I put this together today.
M.O.R.E. Anti Wrap bar.
Whoever built the rig used 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 tube to space the tranny mount / skid pan, so I picked up some 1 1/2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing and extended them out to bolt the 1x3x11ga cross.
Bolted the forward mount and going to weld the axle plates tomorrow.
Any opinions are welcome. Is it not beefy enough? Do I need to weld the 1x3 to the 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 or scrap it all together?
First time building something like this. 87 Wrangler
Thanks
Pay no attention to the feeble attempt at the traction bars under the springs......Not me at all.
Shot of the bar and mount
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/thetastelingers/autos/big%20red/DSCN0100.jpg
Shot of the cross bar
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/thetastelingers/autos/big%20red/DSCN0101.jpg
Side shot
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/thetastelingers/autos/big%20red/DSCN0102.jpg

axle wrap bar might work but your driveshaft angle SUCKS:flipoff2:

i gotta say i am no expert on leaf springs but they are simple enough that i can assess the damage. if you have an antiwrap and traction bars thats not going to solve your problem. also from what i have read is an antiwrap bar is a band aid. but you can say i am wrong. i think you might have to large of a lift with out long enough springs. also what size are your shackles. maybe a smaller shackle would help your issue. also looking at your traction bars do you have spring perches or just the traction bars. are the welded to the housing? i know this is a dumb question but sometimes the hardest solutions have the dumbest answers. i would ditch the traction bars first before you mess with setting up you antiwrap bar. it looks like your traction bar is giving you 2 inches of lift the wrong way (same as lift blocks) also i would like to see some pics of your pinion angles. good luck and hope i helped a little

Looks like it will solve the problem it is marketed for. I assume the traction bars are short term. Check out the JB Conversions Super Short Slip Yoke Eliminator for that drive shaft issue. Have fun - run it hard till it breaks.

axle wrap bar might work but your driveshaft angle sucks:flipoff2:

x2

I agree the driveshaft angle sux. I will eventually get around to it. Hard keeping up with all the stuff that needs to be done right.

The Traction bars ARE welded to the tube.....:shaking:
Believe me I would take them off if it were easy enough.
The shackles are pretty short. IMO the rear suspension is worthless.
I plan on 4-linking the rear sometime this year, so yes the Anti wrap bar is short term.

Thanks for all the comments. I plan on fixing all the screw ups on this rig, so it will be right. :)

i gotta say i am no expert on leaf springs but they are simple enough that i can assess the damage. if you have an antiwrap and traction bars thats not going to solve your problem. also from what i have read is an antiwrap bar is a band aid. but you can say i am wrong. i think you might have to large of a lift with out long enough springs. also what size are your shackles. maybe a smaller shackle would help your issue. also looking at your traction bars do you have spring perches or just the traction bars. are the welded to the housing? i know this is a dumb question but sometimes the hardest solutions have the dumbest answers. i would ditch the traction bars first before you mess with setting up you antiwrap bar. it looks like your traction bar is giving you 2 inches of lift the wrong way (same as lift blocks) also i would like to see some pics of your pinion angles. good luck and hope i helped a little

This is why I rarely look in non-hardcore.:homer:

i believe your traction bars are actually causing more bad than good. just like lift blocks, they are putting more leverage on your springs. just like using a long breaker bar instead of a regular socket.
it looks like to me that you have no spring perches, so set aside a long afternoon to work on your rig. pull the springs off the axle, grind down the welds holding the bars on the tubes and get new perches on there.
as an added bonus you will be lessening your drive shaft angle, and also lowering your rig.

Every time I start working on this rig, I find something else that was done incorrectly. :bawling:

Problem with going ahead and taking the traction bars off and lowering the rear is I would have to lower the front. I would also have to fix the steering since it already hits the leaf springs when turning left.

Since I have already purchased the Anti wrap, I will throw it on there and ride like that for a while, then plan for it to be down to do the 4 link, fix the front and the steering all together.

And I thought purchasing a rig that was already built was a good idea. :homer:

Thanks again for the insight.

"Built" Jeep is a subjective term.

Now that you got that anti-wrap welded up, take a porta band, cut-off wheel, or torch to the front of those traction bars, so those leaf springs can work (a little). Leave the lift block portion for now. Again, take it out, have fun, break it, and rebuild it. That's what we do!

It appears your antiwrap arms ARE ALSO your spring perches. If you don't want to mess with them, I would just hack off the ends a few inches from center line in either direction. I doubt they are going to do a better job than the traction bar. That way they don't get hung up on everything.

As far as the crossmember, looks like it will hold up. Run it and find out.

And yes, I would look into a slip yoke eliminator for your t case. I installed a JB Conversions Super Slip Yoke Eliminator on my girl's TJ and it is pretty beefy and very short. Not to bad on price either. It was $300, or you could buy a similar one (but slightly longer) from AA or others for about $200.

Later,
Charlie

"Built" Jeep is a subjective term.

Now that you got that anti-wrap welded up, take a porta band, cut-off wheel, or torch to the front of those traction bars, so those leaf springs can work (a little). Leave the lift block portion for now. Again, take it out, have fun, break it, and rebuild it. That's what we do!

It appears your antiwrap arms ARE ALSO your spring perches. If you don't want to mess with them, I would just hack off the ends a few inches from center line in either direction. I doubt they are going to do a better job than the traction bar. That way they don't get hung up on everything.

As far as the crossmember, looks like it will hold up. Run it and find out.

And yes, I would look into a slip yoke eliminator for your t case. I installed a JB Conversions Super Slip Yoke Eliminator on my girl's TJ and it is pretty beefy and very short. Not to bad on price either. It was $300, or you could buy a similar one (but slightly longer) from AA or others for about $200.

Later,
Charlie

Im in on cutting stuff off of this heap. :D If it will help, I will do it.

Jeep is at the muffler shop getting new exhaust run on it. The guy looked at the existing piping and said " who the F#@% welded this stuff" LOL

I have the SYE saved in my Favorites under "stuff for jeep" (that folder is getting larger and larger)

I did a lot of research on fixing the spring wrap and didn't see anyone saying installing the anti wrap bar was a bad idea until after....d'oh!

This is why I rarely look in non-hardcore.:homer:

Word.

This is why I rarely look in non-hardcore.:homer:

whatta you mean am i an idiot or gave false advice or what?