I've been on pirate for a few years and finally kicked down the twenty bucks for the shiny red star. I started crusing this site after I bought my first heep, literally, a 1951 CJ3A. It came with a frame, tub, running gear and vin plate. Oh yeah, it also came with a 3B windshield frame :shaking:.

I started this thread so that hopefully someone will follow along with my build, and maybe be able to answer any stupid questions I might have. Hence, the posting in the Non-Hardcore section. After all, this is my first build, and I'm probably going to have the inevitable stupid question or two.

Now I haven't been sitting on my hands for the almost five years since I bought it. I had one attempt at getting this thing ready for the trail. Unfortunately it was all wrong. I should have done more reading on this site before wrenching aimlessly. Here it is halfway through the first attempt, and the point in time when I figured out how screwed up I really was.

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So now it's time for the next attempt, Jeep 2.0. This came about after I saw a guy on the Rubicon with a stretched 3A. Here's the current plans;
New frame made of 2x4 and 2x3 .120 wall tubing, stretched 8 inches in the cab area
YJ springs front and rear
Narrowed 44 up front
Stock 44 rear with full floater kit & discs
Buick 231
Ford T18
Dana 18
Overdrive unit
35s

And some pics of my work so far to make good use of that red star

The start of the frame, 2x4 center rails with 2x3 front rails
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2x3 rear rails on
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Each joint got a strap top and bottom, as well as side plates. Can't say it is original, this design was "borrowed" from another thread on pirate. I told you I did some reading.
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My new used YJ front springs, cleaned up and ready to go (purchased on Pirate classifieds).
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The other reason for this thread is to keep me motivated. I'll admit that I did attempt to sell this pile of parts in my garage in the past, obviously with no luck. So now I am gung ho again. Let's see how far this attempt goes.

As a red star rookie, I just realized that I maxed out my attachments for this post. More to follow.

Made the front and rear bumpers, got the frame raills welded to them and hung the front springs.

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That's all for now. Plans for next weekend are to hang the new used rear YJ springs (also purchased from Pirate classifieds, thanks Slickrock). If Little League doesn't take up too much of the weekend, I may get the new spring perches welded on the rear axle housing and hang that too.

I wanna see ow this comes out (subscribed).....I really want to build a flatty...just need to find some poor sap whose dad left it sitting under a tree somewhere

looks awesome.. I will be following this build.. food or thought when I go to restore mine..

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/CJ3a2.jpg

Nice work. That metal would be 4 different shades of rust down here if left out for a day. :D
I'll be keeping an eye on this.

nice work. my frame looks like that to a t. I stretched my flatty 12" in the door, which i think is perfect. I wish I stretched the rear of the tub 6" as well to gain more rooom. thats my project next year. take lots of pics.

www.bprfabs.com

Cool :)

I'm getting ready to post up my CJ3b build (http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=112505)over in the other forum.

I wish I coudl stretch my tub 12" in the cargo area, so I could get a back seat. I've got a fiberglass tub though, the steel ones are all rusted out up here. Maybe one day I'll get brave and try to stretch the glass one..

Thanks for the link rckme52. I guess my measurements/guesstimations were right on. I am thinking the new wheelbase will end up at 96". With yours stretched 12", coming in at 100", seems my estimate is right on. I like the cut on your rear wheel wells, might have to "borrow" that idea too.

I have to say I was surprised at the lack of input regarding the current scheduled motor/trans/t-case. I am planning on running this setup mainly because of the cost. Motor was free, just had to get it out a guy's yard for him, trans cost me a tewlver of Guiness and the Dana 18 came with the heep. I know this setup will cost me more on the other end with the required adapters.

Any input welcome.

Thanks for leaving my welds alone, and the kind words, maybe this will keep me motivated this time around.

I started my 47 Willy's frame about two weeks ago, and it looks like we have the same idea........

I didn't specify before, the plan also includes 5.38 gears. I am currently on the fence about a low gear kit for the t-case, as it is currently in pieces on the workbench. Is it necessary with 5.38s and the T-18 (with granny low) and 35s. I have some time to decide as the tub work is next up after hanging the axles.

What's your thoughts?

I didn't specify before, the plan also includes 5.38 gears. I am currently on the fence about a low gear kit for the t-case, as it is currently in pieces on the workbench. Is it necessary with 5.38s and the T-18 (with granny low) and 35s. I have some time to decide as the tub work is next up after hanging the axles.

What's your thoughts?

Well, overall, its a nice basic drivetrain for a flatty. And its usually one of the easier things to swap out later if you want to go a different route. What flywheel are you using for the Buick? The old 225 Buicks in Jeeps had a very heavy flywheel that stored a lot of inertia.

I don't see that you'll be needing to go lower with the T-case gears, at least to start. One less thing to worry about. You'll be at 83:1 crawl, with only 35s and a motor that chugs decently at low rpm. With only 35s on narrow track axles, that would be more than enough for anything around me.

IMO, things like that are upgrades you can do later. Much better to keep motivated and get the Jeep driveable. I know where you are at, though, I'm at the same point. When its just parts on the floor, its far too easy to go "hmm, what if I used xxxx, instead of yyyy"..

for giggles, a different, but similar option, for drivetrain, would be to get a 4.3 chevy, SM465, and then adapt that to your Dana 18. Both the T18 and SM465 are basically 13" long (plus bellhousing), when adapter to the Dana 18. The SM465 would not need any adapters or hard to find parts to bolt up to the chevy V6. Buicks never came in manual trans versions, other than the jeeps, so you'll have money into getting the correct bellhousing and flywheel.

4.3's are extremely plentiful, and TBI versions are a very easy way to get fuel injection(very basic wiring, and low fuel pressure requirements), or you can go with a carb easily enough.

But either option would be good. I have no experience with the buick in a Jeep, but I've always heard good about them. 4.3's have been good to me in light jeeps. I've got a 4.3 TBI / SM465 / Dana 300 in the CJ3b going together.

I stretched my body 7" in the door and 5" between the door and rear fenderwell. Also 3" in the hood. I'm right around 100". I also made the frame a little wider to help with motor fitment. Your drivetrain sounds good though.

Nice start! I have a 1942 CJ2A built similarly except with a chevy 350. This looks like it's gona be a fun project. I'm in!

Hell of a good start:D. What steering box are you going to use? Looking forward to seeing it mounted.

I didn't specify before, the plan also includes 5.38 gears. I am currently on the fence about a low gear kit for the t-case, as it is currently in pieces on the workbench. Is it necessary with 5.38s and the T-18 (with granny low) and 35s. I have some time to decide as the tub work is next up after hanging the axles.

What's your thoughts?


I have a 360/t18/d18 in mine with 5.38s and 36s. Its geared plenty low for everything around this area, I actually use second gear as much as first.

I have an SM420 with the granny low and 4.88's and 1st gear is pretty low, but could be lower for crawling. I think something close to 5.XX is a good R&P ratio. My brother has the tera low kit in his tcase and I can't say its worth it really unless you find a good price on one. The 5.38's and the t-18 should be plenty for most situations. If your going hardcore then I would say otherwise.

If you want to calculate your gear ratio for various setups check out this site (http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html).

Mark, as for the steering box, I don't know yet, I'm not there yet. Some reading has suggested a Toyota box , yet others suggest a Chevy box. I am not committed to anything at this point, mainly because there isn't a steering box laying in the corner of the garage, unlike the motor/trans/t-case issue. Any comments or suggestions on one over the other, or any I haven't considered would be great.
Thanks

I'm running a camaro box, but i think a waggy box would be better for a slower ratio. mine is 2.75 turns lock to lock, it gets kinda squirrelly in the loose stuff under hard throttle.

Nice frame !....wich is the distance between center to center of the frame rails ??
I´m in the process of building a chassis for my Flatty, and I was wondering if I just go with 31,5" ctr/ctr wich is the distance between spring pads of the waggy axles.

One issue you might have with a Toyota steering box, is that it might 'look' bad, because it sticks up quite a bit from the frame rails. On mine, I've got my front axle forward a little. It lines up with the + sign on the frame below. To put the axle there, the steering box is almost completely in front of the griil, sticknig up 4-6" above the rails. I can't run it there anyway, because the steering shaft would interfere with my air shocks. So i'll get some kind of saginaw box inside the rails.

http://webpages.charter.net/haggar1850/build/frontaxle3.jpg

Nice frame !....wich is the distance between center to center of the frame rails ??
I´m in the process of building a chassis for my Flatty, and I was wondering if I just go with 31,5" ctr/ctr wich is the distance between spring pads of the waggy axles.

I built mine 29 1/4" ctr-ctr, to match my toyota axles (originally was going leafs, I've since moved on). So with 2" wide rails, I'm 31.25" wide. If you are planning to ever be in the 37"+ tire range, I think you would be hitting the frame with waggie axles even at this width (I widened my front axle to 61" wms to get more steering and room for shocks). 33.5" wide would probably be limiting steering angle even on 35s.

My exhaust can easily dump inside the rails with my 27.25" inside-inside dimension. I just need a different drivers side manifold that dumps further back, instead of down.

http://webpages.charter.net/haggar1850/build/exhaust.jpg

If you are planning to ever be in the 37"+ tire range, I think you would be hitting the frame with waggie axles even at this width (I widened my front axle to 61" wms to get more steering and room for shocks). 33.5" wide would probably be limiting steering angle even on 35s.


Mmm, good point....I´ll be running 36x13,5 Iroks on 10" Allieds (3,75" BS).

The frame was built to stock width, 29 1/4" outside to outside. With my math skills, with 2" wide rails, ctr to ctr is 27 1/4". I would have liked to go a little wider however the front axle housing was already narrowed for the stock frame. One of those things from the first attempt that I have to live with, and build around.

thats exactly how i built my frame.....stock flatty width(29.25), stretched for WB, and outboarded the front perches to match my full width chevy 60.

You could always go with a Scout steering box too.

I bought a waggy box for my 3a. The wagoneer I have right now turns so easy it just made sence to go that route.

Is it installed yet. If so, how's it working out, any pics of it installed?

Fell behind a little on the questions. I am planning to run the 225 flywheel on the 231, mainly due to the extra weight, and from what I've gathered through my reading, lower idle rpm without stalling. I've also learned there is a balancing issue with this flywheel on the 231. If anyone has a link to that info handy could you drop it in here for me. I need to start a file with everything I've read so I don't have to go searching for all this info again.

I'm getting a little ahead of myself here but I was doing a little research on the Novak site. Good news, seems a little bit of modification work to the t-18 mounting tabs, and $50 bucks worth of parts (machined retainer and pilot bushing) and I can marry these two. The Novak site says this can be done with almost any GM bellhousing. I'm going to go out on a limb and say they are referring to the BOP bolt pattern GM bellhousing. Does anyone know for sure? I know, probably another stupid question, but I figured I'd ask here before calling them. I know someone out there has done this, how did it work out?

yes BOP is for Buick-Olds-Pontiac bellhousing bolt pattern which you will need.

Here is an option that I have used and liked.

I ran a 4.1 liter BUICK V6 in my last project. It was found in 80-84 RWD cars. Decent power, and cheap.

My opinion on gearing is that you will be fine. I'd run what you have.

I'm probably dating myself here, but I remember when what you are setting up was a seriously upgraded running gear set-up.

If you don't pound it in rocks, and run 40's you will be more than fine.

Looks good. ROB

Is it installed yet. If so, how's it working out, any pics of it installed?

It's not installed yet. I've been thinking about moving the front axle forward.

I got the rear hangers welded on yesterday. I didn't take any pictures because they look just like the fronts, except they're on the rear. I spent most of today trying to get the stock main eye bushings out of the rear springs. PB Blaster, WD-40, hacksaw, sawzall and a big ass hammer, wasn't happening. Then I got smart and searched the tech section. Seems others have had the same problems. The cure was drilling out the rubber, driving the sleeve out, then taking the sawzall to the outer sleeve. Kind of wish I had done this reading early this morning, then I would not have wasted an entire day in the garage :shaking:.

Next on the agenda is swapping the axle housings off the old frame and hanging them on the new frame. Probably not going to happen this weekend due to a visitor coming into town. Hopefully I have some new pics the next weekend.

I'm getting a little ahead of myself here but I was doing a little research on the Novak site. Good news, seems a little bit of modification work to the t-18 mounting tabs, and $50 bucks worth of parts (machined retainer and pilot bushing) and I can marry these two. The Novak site says this can be done with almost any GM bellhousing. I'm going to go out on a limb and say they are referring to the BOP bolt pattern GM bellhousing. Does anyone know for sure? I know, probably another stupid question, but I figured I'd ask here before calling them. I know someone out there has done this, how did it work out?

Its a really good set-up, because its so short...T-18 shifts way nicer then the SM420 I now used with my D60/14bt/D300 swap. Had T-18/D18/OD set-up in my Flattie for 10 years. Worked great! You can use any of the "old size" bellhousings.Like 4 9/16??? not the new bigger hole ones.The only issue is the bottom passenger side trans bolt. Won't line up. But you can put a little aluminum plate on the inside and weld and tap it or just forget it. Or you could use the cast iron open bottom one and make a new hole. Novaks instructions are easy.
Just a note: with the 5:38s and 35s you'll need that OD. :smokin:

Had a few extra minutes last night so I shot the frame with primer. It came out so good I almost don't want to paint it. I plan to get this thing all together in primer, run it for a while to work out the kinks, then disassemble and make it pretty the following winter (as pretty as Krylon can be). Hopefully I am talking about the winter of '09 and not any later, life and funds will be the deciding factor on that.

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Got some more work done today. Our visitor went out with my wife and they left me alone at home. Guess what I did.

New perches on the rear housing

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Rear housing hung

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Actually have a rolling chassis.

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Looks like a pretty good wheelbase for a 3a. I don't know what happened to the rear of the frame in this picture. The rear frame rails are a little off, about 1/8", but not nearly as off as they appear in the pic, trick photography I guess.

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Well it's somewhat of a roller. There is still some work to be done on the front axle housing, and it's just sitting under the springs right now, I still have to buy some spring plates. I mainly wanted to see what the height looked like after I got the rear axle mounted. It looked kinda tall at that point, and actually stilll does look taller than I thought it was going to be.

I'm hoping to lose at least two inches when everything is back on. I can push it down about an inch just be leaning on it, but there's still plenty of arch left in the springs.

The wheelbase came out at about 95 inches. I'm thinking I may pick up the missing inch once the springs flatten out.

Looking good. Hey whats the WMS-WMS on the rear axle?

How long did you end up, bumper to bumper?

Yeah, looking at your shackles, it'll flatten out and gain you 1-2" of wheelbase.

Looks great! I think I'd have run out and thrown the body on just to look at it.

WMS
It's a stock 44 out of the 3a. I don't know the exact measurements. Some rough measuring with a tape and I came up with 50". I narrowed the front to match (a while ago) with an extra 1 1/4" on each side. I'm going to add wheels spacers to the rear later.

Length
bumper to bumper - 134 1/2"

Tub
It's such a mess that I didn't want to make the frame look bad. I'll wait till I hack it up, have it blasted, stretch it and prime it before I put it back on. When I bought this thing the entire tub had 1/8" layer of bondo on it (and that's no exagerration, 1/4" in some areas). After stripping it I found out why. There was some craptastic body repairs going on.

I'm not sure what this poor Jeep went through in its previous life. The firewall was notched for a SBC. I think it was cut with a stick of dynamite. The rest of the body repair matched in quality. Big job coming up next on this tub.

Came up pretty nice :beer:
I´m following your thread day by day, cause I´m starting a very similar project....
So far, I´m working on the Chasis....

http://www.twistedandes.com/foro/attachment.php?attachmentid=55277&stc=1&d=1238448507

Specs are:
MB tub
LM7 (Vortec 5.3), LS1 Intake, LS6 cam.
TH350
Dana 300
Waggy Dana 44´s (both with ARB's)
36" Iroks+Allieds
I have all componets already bought, so now it´s time to build :smokin:

I´ll start a thread in Pirate once I have more things done....for now, you can check the build at:

http://www.twistedandes.com/foro/showthread.php?t=55079

Is that stock length, or did you put any stretch in it?

Checked out that link, looks like pirate chilean style. Same exact layout, colors and :flipoff2:'s.

Maybe if I thought about bracing my frame with some angle iron like you I wouldn't have that 1/8" issue in the rear.

Is that stock length, or did you put any stretch in it?
Checked out that link, looks like pirate chilean style. Same exact layout, colors and :flipoff2:'s.
Maybe if I thought about bracing my frame with some angle iron like you I wouldn't have that 1/8" issue in the rear.

No, is not the stock lenght for now. I´ll cut the front frame rails after I have decide the position of the steering box and the winch mount.
My idea is to leave the tub untuched....as original as possible.
However, I´ll try to reach 88-89" of WB for better handling. For that, Im thinking on moving the rear axle app 3" and the front 5-6" forward.

Looks like you've got a great start! Maybe this thread will get me off my ass and fix mine :D

any updates on this thread? I am getting ready to make a frame for my cj2 and stretch the body in the door area.

Thanks,
Rodney

Unfortunately, no updates.

Next step is STILL the bodywork, which you may be able to tell does not excite me that much. But the weather is starting to turn so maybe I'll be trapped in the garage for a while. Here's hoping I have an update soon.

Thanks for the interest, it has motivated me to get started again.

Unfortunately, no updates.

Next step is STILL the bodywork, which you may be able to tell does not excite me that much. But the weather is starting to turn so maybe I'll be trapped in the garage for a while. Here's hoping I have an update soon.

Thanks for the interest, it has motivated me to get started again.

Thats a good thing about doing a build thread. Lookin really good, on those YJ fronts, any reason why you opted non-shackle reversal? And what wheel base are you looking at, and how much did you gain by putting the leaf hangers outside the bumper?

I did a lot of reading on the pros and cons of shackle reversal. This is going to be driven on the street probably as much as on the trail (poor man's convertible for the summer). The readings that scared me into a conventional set-up where the one's that talked about the front end diving when braking. Plus I figured the guys at Jeep are better engineers than I, and they never put out a leaf sprung Jeep with a shackle reversal. I defered to their infinite wisdom, figured they might have known something I didn't know.

The wheelbase currently sits at 95". I hoping for 96" to 97" when everything is back together and all the weight is on the springs.

As for how much I gained with the spring hangers on the bumper, I think I gained 4" to 5".

and they never put out a leaf sprung Jeep with a shackle reversal.


WRONG! But not by much, they did have a factory shackle reversal on the M38A1....JFYI :flipoff2:

I did a lot of reading on the pros and cons of shackle reversal. This is going to be driven on the street probably as much as on the trail (poor man's convertible for the summer). The readings that scared me into a conventional set-up where the one's that talked about the front end diving when braking. Plus I figured the guys at Jeep are better engineers than I, and they never put out a leaf sprung Jeep with a shackle reversal. I defered to their infinite wisdom, figured they might have known something I didn't know.

The wheelbase currently sits at 95". I hoping for 96" to 97" when everything is back together and all the weight is on the springs.

As for how much I gained with the spring hangers on the bumper, I think I gained 4" to 5".


Very nice, doing a build myself and trying to gain ideas. I am running Yj's on my Willys and trying to figure out how I can gain roughly 1" on WB to better clear tires, I am thinking of un-doing thr shackle reversal, keeping the WB the same, thus the tire will collapse forward and clear the fender better.

Get to work on her, want to see er' finished.

Well, I'm back at it. Found a pretty good tub on the cheap, so it should cut the body work down a substantial amount and get me moving again. I'm taking it to the blaster on Friday so I know what I am really working with here. All I know is that it can't be any worse then the one I have so I'm happy about the find.

It is f***in' pouring rain here so I'm a little worried about getting the tub back without it flash rusting on me. We may get a little break on Friday afternoon so I might be able to get it home without any rain. The guy doing the stripping said he could primer it for me before I pick it up, but I don't know if I want to spend the extra $120 bucks for primer. Partly because I know I will have to grind a lot of it off for the strecth and repairs, but mainly because I'm a cheap bastard.

Any thoughts on this? Suggestions? Will it do any good to cover it for the ride home, about a twenty minute drive? If it starts to rust on the way home, what's the best way to get rid of it?

I plan to prime the areas I won't be working on when I get home.

Thanks for the help.

Where in gods name do you live? I don't think it will rust in twenty minutes. $120 is a lot to pay someone to primer a tub. I got red oxide primer for my MB and it's only running me $30 a gallon.

I say wrap a tarp around it good and tight, and hell if your that worried about it get some of that sticky painters plastic and wrap the sucker. I think it'll be fine, if it looks like it's going to rain than don't take it home.

Here is the tub the night before heading to the blaster

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Check out the fancy cutting work in the firewall, I'm guessing this was notched for a distributor

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Cleaned up tub back home and placed on the frame to see how I'm looking. There's definately some work to be done on this tub, but it is so much better than my other one, and for the 75 bucks I paid for the tub I'm willing to put the work into it.

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Part of the reason I spent the money to have this blasted was to find out what I was really working with. Imagine my surprise when I found this little gem of craftsmanship. Apparently both floor boards had started to rust out at some point (that's not the shocking part). Instead of cutting out the damaged areas and replacing, some craftsman took sheet metal, bent some crude flanges and spot welded the new sheet over the rusting metal. Now as if that were not bad enough, this person also siliconed the edges. I guess no water would get under the new metal if he did this, except maybe through the bottom where there is a HOLE:shaking: Really, check it out, you can't make this shit up.

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Here is the passenger side floor covering removed

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No worries though, I'm going to cut out the entire floor and start over since the bracing underneath is also rotted.

I have to admit, I am not a big fan of comp cut corners, especially on a flattie, but I don't think I have a choice here. What do you guys think?

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I have to admit, I am not a big fan of comp cut corners, especially on a flattie, but I don't think I have a choice here. What do you guys think?

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I think you do have a choice....it´s just a matter of where to cut...look my Flattie...my tire is as close as yours to the rear bumper...

http://www.twistedandes.com/foro/attachment.php?attachmentid=76740&stc=1&d=1260881881

The weather is the shits here, and duck season is over. Since it's still too shitty to golf, and I have a load of new metal, I guess there's only one thing to do, get back in the garage and start working. I have three days solid to work on the heap, minus a few hours on Saturday for a kid's basketball game. This is the weekend I split the tub in the door.

This brings me to my next question. I've seen stretches on PBB where the cut is made at a 45 (or so) degree angle. Is there a benefit to this, structurally speaking, or is this just to please the eye of said builder. Any thoughts welcomed, pics to follow

Sorry for the major delay, this may be the last:laughing:

No response over the weekend on whether to make the cut vertical or at an angle, so I just went for it. I decided to add some angle iron on both sides of the cut to prevent any twisting and keep things somewhat lined up.

Precut

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Made the cut, floors still in

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Got the floors out SIDE NOTE: Check out the new welding helmet. My old busted and I had to get me a new one. I wasn't crazy on the flames, but it was the only auto darkening helmet in the joint. Glad I got it though, I kinda dig the flames now

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Added some temporary bracing in the doors and marked the metal that had to go

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Cut the bad metal out (around the cut in the door, I know there is plenty more bad metal near where the fenders attach, but that is for another day) and threw the hood and grille on there to get a look at the overall length.

I know I said previously I was not a fan of comp cuts on flatties, however I am going to change my stance on this. After seeing the added length in the door with the comp cut and the front put on, I think things look pretty proportionate.

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The other day my wife came home with this and told me it was for the Jeep, guess she wants to see it get done too :laughing:

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Next step, bracing for the floor. Until then :flipoff2:

Looking good. I can appreciate the work you have "redone". The learning curve can be a pita, but thanks to the tech on pirate I'm redeeming myself. lol! I really like the comp cut. Came out nice. I did it to my '49 CJ3a. My wb is at 104" and the proportions aren't as nice as yours.

I'm still working on it...

I just re read this thread, seems my original estimated time line was a bit optomistic, to say the least. Hey, life gets in the way sometimes. But, I did start working on it again. Some things don't change though, I still hate body work. Started with the driver's side. Weld in the fresh metal, throw some mud on it, sand it until I get bored and say "close enough".

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You may have noticed there was not a lot of body work going on in the lower portion of the body. That's cause I had a great idea, at least I thought it was great. Did I mention I hate body work? Perfect, take some 12 gauge flat steel and make body armor to go along the lower portion of the cab and around the wheel well to attach to the original rear corner body armor. I figured I gained some additional protection for the body and eliminated over half the body work. Win, win. Here's what I ended up with.

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I know I said I was going to leave this thing in primer until I had it running and worked out the bugs. You know what, I had a can of Krylon on the workbench and I wanted to see what it was going to look like. I also had to put the speakers in the dash and grab a gauge at the auto parts store to see how she was shaping up.

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I'm diggin it so far. Maybe this will keep me moving. Next is the same treatment for the passenger side.

The front end is off. The hood, grille and fenders will be heading to the sand blaster soon. When they come back, body work :flipoff2:, mount em and start fitting the drivetrain. Gotta collect some parts in the meantime.

Any updates?

We bought a vacation house in October, and it's more of a fixer than the Jeep. So...the wife has informed me the house is a priority. One day, one day this thing will be running.

We bought a vacation house in October, and it's more of a fixer than the Jeep. So...the wife has informed me the house is a priority. One day, one day this thing will be running.
Well, after some soul searching...it's official. I'm done. This thing is for sale. Anyone interested, $1700. I know this isn't the sale thread, I'll get it there soon.

Sold it. She found herself to a new home last night, so no more updates (not that there were many as of late). I'll remove this post in a week or so. If anyone wants pictures for reference, snag em now.

Thanks for the interest in the past.

What kind of tires do you have on it?

35x12.50r15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on 15x10 Cragar steel wheels