

At least thats the what I see from under my jeep, Get used to that look :flipoff2:

Its usely followed by "are you coming in any time soon" Or "Are you spending the night in here"


Nice looking build by the way,

I am interested to see how the front 3 link goes.

Subscribed....

Sweet build. Will there be frame tie ins for the rear bumper?

Wait is that my wife?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0503004.jpg

At least thats the what I see from under my jeep, Get used to that look :flipoff2:

Its usely followed by "are you coming in any time soon" Or "Are you spending the night in here"


Nice looking build by the way,

I am interested to see how the front 3 link goes.

Haha yeah but when we have a house and garage of our own she best not lay foot in the garage in any more than 35% if she wants me to come inside:flipoff2:

I got most of my stuff from Ballistic a couple days ago... the brackets are sweet and I'll hopefully get set up this weekend on the axle. I got nearly all the tube adapters(still need the LH adaptor for my upper control arm dammit). Have none of the steering components, but I did get the heims for my track bar. Stupid me forgot the misalignment spacers for the track bar heims though:shaking:

Subscribed....

Sweet build. Will there be frame tie ins for the rear bumper?

Yes but that's not high on my priority list for now... I'm getting some from Eddie/BESRK whenever I happen to wander into his shop again:p

Anyways... here was some progress made last night and today... I have Memorial Day off so hopefully I'll have some more to post tomorrow night.

Started taking apart the components on my D60 to clean/inspect and to set caster angle more accurately(need to take the knuckle entirely off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524002.jpg

35 spline D60 outter vs 27(?) spline D30 stock outter:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524003.jpg

Finished crossmember(though I may add more to it out of boredom at times)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524009.jpg

....

D300 clocked and installed... clearances might be tight...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524010.jpg

Wait yeah... definitely tight.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524011.jpg

Stock skidplate can be reused to save $$ for the time being.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524013.jpg


Still need to do the 1" MML and 1" BL so that should help everything out quite a bit. I'm entertaining the thought of lifting only one side of the motor or the other to physically swing the bellhousing to the driver's side. I found that Toyota guys did this for a while to clock their t-cases.

The shifters will be coming out right under the passengers feet from the looks of it so I think cable shifters will be the way to go.

Made some progress today, put the LCA/coil spring brackets in place and tacked them. They are these brackets from Ballistic Fabrication:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-bracket-coil-spring-shock-mount-combo_p_1461.html

I'm modifying them to get 3" or so stretch without screwing with the frame coil mounts.

Here is how they are "meant" to be used:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0525001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0525.jpg

I'll be eliminating the "shock mount" portion of it(mine will be mounted on the control arm) and doing this for the stretch:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0525003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0525002.jpg

Here's a look without the coil plate installed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0525004.jpg

...

Back to work:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0525005.jpg

:thumbsup:

Not pictured but I finished cutting the crap out of my rear fender wells finally so I won't be slicing tires open(hopefully!).

Looking good. Are you going to have to run a 2 piece front driveshaft?

I REALLY do not want to do that, so I'm going to experiment w/ lifting the motor mounts both 1", try lifting one side and not the other, etc to get more clearance.

With 1" MML that is awaiting install I've got 1" more clearance, which might be enough for my 4" uptravel.

I think that lifting the driver's side and not the passenger side that will pivot the bellhousing to the driver's side which will get that stupid bellhousing bolt out of the way, leaving room to grind the hell out of the bellhousing for more clearance.

I was also considering this: If I do my 1" BMML(JKS blocks), and it is still not enough, then once I have the 1.25" BL on, I -could- manage to do a MORE 1" MML on top of the JKS blocks for 2" MML which would definitely solve my clearance problems. Aside from redrilling the fan shroud I don't think I'll have too many issues.

Been piddlefarting around with the rear brakes Friday night and Saturday.

Got some new calipers and pads. They are for an 85 Chevy K20 and I had to grind down the nub on the caliper so it wouldn't interfere with the disc brake conversion brackets:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530001.jpg

Ran 3/16" hard lines. They are pre-flared w/ 3/8-24 nuts on them in 20" lengths from Advanced.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530003.jpg

Little longer than needed so some goofy bends were needed to get them where I want:flipoff2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530010.jpg

The short rubber hoses at the calipers are for the front of a 79 Chevy Chevette.

Here's how I'll be anchoring the hard line to the axle... I'm going to bend the washer at 90 degrees and weld it to the axle, then wrap the brake line in 3/16" fuel hose then hose clamped to the washer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530006.jpg

I'm using a 1987 Dodge D150 rear brake line. It splits into two 3/16" ports with a nice big hole in the middle for mounting.

I need to extend the line from the frame as it's a bit too short, the line at the frame is 1/4" w/ a 3/8-24 nut.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0530007.jpg

Here are my brake line brackets, my UCA/LCA brackets tacked together(still have a lot of bracing and boxing left to do, and the calculations I got based on where they will fit... The numbers are about as perfect as I can get it IMO

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0601000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0601001.jpg

Still need to do some hard mounts for the ends of the rubber hoses so there is no flexing of the hard lines at all.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0601002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0601003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0601004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0601005.jpg

The one w/ the upper control arm is for the driver's side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/03TJmockup5.jpg

I'm pretty comfortable with all the factors of safety too which is great:thumbsup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/03TJmockup5FS.jpg

Any comments on this?

Control arm brackets welded up... tomorrow I'm going to add bracing/boxing in preparation to be installed this weekend if all goes well:thumbsup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0603009.jpg

Only downside is they will be hanging about 4" below the frame, but being inboarded and plans to make it a smoothish transition to the frame/belly skid in the future should help negate that.

You already are getting 2" of forward axle stretch out of using those Ballistic coil mounts anyway... because they come CENTERED over the alxe... and stock Dana 30 coil mounts are 2" OFFSET FORWARD. So, what you've done with your mods to the coil brackets is giving you 5" of stretch total. Do you realize that? Will your coills still line up? I tried stretching mine 5", but the coils were funky with the axle pulled forward so far... so I ended up with 3.5-4" max.

You already are getting 2" of forward axle stretch out of using those Ballistic coil mounts anyway... because they come CENTERED over the alxe... and stock Dana 30 coil mounts are 2" OFFSET FORWARD. So, what you've done with your mods to the coil brackets is giving you 5" of stretch total. Do you realize that? Will your coills still line up? I tried stretching mine 5", but the coils were funky with the axle pulled forward so far... so I ended up with 3.5-4" max.

Never thought of that... I guess I was thinking they were centered over the axle stock.. I'll remeasure tonight. I didn't think to look at my HP30 axle sitting out back to check. Thanks for the heads up! I think I'll end up around 4-4.5" as I may move it back a bit for radiator clearance.

Brackets more or less done... Need to drill an access hole in either the tub or the bottom of the driver's side bracket so I can get a bolt in the hole... small design flaw I overlooked:laughing:

Do these appear to be strong enough? I added all the extra crap since they will be inset a bit and be trying to twist right off the frame rail.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606012.jpg

AHHH...





AHHHHHH....




AHHH CHOOOOOOO! :flipoff2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0606009.jpg

Yay flux core:homer:

1.25" BL installed, 3-link brackets tacked to frame, high tech plastic suspension link mocked in place:homer: and not pictured but I also drilled my pitman arm out to 5/8" for a heim. The body lift makes the Jeep look stupid tall, definitely need some wheel spacers in the future to make it more proportional to it's height. On the plus side w/ the BL I can install a bolt in my UCA mount, there is a ton more radiator clearance, and there should be enough room for my D300 to be reinstalled.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0607010.jpg

I decided it -might- be a better idea to build my links out of DOM rather than PVC:laugh:

No links welded permanantly yet, I think I'll tack them together tomorrow and do the final welding of the axle brackets, possibly frame brackets too. Tomorrow may be a late night at work but I hope not:(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609000.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0609007.jpg





Not too many replies lately... does that mean I haven't done anything completely stupid yet? :laughing:

--snip--

Not too many replies lately... does that mean I haven't done anything completely stupid yet? :laughing:

We are just enjoying the build. :smokin:

:smokin:
That thing has quite the presence :D

Don't worry, we are all here keeping an eye on you.:p

Any more pics of welds? :flipoff2:

can i see one more pic of one of your welds :flipoff2:

mabee if we ask nice?

I'm still here....I'm ready for you to start linking up the front already!

What leafs are you running in the back? How much stretch were you able to get out of the back?

Sweet build, subscribed :smokin:

Ian just built sone PVC links on extreme this weekend. Bet he stole the idea from you :flipoff2:.

Why all the washer on the front upper frame side?

Adjustable anti-dive:) It's adjustable from like 68-85% IIRC.

And Austin... I think you're right... I should have patented it:p

Here's some pics from the last few days. Got the drag link cut to length and fully welded now(only tacked in the pic), got my Branik Motorsports high steer arm installed. They are super awesome to deal with, I ordered Wednesday and got it at my door Friday:thumbsup: I also got a damn good deal on shipping and a big Pirate 4x4 discount I think.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06210005.jpg

They're 7/8" rod ends for steering with misalignment spacers... 3/4" at the knuckle and 5/8" through the pitman arm. Will be 3/4" bolts through the steering knuckles for the tie-rod when I get around to building it.

Pics from the last couple days... I got nearly all the final welding done... unfortunately I ran out of wire at about 4:45... my welding supply store closed today at 5:00 so I was SOL. Just have the frame side LCA/UCA brackets and run another bead on the LCA links:D

Here are the pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280010.jpg

Those are the pics I took yesterday and meant to post up....

Nice work man. Looks like everything is going together nicely. I can't wait to throw my 1 tons under mine now. Keep it up.

And here is what I got done today before I ran out of welding wire:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280013.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280015.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280016.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280019.jpg


....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280020.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280022.jpg

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Tomorrow I am off work at 12:00 so me and Shaynea can get our marriage license so as soon as that's done I'm going to finish welding and start painting stuff:smokin:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06280028.jpg


:grinpimp:






sorry, had too.

seriously, your lady is cool. I can't even get mine to look at my project much less be involved.:shaking:

You might want to look into a XJ exhaust manifold. It comes together much sooner and allows you to bring you exhaust straight back

Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check into that.. but I'm thinking just MAYBE I'll be able to sneak the exhaust up the passenger side above the driveshaft, I've gotta wait til everything is back together...


I primered the front axle and everything bare on the front 1/2 of the frame so it's on it's way to sitting on it's own weight for good :)

Yay pretty colors!:D

Rustoleum semi-gloss black on the frame and whatnot, the axles are Rustoleum hammered silver.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06300007.jpg

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Started dropping the rear diff, left the garage looking like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_06300001.jpg

This was from last night, I got home late and didn't get a chance to post up then:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07010001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07010002.jpg

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Whenever I get around to building diff covers, I think I will paint those either black or a charcoal grey.

Will be capping the bumper ends tonight, welding another pass on my lower link adapters, and I have a friend from work coming over to help paint stuff while I'm doing that:thumbsup:

so far kick ass build.

I'm guessing the front spring cups were ok seein as you burned them in?

Yeah I had the spring pads tacked in place when I mocked up the front end w/ weight on it and it was good. The Ballistic spring mounts/clamps actually allow for some decent adjustment/offset, probably 3/4" off-center all around the pad. They are actually angled a bit since it's a flat mount and the spring has an end coil the whole thing wants to tilt a bit so it actually worked out in my favor.

Pics from today... had a couple friends/coworkers come over and help w/ paint while I was finishing welding up another pass on the control arms.

Only thing left to paint is the bumper as soon as I cap it. Then mount tires and reassemble.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07020001.jpg

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07020009.jpg

Heath overseeing the whole operation:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07020007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07020008.jpg

My helpers Jay and Heath:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07020010.jpg

AHHH...
AHHHHHH....
AHHH CHOOOOOOO! :flipoff2:


Bust all that scale off the metal before you weld and try again. :p

:grinpimp:

Very nice work, i´m cheking it from mexico, since you started it, keep going doing it well......:D

Bust all that scale off the metal before you weld and try again. :p

But then it will be .2479999999" steel, not .25" :flipoff2: It's the only front crossmember I've got for now so it needs all the strength it can get:flipoff2:

:grinpimp:

Very nice work, i´m cheking it from mexico, since you started it, keep going doing it well......:D

Thanks dude, just trying to get the damn thing done... about 22 days to go:p

Not a whole lot of exciting stuff today, my friend Cooper came over to help me mount a beadlock wheel while I capped the rear bumper. Unfortunately that was all that got done, still have one wheel left tomorrow and gotta get more paint... Wally World was out of the semi-gloss black and I've only got one can left:rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07030001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07030003.jpg

I reckon I'll find paint tomorrow, paint it and start reassembling the front end then get the rear either later in the day or Sunday.

Got the final tire mounted on the rim today, finished sculpting the ends of the bumper to smooth them out, then painted it along with the link ends which I forgot to do yesterday.

I ran around looking for some grade 8 bolts for my front suspension so I could assemble everything without needing to take it apart again to replace crap ungraded bolts I got for mockup... but I couldn't find any of the 3/4" bolts I needed... Lowes has a good selection of grade 8 stuff but only up to 5/8" and Fastenal is closed for the weekend.

If I don't find somewhere online/local tonight I'll just put the doodoo bolts in to get it out of the garage 'til I find what I need.

Tomorrow I think everything will be dry enough for full assembly:2thumbsup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07040001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07040002.jpg

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Note: the brown Krylon primer is awesome... I ran out and all I could find was the grey kind, that stuff absolutely sucks, it gets stupid bumpy and has lots of stringy shits that I had to pick off before the top coat.

Really nice looking build
since goint to all the trouble why not do a full hydro steering setup? just wondering

Cost, I simply don't have the cash right now, and also this will be daily driven.

VA state inspection doesn't say anything about full hydro not being legal, but I read some posts on Pirate and saw a couple accounts of "I turned the wheel left but the rig kept going straight and I hit ____" so I want a mechanical link. Virginia Beach is a pretty populated area... lots of stupid motherfuckers that would sue me if something happened because of that.

Maybe one day I will, I plan on doing hydro assist... though I may do it after the wedding as time/money are running out fast with 20 days to the wedding.

I don't want to fuck up my box with a failed attempt at tapping it before the wedding only to not be able to drive it then. I'm hoping my ZF box will hold up to a couple hundred street driven miles before I get around to tapping it. Or just buy a PSC box.

understandable I know whatcha mean about when the cash runs out on a build. I am just now doing full hydro on mine and if you really look you can piece together a set similar to those howe and psc sells for much less. Good luck on the build and the wedding.
Btw I used to live in Fredricksburg VA and have been down to VA beach so I know what you are talking about the crazy bastards.

understandable I know whatcha mean about when the cash runs out on a build. I am just now doing full hydro on mine and if you really look you can piece together a set similar to those howe and psc sells for much less. Good luck on the build and the wedding.
Btw I used to live in Fredricksburg VA and have been down to VA beach so I know what you are talking about the crazy bastards.

Yeah... but on the bright side IT'S ON IT'S OWN WEIGHT!!!

:D

I reckon this feels the same as when your first kid is born(when you want a kid... not an oops baby or dumpster baby). :laughing:

Anyways... sitting on it's own weight:D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07050012.jpg

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Man that looks awesome. Good job. What coils are you running in the front? Did you figure out how much you stretched the front and the rear? Overall wheelbase?

Oh and btw your caster looks a little negative to me....judging from the pictures that is.

Oh and btw your caster looks a little negative to me....judging from the pictures that is.

X2 It looks like your pinion is pointing at the ground.

Nice :smokin:

Glad to see it on the ground. Looks like some dialing in and your on your way.
So what did you end up at as far as wheel base or will it still change when you do your link adjustments?

Thanks for the kind words guys... here goes:


Caster - yes it's WAY negative... I basically just bolted the links in, threw the wheels on and looked at it for a good 20 minutes. I'll be setting it to 7 degrees tomorrow. I still need to install the drag link as well, I just painted the high steer arm(Branik Motorsports... awesome quality) so didn't want to bolt it up just yet.

Coils are my Full Traction 3" lift coils that I have had since November of 2007. When I had a normal Jeep it netted closer to 3.75" of actual lift.

Wheelbase is around 109, but is subject to change. I'm going to have the front pushed as far forward as possible at 7 degrees of caster without the trackbar hitting the drag-link when installed, so whatever that becomes is what it will be. I can adjust the rear + or - 1.0" since the perches and u-bolt plates have 3 holes 1" from each other.



I'll try to figure out how much stretch is front vs rear once the links are adjusted into place. I'm guessing I have 3-4in in front and the rest is in the back.

sweet, you need to fork it now!

Looks good. Paint those inner fenders gloss black and it will clean it up even more. ;) How is that rear bumpers tied into the frame? Since your leaf springs are attached to it, most people weld the bumper to the frame for the support it needs since there will be alot of weight on the bolts (if bolted to the frame).

I'll be buying a frame-tie in kit from BESRK next time I see Eddie in person. I will be painting the inner fenders once some other stuff is taken care of.

Haven't seen mention of it yet, but wheres the traction bar to control axle wrap? If I'm correct you need one when going springover?

Those tires are sick dude. Definitely the next set of tires I'll be buying. X2 on the traction bar. You'll need to add one for sure if you haven't yet. Let's see some flex pics already.

what frame side coil mounts did you use on the front and can you snap a few pics of them?

They're the stock TJ coil mounts on the frame. Didn't touch a thing there.


Anyways...

Wasn't able to post pics last night as my camera wasn't communicating with the computer, but here they are... The Jeep finally sees the light of day!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07060002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07060003.jpg

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07060010.jpg

Next to my dad's 1/2 ton work van:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07060012.jpg

I rolled it out, blew off all the metal dust and touched up the paint on the edges when I cut the fenders/tub. Tonight I'm going back to actually wash it to get everything off and poke my head around to see how I'll take care of the e-brake.

Yesterday I ordered a rear driveshaft from High Angle Driveline(1350 series CV w/ flange and a 1410 joint at the pinion w/ a new yoke) along with a t-case parking brake so I can be state inspection legal.

Too many pages for me to read...... but that front pinion angle looks low.

yea second on the pinion angle i have pretty much the same axle as you and i am setting my pinion quite a bit higher. maybe its just the camera angles. also i was curious how much did you move your coil buckets(axle side) back? i have the same brackets from ballistic and i wanna see how much stretch it'll give me even though i'm using the shock towers and you chopped yours off. btw looks good.

EDIT: also looking at the thing its pretty damn long might be time for a tummy tuck (sorry if you mentioned that anywhere in the thread and i missed it)

Too many pages for me to read...... but that front pinion angle looks low.

yea second on the pinion angle i have pretty much the same axle as you and i am setting my pinion quite a bit higher. maybe its just the camera angles.

Seriously guys, try reading instead of just looking at all of the pretty pictures... it's been covered.:flipoff2:

Looks like you got at least 3-5'' of stretch out of the front. Tons of room between the front inner fender and the front tire.

Outstanding build brother! I am really enjoying this! Lookin great!
Scott

Thanks for the comments guys, but some of you fawks need to learn how to read:flipoff2:


Washed it when I got off work tonight to get all the metal shavings and crap off:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07070002.jpg

Ran into a big snag tonight too... I have nowhere near enough steering from the stock pitman arm. I have no room for the Waggy arm to fit and the trackbar bracket is in the way of letting me use the closer hole in the high steer arm unless I run a crazy bent drag link.:shaking:

Full left:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07070004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07070003.jpg

Full right:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07070005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07070006.jpg

As long as I only take big sweeping turns I'll be okay:shaking:

I'm pretty sure it won't be done in time for the wedding now. Big f-ing disappointment but I don't want to half ass stuff to get it going. I suppose I'll have to go full hydro to have less than a 40ft turning radius.

yep, full hydro is the way to go man. a lot less headache.

Seriously guys, try reading instead of just looking at all of the pretty pictures... it's been covered.:flipoff2:

Thanks for the comments guys, but some of you fawks need to learn how to read:flipoff2:


hey guys don't get mad everyone knows a picture is worth a thousands words so why read?:flipoff2:

yep, full hydro is the way to go man. a lot less headache.

Yeah I'm leaning towards single ended full hydro if anything so there is still a physical tie-rod between both wheels and also cheaper and more simplicity. And ease of mounting.


Big downside is for VA State inspection the air bag can't be tampered w/ or anything. I don't see full hydro working w/ the stock steering wheel as the clock spring will eventually destroy itself from overturning one direction or the other.

hey guys don't get mad everyone knows a picture is worth a thousands words so why read?:flipoff2:

Picture books don't count as reading fool, you would know this if you got out of kindergarden:flipoff2:

:p

What are the plans for shock mounts? Gonna outboard them on the rear? Rear traction bar, seein as you've already painted everything?

Still impressed with the fab skills, and your ability to talk the fiance into letting you dump money into the jeep not the wedding.

I thought for sure you would have enough throw in the waggy pitman arm...wtf!? How are others getting away with it?

Anyways....I think you'd be MUCH happier with full hydro. How would the clock spring going bad have anything to do with the aig bag?

What are the plans for shock mounts? Gonna outboard them on the rear? Rear traction bar, seein as you've already painted everything?

Still impressed with the fab skills, and your ability to talk the fiance into letting you dump money into the jeep not the wedding.

I think I can get away with outboarding the shock mounts in the rear. Paint can easily be ground off when it's ready to get more stuff welded on. I just wanted to roll it out of the garage for now.

Yeah she won't be putting up with another build for a long time :laughing:

I thought for sure you would have enough throw in the waggy pitman arm...wtf!? How are others getting away with it?

Anyways....I think you'd be MUCH happier with full hydro. How would the clock spring going bad have anything to do with the aig bag?

Ended up not using the Waggy arm... it was way too damn long to even fit up front. I'd be extending the whole front end another 2-3" just to make the thing fit.

Clock spring = electrical connection to the airbag itself. Broken clockspring = no air bag and no horn. Horn is easy to fix but the airbag is needed for state inspection... however I did find this neat tidbit:

C. Air bag and air bag readiness light.

Inspect for and reject if:

1. Air bag. Any defects in the air bag system are noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated;

2. The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated);

3. Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or

4. If the air bag indicator fails to light or stays on continuously.

NOTE: Air bag readiness light. Turn the ignition key to the on position; the air bag readiness light will indicate normal operation by lighting for six to eight seconds, then turning off. A system malfunction is indicated by the flashing or continuous illumination of the readiness light or failure of the light to turn on.

Statutory Authority

§ 46.2-1165 of the Code of Virginia.



I'm going to ask the trooper if I get a sticker that says "air bag has been deactivated to avoid unwanted deployment when offroad" if it would fly :smokin:

On the good side today I jacked the front end off the ground and found the L/F wheel bearings have a shit load of play in them. I couldn't shake it when the axle was bare but with the wheel it's a good amount. That combined with the steering draglink not adjusted perfectly centered made it appear it couldn't turn wortha damn in both directions. It might be okay, but I need to get some wheel bearings ASAP.

Hmm that is a shitty law right there. Thank god none of that shit applies here in Oklahoma. I'm about to install my 13'' poly wheel with weld on quick disco which completely gets rid of the clock spring all together. I'll just have to make sure I can turn my turn signals off when I use them.

Here's an idea...remove clock spring after you have it inspected! Then when you need to have it inspected just reinstall the clock spring...

Great build here though. I plan to do a lot of the following mods you have done. I'm linking the rear though.

Thanks! I'll probably opt for a 1" MM lift and clock my D300 as needed. Clocking is DEFINITELY needed, the t-case bolts up but the large end is literally hanging down at about the 4 to 5 o'clock position:eek: I think a clocking ring, AA twin sticks, and a rear output will go in initially to get it rolling. I'll add the front output and 4:1 gears when I find the time and money.

If worse comes to worse, a very narrow driveshaft w/ kinda thick wall tubing will be the way I go, I'd like to avoid a 2 pc driveshaft but if it's gotta happen then it's gotta happen.

Here are some pics from the last week up to tonight(I think they're in chronological order):



My brother and I are working on putting a 4.0 in his cj-5 with aw4 automatic. We got the Novak Adapters clocking ring for his d300 and it seems to be really good quality, comes with extended seal too. The jeep isn't done yet so I couldn't tell how it's going to do on the trail. As far as the exhaust, why not re-route it on the drivers side.. that's what we're doing... if we run it out the back. Good luck with the build!

edit: I also got the 4wd Hardware twin-stick and boot for my cj-7, also.. really really nice! Looks good and shifts pretty decent too! We're going cable in the 5 since we plan to compete for fun in it. :)

Badass build up. You figure out the Wheel base measurement yet? I wanted to do something like this with my CJ-5 but we have terrible laws in CA about tire size and so on for street driven junk.

Badass build up. You figure out the Wheel base measurement yet? I wanted to do something like this with my CJ-5 but we have terrible laws in CA about tire size and so on for street driven junk.

Thanks man!

Yeah it's about 109" now, the front has room to move another 1/2" forward and the rear spring perches can be moved one hole backwards for another 1" so it's adjustable from about 108 to 111.5" or so.




Anyways I replaced the other wheel bearings today on the right side so the front end is good now. I built a tie-rod so the front wasn't toed in ridiculously, and yeah.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07100002.jpg

Adjusted the steering and it appears it will at least be drivable with this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07100003.jpg

Definitely want to go full hydro eventually though.

Didn't post yesterday but basically the LH heim only went in halfway then siezed when I tried to thread it in:mad3: I even let the tie-rod cool overnight before I did anything. It's in far enough to not worry about thread engagement, but the other end can't physically thread in far enough to make the tie rod the right overall length. So I cut out 1/2" from the tie rod and sleeved it with the 3/8" wall 2.25" od DOM leftover from the LCAs.

Didn't have pics of all that fun because I had limited wrenching time since I went to the Def Leppard/Poison/Cheap Trick concert which was awesome:smokin:

And here are some updated pics...

My ghetto sleeved tie-rod:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120002.jpg

The bastard heim that siezed(I welded the jam-nut on to make sure it really won't move now that it's permanant anyways):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120003.jpg

And worked on the front shock mounts and have them welded and painted:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120004.jpg

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120007.jpg

Here is the angle from the front:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07120008.jpg

The upper shock bushings aren't completely straight on like they should be when on stock style suspension, but I'm not too concerned as I'll be likely doing Ford F150 shock towers with some good shocks after the wedding.

As-is the FT 3" shocks only have like 4-5in downtravel, and about 5-6in uptravel. My suspension can only go about 3.5-4" uptravel safely(trackbar hits frame on passenger side). I want to get some 13-14in travel shocks later this summer.

Ordering some shocks for the rear tonight, going to go with the Poly Performance BBCS assuming they can get them to me quickly.

Without the shocks on the body can be rocked quite crazily back and forth with some effort, the shocks help a ton so I think there will be no need for sway bars, at least not immediately.

13 Days to the wedding

Ran into a big snag tonight too... I have nowhere near enough steering from the stock pitman arm. I have no room for the Waggy arm to fit and the trackbar bracket is in the way of letting me use the closer hole in the high steer arm unless I run a crazy bent drag link.:shaking:


You can get a custom one made, I don't remember who makes em. Or how much they are, but it might be in order. Like someone else suggested you could cut and mate your current one and a waggy.... I've always wondered if that would be strong enough, but I've seen a bunch of people do it. :confused:

Now that everything is tight and my tie rod is the right length it looks like it will all be okay.

My overall steering is still limited by the box/pitman arm length, but my tires are about 1in to 1.5in max from hitting the LCAs at full turn.

kickin a**. Get it all figured out so I know what not to do on my heep.

For fun here's my Jeep next to a stocker on 30" GS-As:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07140001.jpg

Clearance lights to stay legal in VA:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07140002.jpg

My 13" travel BBCS shocks showed up today. Thanks Poly Performance for the awesome service and speedy delivery:smokin:

Gotta finish up installing and wiring turn signals and the other clearance lights, mount the rear shocks(started building the Ruffstuff dog-legged brackets or whatever they are), and still waiting on my HAD driveshaft and t-case brake and yokes. Hopefully they get here tomorrow or Friday so I can have this thing driving by the end of the weekend. I got half-days off Friday and Monday so that should help. I'd like to drive it to the exhaust shop Monday or Tuesday.

JK turn signals. Used a 3-1/4" hole saw and they are a nice tight press fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160014.jpg

Parking lights on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160002.jpg

Caught a pic of the turn signal on:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160003.jpg

Here's a closer pic of the stupid clearance lights needed in VA. Kinda ugly but better than big dumb flares:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160012.jpg

Wiring, I tried keeping it pretty clean w/ the wire loom and all that to at least look factory:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160006.jpg

Also got the other axle shock mounts ready to install on the axle:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07160013.jpg

Sweet use of washers to space the piece out for the shock to fit in perfectly.:smokin:

Awesome build so far...
I thought the tires couldnt stick out 4" past the flare (or amber marker light) in this state.
Also, does the airbag throw a cel if it's non-op? If not, you should be able to disconnect it and pull the bulb behind the dash.

Awesome build so far...
I thought the tires couldnt stick out 4" past the flare (or amber marker light) in this state.
Also, does the airbag throw a cel if it's non-op? If not, you should be able to disconnect it and pull the bulb behind the dash.

If they stick out more than 4", THEN you need clearance lights, amber front and red rear.

If the airbag is disconnected it will throw the airbag light. If you pull the bulb it will fail inspection if it's caught. It should light up for a few seconds when you start the vehicle then go out. It's part of the self-diagnostic process when you start the vehicle.

Here you go:

19VAC30-70-180. Clearance lamps and reflectors.

Inspect for and reject if:

1. Any motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer or other vehicle is not equipped with clearance lamps if the vehicle is over seven feet wide or if any portion extends four inches or more outside the front fender line.




Here's a link to all the VA state inspection requirements:

http://leg1.state.va.us/000/reg/TOC19030.HTM

If they stick out more than 4", THEN you need clearance lights, amber front and red rear.


Yes, this is true for inspection, but any VA LEO will automatically give you a ticket for anything over 4.5" from the edge of the tire to the marker light. Then they will give you bumper height ticket too...most likely a mud flap ticket to boot also. The fix it tickets add up especially when they have a 50 dollar processing fee a piece.

No raining on your parade, but I lived in at the beach for some time and gave them plenty of money in tickets. Actually VA in general is bad. Doesn't matter that you pass inspection the cop will still pick it apart with tickets. Your heep now screams look at me, and that they will:flipoff2:

Dammit.


Well we'll see what happens.

Got home really late last night and just passed out, I was working from about 2:00 up to about midnight.

I got my transfer case set up w/ the HD output, my driveshaft and e-brake kit arrived, and the output fought me every bit of the way.

First off here's the bling that the brown santa dropped off:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170001.jpg

Advance Adapters says in their instruction that the inner rear output bearing is a tough one to remove... they're not lying. I had no bearing puller available and the output shaft was being replaced anyways so it didn't matter if I marred it up. I cut the bearing off w/ a die-grinder and then split it with my air chisel:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170002.jpg

It took a while to get to that point. I originally ran to the parts store to get a big 3 jaw puller, the only thing near big enough was a 6" 2 jaw puller so I got it anyways. In a nutshell it didn't work, the teeth on it didn't grab crap so that's why I just cut it off.

Here's the aftermath:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170003.jpg

Now for a little story/rant:

I continued with the install and as soon as I went to install the new output shaft, it wouldn't fit. I was freaking livid. A week before the wedding and I get yet ANOTHER poorly machined piece of crap from AA. The gear that goes through the slider hub(I think that's what it's called) which is shifted forward and backward on the output shaft to change between high and low and neutral was too freaking big. The gears are all a bit too fat with not enough taper to fit smoothly through the rear output shift fork gear. If it didn't slide fore and aft through the gear then it would be fine, but this means there would be no shifting my rear output when I get shifters.

I need the damn thing running NOW so I said to hell with it and just ground down each of the gears w/ my 4.5" angle grinder w/ a 60 grit flap disc. It doesn't shift smoothly but I'll at least be able to get it out when I change it for one that AA didn't f- up.

Didn't get any pics as I was too busy throwing stuff and yelling.:rantscream:

Needless to say aside from shifters I don't think I'll be buying from them again, I think I'll end up buying a Stak D300 when I want 4:1 and an upgraded front output and a stronger case.

Got everything assembled and hopefully sealed so it doesn't leak. D300s are notorious for leaking.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170005.jpg

Here's some closer pics of the awesome stuff I got from High Angle Driveline...

1410 pinion yoke compared to a stock style 1310 yoke:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170010.jpg

1350 CV at the other end of the driveshaft, you can also see the t-case brake:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170009.jpg

And the mechanical caliper and mount which I have to rig up for state inspection:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07170007.jpg

I also picked up some front brake calipers from the parts store so I've got that squared away, just not installed yet.

Went through more BS yesterday as everything fought me every part of the way.

Got the t-case brake installed... Awesome piece but the 3 mounting bolts provided were useless... the longest one was about 1/2" too short, there was no thread engagement so I had to get a new one, and the other 2 bolts were normal hex head bolts... no way in hell can you fit a 9/16" socket on them as close as they are to the HD output case. I had to go get some allen head bolts to replace those(like what would normally be installed if there was no t-case brake.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180001.jpg

Front t-case clearance:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180003.jpg

Then I went to take the pinion nut off... nobody had the 1-7/16" socket in a 1/2" drive. I ended up just getting a 3/4" drive 1-3/8" socket from Napa... but I have no 3/4" drive ratchet or impact or anything. So I turned it into a 1/2" drive:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180010.jpg

Then upon pulling the pinion nut off I find it has the threads that self-destruct when removed... not meant to be reinstalled. So I had to clean all the threads and file everything down and reuse it. Going to a dealer to get a new nut soon hopefully.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180007.jpg

I think the PO had a driveshaft or something break because there was a big dent in the end of the pinion. Had to clean that up too:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180008.jpg

Finally got the yoke on, started tightening it...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180005.jpg

And then I find that the yoke siezed when any real torque is put on it... the thing uses shims for preload, not a crush sleeve so this should not be the case. I posted about it and apparently it is semi-normal as I've only dealt w/ crush sleeve axles before. I tore the rear cover off to check everything though... everything in good shape at least:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180012.jpg

Set the pinion angle last night before I left at 12:00, ready to weld perches when I get back there today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07180013.jpg

No pics cause I forgot the camera, but went through more BS today. The day started out terrible because I pulled up and the L/R rotor hub seal was pissing fluid onto my wheel:rolleyes: So I dropped the one side of the rear axle down so I could weld the leaf spring perch to the axle tube then went to the parts store to get a seal.

I found out that even though it uses a 77 Chevy K20 front rotor(disc conversion) it takes a different hub seal. The D70HD apparently uses a bigger spindle than the D60/D70/GM 14B rear axles, the K20 seal is about 1/8" too small on the ID.

In a nutshell I was trying different seals from different year vehicles for about 5 hours and searching online for different possible part numbers with no luck. I ended up taking the original seal to the back of the store and just searching through their stock. I lucked out and found one that is correct(part number on the box at home) and finally got that taken care of.

I then bolted up the leaf spring to the driver's side the dropped the passenger side and welded it up.

While that was cooling I put the brake calipers on the front and was going to do the lines but they are just too short(95 Chevy 2wd front lines). Gotta try something else tomorrow:thumbdown:

I filled the rear diff with fluid and proceeded to bolt the rear axle back up to the leafs. I have the Jeep sitting with axles on jackstands front and rear with tires off.

I decided to start it up and put it in gear to see the rear wheels spin. Stupid idea. After about 5 seconds of idling I heard and aweful gear on gear racket... then realized theres no fluid in the t-case. So shut it off and called it a night. I'm pretty sure it will be fine, going to drop the skid tomorrow so I can get to the fill hole and fill it up.

Also I secured the rear brake line at the chassis with a ghetto washer and zip ties method so the metal line doesn't flex around at all.


I'm sick of this damn project. I'll be very surprised if it is done for the wedding.

They make a lower profile LED clearance light. We use them on our Ambulances. I could get a part# if you'd like.

I've seen some at a few parts stores around here.

But right now those lights are the least of my problems. I think I'll be able to test drive it down the street by the end of the week, but the e-brake thing will be a pain to make work... I don't see me getting it state inspection ready between that and needing an exhaust system built in time.

I'm sick of this damn project.

Trust me brother, we've all hit that point in a build. It will get better and the first time you actually drive it, it will all be worth it. Keep the faith :grinpimp:

Yeah, I'm eating lunch now then going to run around looking for some decent brake hoses for the front, some long ass Dodge hoses or maybe some stainless ones if I can find them locally.

I'll be changing the name to "Project I can't believe that Heep wasn't done before the wedding!" next week:laughing:


She's okay with it, I'm more disappointed than anything but it's not the most important thing in the world.

I'll be changing the name to "Project I can't believe that Heep wasn't done before the wedding!" next week :laughing:

Mine started off being called the "Don't tell my wife how much it costs TJ build", but was later renamed "The Homewrecker". Luckily I'm still married and she drove it for the first time last weekend and is hooked on front digs :D

Here are the pics from the axle hub seal and spring pad dilemma yesterday:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200003.jpg

Posting this for my own purpose as I'll need the # handy when the other side goes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200004.jpg

Unlike all the other hub seals I've seen on Chevy stuff(like my fronts), these have a flange:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200011.jpg

Welded perches:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200002.jpg

And painted:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200013.jpg

....

And today I had a half-day off work because I was HOPING I would be driving to the exhaust shop today but that's not going to happen.

I'm going to stop beating myself to get the thing done for the wedding because there are more important things to worry about... I'm getting married Saturday:2thumbsup:

It's raining here so I couldn't really do any welding or anything so I just ran around getting and returning parts... I got back about $140 in core returns and returning brake hoses that I ended up not using:laugh:

Here is what I came up with:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200009.jpg

They are brake hoses for the right side of a 97 Ram 1500 4wd IIRC. The left side is goofy and has 1 in/2 out fittings on the end so I want to avoid it for now.

These things are stupid long.. like 39" IIRC:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200005.jpg

The caliper end uses a 10mm banjo bolt, just like the 3/4 ton Chevy calipers. It came with some banjo bolts but they are the wrong thread pitch. You need M10-1.5 banjo bolts(in the HELP section at the parts store). The end also fits perfect inside the caliper itself, no grinding of edges or anything.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200006.jpg

The other end is set up for stock TJ size line and fitting... 3/16 double inverted flare w/ a 3/8-24 female hole for the hard line to screw into. This is where the left side hose is funky.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200007.jpg

Only sort of downside is the crazy bracket that forces a bend, I think I will be cutting off part and rewelding it in a different orientation to keep the hose off my shocks and tires.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200008.jpg

As it started to rain, here is how the Jeep sits:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07200010.jpg

Did you shave/grind your rear axle at all? Also, which tires did you go with and how much clearance do you have from the bottom of the rear diff to the ground?

I'm about to put a D70HD and D60 in my rig...

It's not shaved at all for the time being.

Tires and wheels are off the Jeep as I'll be bleeding the brakes tomorrow, once they are back on I'll take a measurement for you:smokin:

Anyways got the front brake lines connected and routed and brackets modified and mounted.

I just welded some 30mm long M8 bolts to the control arms w/ nuts at the end used to secure the hose bracket through it's existing hole. On the right side I had to cut a piece of the bracket off and re-weld it in a different orientation to make it usable(remember... both of my front brake hoses are actually right side brake hoses for a Dodge Ram). The left side only needed some bendage and it was good to go. Due to the differences on each side, I needed to use my brake line drop bracket on the left side(but not the right) to get the hard line to line up and also move it slightly down.

Right side:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07210001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07210002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07210004.jpg

Left side:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07210005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07210006.jpg

What's awesome is these hoses were something like $20 each:smokin:

what carrier are you running in the rear?
is it open or some kind of locker?
I have the same thing for my dana 70 that I have to return. The one in the pic is a 2 piece carrier but what spline count?

what carrier are you running in the rear?
is it open or some kind of locker?
I have the same thing for my dana 70 that I have to return. The one in the pic is a 2 piece carrier but what spline count?

I was told it's a Detroit in the D70HD(also in the 60 front).

I have 35 spline shafts in it.

Also I have 5.86 gears... even better than the 5.13 I thought I had gotten:D

I will probably follow this build pretty closely when it comes time for mine to go in the garage.

Do you plan on upgrading the master cylinder?

i'd rethink how you mounted those brake lines to the control arms. i know when i start dragging mine across alot of stuff, no matter how tight i put the jam nuts, mine still come loose and ocassionally the arm will spin (unless you are running lefts or rights on both ends of course). hate to see you get a brake line ripped off out on the trail, but your lower arms are going to take a beating.

Stupid Question and you may have covered it,

But what color silver are you using on the axles?

I will probably follow this build pretty closely when it comes time for mine to go in the garage.

Do you plan on upgrading the master cylinder?

Not sure... going to go bleed the brakes tonight and I'll see how it feels.

i'd rethink how you mounted those brake lines to the control arms. i know when i start dragging mine across alot of stuff, no matter how tight i put the jam nuts, mine still come loose and ocassionally the arm will spin (unless you are running lefts or rights on both ends of course). hate to see you get a brake line ripped off out on the trail, but your lower arms are going to take a beating.

Good point, I think I will tack my jam nuts to the links once everything is ready to go. Thanks for pointing that out! I like the easy adjustment of them, however after the initial setting up of the links I should be fine.

Stupid Question and you may have covered it,

But what color silver are you using on the axles?

Rustoleum hammered silver.

I can't wait to see some pic's of this thing in action.

Well I got the brakes bled last night, pedal doesn't feel great so I'll definitely be getting a bigger master cylinder(Dodge Ram probably) to get the pedal back, it does stop though.

I drove it down the street and back which was kinda cool. Unfortunately the transmission shifts horribly into every gear(gotta force everything) and reverse is no usable... I believe that is from the motor mount lift... doesn't stay in gear, the shifter is hitting the tub or the center console I think.

No more updates for the weekend as family is coming for the wedding and I'll be busy. See you bitches Tuesday:flipoff2:

Have you pulled the rubber ring from the prop valve? Might give you a little better pedal until you get another MC.

Have you pulled the rubber ring from the prop valve? Might give you a little better pedal until you get another MC.

I had 4 wheel discs originally, I don't think this trick applies?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_07210001.jpg



Have you cycled your suspension to make sure those lines don't stretch? Looks like they are pretty short.

I had 4 wheel discs originally, I don't think this trick applies?

Correct,

I assumed it wasn't

Yeah it sounds like you have some shifting clearance problems. That's interesting though. I haven't heard of anyone really having that problem so I would be interested to see what the problem is. You still don't have a front driveshaft do you?

I did the bl/mml on my tj. The only "shifting" problem I've had is catching second in 4 low. I'd start simple checking linkages, then work my way into more complex things.

Have you cycled the suspension yet to check binding and axle wrap before you drove it?

Have you cycled your suspension to make sure those lines don't stretch? Looks like they are pretty short.

Cycled no... the hoses are semi temporary until I have some time to do something that works... They do clear w/ wheels turned both ways and rocking the Jeep. Also for now the front shocks are a bit short for wheeling so they won't be an issue yet. Since I've got no "real" time limit/goal now I think I will switch to the single hose to a T on the axle soonish.

Yeah it sounds like you have some shifting clearance problems. That's interesting though. I haven't heard of anyone really having that problem so I would be interested to see what the problem is. You still don't have a front driveshaft do you?

Yeah it's weird, and I've got no driveshaft yet.

I did the bl/mml on my tj. The only "shifting" problem I've had is catching second in 4 low. I'd start simple checking linkages, then work my way into more complex things.

Have you cycled the suspension yet to check binding and axle wrap before you drove it?

No cycling w/ tires yet. And not before I drove it.

I thought you just bought the front shocks, and theyre too short? Send em back

I thought you just bought the front shocks, and theyre too short? Send em back

No, I bought rear shocks(Some 13" travel BBCS from Poly Performance), the fronts are the Full Traction shocks that I had on my 3" lift kit originally.

With all this talk about the wedding it wouldn’t be complete without a few pics thrown in here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270016.jpg

The Jeep wasn't ready, but got an awesome groom's cake with a Jeep on it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270048.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270049.jpg

She looked great:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270056.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270095.jpg

Cutting the cake:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270112.jpg

Cake crumbs fell where they would be discovered later in the night :grinpimp:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270123.jpg

The cha-cha slide w/ the ringbearer... I got him an RC Jeep as a wedding party gift:)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Wedding%20Pictures/2009_07270132.jpg

Figured some of you guys would appreciate a follow-up.

Congrats and welcome to married life

The grooms cake pretty much says it all :D

congratulations!!

be utiful bride........ :)

Congrats on the wedding, any more brides maid pics??

Build looks great!

Congrats on the marriage.

Been watching the thread for a while. Great build.

Hey man, don't forget me ;) I'm doing the same D70HD and want to see what tires you used and what the diff to ground measurement ended up being. Trying to figure out my clearances before I order tires.

Congrats on the marriage! Here's to a long and happy one!

Congrats Buddy... That is awesome!

We've been so busy between work and unpacking gifts, got a new TV w/ wedding money, and haven’t really even had the time to work on the Jeep. Also running short on $$, I just mustered up the cash to order a heavy truss from Ruff Stuff along w/ a traction bar kit and a bunch of steel. I'm working 7-6 5 days a week again:shaking:

I’ve done a ton of searching and since I’m building a bit of an oddball TJ decided the traction bar should be no different. I am build a slip-and-twist driveshaft so I can avoid using a shackle and keep the bar’s angle low to keep anti-squat minimal. It will be 1.5” dia 3/8” wall DOM for the inner slip section(at the crossmember side) and the main body of it all will be built w/ 2.0” dia ¼” wall DOM. There was a user on here that had a really trick slip and twist traction bar with a grease channel which I plan on copying. I think I’ll be trying to utilize some of my stock LCA or UCA bushings from my stock TJ control arms that I still have in a pile somewhere. Also have some 3x2in ¼” wall rectangular tubing on the way to build a crossmember.
I’ll measure the diff when I am over there tomorrow.

Congrats on the wedding, hey a good idea for extra money is take all the wedding presents back and buy jeep parts you need. Your wife won't mind will she?LOL

TORNADOTJ:

I got 12" of clearance under the rear diff w/ 40" LTBs at 15psi on a 9.5" wide rim. The tires measure 39" tall, I think mainly due to the skinnier wheels.

congrats on the wedding, ive watched your build. Pretty sweet. Maybe ill see ya around, I live up in Hampton, Im in VB all the time.

TORNADOTJ:

I got 12" of clearance under the rear diff w/ 40" LTBs at 15psi on a 9.5" wide rim. The tires measure 39" tall, I think mainly due to the skinnier wheels.

Thank you very much, that's exactly the information I was looking for. I'm glad you included the tire pressure!

I'll be under mine to compare that to where I sit on D44 and 36" TSL/SX tires on a 10" rim. Trying to see what size tire I'll need to run at minimum to have the same clearance.

Anyways... here was some progress made last night and today... I have Memorial Day off so hopefully I'll have some more to post tomorrow night.

Started taking apart the components on my D60 to clean/inspect and to set caster angle more accurately(need to take the knuckle entirely off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524002.jpg

35 spline D60 outter vs 27(?) spline D30 stock outter:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524003.jpg

Finished crossmember(though I may add more to it out of boredom at times)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/2009_0524009.jpg

....

nice build and love the shopping cart:D

nice build and love the shopping cart:D

Thanks... that build thread is here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=737526&highlight=shopping+cart

:D

I haven't made any tangible progress lately, waiting on the truss from RuffStuff to get here, still need to get my DOM tubing machined to spec so it slides nice and smooth once it's built(and after I get the truss and axle traction bar bracket in place), etc etc.

I did pick up a Dodge Ram master cylinder today from Napa(brand new) for like $105.

Have you been driving it at all lately? What about the shifting issue?

Nah, haven't had a chance to really drive it, I want the traction bar build to keep from wrapping the leafs(they are stupid soft when reversed I guess... 5.86s and 40s doesn't help either) and also need to get the bigger master cylinder installed.

I called Advance Adapters about my defective output shaft that I had to make work for a short while and I need to send it back to them to get a new one. I'm going to tear apart the case and send them the slider hub as well so I can make sure it's correct.

Once it's out at this point I might as well get a damn rebuild kit as I do NOT want to be tearing this case apart again. I haven't looked into it too much but it depends on how far I gotta tear the case apart to get the shift fork/slider hub out so we'll play that by ear.

Also need a cable for the e-brake... I need to tear the console out and see what the lever end looks like and make/find/order something that will work.

Then there's the truss/traction bar that need to go on w/ the crossmember to accomodate that.

Tomorrow I'm going to head over to do some smaller things and possibly pull the t-case out. Need to do a little more wiring(extend the EVAP stuff wires to go into the cab and rear clearance lights and license plate light), maybe swap master cylinders, and some other crap I'm sure.

I had some other crap going on today, lost my cell phone some time last night and somebody got it and has been using it so I had to take care of that today. Verizon blows, gotta wait a few days for a new one... bastards.:shaking:

I took the t-case out today so I can start tearing it down soon, upon doing so I found out that the transmission now shifts smoothly with no problems. I'm thinking that the t-case input shaft is bottoming out on the transmission output shaft making things not line up and cause rough shifting. I didn't install the paper gasket the second time that I put the t-case in so I'm thinking that might space things out just enough to not cause problems. If someone else can confirm this that would be excellent, otherwise I'll just trim 1/8" off the transmission output or something and hope for the best.

I also pulled the center console out to examine the e-brake lever and see what has to happen. It's just a (guessing) 3/16" pin w/ an e-clip retaining it that goes through the handle and the cable end.

Also in case anyone was wondering, I checked my rear pinion and the pinion bearing preload seems about right now. Driving it I guess loosened it up and all is good now.:flipoff2:

Hey anything new on this?

Kinda a mixed day today.

Go over to my parents house... I got a package from Ruff Stuff, but it was not the truss, it was just the traction bar kit:shaking: Ordered originally August 2nd.

Then to add to that I got my rear output shaft back from AA along with the slider hub that it needed to be fitted to... I didn't realize it at first but that was ALL I got back...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1180.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1179.jpg

A little needle bearing assembly belongs in there... it is pressed in by AA in the kit I originally got(bearing already in there... I didn't have to put it in), so I didn't bother removing it(PITA to do and keep it in tact without a decent puller) and ASSumed they would know to put the bearing in the new-new shaft. Nothing there... awesome.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1181.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1183.jpg

So rather than wait until Monday to call AA and bitch at them again for screwing me for the 3rd time I decided to just find the bearing locally. Went down to Advance and after a few minutes with the guy at the counter found the bearing I needed... unfortunately it wasn't in stock so I ordered it and should have it Monday:) Set me back $16 but I'd rather not deal with AA unless I really need to now. When I can afford shifters.. I'm going with North West Fab cable shifters... they're $100 more than AA but I don't want to deal with them.

Obviously I can't install everything without that bearing so all I could reassemble was the intermediate shaft in the D300. So I picked up all 48 of the needle bearings that fell into the t-case upon disassembly:brickwall and covered them in some thick wheelbearing grease, and used my 13/16" impact socket as a "dummy" shaft to help in reassembly. Put the thrust washers in the case held in place with grease, dropped the gear w/ the bearings, spacer, washers, and socket keeping everything from falling out of place, then install the actual intermediate shaft itself through the case, pushing the socket out the other side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1184.jpg

I made sure to have the slider hub back in the case first of course...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1185.jpg

Great build, Seems it coming along. Sorry to hear your having issues with AA, most don't.

Maybe you should change the title to "Get the Heep done before the wife asks for a Divorce" :laughing:

At least thats how it is around my house, Your wifes seems to be pretty cool with it, Congrats :beer:


Again, great job and I waiting for some wheeling videos

I know I keep asking you but how's the drive shaft clearance looking? I'm on the fence about a GM60 or a Ford 60. GM60 looks way too tight.

Great build, Seems it coming along. Sorry to hear your having issues with AA, most don't.

Maybe you should change the title to "Get the Heep done before the wife asks for a Divorce" :laughing:

At least thats how it is around my house, Your wifes seems to be pretty cool with it, Congrats :beer:


Again, great job and I waiting for some wheeling videos

Yeah, I at least got a nice goody bag full of free shit today from them as payback for the inconvenience so it's all good. Got some shirts and hats:smokin:

I know I keep asking you but how's the drive shaft clearance looking? I'm on the fence about a GM60 or a Ford 60. GM60 looks way too tight.

It's a bit tight but not terrible. I'm going to be limited on uptravel of course but it won't be aweful.

I'll try to remember to take my camera on Friday when I go back to finish reinstalling the t-case.

I don't think a flat skid w/ the 4.0 and a GM 60 will work well at all.

Something I was thinking about was this: some people install just a MML without a BL... well I already installed a budget MML(just blocks under the stock mounts), so I'm thinking about buying some MORE 1" lift motor mounts... so I would net 2" of motor mount liftage.

The MML makes all the difference in the world, and the BL really helps with radiator clearance. Once I do this I think my track bar will be the primary uptravel limiter(frame to track bar on the passenger side).

If you go with an Atlas or something that may make it easier too... the D300 is smaller measured from the front output to the input(the front output is more "offset" in relation to the rear output and input).

I have built my suspension around what I've got so I think an Atlas will NOT work for me now as the passenger side control arm mount may interfere with it. I'll have to wait and see once I get a front shaft made.

Didn't you know? She is gracing the front page of the TJ ultimate build thread. :smokin:




Haha. Anya tried to help mount 1 tire to the wheel and it just wasn't happening. She helped me mount the outer rings but that's it. I know exactly how you feel after running the torque wrench on all those bolts. It is best to spread that out over a few days. :laughing:



Dookey: i was just reading through this thread and noticed your location. I'm in Wichita too. Depending on what side of town you live on, I drive a 96 black XJ on 35's, for now. internal cage, washington plates. Anyway, just thought I'd shoot you a line,


Sorry for the thread jack, wasn't thinking.

Dookey: i was just reading through this thread and noticed your location. I'm in Wichita too. Depending on what side of town you live on, I drive a 96 black XJ on 35's, for now. internal cage, washington plates. Anyway, just thought I'd shoot you a line,


Sorry for the thread jack, wasn't thinking.

Thread hijack? Isn't this thread over with by now? :laughing::laughing:

I'm on the East side. If I see you don't be surprised if you see fingers flying and trucks swervin. :grinpimp:

Comming along man. It takes time thats for sure... Get it done and I can help you find some places to get those vids everyone is asking about.:D

I'll try to remember to take my camera on Friday when I go back to finish reinstalling the t-case.

That would be awesome. I finally got my axles so I'm wanting to start this pretty soon. Mine will be pretty much like yours. Same wheelbase, except I'm linking the rear.

Comming along man. It takes time thats for sure... Get it done and I can help you find some places to get those vids everyone is asking about.:D

Sounds good dude:smokin:

That would be awesome. I finally got my axles so I'm wanting to start this pretty soon. Mine will be pretty much like yours. Same wheelbase, except I'm linking the rear.

Yeah... actually I don't know if I'll be over there tomorrow... may be Saturday instead, forgot that I made plans with some friends to go to the 1/8mi drag strip.... I may drive my sick ass Clown Vic if it passes tech inspection:laughing:

Thread hijack? Isn't this thread over with by now? :laughing::laughing:

I'm on the East side. If I see you don't be surprised if you see fingers flying and trucks swervin. :grinpimp:

:flipoff2:

Hey Congrats on the wedding! and the build is looking good, ive been following it for a while, im doing the same thing on my tj, including the xj leafs in the rear. And the gm60 up front, havent gotten to the front yet, so ill keep an eye on yours to see how you take care of the clearance issues.
Congrats again!:beer:

Thanks dude!

Anyways...

Cut the rear truss up to tie it into the center of the diff with the giant flange thing that the previous owner welded to the axle. Got it all welded up and it's now painted to match the rest of the axle(hammered silver).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/091918221.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/09191821.jpg

I was going to reinstall the t-case, but the front output is leaking slowly, so I ordered one today, will be picking up the seal tomorrow to replace then reinstall the transfercase.

Don't remember if I mentioned it but after work on Thursday I stopped at the Dodge dealer and ordered a L/R e-brake cable for a 2006 Caravan... from looking under cars at work it appears this will work well for my t-case brake and stock e-brake lever. We'll see how it works out when I get it.

Today I replaced the front output shaft seal in the t-case, bolted it back in, threw the driveshaft and whatnot back under the Jeep, put the skidplate on, double-checked tightening every bolt on the suspension, got some rubber hose for the diff breathers and t-case installed, and put the Ram master cylinder in the Jeep.

The brake pedal feels SO much better now. Feels very close to stock at least at low speeds. I got it up to probably 25mph with no funny problems, fluids being spewed anywhere, or strange noises(aside from the t-case brake... it makes some silly racket occasionally, not bad though).


The exhaust sounds pretty close in person to what it does in the video... too damn loud.

The Jeep:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1186.jpg

Went to remove the old master cylinder... of course the rear brake circuit(front port on MC) is siezed like hell... ended up giving it just a bit of heat with a propane torch... luckily it worked.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1188.jpg

Here is the new vs old for a little comparison:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1190.jpg

It basically bolts on except for two things... you gotta hack up the bracket that goes on after the MC that holds the combination valve steady, and buy a 2" long 1/4-28 bolt to modify and use as a brake booster pushrod. You need to grind the edges off of it so it fits the MC. The old MC extends pretty far into the booster, the new one only goes in about 1/2" so you need a longer pushrod to make it work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1191.jpg

In the excitement of test driving it again I forgot to take more pics of it installed but I'll get those next time I'm over there.

I got the MC installed, bled the brakes, pedal was still pretty spongy... I adjusted the pushrod again further out... 1.5 turns makes HUGE difference. Now the pedal is hard as a rock and seems to work great:thumbsup:

And as promised, the test drive video I'm sure a lot of you have been waiting a while for:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/th_DSCF1192.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/?action=view&current=DSCF1192.flv)

Please excuse my dad's lack of video skills, 90% of it is his knee and the front tire, but if you turn up the volume you can hear the commentary.

I need to build a traction bar before I drive it again, the springs do NOT like it one bit:laugh:

Why do you choose to run a T-case brake that gives you so much trouble. Run one of these little brackets. They are around $35 from CEO offroad and work flawlessly. Several friends run them. Keep it simple so you can drive it sooner.



run a dodge master cylinder and get a trick bracket from CEO Offroad to hook to the stock parking brake lever/mechanism with another small master cylinder to act as a rear line lock/parking brake ...

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l116/ceoffroad/rhonds_camra214.jpg

Why do you choose to run a T-case brake that gives you so much trouble. Run one of these little brackets. They are around $35 from CEO offroad and work flawlessly. Several friends run them. Keep it simple so you can drive it sooner.

I'm already kind of pushing the state inspection code for having "an emergency brake that is not of OEM type" so I want to at least keep it fully mechanical.

The t-case brake really isn't a big problem, it's just that I want to find an OEM part that is usable... I like not needing custom order crap that could take days to get if I were to ever need another.

I've seen that setup before and it is really awesome, but I talked to the state trooper about my questionable e-brake and he said to at least make it a fully mechanical piece to not throw any red flags.

I'm a state inspector so my vehicles have to be up to code.

It will be... once stuff is all hooked up:D

Understood, but I've never seen anyone crawl underneath a rig to see exactly how the ebrake worked. I think the belly pan and tcase would be in the way to see anything anyways. They must do alot more thorough inspection in Va than in Tx.

Understood, but I've never seen anyone crawl underneath a rig to see exactly how the ebrake worked. I think the belly pan and tcase would be in the way to see anything anyways. They must do alot more thorough inspection in Va than in Tx.

Yeah, VA is one of the more strict places for state inspections. It's not bad as far as smog crap(that is county dependent.. I know northern VA has the sniffer test in some areas), but the inspection itself is taken pretty seriously, the state troopers will come after your ass if you look past something obviously wrong on a car or if a wheel falls off 2 months after an inspection or something along those lines.

edit: and the car has to go on a lift for an under chassis inspection.

what did you set the front caster at? pinion angle also?

clutch much? (video) :flipoff2:lol just busting your balls came out really nice... for some reason all stock jeep transmissions love to bang...grind and fight you into gear. they especially hate being jammed into gear. i know i've been threw 2 ax-15's.

clutch much? (video) :flipoff2:lol just busting your balls came out really nice... for some reason all stock jeep transmissions love to bang...grind and fight you into gear. they especially hate being jammed into gear. i know i've been threw 2 ax-15's.

LOL nah it's really not that bad, shit just jumps around like hell because the rear end is wrapping like crazy.

The traction bar will make it much better... I hope.:laughing:

Why do you choose to run a T-case brake that gives you so much trouble. Run one of these little brackets. They are around $35 from CEO offroad and work flawlessly. Several friends run them. Keep it simple so you can drive it sooner.

When using this bracket do you have to apply brake pressure then pull the parking brake? Or does the parking brake work independently of the foot brakes?
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l116/ceoffroad/rhonds_camra214.jpg


Nice build flatlander, your keeping me inspired about getting my axles ready for a swap.

What have you found about tire coverage being an issue with inspection/legality in Va? I have looked over the code but never saw it mentioned.

When using this bracket do you have to apply brake pressure then pull the parking brake? Or does the parking brake work independently of the foot brakes?

Don't wanna jack his thread, but the people using it have said just pull it. It is its own master cylinder and works great.

From another thread where to get it from, and how to plumb it.
1) For the bracket call Mark at CEO Offroad ... http://www.ceoffroad.com/contact.html, Wilwood slave cylinder p/n WIL-260-6089 ordered online for about $50 plus shipping
2) 45 degree fitting is output and runs towards rear axle where it tees on the axle housing to each caliper, 90 degree fitting is input line from main master cylinder.

what did you set the front caster at? pinion angle also?

Caster is at like 7 degrees IIRC.


Nice build flatlander, your keeping me inspired about getting my axles ready for a swap.

What have you found about tire coverage being an issue with inspection/legality in Va? I have looked over the code but never saw it mentioned.

Here is a link to the VA state code:

http://leg1.state.va.us/000/reg/TOC19030.HTM#C0070

19VAC30-70-180. Clearance lamps and reflectors.

Inspect for and reject if:

1. Any motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer or other vehicle is not equipped with clearance lamps if the vehicle is over seven feet wide or if any portion extends four inches or more outside the front fender line.



Don't wanna jack his thread, but the people using it have said just pull it. It is its own master cylinder and works great.

From another thread where to get it from, and how to plumb it.
1) For the bracket call Mark at CEO Offroad ... http://www.ceoffroad.com/contact.html, Wilwood slave cylinder p/n WIL-260-6089 ordered online for about $50 plus shipping
2) 45 degree fitting is output and runs towards rear axle where it tees on the axle housing to each caliper, 90 degree fitting is input line from main master cylinder.


The master cylinder is plumbed in-line with the rear brake circuit... when you squeeze the lever it cuts the circuit in half basically and continues to compress the back half of it(the calipers) so it applies the brakes.

I asked the state trooper about that and he said he wants to see a fully mechanical e-brake under my Jeep.

You can probably get away with it but I can't as my vehicle is looked at a bit closer:laughing:

Got the e-brake cable mostly figured out. It's a cable for an 06 Caravan. I had to cut the spring off of one end, but other than that the wheel-end is basically a direct bolt on to the lever. The hole in the cable is slotted, but it won't be an issue, just adjust the e-brake at the t-case to remove the slack.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1196.jpg

At the t-case I'm going to cut the end as it is long as shit so I can bolt on a new cable end(HELP! section from auto parts store.. it's an e-brake cable repair kit). Just drill out the cable stops as the repair kit is for slightly smaller e-brake cable. Shouldn't be a big deal, I'm going to double up on the stops for a little extra assurance.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1197.jpg

Tomorrow I think I'm going to get cracking on a bracket for the cable housing at the t-case end.

Sorry if this was covered but, I thought t/c brakes were NOT legal in VA? I plan on running a swagelok for function and eldorado calipers for legality. We shall see...

Sorry if this was covered but, I thought t/c brakes were NOT legal in VA? I plan on running a swagelok for function and eldorado calipers for legality. We shall see...

Technically they shouldn't pass state inspection, but as long as it's fully mechanical it won't cause any problems. This was directly from the 4 or 5 state troopers for the Hampton Roads area when I took my exam.

Technically they shouldn't pass state inspection, but as long as it's fully mechanical it won't cause any problems. This was directly from the 4 or 5 state troopers for the Hampton Roads area when I took my exam.

Man I am glad that my vehicles don't have to go through this B.S.!!

I think I would move to another State. :mad3:

Yeah... it's not downright terrible... it keeps rolling deathtraps off the roads, but a few things are dumb.

Full hydro is fine, tires sticking out is fine(with clearance lights on the sides), etc etc.

....


Anyways... I got a functioning e-brake now:

Here was the mockup of the bracket for the cable housing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1198.jpg

If you think it looks familiar, then you're right... it's cut off of the huge bracket under the middle of every TJ, it's where the single e-brake cable splits into 2 cables to go to the wheels:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1200.jpg

Checked it and then welded it in:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1201.jpg

I don't think there is a ton of stress going on and I don't want to warp the t-case brake bracket so that is why it isn't fully welded the whole way. If/when I ever pull that entire bracket off I may weld the other side too.

Cable routing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1202.jpg

The cable stops... I used an e-brake repair kit from Advance Auto in the HELP! section, I had to drill them out to fit the big f-n cable through them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1203.jpg

And installed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1205.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1206.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1207.jpg

It's starting to get darker earlier... dammit. I hate having to clean up in the pitch dark...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1209.jpg

Got one of the rear shocks mounted today(well... made the mounts then painted... shock is now removed as paint is drying):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1214.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1213.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1210.jpg

It looks like nearly no uptravel, but since they are angled kinda steep I will get more suspension travel than shock travel. I'm estimating 3-4" of uptravel in the rear.

Shaynea modelling my Jeep and one of the free Advance Adapters shirts I got:thumbsup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1217.jpg

Tightening stuff up after weldage:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1219.jpg

Finished product:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1221.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1222.jpg

I wasted a lot of the day just trying to figure out how to mount the upper part of the shock... I wanted it double shear with the lower mount's bolt going fore and aft with the upper going left to right... this is so the bushings do not bind at all when the axle is articulating. The upper bushing compensates for most of the forward and backward movement of the axle, and the lower compensates for the axle twisting when one side is flexed and the other is not.

Hopefully the weather is decent and I can mimick that on the other side tomorrow.

Once I do the other shock and some wiring I'll try another test drive, if the axle doesn't wrap too badly I may go the exhaust shop:thumbsup:

Anyways... finished the other shock mounting today, also found time to mount the rear license plate and get the light working.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1225.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1226.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1231.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1232.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1229.jpg

Basically I cut the wire inside the rear fender well(above the tire) coming out of the 3rd brake light contact, and spliced it into the running lights. So instead of 3rd brake light wiring the tailgate now functions as the license plate light wiring. The Jeep is over 80" wide so a 3rd brake light is not necessary in VA.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1227.jpg

As for the e-brake, it works pretty damn good IMO... it chirps those big *** tires coming to a stop:thumbsup: (Evidence in the video below!)

Ready again for another quick drive around the neighborhood:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/DSCF1228.jpg

And the video... Got my sister to film it since she happened to be walking by. About a minute in the middle is kinda useless, but at one point my mom comes out and says "Well that's good!" and my sister replied "Yeah it's finally gone" or something like that:rofl:

When I first come back onto the street(right after walking lady walks across the street) I used the e-brake to do all the stopping... Works pretty damn good IMO.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/th_DSCF1230.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/1%20ton%20build/?action=view&current=DSCF1230.flv)

Nice. Did you use the e-brake to do all the stopping because your brakes arent plumbed yet or just wanted to see how well it did?

Nice. Did you use the e-brake to do all the stopping because your brakes arent plumbed yet or just wanted to see how well it did?

Just to see how well it works as an actual "emergency" brake... not just a "parking" brake. Works great:D

With the Ram master cylinder it stops pretty damn good IMO. I've gotta get up to highway speeds to judge if it is really good enough or not, but it feels better than a stock TJ pedal at least at low speeds.

Nice work man. I bet it feels nice to have it done and moving again!

Question...... Are there ORV parks and/or legal trails in Virginia where you can wheel this rig?

Nice work man. I bet it feels nice to have it done and moving again!

Moving yes... done no:laughing:

It is nice though:grinpimp:

http //www youtube com/watch?v=gqsbAVxGp5s (http://www.tradeshoes9.com)

http //www youtube com/watch?v=gqsbAVxGp5s (http://www.tradeshoes9.com)


SPAM:mad3:

Question...... Are there ORV parks and/or legal trails in Virginia where you can wheel this rig?

There's private land in Crozet, VA where there is open wheeling a few times a year, and a few other private places. There's also Uwharrie National Forest in NC.

Search Pirate for Crozet, there's some pretty good obstacles there from what I understand:)

i can show you tons of pics of my shit at crozet

Come bring it out there, I will meet up and wheel with your ass:flipoff2:

http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs113.snc1/4679_202325395617_657390617_6911687_8232124_n.jpg
http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs083.snc1/4889_217217015617_657390617_7292254_4146299_n.jpg

There's private land in Crozet, VA where there is open wheeling a few times a year, and a few other private places. There's also Uwharrie National Forest in NC.

Search Pirate for Crozet, there's some pretty good obstacles there from what I understand:)


[me confused]...... You built this massive rig, but you don't wheel it ? [/me confused]

[me confused]...... You built this massive rig, but you don't wheel it ? [/me confused]

It isn't finished yet.

and a few other private places.


:smokin:

Hurry up!

:grinpimp:

There's private land in Crozet, VA where there is open wheeling a few times a year, and a few other private places. There's also Uwharrie National Forest in NC.

Search Pirate for Crozet, there's some pretty good obstacles there from what I understand:)


Callalantee OHV in Mt City TN has some real nice trails and its not much further than URE from you.

Our group is headed up there this weekend for our annual camping/wheeling trip.

It isn't finished yet.

I understand this....... but it sounds like it has never been wheeled (me confused). Why would you build such a rig if you don't know if you even like to wheel?

First few pics in this thread looks like he wheeled it...

[me confused]...... You built this massive rig, but you don't wheel it ? [/me confused]

I never did any real hardcore shit, but then again it was only on 33s... I wouldn't dare take it to Crozet or something like that.... I figure might as well build it up and then I can take it damn near anywhere.

I wheeled Uwharrie National Forest for like 3 weekends and I also went "mudding" some place in Chesapeake, but it turned out to be private land so I never did that again(the guy who showed me the place lied and claimed it was his uncle's land... it was not).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/IMGP0229.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/IMGP0230.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/IMGP0247.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/IMGP0257.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/th_100_0184.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/?action=view&current=100_0184.flv)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/th_100_0186.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20May%2008/?action=view&current=100_0186.flv)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20Nov%2008/th_100_0229.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20Nov%2008/?action=view&current=100_0229.flv)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20Nov%2008/th_100_0214.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/flatlander757/Jeep%20stuff/Uwharrie%20-%20Nov%2008/?action=view&current=100_0214.flv)

Why would you build such a rig if you don't know if you even like to wheel?

now me confused :flipoff2:

hows the axle wrap on the test ride... looks a pretty bad just pulling out of your drive way.

[me confused]...... You built this massive rig, but you don't wheel it ? [/me confused]

I went through this dilemma too. I didn't want to waste money upgrading axles that weren't big enough, semi-large tires that would be replaced, etc. I too am making the jump from stock to extreme. I never even broke a D35 shaft. But I drove like I was always going to break so it wasn't any fun.

hows the axle wrap on the test ride... looks a pretty bad just pulling out of your drive way.

Fawkin' aweful:eek:

I'm calling a machine shop some time this week so I can get working on my slip and twist traction bar.

I went through this dilemma too. I didn't want to waste money upgrading axles that weren't big enough, semi-large tires that would be replaced, etc. I too am making the jump from stock to extreme. I never even broke a D35 shaft. But I drove like I was always going to break so it wasn't any fun.


Yeah... most I've broken is a rear driveshaft(Tom Wood) but I drive like everything is made of glass.... I wanna go apeshit on some big rocks:flipoff2: