anybody got any closeup comparison pics of a warn or whoever axle that's made for full clips to a stock dana shaft that's been mod'd to use full clips ? was hoping to do this and hold me over until I get the coin up to order some Warns ... or should I just tack the caps on ?

- jack

warn axle pic stolen from ????

Here is a Spicer axle that's been cut for full circle. Notice how the ears have been distorted! The axle failed when he snapped the 30 spline shaft. The 760 joint was intact!

I cut mine with a boring bar. They look like the above pic. However, I have problems getting enough to clear a snap ring over the cap and into the groove in the cup. So, I install the c-clip then rotate it around to the back. Then, tack weld the end of the clip so it can't rotate back. This placed the load at the back of the yoke where the support is, instead of out at the end of the ears. The back portion of the ear is the only portion that can handle the load without deflecting..

Here is one that the cap failed. They caught this before the cap was totally expelled, thus no other dammage resulted. Notice how the cap's rim was ripped off, starting at the back where the ear's support is... Without the full circle clip, this would definatly been more distructive!

thanks for the pics guys.

okcrawler, have you got any pics of yours cut for the full clip without the joint installed ?

also, what do you mean about rotating it around to the back where it can handle the load ? rotate what ? the opening in the clip ?

thanks.

- jack

this is a pic of a cut spicer shaft

Originally posted by morpheus
okcrawler, have you got any pics of yours cut for the full clip without the joint installed ?

also, what do you mean about rotating it around to the back where it can handle the load ? rotate what ? the opening in the clip ?

I don't have any pics here, I could probably snap one tonight. I install the c-clip like normal. Then rotate the clip around the cap until the body is centered in the back, and the gap is facing towards you.

The snap ring is probably better, but you have to cut deeper into the axle yoke so the ring can spread and drop over the cap then into the groove.

Jayson and myself have always done our own. We are not crazy about cutting the web flat across like the others do (see Aggro's pic). To me, it looks like it would weaken the ears too much. I don't have any basis for that, just an oppinion we share...

Realisticy, you are stuck with what ever your local machine shop will do...

Originally posted by okcrawler


The snap ring is probably better, but you have to cut deeper into the axle yoke so the ring can spread and drop over the cap then into the groove.


so, you're still using the clips that come with the joints and not full c-clips or snap rings ? sorry if i'm being an idiot ...

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus
so, you're still using the clips that come with the joints and not full c-clips or snap rings ? sorry if i'm being an idiot ...
- jack

Correct, I'm using the u-joints "c"-clips... When you convert to 'full circle' you use snap rings. One problem with the snap rings is finding the correct thickness. The ones at you local hardware store are often very thin. But, search and you'll find a recent thread on that topic... ;)

My way is just a little different, but then that's just me.. :rasta:

when u guys TACK your clips in, do you have a problem getting them apart the next time?

Originally posted by okcrawler


Correct, I'm using the u-joints "c"-clips... When you convert to 'full circle' you use snap rings. One problem with the snap rings is finding the correct thickness. The ones at you local hardware store are often very thin. But, search and you'll find a recent thread on that topic... ;)

My way is just a little different, but then that's just me.. :rasta:


Ahhh .... I get it now. You're opening it up a bit so you can spin the c-clip around and then tack it in place with the opening to the front. good idea.

I did read that thread about the thickness ...

- jack

Here is a shot I snapped last night. On the left is the way we cut them, on the right is a Warn full circle cut.

2stroke: Notice on the right where I ground the tack welds off when I took it apart. It takes a few minutes with a Dremel tool and the clips come right off. No, it's not field replaceable, but from what I've seen if the joint fails the shafts are usually junk. So, we carry assembled spares.. :)

thanks ok. my prob is when i break up front. i think the clips come off, and it spits out the cap. it ruins the axle shafts. the u-joint usually isnt broke, but shafts are junk. i have custom lenth shafts. soo it makes it a real. pain in the ass. cant afford warns and CTM`S yet. thanks for the help!

Originally posted by 2stroke
thanks ok. my prob is when i break up front. i think the clips come off,....

Look at the caps, are the bottoms broken off? On my Sami, I have broken several u-joints, but just barely. So, I get to see the starting point of the failure. What I have noticed is the bottom is broken off the cap, the clip is not 'spit'. I even tack welded the first clip (no attempt to full circle, just tacked in place), yet I still spit the caps when the joint began to fail.

What I determined is, with a normal c-clip, the stress on the cap is concentrated at the ends of the c-clip because the ends of the ears (where the body of the c-clip is) can bend easily and does nt help support the load. This make a shear that will strart to break the cap. The clip stays put, the bottom of the cap breaks off.

See pictures below for an example. Notice how the cap broke on opposite sides (where the ends of the clip was located).....

hmmmm... interesting point

so u think a full c-clip would cure this prob? does the axle get weaker when u machine it fo full circles? so u dont run full circle clips yet right?

hey okcrawler, how long have you had the mod'd shafts in place and what have been the overall results with your method ?

- jack

2stroke - I think the full circle helps, because it distributes the load on the cap's groove better.

morpheus - Jayson was the first one to do this. I was never a fan of the full circle because of how much material they cut off normally. Jayson ran his version at ProRocks in Disney. He still broke the axles, but never had a complete joint failure. In fact, he broke a 30 spine inner shaft (spicer), twisted the ears on the inner and outer, twisted the splines on the stub shaft, but DID NOT break a 5-760 U-joint! Destroyed a complete set of spicer shafts wihout breaking the u-joint...

That convinced me it was worth it! :) I do all mine like that, alloy or not, using the 760 joint. Unless you run alloy shafts, I don't feel the CTM joint is necessary....

what is a 760 joint? i run a 297-x?

Originally posted by 2stroke
what is a 760 joint? i run a 297-x?
5-760x is a little beefier than the 297. I plan to run those in my new warns untill I can afford CTM's next year

Originally posted by 2stroke
what is a 760 joint? i run a 297-x?

Spicer obsoleted the 5-297x. It has been replaced with the 5-760. It's a forged part and some other minor changes. It does appear to hold up a little better. If you want more info, search this board. There have been several posts on it... It is listed as the Spicer 'replacement' for the 297....