Hi all,
will be fitting yota diff centres to my RR either 4.3 or 4.5 lSD to rear ok but thoughts on LSD in front.
Thankyou.
Regards
Michael

no issues... but from what i understand there are different part no's for front vs rear toy LS diffs. this has to doo with the tightness of the clutches (so im told) and if you put a rear in the front you would notice it more, because it is a more aggressive LSD.

Originally posted by Michael Rangie
Hi all,
will be fitting yota diff centres to my RR either 4.3 or 4.5 lSD to rear ok but thoughts on LSD in front.
Thankyou.
Regards
Michael

Just out of curiosity ,why not just bung two complete diffs from an 80 series coil sprung in .Some of these came with fulltime 4x4 ,so the front CV's will take it .Strikes me as being easier than fawking with axels etc .Its not as if Toyota diffs are bloody rare in Victoria .If its the fab/welding that bothers you ,I'm sure that you know somebody with a liking for VB that can be bribed .Just cut the old crap off your diffs and reweld to the new ones .At least when you break something ,you can buy the crap anywhere in Oz ,IE -Tanami track -as the Alice is the closest Toyota dealer ,no problem.Curious as to your thinking on this .
The old man bought a set of those Hankook M/T ,and reckons they do a good job .

Originally posted by Michael Rangie
Hi all,
will be fitting yota diff centres to my RR either 4.3 or 4.5 lSD to rear ok but thoughts on LSD in front.
Thankyou.
Regards
Michael

Im doing this exact same thing. Was going to happen this week but hopefully I will get it done next week.

Ill be sure to let you know how it goes.

Sam

How would twin Lsd's behave on a slippery surfaces like snow,ice and loose gravel with your centre diff locked?

I know with a rear LSD it will kick sideways but with Twins ???

Maybe you will know who if following you without using a Mirror!

Chevrangie,
Yes it may be interesting but then yota had them std in the front of some.
If they appear to be unsafe then will remove. But hopefully they will be ok.
Michael.
p/s Sam looks like having his running first so he may be aqble to give us an idea shortly.

Originally posted by fugly 2


Just out of curiosity ,why not just bung two complete diffs from an 80 series coil sprung in .Some of these came with fulltime 4x4 ,so the front CV's will take it .Strikes me as being easier than fawking with axels etc .Its not as if Toyota diffs are bloody rare in Victoria .If its the fab/welding that bothers you ,I'm sure that you know somebody with a liking for VB that can be bribed .Just cut the old crap off your diffs and reweld to the new ones .At least when you break something ,you can buy the crap anywhere in Oz ,IE -Tanami track -as the Alice is the closest Toyota dealer ,no problem.Curious as to your thinking on this .
The old man bought a set of those Hankook M/T ,and reckons they do a good job .

Fugly,

Just because I am curious, what does a set of fj80 axles go for complete (used in au $). They are OVER 1500.00 us for a used set here.

Cheers,

j

Originally posted by redrangie


Fugly,

Just because I am curious, what does a set of fj80 axles go for complete (used in au $). They are OVER 1500.00 us for a used set here.

Cheers,

j

Must have thought that I was flaming him .
As to price ,it depends on how desperate you are .With some patience and a bit of shopping around I would imagine that you'd pay about 1500Aus .The reason that I originally asked was because I see a lot of 60/80 and now 100 series Toyotas running 35" plus tyres without problems .Plus if you want you can upgade the Toyota axels at a latter date,so helping to spread the cost over time .My reasoning being that I know what a PITA a hybrid 4x4 can be when your trying to source parts when your away from home and I'd have thought (yes it hurts when I think) that using the whole diff would make life easier .


As an example ; you've got a week off work and have gone to Moab .The second day there you blow a diff .You strip it down to find that not only do you need a centre but one axle as well .With a complete Toyota diff you only have to source the parts from ONE place as apposed to two or more to get you mobile again.Spare me the "you should bring spares with you "as I agree but its not the point of my question .

:confused: Luke .

Only real reason is that there is less hassles with engineering.
Yota centres cost abot $600.00 for the pair.
Axles $500.00 front, $600.00 rear plus a couple hours work to redrill the housing.
All up about $2,000.00 gets upgraded diffs with the ratio I want.
To fit tyhe Yota housings would mean fabricating new mounts and all the dramas with Vic roads.
Cost wise this is reasonable as have spent heaps to date.
regards
Michael.

michael.


the LSD you are getting i had in the rear, rebuilt and then fitted to the front and ran a detroit in the rear, i never had a problem although it does pull either way like a LSD should, as for the clutch packs being different you will find that is the import ifs rear housing vrs the solid rear, the back are slightly larger but buy looking you couldnt tell the differance unless you were a pro.


NICK

Originally posted by Michael Rangie
Only real reason is that there is less hassles with engineering.
Yota centres cost abot $600.00 for the pair.
Axles $500.00 front, $600.00 rear plus a couple hours work to redrill the housing.
All up about $2,000.00 gets upgraded diffs with the ratio I want.
To fit tyhe Yota housings would mean fabricating new mounts and all the dramas with Vic roads.
Cost wise this is reasonable as have spent heaps to date.
regards
Michael.


Thanks ,now I understand your reasoning .
You went to all the trouble of fitting a Commodore motor/fuel injection etc and got it engineered by the R.T.A. and your saying that the Toyota diff swap would be a PITA to engineer ? The welding shouldn't be a hassle ,but getting the paperwork for the brakes could be a pain .To stay legal in Vic (from memory) you have to get your 35" tyres engineered as well .Something about no bigger than 1"? taller/wider than standard .I know its being anal about the tyres but your insurance will be void without eng' .Your probably aware of all this crap but I thought that I'd mention it any way .Its been some time since I lived there last .
For my application ,strength is not the issue ,but the gearing options would be nice .Being a tight assed series owner I'll live with what I have .FYI the price of a 3.54 rover centre up here is about 300/350 ,so they work out pretty even .

Luke .

Originally posted by fugly 2



Thanks ,now I understand your reasoning .
You went to all the trouble of fitting a Commodore motor/fuel injection etc and got it engineered by the R.T.A. and your saying that the Toyota diff swap would be a PITA to engineer ? The welding shouldn't be a hassle ,but getting the paperwork for the brakes could be a pain .To stay legal in Vic (from memory) you have to get your 35" tyres engineered as well .Something about no bigger than 1"? taller/wider than standard .I know its being anal about the tyres but your insurance will be void without eng' .Your probably aware of all this crap but I thought that I'd mention it any way .Its been some time since I lived there last .
For my application ,strength is not the issue ,but the gearing options would be nice .Being a tight assed series owner I'll live with what I have .FYI the price of a 3.54 rover centre up here is about 300/350 ,so they work out pretty even .

Luke .

Geez, and we thought the mud-flap / fender flare rule was a pain in the arse.....

j

In vic we have to get every thing approved tyres, engine and lifts.
Fitting yota diff housings would require weling ne brackets to the diff or chassy depending on which arms you want to use. (no problem there run an engineering shop.) but have to get it through vic roads (who hate welding) which is possible just not worth the effort.
Motor transplant is fully bolt in so no hassles, same with suspension and body lift. wheels and tyres no problem engineers says all will be ok. RR diff housing with 110 cv's toy diff centres and jacmac axles will quite sufficent. R&P wont break but centre may with some abuse will just fit jacmac locking centre to toy housing.
regards
Michael.

off the topic, but what have you done with your suspension michael?

any cutting welding?



NICK

Not much so far: just raised springs fitted std rear springs to front and replaced the rears with 220lb x17 inch to rear this gives aprox 50mm lift.
Will be ftting 22x18inch in rear and matching to front aprox 65mm lift.
Rear arms: I want into install longer (25mm) and cranked (65mm) types, either purchased or will fab rear from dom tube, also spacer block matching lift and relocation to a frame which I will make. (Boge self leveling will be removed.)

Front: This where it may get interesting with Vic roads, I want to increase the length again by aprox 25-30mm and crank them 65mm there by returning front end geometry to std spec. Sams holey bushes sound good to I will be going with that. Cranking Std arms is Ok as the arms are made of fairly soft material and dont apear to suffer from heating and bending they just get shorter. (to short). Options fab new ones, extend by cut and shut, extend buy extending the threaded end with machined extentions screwed on. (cut and shut similar to rover tym seems the easiest.) Vic raods may have other ideas.

Once Suspension is how I want it I will finalise drive shafts lengths and configuration.
Regards
Michael.