I orderd a double ended steering ram from station a member of this board and i have orderd many rams of this style and i must say when i opend the box i was very happy this ram is very heavy dutty and it has 8'' stroke with mounting lugs on the cyl.the shaft is much larger than any i have orderd from other sources it was taped fpr 3/4''heims if you need a ram look no futher this is it. staion thanks for the great deal and speedy delivery .if you all need specs pm staion

how about a pic?

i wanna see:eek:

Station just quoted me this setup also lets see some pics

Glad I could help you out after you tore up the ASM so bad Frankie.

Here is the best pic that I have at the moment. This is the steering cylinder on Doug Marbourgs Defender 90 competition buggy.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=602318

Here are some pics of his super trick mounting that he did.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=779504
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=779524
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=779540
More info here on Dougs vehicle.
Doug's Defender (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75273)

The steering cylinder is an Arlington 2.25" bore, 1.5" shaft:eek:, 8" stroke(4" from center to lock) double ended (balanced), welded steering cylinder with foot mounts complete with 3/4 x 5/8 QA1 Endura series rod ends and jam nuts for $320. I can install cheaper rod ends if that is your choice. The QA1 Endura series rod ends are top of the line aircraft quality heims with Teflon/Kevlar lining.

If you already have heim joints, or you want to source your own, I will sell the steering cylinder modified to accept heim joint rod ends for $250.
Or you can get it for $200 with no modification, but expert machine work is required to the ram to fit heim joints.


Sean

So, if a guy was to buy one of these cylinders, would the end of the shaft come bored at all? I'm keen on the idea of running TRE's... You could bore it and tap it out to 7/8, 18tpi for a standard GM tie rod, no? If you were to mount this say, somewhere in front of the diff along the lines of where the stock tie rod is, but fit closer into the housing and perhaps mounted on the long side tube would you have to worry about any mechanical advantage being lost from the two different lengths and angles of tie rods? Are you able to rotate the piston/shaft in the barrel? (I can't think of a reason you wouldn't be able to, but making sure)

What's your complete price for the aformentioned Cylinder and a control unit? Would you be able to run a "stock" chevy steering pump?

Thanks, Chad.

Originally posted by MR4WD
So, if a guy was to buy one of these cylinders, would the end of the shaft come bored at all? I'm keen on the idea of running TRE's... You could bore it and tap it out to 7/8, 18tpi for a standard GM tie rod, no? If you were to mount this say, somewhere in front of the diff along the lines of where the stock tie rod is, but fit closer into the housing and perhaps mounted on the long side tube would you have to worry about any mechanical advantage being lost from the two different lengths and angles of tie rods? Are you able to rotate the piston/shaft in the barrel? (I can't think of a reason you wouldn't be able to, but making sure)

What's your complete price for the aformentioned Cylinder and a control unit? Would you be able to run a "stock" chevy steering pump?

Thanks, Chad.

Yes for the price above the ends come bored and tapped, but because I do the boring myself, I have control over what size and thread goes on the ends. Yes It can be tapped to 7/8"-18. I do not have that tap currently but I could get it if there was a few more people interested in that thread to justify the cost of the tap.

You can mount the cylinder off from center with VERY little effect. Here is a qoute from Gordon(whos opinion I respect in such matters) on the subject.
Originally posted by Gordon
one tire will turn slightly farther than the other, effectively more ackerman turning one way than the other. I think the effect will be so small that no one would notice unless you pointed it out. I don't think it would be a problem at all. I would put the ram as close to the center as possible though. If the short tie rod gets really short like less than 3 times the length of the steering arm, the effects start getting more noticeable. (Notecable enough that an engineer designing farm equiptment would calculate it)

Yes, the shaft can be spun within the body.

Sean

Oh, and about the valve.

A load reactive DanFoss steering valve(NICE!!) is $280, and the input shaft for the valve is $50(The input shaft has double sealed bearings, and a thick steel housing). I can match the displacement to whatever steering cylinder that you will be using to give the steering ratio that you want.


Frankie, You need one of these load reactive valves in your new rock racer. We can make that lightweight Mog axled machine steer like a sports car.;) :D


Sean

Who has a double ended/load reactive hydro setup that has driven it on the street much ?
How does it compare to standard power steering on the road and at speed ?

wow:bounce2: wish i had $$$

I am with dirtrod on this one how dose it woek on the street?
My courent stering setup sucks for off road. To much flex. If the truck rolls right and the axle drops left I can not steer to the left at all.

what about a valve for my rear steer ? what do you have or recamend for my rock racer thanks for your help ;)

not sure what mr4x4 has in mind for tierods
so
Station what do you recommend for us that what to use OEM style TRE?
seems to me that the SRE/hiems are the only option at the ram, what did I miss?

Originally posted by mj
not sure what mr4x4 has in mind for tierods
so
Station what do you recommend for us that what to use OEM style TRE?
seems to me that the SRE/hiems are the only option at the ram, what did I miss?

You could use steering arms that have TRE's on the wheel end, and solid ends that have the correct tepered hole on the ram end. The steering cylinder could be set above or below the plane of the steering arms to make up for the offset in the TRE's so that you are not pushing the steering arms at too much of an angle.

Heims are the easier option, but not the only option. The heims that I sell with the cylinder are the QA-1 Endura rid ends, that have the Teflon/Kevlar race lining. They have a 40,570# static load rating. They are not the cheapest heims, but I am sure that they should last a LONG time in this application.

Sean

I agree with Station...Use heims at the ram end, and if you must, TRE's at the kuck's...Working out two small tie-rods, drilled and tapered at one end, and threaded at the other, (IMO) doesn't buy you much.

--D

someone post a website or phone number to purchase this thing?

why not just PM Station here as he is the supplier

That has to be the coolest Rover I've ever seen :eek:

Originally posted by SJ410Bark
That has to be the coolest Rover I've ever seen :eek:
Agreed!!

That thing is SICK:p Doug!

Sean

;)

Originally posted by dirtrod
Who has a double ended/load reactive hydro setup that has driven it on the street much ?
How does it compare to standard power steering on the road and at speed ?

back to the top...
Nobody has any info on how well these setups handle ?