How hard is it? Can't seem to really find any info on it. I see AA makes an adapter, but I want to see one cuz I think I can build it myself. It's going into my GF's 2 dr. XJ if I can get this to work for a reasonable price.

Easy

I don't see why you'd want to?

I don't see why you couldn't, but you're right, you'll need an adapter, and it may be easier to use an NP231 and 700R4 complete out of a 4.3 S-10. You may want ot hold off on getting or building an adapter, I've seen a lot of places starting to build complete bolt on bellhousing for auto trannies, you cut the existing case off flush at the pump, then the new bell bolts on the pump bolts. I wouldn't be surprised if lots of adapter bellhousings become available for autotrannies with this design, drag racers have been doing it with powerglides for years, and as popular as the 700R4 is, I'm sure something will become available. Some 4L60E's have a removeable bellhousing, I would bet a smart feller with lots of tools and stuff could build an adapted one.

I need to look at the tranny to see if I can hack it up. I don't have it yet, but will soon. The family owns a machine shop so I believe I could make a complete replacement bellhousing. My next consideration is the cps relocation. There's no way I'm going to shell out $400 for the kits that are out there. I know I can make my own and I don't know jack about electrical junk. I'm just wondering what you smart electrical type folks have done to solve this.

Easy

I still don't see what's wrong with the stock, Cherokee 4 speed auto tranny that you'd want to replace it with a 700r4?

If you've got the tools, hack the bell off the Jeep trans, somplet with CPS sensor mounting, and built an adapter to bolt it up to the pump mounting on the 700R4, just keep it all the same depth as the 700R4 bell and double check clearances. Oh yeah, make it beefy, factory auto trans bellhousings break from time to time, so your adapted setup needs to be stronger.

this really doesnt answer your question...but why fool with a 700r4? you could grab an AW4 from a boneyard for pennies, and we all know its a pretty darn reliable transmission. ive dogged the shit out of every xj ive owned, and that little bastard just wouldnt give up. i say unless were talking about a built motor, why bother?

I have a 88 AW4 (4wd) I will sell you for cheap if you are just trying to replace a bad one.

You guys just don't get it do ya. Sometimes you gotta be different. We don't need 60's under our daily driven 35" tired XJ's either, but some of us do it don't we. I'm searching out possibilities right now. I've got a 2 dr. XJ coming to me (actually to my SO) that has a stick and no tcase. I found a 700r4 w/ 231 for $200. So why not start hacking away and see what comes of it. I know the AW4 is stout, but the whole 1-2 thing just pisses me off to no end. Yeah, I've got the switch in mine, and it works but it's a pain in the ass. I'm thinking of dumping a shift kit and some sort of aftermarket shifter and seeing how I/We like it. I'm also going to put in a switch to control the torque converter, anybody figured out how to do that with an AW4 yet? It's all about modifications boys:rolleyes: :D

Oh yeah, I could've thought that this was tech, not opinion. Thanks for the suggestions 4bang.;)

Easy

Ain't nuthin caint be dun wit nuf tools and riggin' and stuff.

Actually, you could yank the 4.0 and throw in a 2.5 and bolt up a 700R4 and NP231 from a 2.8l S-10, hey, you said you wanted to be different.

Originally posted by EasyXJ
You guys just don't get it do ya. Sometimes you gotta be different. We don't need 60's under our daily driven 35" tired XJ's either, but some of us do it don't we.

Easy
is that supposed to be a jab at me?

2.8 in place of a 4.0- I said different not stupid- geesh :D

if you feel the need to take it as a jab, then do so, but I wasn't even thinking about your junk. I'm going to most likely be doing a rear 60 in the new XJ w/ 35's also so I guess I need to take it as a jab to myself also.

So, is there any tech out there :flipoff2:

Easy

that would be why i asked, i dont feel the need for anything.
i just make sure before i let loose.

Oh yeah, I could've thought that this was tech, not opinion.


Did you really think you'd get one without the other??

:shaking:

Originally posted by EasyXJ
I'm also going to put in a switch to control the torque converter, anybody figured out how to do that with an AW4 yet? It's all about modifications boys:rolleyes: :D

Oh yeah, I could've thought that this was tech, not opinion. Thanks for the suggestions 4bang.;)

Easy

Yes I have figured out how to put in a switch to control the torque convertor in the AW4 but you don't want my opinon do ya...:flipoff2: :rolleyes:

I want your tech fawker:flipoff2: So enlighten those of us that are stupid in the ways of the AW tranny's pump. I'm open to options, but opinions are like assholes and all that.........

Easy

That AA adaptor wont work on a 4.0L Sean...unless your looking at a newer AA catalog and they now offer one.

The AA catalog i'm looking at states"This kit (pn716138) will not work on 4.0L engines. A special kit can be purchased from Clifford Performance which will allow the flywheel sensor to be relocated on the harmonic balancer. Their phone number is (909)-734-3310"

Is this the $400 kit you mentioned? Is the reason for it not working the CPS/flexplate issue?

Originally posted by EasyXJ
I want your tech fawker:flipoff2: So enlighten those of us that are stupid in the ways of the AW tranny's pump. I'm open to options, but opinions are like assholes and all that.........

Easy
Three solenoids in the AW4, the ol' numero three-o controls lockup of the TC. Put power to that and it will lock up at your demand. You can find the wire going out of your TCU to the transmission and I don't know if it's the same color for all years. I believe it's the white and black wire at C14, but double check for that year first. I would also install a diode so it doesn't feed any voltage into the TCU but I'm also paranoid.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by MilspecXJ
That AA adaptor wont work on a 4.0L Sean...unless your looking at a newer AA catalog and they now offer one.

The AA catalog i'm looking at states"This kit (pn716138) will not work on 4.0L engines. A special kit can be purchased from Clifford Performance which will allow the flywheel sensor to be relocated on the harmonic balancer. Their phone number is (909)-734-3310"

Is this the $400 kit you mentioned? Is the reason for it not working the CPS/flexplate issue?

I don't see why you couldn't use an AW4 flexplate and redrill it for the 700R4 Torque Converter. YOu will need spacers between the flexplate and Converter. You could then cut a slot in the top of your tranny for the CPS.

Other than that, you could take the exact same sensor and move it to the harmonic balancer. You will need to make your own bracket and lengthen the wires. You will need to drill 12 holes in the harmonic balancer. The holes will need to be very precise and in a pattern. But it is doable if you have the time, access to drill press and clamps, and a little welding.

As for drilling the holes in the balancer- I haven't looked at the AW4 flexplate in a long time and even then wasn't too concerned about the notches on it, are you saying 12 holes in the balancer cuz there's 12 notches in the flexplate? Doing that precisely isn't a problem, the family owns a machine shop. How deep should the holes go 1/4", and how far away from the balancer should the sensor be? I can get the correct flexplate from AA for $60, that's no biggie cuz I'll need to get one anyhow.

Easy

I was lookin at a pic in 4wd hardware catalog of AAs AMC/ chevy trans adapter. looks like The 5/8 outer bellhousing holes (the ones with dowels) on the AMC match the position of the lower bellhousing holes on the chevy trans. IF (big IF) so, it seems like it would not be too tough to machine a plate to mate the two. I have been thinkin of doin this as well on my CJ.

The notches in the damper prolly need to be 1/4 deep at least. The sensor should be fairly close. I used a oil filter box (thin cardboard type) as a 'feeler gauge' when building my sensor bracket. This is about how close they are factory.

If you like, I can measure the depth, width and spacing of the holes. If your family has a machine shop, then you could put the balancer on a mill and do it easily. It basically matches the pattern on the flywheel. Here is a pic to help you out: