So, whats the deal ? Cut the knuckles off the sami front and cut the Sidekick tubes down to size , slide it in and weld 'er up ?

Originally posted by Titanium
So, whats the deal ? Cut the knuckles off the sami front and cut the Sidekick tubes down to size , slide it in and weld 'er up ?

And what is the pnt what are you gaining if you want the gears that bad just swap the gears.:D also the axles Housing is aluminum that would be alot of jb weld

Originally posted by Rockrat


if you want the gears that bad just swap the gears.:D also the axles Housing is aluminum

Rockrat, ur misunderstanding me, i want the bigger r&p up front IN A SAMI , never said anything bout the aluminum housing, any aluminum goes into my aluminum pile out back :eek:

you will have larger r/p but you will still have the $h!tty axels that you will break if you havent all ready just a thought before you do all that work for in my mind not much



:massey:

Originally posted by moto261
you will have larger r/p but you will still have the $h!tty axels that you will break if you havent all ready just a thought before you do all that work for in my mind not much


But if i buy the heavy duty birfields from brent at TT, i'll have heavier birfs and a bigger r&p up front. So, that said, does anyone have ADVICE , like first hand experience ? Not really interested in opinions :flipoff2: , thanx

ok i did a hybrid in the rear. should be similair for the front. you need to weld the housing so that the bigger and stronger kick rear 3rd will fit...

the main problem for a hybrid front will be the splines, they are different front and rear. so you will need some custom front splines which will be very expensive.

Originally posted by peci


the main problem for a hybrid front will be the splines, they are different front and rear. so you will need some custom front splines which will be very expensive.

The heavy duty birfield axles from Trail Tough use side gears from a Sami or Kick rear. Thats the spline problem taken care of. Where do i cut and where do i join ? Who has done this ? Im thinkin grind the weld off the knuckle (like when you turn your pinion and reweld it.) and cut the rear Kick axle, slide the knuckles on the end and weld it back up. So......... Anyone ???

Im still waiting..................

what did you end up doing on this? I am going to eventually cut down a sidekick rear so it will be offset for my SJ. I am going to match it with a sammy front end and kick 3rd member. I have a set of sammy rear axles - guess I could build some stronger fronts with a set of rear sidegears and some subaru CV joint parts.:confused:

first off, why ya goin though all this hell for 26 spline axles? Front sidekick 3rds bolt into the samurai front housing if you just want the gears. BTW, the sidekick 3rds are made of alum.

yes i have the same mod in mind also ive already choped the s/k axel houseing, but i have too rebuild my front axel houseing spare
before i can proceed ,im running the houseing i wanna chop up....
but thats ok, kuz i still gotta build a jig/fixture to hold every thing in its proper place....i wanna have pinion angle ,caster angel, and
spring perches done all in the same operation......ive got a big i-beam that ill use for a table,then ill try bolting brackets too the lower knuckle,this will be welded to the table later....i want to weld two blocks about 6-8 inches high from the table and clamp the stock spring pads to them for a positive location and then weld my knuckle brackets down.....then measure the angle of the mounting surface for the third member and calculate how much more angle is needed and just twist the center section to where ever i need it before i weld it up.......ok everybody can flame me now ive got my asbestos underwear on......rabidray

fawkit cut out all that work and put toyota or d44s under it thats probably where you are going to end up anyway:flipoff2:

Originally posted by godzuki
fawkit cut out all that work and put toyota or d44s under it thats probably where you are going to end up anyway:flipoff2:
I know you didn't want opinions but I don't listen very well. If you are going to do all of that work you could put the yota axles under there with a lot less modifications and end up with a lot stronger axle. But you didn't want an opinion!:flipoff2: :D :D :flipoff2:

Fawkin guys........ this is zook #3. Zook #1 is stock with gears locker and 33's. Zook #2 is LWB- DESTINED TO TOYOTA DIFFS. #3 is runnin on 34's and i just need that little bit of xtra beef for the front end, rearend is a kick diff with coils. Back to square 1. So any one have experience here or are you all beyond that ? I did the fawkin search and got nothin , posted here and all i got was a bunch of opinions im well aware of. All im lookin for is a beefier front end and bein joe fawkin fabricator, not that much work especially if i had some insight. I know this has been done many times. Now......... anyone here done this ? :rolleyes:

hey dont get so upset. i plan on doing this very thing, but i have some other stuff getting in the way{takeing my time}no i dint like these other projects, but thats life , i gotta do it wheather i want to or not.i agree with you this is a worth while project,and i like the ideal of staying with suzuki parts whenever whereever possible.....plus i beleive a hybred front will be lighter and stronger than the yota with the t.t axel birf combo....rabidray

Originally posted by Titanium
Fawkin guys........ this is zook #3. Zook #1 is stock with gears locker and 33's. Zook #2 is LWB- DESTINED TO TOYOTA DIFFS. #3 is runnin on 34's and i just need that little bit of xtra beef for the front end, rearend is a kick diff with coils. Back to square 1. So any one have experience here or are you all beyond that ? I did the fawkin search and got nothin , posted here and all i got was a bunch of opinions im well aware of. All im lookin for is a beefier front end and bein joe fawkin fabricator, not that much work especially if i had some insight. I know this has been done many times. Now......... anyone here done this ? :rolleyes:

Tony, Tony, tone!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure if you contacted Pete Minard, Andy Vatcher, or Mike Legace from OVO. ( SuziCrazy)
They can explain the fineer details to you. I still think its alot of work for little gain. The weak point will still be the shaft. But I know you didn't want my opinion either :D

Originally posted by rabidray
hey dont get so upset. i agree with you this is a worth while project,and i like the ideal of staying with suzuki parts whenever whereever possible.....plus i beleive a hybred front will be lighter and stronger than the yota with the t.t axel birf combo....rabidray

Me ok dude :D It will defintitely lighter than a toy diff but i doubt stronger, strong enough tho to pull it out once in a while and shit kick it. Not lookin for it to be "the one" just a good beatable POS. John i do remember Andy and thats about it, lol, and i know he isnt online. I'll check out ovo.ca see what the boys have to say cuz i aint gettin much here..... but opinions :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

PM me and I will give you some numbers

bullshit it aint going to be strong enough with suzuki axels especialy with 34s i dont care how big the pinion is:flipoff2:

Originally posted by godzuki
bullshit it aint going to be strong enough with suzuki axels especialy with 34s i dont care how big the pinion is:flipoff2:

Fawkin guys..... u ever wheeled in Canada ? Not like wheelin in the USA. Usually where theres rock, there's mud, and where theres no mud on the rocks, there's moss, so traction on the rocks up here isnt as severe as the traction you guys get on dry rock, plus it'll be open diff up front. :flipoff2:

I think it's a swell idea, check out the price and availability of the TT axle shafts first though.

If I had a had a kick housing I'd measure the tube diameters, but would the "plugs" that the sami knuckle balls mount to come out if you cut the weld full circle
then cut down the rear kick housing, remove the rear wheel bearing thing on the side you didn't cut, pop the sam fronts in and weld up? Shafts are custom anyways, could spec the length.
Ken

Thats pretty much what im hopin for, didnt know the axles came custom, a bonus if using a kick rear, thanx for tellin me :D

Like I said, call TT before getting too far into it. They can answer without BS.
Ken

Originally posted by Titanium


Fawkin guys..... u ever wheeled in Canada ? Not like wheelin in the USA. Usually where theres rock, there's mud, and where theres no mud on the rocks, there's moss, so traction on the rocks up here isnt as severe as the traction you guys get on dry rock, plus it'll be open diff up front. :flipoff2:

How many times have you broken the front R+P? I beat the hell out of my zuk with 33" TSL Thornbirds (read: heavy!) on the stock open diff front and never broke anything. Once you said you're gonna run open diff, I say foget about wasting you rmoney on all this bootiefab stuff, just run the stock axle. Use birf rings if you're really concerned. Sure all these Cali guys will say you'll break, but like you said, traction is different in the East or North.

Originally posted by SamuraiChris


How many times have you broken the front R+P? I beat the hell out of my zuk with 33" TSL Thornbirds (read: heavy!) on the stock open diff front and never broke anything. Once you said you're gonna run open diff, I say foget about wasting you rmoney on all this bootiefab stuff, just run the stock axle. Use birf rings if you're really concerned. Sure all these Cali guys will say you'll break, but like you said, traction is different in the East or North.

I tend to agree here Tony. I have never broken a front axle or ring gear for that matter open.

Originally posted by mudlite


I tend to agree here Tony. I have never broken a front axle or ring gear for that matter open.

Bang, boom, too much air, land.... CRUNCH! owwww....... thats how it happened. Ive never broke more than a u-joint with my 31's. Should maybe go back to 31's, my rig rocks on the boggers but it's like i had to go to discipline school to stay in one piece, so far so good (conquered Pinion Pass after a blown bead) but im still waitin for snappage.

What do you have for gears?

Originally posted by mudlite
What do you have for gears?

4.62's in the one i had at Suzican and 5.13's in the one i wanna do this mod to.

I would run 4.16 t-case. that will solve most of your troubles.
It changes the way you wheel completely :-0

Which truck is this for?

Originally posted by mudlite
Which truck is this for?

Abuse, mainly, lol.......

NO!!!!! not what are you doing with this truck?


Which truck are you doing this MOD too:rolleyes:


All you need for pinion pass is gearing. All the Zuks were just running out of steam. Get the 4 to 1 and you'll be golden.;)

check out spider trax's new front end with axel's with kick third.

Did you get any further info on this?

I'm wondering if there is a better source of 26 spline front shafts? TT has them for ~$620USD but that is way too spendy for us Canucks to get across the border.

r@m

Originally posted by Root Moose


I'm wondering if there is a better source of 26 spline front shafts? TT has them for ~$620USD but that is way too spendy for us Canucks to get across the border.




I believe Calmini has their 26 spline inner shafts available now.
Combine these with some Birf rings and you should be able to
increase strength.

Originally posted by Titanium


Fawkin guys..... u ever wheeled in Canada ? Not like wheelin in the USA. Usually where theres rock, there's mud, and where theres no mud on the rocks, there's moss, so traction on the rocks up here isnt as severe as the traction you guys get on dry rock, plus it'll be open diff up front. :flipoff2:

with an open diff get birfield rings and swap the small 5.13 r/p in the the cast iron sammi housing and call it good you wont have the odds of breaking it with out a locker then call it good!!!!!

Just a suggestion................I can't remember if it's a # 3 or #5 pipe cutter.......But it can be used to cut the knuckles free from the axle tube in a very short time and leave a very smooth and clean surface to reattach the knuckles. By the way remember to take your time and cut just to the "inner" tube and NOT all the way through. Now that's a music, that a polka!!

I run Toyota but have plenty of Kick stuff also. The problem I see is the slope next to the pumpkin is close to the Toyota and makes the pass. side perch hard to deal with maybe, you might look into that.

MuddMachine

e-mail me at mikelagace @ rogers.com and I'll give you all the info you need... seems like no one else around here has ANY insight on what they are doing!! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :D