well this isn't related to the 4x4 system of the truck, but, i'm hoping someone knows an answer.

'93 f150 with I6 engine.

ran great. started it up saturday, drive < 1 mile, shut off, would not re-start.

at first, it didn't seem like the fuel pump was clicking on. after it sat for a bit, it'll start for a second and shut off. and now the fuel pump runs constantly on either tank (2 seperate pumps, 1 in each tank) where as before, it would run, pressurize and shut off.

one tank is 1/4 full, other is full.

thoughts??

fuel filter? bypass valve? flooding the motor??

I haven't pulled the fuel line to see if there is fuel coming thru the lines yet.


update at post 60

You have a schreader valve on fuel rail, just press it down, it should have 40PSI of pressure so it should be enough to squirt you in the eye.

Really the other common things on those that fail are EEC relays, so check for spark.

You have a schreader valve on fuel rail, just press it down, it should have 40PSI of pressure so it should be enough to squirt you in the eye.

Really the other common things on those that fail are EEC relays, so check for spark.
ahh, will do.

and would the EEC relay be interminit? after it sits for a few, it'll start, running really rough for 3-5 seconds then die again.

This is just the trucks way of asking to go peacefully to it's grave.


:flipoff2:

the pump will run for 2 sec to prime the system, then off untill the engine starts, or you turn it off and cycle the key

if its running and it the truck wont fire off eather tank - i dbout it a pump

have someone crank her and check for spark

the TFI modules are known for failing - it controls the spark and the injector base firing

if it runs and the pumps never shut off the EEC relay can crap out

check the stupid shit first... see if you have fuel and spark.

We had the same truck, one day it started stripping dist gears left and right... I hated that damn truck.

This is just the trucks way of asking to go peacefully to it's grave.


:flipoff2:

LOL, I haven't recouped my $$ from getting the tranny fixed yet. i can't let it die LOL

the pump will run for 2 sec to prime the system, then off untill the engine starts, or you turn it off and cycle the key

if its running and it the truck wont fire off eather tank - i dbout it a pump

have someone crank her and check for spark

the TFI modules are known for failing - it controls the spark and the injector base firing

if it runs and the pumps never shut off the EEC relay can crap out

correct, until this happened, it was always like that.

it sometimes runs rough for 2-3 seconds then dies and the pump never shuts off. so i know its getting spark... at least sometimes.

TFI and EEC seem to be lead contenders here. Napa items or dealer items?

check the stupid shit first... see if you have fuel and spark.

We had the same truck, one day it started stripping dist gears left and right... I hated that damn truck.


knock on wood, this truck has done me good first time it left me on the side of the road.... caught fire once in the garage.. but always made it home LOL.... i'll actually check to make sure dist is tight too.


thanks guys

napa has them both - they can test the TFI ( well some locations can )

but i have had them test good and still be failing ( aka i didnt beleive the napa guy and put a new one on and it ran fine )

check the ecm grounds on the fender, and the engine grounds - a bad connection can do wonders

LOL, I haven't recouped my $$ from getting the tranny fixed yet. i can't let it die LOL

Yeah, I hear ya. Besides that, isn't Ford out of business??


it sometimes runs rough for 2-3 seconds then dies and the pump never shuts off. so i know its getting spark... at least sometimes.

Sure sounds like a pump but with two tanks....no way.

napa has them both - they can test the TFI ( well some locations can )

but i have had them test good and still be failing ( aka i didnt beleive the napa guy and put a new one on and it ran fine )

Don't blame them, thermal distortion has a lot to do with electronic components. Once they're hot they fubar. :(

Yeah, I hear ya. Besides that, isn't Ford out of business??




Sure sounds like a pump but with two tanks....no way.



Don't blame them, thermal distortion has a lot to do with electronic components. Once they're hot they fubar. :(
ok, update on last night.

I checked spark getting from the coil to dist, check
spark from dist to plugs, check
schreader valve found and fuel in the line, check (although i just let a little bit out, would an air somewhere in the line cause something like this?)

still doesn't start and either fuel pump runs continuously (ie, neither builds up pressure and shuts off)

I haven't verified if its firing at the right times (ie, dist jumped a tooth) spark seems pretty good.

where would i find the TFI and EEC modules on the truck?

How much fuel came out when you hit the schearder valve?
Cycle the key to build up pressue, then hit the valve. 40 PSI is what it should be.

How much fuel came out when you hit the schearder valve?
Cycle the key to build up pressue, then hit the valve. 40 PSI is what it should be.
dunno, i just pushed the valve open and got gas on my hands :D

I didn't spray much of it to really get a feel for the pressure, but it didn't feel like a pressure washer nozzle just hit me.


do they have gauges for that? I'm assuming a tire gauge wouldn't work LOL

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200329231_200329231

40 PSI should jump up about a foot.
I just wanted to make sure it did not just dribble out.

40 PSI should jump up about a foot.
I just wanted to make sure it did not just dribble out.
I'll check it again tonight.

ok, checked last night. Seems to have decent pressure spraying out of the valve when the key is on, you can hear the fuel running thru the lines

if i cycle the key on and off 3-4 times real quick, it'll sound like it trys to start.. but wont

you can hear the fuel running thru the lines

We need to be clear here. It sounds like you said neither pump builds pressure and shuts off. Is that with just the key on and engine not running? The pump should build pressure quickly and shut off if the engine is not running.

Now you are saying you can here the fuel running through the line. Is this with the engine off? If either of these are with the engine off, I'd say the fuel pressure regulator is shot. If its with it running, then maybe its still bad. You need to check the pressure with a gage probably either way.

The fuel pressure regulator should be at the end of the fuel rail where the return line connects and heads back to the tank(s). I believe it only has a vacuum line to it, but it may have a vacuum line and an electric plug.

ok.

the pump is not building pressure and shutting off when the engine isn't running.

with the engine off, the pump continously runs and i can hear the fuel running thru the system in the engine compartment

I recal seeing something at the back of the motor on the fuel rail.

ok, got a pressure gauge on the fuel line.

60psi.

still doesn't start, and the fuel pumps run all the time.


we sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake and it fired up, so the spark is there and working.

so, what do you guys think? fuel pressure regulator? other?

60 sounds like a lot, maybe too much? Could there be a safety switch that keeps the injectors from stroking if the pressure is too high. If 40 is normal, what is considered too high?

I was thinking that the high pressure was not allowing the fuel to get to the injectors or the unit that fires off the injectors is shutting them off or not working. (although if the injectors weren't working, i'd think the fuel pump would shut off normally after it pressurizs)

When are you home? Maybe I need an excuse for a drive to help you make it run :)
If you have pressure, and you have spark, and we assume you have timing, then it should run.
Spraying either/carb cleaner, down the throttle body, did make it run, to me means you have a flow issue with fuel.
Having 60 psi in that system to me means something is fuct' either the pump (that only shoots 40 psi) is running way hot, or your pressure regulator is hosed.

Do you have a vaccum pump? putting 10-15 inches of vaccum on the Reg, and checking the pressure again. Adding vaccum should make a change in the pressue.

I on uncharted territory here, but it seems like the high fuel pressure, pump running on and injectors not squirting are related to one malfunctioning part, most likely a pump pressure cut-off switch. The injectors not squirting is a safety feature to cause you to investgate the problem??? Just a guess. Its either that or a malfunctioning FPR, and the injectors can't physically overcome the high pressure, or are designed not to.

When are you home? Maybe I need an excuse for a drive to help you make it run :)
If you have pressure, and you have spark, and we assume you have timing, then it should run.
Spraying either/crab cleaner, down the throttle body, did make it run, to me means you have a flow issue with fuel.
Having 60 psi in that system to me means something is fuct' either the pump (that only shoots 40 psi) is running way hot, or your pressure regulator is hosed.

Do you have a vaccum pump? putting 10-15 inches of vaccum on the Reg, and checking the pressure again. Adding vaccum should make a change in the pressue.
any day during the week after 5 and all weekend :)

don't have a vacume pump anymore.

if the pressure regulator is what also makes the fuel pumps turn off, then that sound like a possiblity.

could there be some other elec. issue causing the pumps to run 'hot' and not allowing them to shut off? ie, an elect. short somewhere?

I've seen a Ford truck electric pump run on even with the key off, so yes a short could be the problem. The injectors may be sensitive too excessive pressure by design. Is there a relay that controls the pumps in the box. Try switching it with a like relay that won't effect start up. They may have improved the system so that the output of the fuel pump relay has to go through the ignition switch also in case it does get stuck closed.

When your cranking over the engine, can you put a hand on the injectors and feel them "Clicking"

Kind of dangerous, but you could rig a hose from the pressure port back to the tank fill to bleed off the excess pressure and see if it would start. Take the line off a bike pump, then add some to it, or just let it go in a 5 gallon can. You could also run one tank dry by transferring the lowest one to the other like this, then the rest into gas cans if you didn't have room. Then you could switch to the full tank to prime, then to the empty to start. It should have low fuel pressure, but maybe enough to start. You could put a half gallon or so back into the empty tank for sporadic suction if you needed a tad more pressure. I'd look at the relay first though.

If your playing with the truck tonight, just give me call.
I won't post up my number on the BBS, but you know plenty of people that have my number.

When your cranking over the engine, can you put a hand on the injectors and feel them "Clicking"
I don't have long enough arms to try that :flipoff2:

I think i know someone that has your number LOL

gonna have to figure out which relay runs the fuel pumps, but, i'm sure its one in the fuse block.

i'll give it a whirl.

60 sounds like a lot, maybe too much? Could there be a safety switch that keeps the injectors from stroking if the pressure is too high. If 40 is normal, what is considered too high?

50-60 psi is normal fuel pressure spec with key on engine off.
45-60 psi with key on engine running.

I was thinking that the high pressure was not allowing the fuel to get to the injectors or the unit that fires off the injectors is shutting them off or not working. (although if the injectors weren't working, i'd think the fuel pump would shut off normally after it pressurizs)

The computer grounds one side of the injectors to fire them. The red wires at each injector should have power with key on. A quick check with a test light at one of the red injector wires to be sure.

If it starts and runs for a bit have ass smoothly with throttle body cleaner spraying in it, it isn't injectors.

I think you need to take a closer look at fuel pressure. with guage on it and you key it on (not cranking) does the pressure quickly rise to 50-60 psi AND HOLD THERE. does it slowly drop pressure?

Pull the vacuum hose off of the regulator and make sure there isn't any signs of fuel in the hose. I just seen a 460 fuel inj. truck with a frigged up regulator and would still start just barely run.

Have you tried to start it cranking and holding your gas pedal to the floor the whole time cranking this will "Clear flood" and see if you can get it to spit and sputter up, not solving the problem just seeing if you can get it running.

Just throwing a couple out there for ya, good luck man.

Grasshopper77, what makes the fuel pump stop when the engine is not running? Is it just the physical pressure it can't overcome? I'm not aware of any pressure switch in the system. Is it a processed interuption of power from the ECM? Just curious. What do you think of the fuel pump running on?

I believe the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ecm which controls fuel pump relay on/off. I'm not sure about the pump running all the time cause some of the replies were confusing.

A faulty relay or connection will cause intermittent no pump or constant pump operation for sure but am confused as to why the truck will not start with pump operation and 60psi?

The pumps in the tanks are low pressure (bring the gas) to the high pressure pump. If a low pressure pump was failing you could switch tanks and it should run normally.

It doesn't matter if the fuel pump is running on, its not going to overcome the injectors or the regulator. But a fuel pump running continally with the key on is a problem.

Are the eec and the fuel pump relays side by side, beside the air cleaner box or are they in the engine compartment fuse box?

So what the hell...what time is it down there?

You all gave up and went drinkin' didn't you..bastads...:laughing:

LOL, thanks grasshopper.

i'll try to do some of your ideas and report back.

the fuel pump is running the entire time the key is in the on position and the motor isn't running.

I'll try and snag the pressure gauge again and see what i can find out.

thanks a ton!

So are you talking about the high pressure pump on the frame under your seat that is constantly running with key on?

I need to know if your fuel pressure is staying above 45psi while you are cranking it.

Although right now I am having a nice cold beer. Thats no excuse for you, get to work and fix that truck, Hurry up, no more beers for you....:D

I have the same truck and went through the same problem. I started off with replacing the fuel pump in the frame rail, then the fuel filter. Then I replaced the ecu because those tend to go bad after sitting then the truck ran great. Then I was driving it one day and it just died and did the same thing yours is doing, and today I replaced the fuel regulator and the truck runs awesome. If you have any questions I know pretty much anything that it could probably be because I have gone through the same problem, so just ask me.
~Kenny

I have the same truck and went through the same problem. I started off with replacing the fuel pump in the frame rail, then the fuel filter. Then I replaced the ecu because those tend to go bad after sitting then the truck ran great. Then I was driving it one day and it just died and did the same thing yours is doing, and today I replaced the fuel regulator and the truck runs awesome. If you have any questions I know pretty much anything that it could probably be because I have gone through the same problem, so just ask me.
~Kenny

I am leaning towards the reg, as well.
Hell, I'd go the junk yard and pick one up for under 5$, and toss it on.

I have the same truck and went through the same problem. I started off with replacing the fuel pump in the frame rail, then the fuel filter. Then I replaced the ecu because those tend to go bad after sitting then the truck ran great. Then I was driving it one day and it just died and did the same thing yours is doing, and today I replaced the fuel regulator and the truck runs awesome. If you have any questions I know pretty much anything that it could probably be because I have gone through the same problem, so just ask me.
~Kenny

So you threw a bunch of parts at it till it was fixed..:homer:

If you read the previous posts already than I'm sure you have a definate answer as to why buddys truck will not run..:smokin:

I'm waiting :bounce2:

well, update time.


Changed the fuel pressure regulator and it kinda runs... but not.

it fired up twice, ran like crap.

fuel pumps still don't pressurize and shut off UNLESS i hold the throttle wide open. yup, turn the key on, pumps run, hold the pedel to the floor it runs for another second and shuts off. let up on the throttle, pumps click back on.

also, the check engine light comes on (for good reason) but, when i hold WOT it turns off.

change the spark plugs, the ones i pulled out were carboned up pretty bad.

to get it to start, i've had to click the key on-off like 3-4 times really quick, and hold the throttle down and it'll sometimes start. once its running its sputtering and running rough. if i let it 'idle' it searches around in the low RPM's and typically dies. if i push the throttle to quickly, it dies, if i ease into it, it'll rev.


so, TPS swap out?

well, update time.


Changed the fuel pressure regulator and it kinda runs... but not.

it fired up twice, ran like crap.

fuel pumps still don't pressurize and shut off UNLESS i hold the throttle wide open. yup, turn the key on, pumps run, hold the pedel to the floor it runs for another second and shuts off. let up on the throttle, pumps click back on.

also, the check engine light comes on (for good reason) but, when i hold WOT it turns off.

change the spark plugs, the ones i pulled out were carboned up pretty bad.

to get it to start, i've had to click the key on-off like 3-4 times really quick, and hold the throttle down and it'll sometimes start. once its running its sputtering and running rough. if i let it 'idle' it searches around in the low RPM's and typically dies. if i push the throttle to quickly, it dies, if i ease into it, it'll rev.


so, TPS swap out?

TPS might have something to do with feedback to ecm screwing it up. That would be the next component I looked at. Then again, I don't know what I'm looking at. :)

Are the sparks bright and snappy or dull and yellow/orange? If you have a weak coil, maybe they are strong enough to run on ether, but not the a/f mixture. Just a thought.

bump.

prolly gonna pick up the TPS and see what happens

well, i guess the coil spark wasn't super bright.

Check your TPS, but I don't think it has anything to do with it, as if it went bad, you would go into limp mode and it would still run.
You still IMO have something simple going on.
When you got it to chug last time, were all the plugs black, like you were over fueling it?
After the fuel reg swamp, whats your fuel pressure now?
Find the fuel return line and pinch it shut, see if your fuel pressure changes.
Is your fuel rail easy to remove? (They are all easy as in 2 bolts, just whats in your way to get to it?)

i'm not 100% that the running crappy and the fuel pump continously running are the same problem.

but, limp mode would be kinda what's happening.

from what i can see its the 2 bolts, but how are the injectors attached to it?

They just slip in, an o-ring holds them in.
Just remove the 2 bolts, and take a pry bar and pop them out.
I just want to make sure one is not leaking.

They just slip in, an o-ring holds them in.
Just remove the 2 bolts, and take a pry bar and pop them out.
I just want to make sure one is not leaking.

How is he going to tell if its leaking? When you pull the rail apart, you can't turn it on. Sandwiching the injectors into the intake with the rail and its bolts is what keeps the o-rings sealed. If you turn it on with the rail loose, the loosest injector is going to pop out if they even stay in the rail at all. If you are going to remove the injectors, you should get them flow-tested. If you have a black cylinder, start with that one, because it can be pricey. Most diesel shops can and will flow-test modern gas injectors for you, but the last time I checked, I think it was $80 to $100 a batch.

I see where you are going with this, and I had the same thoughts, but if one were leaking enough to effect the system pressure, wouldn't that form a hydraulic lock on that cylinder like a cracked head putting water in there? I'm thinking very low fuel, and/or spark due to something loose, weak or wore out. What that something is I haven't a clue, but I think its also failing to process the fuel pressure to kill the pump.

Check your TPS, but I don't think it has anything to do with it, as if it went bad, you would go into limp mode and it would still run.
You still IMO have something simple going on.
When you got it to chug last time, were all the plugs black, like you were over fueling it?
After the fuel reg swamp, whats your fuel pressure now?
Find the fuel return line and pinch it shut, see if your fuel pressure changes.Is your fuel rail easy to remove? (They are all easy as in 2 bolts, just whats in your way to get to it?)

They just slip in, an o-ring holds them in.
Just remove the 2 bolts, and take a pry bar and pop them out.
I just want to make sure one is not leaking.

I'm not sure whats going on here but be careful, on the fords I've seen they run stainless steel braided plastic lines, do NOT pinch them off.

You don't have to pull the injectors out of the manifold to see if they are leaking. You can check them doing a pressure drop at the rail. Even if a couple of injectors were leaking down, the truck would still run, but like shit.
If he can't get it running using clear flood and keep it running, he still needs some help.:D

Have you checked your TFI module on the side of your distributor?

Well you can't really check it, but I'm going to take a close look at it tomorrow and see how it plays in cause I can't remember shit right now...:beer:

wow there are a lot of part tossers on the web :shaking:

if you are getting a fuel pressure oof 60 psi with the engine NOT running - but with the fuel pump running, that is fine. spec for your truck is 30-45 running - most i see are in the 31-36 range at idle and 45-50 at wot or with the fuel pressure regulator dissconected.

the pump is shut off when the ECM shuts it off, as said by grasshopper - the ecm grounds the fuel pump relay to send power to the fuel pump(s). there should be a 2-4 sec prime when the key is first turned on, and then off untill the engine gets a crank signal to the ecm -

if the pump is staying on with the key on - but fires and seems to run on carb kleener. and you have fuel pressure, and power to the injectors, then the ecm is not grounding the injectors to fire them. so the ecm is crap, or most likely the TFI is damaged and is not sendind the proper signal to the ecm to fire the injectors

a damaged fuel pressure reg will almost always cause high fuel pressure due to a damaged diaphram -
hi fuel pressure will ( should ) not cause an engine not to start.

a tps will cause a hard start, lean running and sometimes backfireing or hesitation.


like i said a few posts ago - the tfi can be checked at most napas -

wow there are a lot of part tossers on the web :shaking:




Sure as hell ain't me, I 'm discussing lots of different things and possibilities but have never said to throw any parts at it.
Have I? :D I didn't reread all my posts.

I can't say for sure without checking but does the TFI module have a input or output from the fuel curcuit?
Old lady is pissing me off and I'm not thinking clearly right now...:rasta:

no the tfi dose not switch the fuel, but the tack signal coming from it tells the ecm to turn it on and off.

and i didnt mean you sounded like you wanted him to toss parts, but everyone else ?

like the ecms fail from sitting all the time ? WTF

and the regulator has a shut off to turn of the pump for over pressure ?






it like talking to a teen with a honda civic - ya man its a v tech, it so it goes faster - like nos or something













a real responce i got the other day :eek:

so, so call me stupid, what is the TFI and where is it attached so i can remove it to have it tested.

also, the TPS doesn't control the fuel pumps, correct? is it then the ECM that is working correctly when the pedel is at WOT and the pumps shut off normally?

The TFI is either mounted directly on the side of the distibutor or on a block in the drivers inner fender/firewall area. Don't know for sure where on your truck.

You keep coming back to the pump running all the time. Like I said before that is a problem but shouldn't cause a no-start. Thats what the fuel pressure regulator is for to keep a steady predetermined pressure.

I'm a little confused actually as to whats happening now?
Maybe give us an update, since the ideas you have received on this post, so we can see where we are at.:D

im having the same kinda issue. but i found that if i let the pumps prime then pull the pump relay out it will start but you got to be quick and plug it back in before it runs out of fuel it built up when it primed...dont know what this means but thats where im at...:confused:

From what I'm hearing on this thread about how this crap works, I'm going to have to go with the ecm unless it can be figured out what component feeding it information is malfunctioning or has a bad connection. It sounds to me like the ecm is failing to shut off the pump. I don't believe for 1 second that the ONLY information it processes to turn the pump on and off is frequency from the distributor. If you have a brand new perfect fuel pump it will only come on for a split second when you turn the key on, and if its ready to shit the bed, it will run for a few seconds before it shuts off(w/o the motor running). To me, that means its processing pressure and the frequency just sets the mode on how it processes that pressure. To me, 65 lbs. sounds high, even though its been said it isn't. There is conflicting data here on that, and I've never heard anything much above 40 psi was normal. I'm saying that the ECM is registering a high fuel pressure signal, indicating that the fuel pump is not responding to its control, and therefore its not grounding the injectors to fire them. How else could it run on ether and not 65 psi of fuel to the injectors?

just because it has fuel pressure, DOSENT mean it will run - the injectors have to fire - :shaking:

the fuel pressure for a 1990 f150 4.9 six is 45 at idle and 60 with the fuel pressure reg dissconnected

key on engine off - 50 -60 psi

a 5.0 or 5.8 is 30 at idle and 40 with the reg off - 35-45 psi when the key is on






the six uses a higher pressure to combat vapor lock issues due to the injectors being right next to the exhaust ( not to mention they are under a big heat sink of an intake )

oh and the TFI should be on the dissy for your truck. you will need a VERY thin wall 5.5 mm deep socket

I'm saying that the ECM is registering a high fuel pressure signal, indicating that the fuel pump is not responding to its control, and therefore its not grounding the injectors to fire them. How else could it run on ether and not 65 psi of fuel to the injectors?

WTF?

This a 1993 ford truck, not 2008. The ecm on this truck is stupid. :shaking:

the fuel pressure for a 1990 f150 4.9 six is 45 at idle and 60 with the fuel pressure reg dissconnected

key on engine off - 50 -60 psi







As previously stated thank you, cause someone just keeps disagreeing with those specs.

WTF?

This a 1993 ford truck, not 2008. The ecm on this truck is stupid. :shaking:

Then go down there and get the stupid thing running for him. :D

I just don't believe in coincidences. If its 2 separate issues then it is. Just trying to throw some stuff out there since no one seems to have nailed it yet.

ok, full update.

to date, i've changed the fuel pressure regulator and the TPS and spark plugs.

fuel pump runs continuesly when key is in the 'on' position.. except when i go to WOT the pump will shut off like normal.

the truck will start now, but, runs poorly. inorder to start it, i have to cycle the key on and off 3-4 times and it sometimes starts. runs really rough and searches the rpms at idle from 500-100 rpms. if i ease the rpms up, it will go, to much throttle to quick, it dies.

while running, its got no power. I drove across my flat driveway, but the hill at the end, no dice.

check engine light is on, but, unforunatly i don't have a code reader and i can't drive it a shop to have it checked.

looking at the dist. its got wires going in to the side of it from the coil but thats it. not sure where the TFI would be on it.

not sure where the TFI would be on it.

It is bolted on the side of the dizzy and has wires plugged into it.

Check your TPS voltage after you replaced it.
I forget the wire colors needed, but putting a meter on 2 wires of the TPS (there are only 3, you have good chances, or just google), your TPS with key on, engine off, should be between 0.8-1volt.

As previously stated thank you, cause someone just keeps disagreeing with those specs.

I worked for Ford, and never saw one hit 60 PSI :P 40-50 is what they are.

You're going to think this sounds stupid and is unrelated, but how is your brake booster and bb check valve? It sounds like you have a big vacuum leak if it weren't for the pump running. I've always assumed the FPR failed shut, and vacuum bled off of it when the engine shut down, but if its supposed to be held on, and that vacuum is being depleted by a booster leak down, that would explain the pump running and the fuel recircing. By the way, back to where we started, can you still hear the fuel running through the lines with the key on, engine off? That's an indication that the FPR, even though we know its good now(we assume the new part is ok), is still not being held in the correct mode for start up.

Better yet, check the condition of the vacuum line going to the FPR, and put a vacuum gage on it when its running to see if its getting a signal through to it. If its not functioning properly, that 60 you are getting off may dwindle down too low when the injectors are firing if the FPR isn't regulating. Have you had the fuel pressure gage on running yet? That's been asked already, and is very important.

On further thought, it would make sense if the FPR also acted as a safety relief valve, and maybe 65 is what it lets go at no matter what, and that's why you hear the fuel flowing when the fuel pump is running with the engine off. The lack of power does sound a lot like heavy vacuum leak though, but of course it could be many things.

I worked for Ford, and never saw one hit 60 PSI :P 40-50 is what they are.

Then you weren't paying attention there or here, cause a couple of us have stated "60PSI WITH REG VACUUM DISCONNECTED"

Which in turn will "dead head" the pump to full output, which is around 60PSI.

I don't even know why I'm arguing this, nevermind...:flipoff2: