OK. Can't tell you if this is well thought out or not, but what have you done to solve SOA articulation and E-Brake cable issues. I don't have an e-brake cable, nor do I have the ebrake bar. But then, I drive an auto, so it is less of an issue than it would be with a stick.

So, what is the solution? I know my old ebrake cable setup would not have worked. Just install it, and set it up with lots of play, so even though it tightens on droop, it still does not engage the shoes? Then, just push the ebrake pedal a long way to get it to engage....?

I use a line lock. I got it from summit. I forget the name so I'm not much help but it's a lead anyhow.

you can use a universal cable kit like the lokar ones and run them down ether your main leaf or your traction bar..

you can also run mico locks.. those are the hydrolic line locks that tow truck drivers use.

i dont like useing line locks (the electrical ones). the reason is they get hot after being on for a few min, then they create enough resistance to ether kick out or short out. next thing ya know your rig is rolling.

me? half the time i throw a chock under the tire cause the brakes dont hold to well (working on that)

Use limiting straps and bumpstops to reduce your wheel travel to 3 or 4 inches total and you won't have any problems with your e-brake cables.

Pat,

My thoughts on what I was thinking about trying.
Get the brake cables from a (idontknow) chevy van. They look about 3-4' long. long enough they should fit up to the stock location on the frame.
run your factory e-brake cable back to it's hard connection point on the frame. and then make a shorter cable to stretch between the two sides to the main connection.

I can see it in my head - just not real good explaining it. I do think this will work. I spent lots of time at pull-a-part looking into these parts.

Ritch

My ebrake works fine with my rear SOA - good thing, too, since I've been having brake problems on darn near everything lately.

May take a few clicks to tighten it up at-rest, but it still works.

It IS a little tight at full droop.. but it hasn't been hurt yet.

Maybe I'm losing a few points on the ramp, but who cares about that? :flipoff2:

I won't be replacing my mechanical e-brake with any kind of line-lock. That is NOT a substitution.. lose brake fluid, still lose brakes.

Having a functional E-brake is just one less fix-it-ticket.. and if the cops keep pulling you over because you LOOK like you're in violation, and they can't find anything? Well, then that's called HARASSMENT, and at least *my* local DA doesn't care much for it. :D

I think I'll look into Jesse's driveshaft e-brake down the road.. when I go to rear discs.

I was pondering this very thing a few days ago. I was checkin' out Inline Tube (http://www.inlinetube.com/cables.htm) and they also make e-brake cables. There is a blurb on their e-brake page saying something to the effect that they can make just about any cable even if it isn't listed in their catalog. If this is so, I don't see any reason why they couldn't just make a 'stock' Scout II cable that was several inches longer. Of course that means buying new cables so that rules this option out for the cheap a$$es that refuse to spend any money on their rigs. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by TORC
course that means buying new cables so that rules this option out for the cheap a$$es that refuse to spend any money on their rigs. :flipoff2:

Maybe this is a good time to mention I'm using my stock, stretched out e-brake cable - the same one that I've had to stack washers under the adjusting nut to get it tightened up in the past. I think I'm up to 4 or 5 7/16" nuts stacked..

Cheap-ass? :D

I use a micro lock from JC Whitney....it really doesn't work as well with the drum rears as it did with the 4 wheel discs on the stock axles.....but I am going to have rear discs soon.....(getting tired of packing around the chock block).......at least by this time next year.......maybe..........:flipoff2:

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Cheap-ass? :D
Not directed at any one person in particular, but it does seem that more often than not, people that are wanting some "gismo" for their rig just expect the damn thing to fall out of the sky into their laps.... even if it is available at a reasonable price. Just my opinion which pretty much doesn't mean a damn thing. :flipoff2:

I am curious - If I am willing to find solutions through the use of old ball parts and creative thinking...

Does it make me a cheap ass? or does it mean I can think outside of the box to find solutions where there was none before?

I'm sure the folks who know me would say - a creative cheap ass. :D

Ritch
Home of the Wal-Mart special Scout.

Originally posted by nwmud
[B]I am curious.......use of old ball parts .........make me a cheap ass..........[B]


What the hell are you talking about ??

Originally posted by Ben W
Use limiting straps and bumpstops to reduce your wheel travel to 3 or 4 inches total and you won't have any problems with your e-brake cables.

Can't I just eliminate those stupid flat springy things under there, and weld the axle to the frame? Seems like it would work better that way...

Originally posted by jdjanda



What the hell are you talking about ??
Gee - I really need to learn to spell
ODD-BALL Parts.

Ritch - other than that - who knows what the Fawk I am ever talking about.

Originally posted by TORC

Not directed at any one person in particular, but it does seem that more often than not, people that are wanting some "gismo" for their rig just expect the damn thing to fall out of the sky into their laps.... even if it is available at a reasonable price. Just my opinion which pretty much doesn't mean a damn thing. :flipoff2:

What are you talking about? I'd like to find solutions that just fall out of the air, but it is like the link bars I see everywhere. Why should I pay $250 for something I can make, with some welding help, for much less than that? That is not being cheap. It is being smart.

But then, I never was much into the bolt on toys in any case...

If, you are saying, we tend to sit on our hands, waiting for a great deal, instead of forking over bucks to do it now, that is me. Someone elses junk is my treasure, and I have too many mouths to feed to be able to afford to waste money when I don't have to. That is why I am waiting for my 35's+ till I get gears, and I am waiting for me gears to fall out of the sky into my lap, rather than fork over hundreds of dollars to Randy's.

If I wanted a quick wheeling answer that I could buy whatever I wanted for, whenever I wanted, I would buy a bolt on Jeep or Toy, pay $25K to trick it out, and go wheel. But, I like creating my own solutions.

This is fun. I don't make enough money to buy everything I want right now, so I take it one day at a time.. and wait for bargains.

Originally posted by nwmud
- a creative cheap ass. :D

Ritch
Home of the Wal-Mart special Scout.

Now that was funny.:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
I like it.

chill out.... I'm just babbling.... :eek:

I use a block of wood on the pickup (e-brake does not exist) and it is a standerd

A royal PITA

Originally posted by TORC
chill out.... I'm just babbling.... :eek:



:cool:

Check this out http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/pneumatic_parking_brake.htm

Its on a toyota but it might give you some ideas.

Originally posted by Ben W
Check this out http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/pneumatic_parking_brake.htm

Its on a toyota but it might give you some ideas.

Interesting, I wonder if he has any problems with leak down.....

Hoop, I found the rear cables off a T-all are about 3-5" longer then the Scout stuff, but the cable is too short. I'm going to cut the cable and add in a section using cable clamps. Don't know how well it'll hold. Next option may be a t-case mounted e-brake.