So I guess I need to re-wire the M715. Had a bit of a short/fire last time out when I came down off a ledge. Hard. Between the stock military harness, Fire Dept auxiliary wiring, and my hack fest from the 360/12 v conversion, its a clusterfuck in there. Starting from scratch.
Then I guess I'm doing the flattie, since my girlfriend has taken a liking to it.
And someday, just maybe someday, It'll be time to do the 5-1/2.
So I figure I'm gonna try to standardize the wiring for all my rigs. My question is...

Is there a standard wire color code I can use? Specifically for lights (hi/low, left/right, brake, marker, etc).
Since I'm starting with nothing, and buying rolls, I might as well stick to something.
Also, what gauge is recommended for what applications? Battery to switch, switch to fuse panel, input to brake switch/flasher, light feeds, etc.

And wish me luck.

Good luck. I don't think I've seen a standard, at least in the handful of cars I've worked on.

I've heard good things about Ez-wiring in their price and bang for the buck. A couple of friends have rewired old trucks and hot rods with their stuff and have been happy with it.


http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html

I've got an ez-wiring off road harness im getting ready to wire into my cj-5....all wires aer pleanty long enought and well marked...different gauge for whatever the wires run too.....i'm no wiring expert, but i think i'll be able to handle it.

Ya bastids.
I'm too damn cheap to buy something I can make. Even if it takes too much time and comes out like shit. :homer:
Actually, I kinda enjoy wiring. Its cool to take your time, solder and shrink wrap it all, use the correct fittings, and know its done right.
I decided on my own color scheme based on some standards, and what made sense to me.

Red - hot (duh)
Orange - switched hot (get it?)
Brown - parking lights (pretty standard, I was told)
Green - right directional (standard trailer)
Left - yellow directional (ditto)
Brown - doubles as low beams (same circuit)
Orange - doubles as high beams (makes sense to me at least)

Running 14 gauge for most stuff to be safe.
Maybe if I don't burn down the truck I'll post some redneck wiring tech.

my only thing, is i've seen rigs on the trail burn and catch fire because of something that got to hot, shorted a wire...something to that effect, and i just didnt want them to be talking about me....dont want my white jeep lookin like a struck match....if you can do it, by all means, post some good tech...

i've seen rigs on the trail burn and catch fire because of something that got to hot, shorted a wire

Umm, yeah, that was almost me. :shaking:
Mine was from chafing.
Too hot, shorted wire is from lack of fuse protection (amongst other issues)
I'm going to address both.

btw, lets see that m715......

With the old Gladiator grill

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff153/nhfxrs/DSCN8874.jpg

Grill gone, brush guard back on

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff153/nhfxrs/DSC04866.jpg

With sexy new bed bob

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff153/nhfxrs/DSC04867.jpg

you're at least starting with a new fuse panel, right?

switched hot is almost always YELLOW

If you are looking at doing three of these, I'd consider the money to buy one EZ kit and make two more harnesses based on that. Yeah it's a few bucks, but it makes sure everything is done right so you don't set your girlfriend on fire from improper wiring.

So $160 bucks and a day and a half. And I've got quite a bit of wire left for the next one. I'll try to round up pics.
I appreciate the advice to buy a kit, but that's not me.
-My application is a bit unique (M715, 360, 12 volt, bobbed, wanted to utilize stock switches)
-I would much rather make something than buy it. Not just because it's cheap, but I enjoy it.
-I'm cheap.

you're at least starting with a new fuse panel, right?

Umm, yes. And in-line fuses at the battery. And redundant wiring for high load/long run wires (ie. seperate left and right headlights, tail lights, etc). And minimum 14 gauge wiring, soldered and heat shrinked. And looms, grommets, etc for any possible chafing points.

makes sure everything is done right so you don't set your girlfriend on fire from improper wiring.

See above. I place her well being for above my own, thanks.

Sweet deal. Did you draw out your design before starting, or just hookup as you go? Do you keep a paper diagram for reference on the other two vehicles?

Yeah, a couple of times. This was key, because otherwise I would've been standing around scratching my head a lot, and it would've been way more of a rats nest when finally done.
I've done wiring freestyle before. :homer: Doing the homework is definitely worth it.

For reference I used a stock wiring diagram, and a diagram for the Signal-Stat directional switch I'm using.
I drew out a preliminary diagram using these and what I wanted.
I made notes on it as I went, about changes and such, and made a final diagram afterwards that I'll stick in a zip-loc in the glove box. From this I'll lay out the next one.

I was going to suggest making a diagram as well.
When I re-wire I always start with a diagram showing where the wires will go and colors. You don't want to get 1/2 way into it and figure out you need something else, or forget where something is going.
Lay the wires out where they go to cut for length and pull them all back out to tie together or to put in loom.

what gauge is recommended for what applications? Battery to switch, switch to fuse panel, input to brake switch/flasher, light feeds, etc.

Found this table that I thought would be useful: http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

It has them listed both by current and by power requirement, so you can just use the wattage of the bulb or whatever else you are wiring. If you don't know either of those, you can just take the resistance across the object and divide 12V (or 13.9V or whatever your alternator is putting out) by that number to give you the current required.

I agree with you that wiring can be fun. It's technical but just requires time and patience.

Good luck!!