: Mud Bog Prep


ginericfj80
08-28-2002, 08:30 AM
For our Annual Air Force Appreciation Days, they have added a mud bog to the schedule of events. One of my friends has a specific mud bog 40. http://www.nwcruisers.com/rig11.htm He and a few of my other non Cruiser friends have convinced me that I should enter my FJ60 in the mud bog. It is only 18" deep and I'm about to be rebuilding the tranny and transfer anyway. I probably need to do the knuckles this fall. So I figure what the heck I'll give it a shot. What would you all recommend for preparring my 60 for it?

Jason M
08-28-2002, 08:35 AM
Some of the Q 78 swampers ;)

Or boggers if you can...

Other than that, A lot of gas pedal and vent all of your dif/cases to the cab..

ginericfj80
08-28-2002, 08:43 AM
I wish I could change tires. I'm on 35" Mud Kings. I wish I could go to a 33 swamper or bogger prior to the race. I might see if I can borrow a friend's tires and wheels. The 33s would put me in a lower class. Diffs are vented into the snorkel. My big question is which gear do I try. I know I can't shift quick enough in the mud. H55f Ranger Underdrive 4.10s. 350 that the computer shuts down when it bounces off the redline. I'm good for about 4500 rpms.

Jason M
08-28-2002, 08:48 AM
I have no idea on which gear to start out in.

I live in the desert. We have only had like .25" of rain so far this year :confused:

Find Tex on this board. He knows a LOT about muddin...

Mr McGee
08-28-2002, 11:37 AM
i was just wonderin where i saw those pics of that red one (had em for a while)...

i would get the r's up and start in second....but thats just my opinion.

hey how does your buddy cool that beast...or does it not really matter because it is run for little periods of time?

-Max

Kaderabek
08-28-2002, 12:03 PM
Originally posted by lcsixty

What would you all recommend for preparring my 60 for it? [/B]

Mount some tall rubber boots to the passenger seat...

TJK

Jare
08-28-2002, 01:00 PM
Originally posted by lcsixty
For our Annual Air Force Appreciation Days, they have added a mud bog to the schedule of events. One of my friends has a specific mud bog 40. http://www.nwcruisers.com/rig11.htm

Nice toy your friends have:p That just gave me a question that do you have any off road sport in states that would be like Formula Off Road (originally sport from Iceland)?? That car would already have engine and paddle tyres for it....but the car should be lower.

Swedish Formula Off Road Jeep for Standard class:
http://www.4x4-racing.com/images/nfoc/vormsund2-02/fredde2.jpg

This is also from Sweden (Hans Mäki www.makioffroadracing.com)
but his Jeep is for Special class:
http://www.4x4-racing.com/images/nfoc/vormsund2-02/maki5.jpg
http://www.4x4-racing.com/images/nfoc/vormsund2-02/maki1.jpg

Here is one grazy Norwegian driver Torgeir Johansen and his Bandit in Specials:
http://www.4x4-racing.com/images/nfoc/vormsund2-02/torger2.jpg
http://www.4x4-racing.com/images/nfoc/vormsund2-02/torger3.jpg

Well hey thats a bit off the topic but hey remember to cover your radiator and take of the fan or put a electric fan. I always have problems with my BJ-40 (I have 4.0l, 6 cyl. diesel from HJ-60) with fan slinging goo all over the engine and the radiator.

Jare from Finland:D

BJ On Roids
08-28-2002, 04:12 PM
i have a similar setup to jare, with a bigassed turbo,

wind your windows up, boggers/paddles/cut swampers, ill rock, or mud tyres.....are okay.....

i recommend third low.....and full noise i leave the line in third low, and bouncing on the governor, for the whole course, clouds of soot, cause im running a lot of fuel (rich mixture)

breathers for t-case, (its right behind the box) change all your oils anyways, (afterward) especially diffs, and birf grease, thoruoghly clean the cab out, the alternator will die, along with the starter motor so maybe before you go, spray them with a water dispersant spray, sheep fat WD-40, something....
the fan will throw mud all over your engine bay, SOOO try and cover along the bottom of it, with a piece of rubber, if you have a body lift, cover the sides of the engine bay (where tha gap was left cause of the lift, mud gets in there......try and cover most of your electrics.....if you get stuck, its gunna be in your doors, and sills, and fun stuff to clean out....get a 40, inject it, and you wont worry about interior, or sills or bay or anything ;) sounds like a blast....guarantee you will have fun as you hammer through it!! (cleaning is the pain, and fixing broken stuff)

you won't beat that red thing, its PHAAAT, gave me a wood last time i saw the pics of it.........:D

ginericfj80
08-28-2002, 04:14 PM
We don't have anything like that over here. And I guess I'm glad. Those guys are insane. I had a video of some of the lava rock racing and then they ran their paddles over a pond at 75mph. NUTS! The video said 60-85,000 for a race rig and then 5 seconds later you have 3000 lbs of scrap metal.

Darrel uses an aluminum radiator in his Mud Bog/Sand Drag 40 and he runs an electric fuel pump. At his last race he did 150 feet it 4.01 seconds. I don't know what that translates into mph but it is pretty darn fast. I've rode in Bad Dawg once with the old motor and basically you could be going up a dune fairly quick at about 4,000 rpms and he'd stand on it and launch all 4 wheels at 8000 rpms.

I'm excited and nervous about this. I'm trying to find some smaller tires. I'm running 35x12.50 Mud Kings and I'd like to find some 33 Swampers or Boggers to borrow for the mud bog. Nobody in Idaho really runs tires like those though. There is one guy who used to be in our club who has some 33x14.50 Boggers so I'll beg him to see if I could borrow them. It isn't like they will have much wear in a couple passes of 200 feet of mud. 35s put me in modified. If I can get down to 33s I can run the stock class even though I have OME, 350TBI, different gears etc...

BJ On Roids
08-28-2002, 06:16 PM
i was going to suggest running the 35s, especially if you have more power than stock.....BUT to get into the next class down

remember its only mud, its gunna get dirty anyways, the less you see the better, wear old clothes, cause the mud we have over here, stains clothes pretty badly (imagine what it does to your paint) :confused:

get photos...sounds awesome

landcruiser (diverse, offroad vehicle):D

mind does: mud, beach, rocks, and road

wngrog
08-28-2002, 08:06 PM
I spent my first 15 years of wheeling in the mud. It does not take HP to win in the mud, but it helps.

"MO" is your friend in the mud. Hit it hard and don't let up.

Ditch the Mud Kings, they will flat suck ass. If you can't borrow some tires, then air yours down to NOTHING and let her rip.

Finally, block off as much of your engine compartment from the mud as possible with cheapo rubber floor mats and duct tape before you dive in.

rabid
08-29-2002, 12:45 PM
Put together a tin shield to cover the front of your air cleaner to keep the gunk out. A cardboard box would work if you had to.
Another tip from the mudder guys around here is to blast the hell out of all electrical wires with a straight shot of wd-40. In the dist. cap as well. Should keep her running.
Aside from that, mat it and cut the wheel back and forth as much as you can and stay in control. If you have a tire like a swamper, or anything with a side lug, they do help to use the sides a bit, especially if you are near the end of the pack, after the pit is well chewed up. Try to go in about the halfway mark in the lineup. Far enough back to not have to break ground, but just enough forward to keep from the pit being too buggered up.

Plug up any drain holes in the floor, or your carpet will stink forever if it gets too wet.

PICS:D

woody
08-29-2002, 01:10 PM
I used to play the bod drags/bogs in the late 80's/early 90's. First off, sticks and shifting do not work in bogs. Pick a gear you know you can hold and get in it. IMO, 2nd or 3rd in low range, stock tranny/t-case and 4.11 gears. Wheel speed is important when you can stay on TOP of the mud, but once you hit the bottom, you just want to ensure you keep propulsion. Mud drags are simply a matter of tossing what's ahead of you now to behind you later...heh

WD40 everything under there....does help for cleanup. Dielectric grease all the important conections, since a sputtering plug will suck when it's wet/muddy. Find a old mud flap and figger out a way to get it to hang down in front of the truck (indian style - can I say that??) That'll help keep much of the junk from splashing into your engine compartment. Install a cheap air cleaner - one you can toss out after, since yours will be messed.

I did mud drags for 3 summers in my old 1977 40 series - 31" tires, 305 V8, open diffs, all stock otherwise. Took consistent top 3's in the "stock" classes - back then, a bone stock V8 swap was allowed in the V8 stock class.

Ran drags until May 1992, when I was out "practicing" my launches. Twisted off the input shaft of the Toy 4-speed. Apparrently, all that instant torque load thru the Centerforce was a big much. heh heh

ginericfj80
08-29-2002, 04:03 PM
Air Cleaner is OK. Snorkel with completely sealed unit. I'll run the snorkel backwards if I anticipate it splashing in. I'm going to use Potato truck belting to seal off the engine compartment. Basically I'm riveting a blanket from the front crossmemeber to end of the engine bay. I need to find some Swamper or Bogger 33s to borrow. I can't justify buying some for 200 feet, maybe 400 if I get lucky enough to go twice. 35s put me in a higher class and yes I'm aware that my new Mud Kings suck in the mud. Fortunately, we don't usually have any mud on our trails. High Desert living keeps our rigs pretty clean. I'm not worried about the interior as it is a wagon. I'll roll up the windows before I go for it.

Should I try to stay in the ruts or try to find my own path? I believe I'm going to sink. It would take a pretty wide tire to keep a heavy 60 afloat.

I'm going to go practice my launches this weekend a bit. We have a lake that has almost dried up that I can run along the edge just down the road from me. I could also head out to my friends potato field. He offered to turn on the irrigation to let me take a run at the edge of it. I know I won't be able to shift once I get into it. The old h55f isn't too fast. Mine is pretty notchy. I have approximately 10 feet before I hit the mud. So, I'll try to figure out which gear I can get maximum speed and rpms without shifting.

Should I lock my rearend? (ARB) I'm thinking so. More power with two wheels slinging mud than just one.

You have all some good ideas. If anyone has anymore send away.

BJ On Roids
08-29-2002, 06:27 PM
yeah lockers are cool

H55 split case, 4.11s, 35s, and i can hold 3rd low and 35s, like i said before, i like the wheelspeed

if you can ARB or weld the back up, then go for it especially if it doesnt move you into the next class..........

locked back is awesome for mud, just hammer it, if you like try and shift in the 10 feet from 2nd to third, to get the revs up there shouldnt be too hard...im gunna go have a try

see if i can hit the governor from second low in ten feet

BJ On Roids
08-29-2002, 06:51 PM
borrow some 33x14.5 bogger or 33x 15.5 TSL, the width might be harder to turn, i can easily peg the governor in low range in under ten feet :D BUT, my tyres are only 12.5 wide........and i was on pavement.....