im slowly planning a d44 hp axle swap for my 05 f150, id like to keep my rear axle the 9.75" so i dont have to deal with swaping over the vss bull $hit. it should be plenty strong for my application, mud and some trails + 38-40" rubber. my question is, can i get axle shafts for the 44 with the factory ford 6 on 135mm bolt pattern so i can keep my stock brakes and not have to change the rear around? i dont remember what year my buddies 44 is out of, but its a ford with radius arm, so at least the pumpkin is on the correct side.
thanks matt.

38-40 tires are going to kill a dana 44. As for bolt pattern 6 x 135mm, I would call some of the custom shops. Currie, dyna track, solid axle... Ask them about getting something made with that lug configuration.

I would look into swapping a dana 60 / 10.25 into your truck. It makes more sense all the way around. Or, maybe even a newer dana 60 / 10.50 with the metric pattern. You can get those things for cheap.

Either way, the vss will still work. The 10.50 can be had with discs as well.


I would seriously lose the dana 44 idea though. If you have the money to hack an 05 f-150, you should have the money to do it right the first time.

I don't see why a decent machine shop couldn't re drill a stock dana 44 hub/rotor to the metric pattern, if the wheels are hub centric it may cause an issue though. To avoid issues re drilling a 5 lug hub/rotor to six lug I would start with 6 lug chevy stuff.

I like the idea of using the super duty axles, pretty tough, reasonably cheap, I wouldn't be surprised if one of the aftermarket companies could easily re drill a set of rotors and unit bearings for the six lug metric although I think using the matching rear and going to 8 lug would be better in the long run for parts availability. Speed sensors in the super duty axles would keep your vss issues away(and antilock issues also IIRC).


Brewchief:D

38-40 tires are going to kill a dana 44. I would seriously lose the dana 44 idea though. If you have the money to hack an 05 f-150, you should have the money to do it right the first time.

x2

Don't waste time with a D44 for that much tire, unless you're just trying to see how many axle shafts you can break on simple trails.

ok ok i dont want the 44 my self id love to get a d60 but i can get a hp d44 for 200$ and ive never seen a 60 go that cheap, it would have to be kingpin and drivers side offset. my buddy did a 44 swap in his chev 1500 and its holdin up ok on 38's http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn140/fx4_613/Blenhiem/offroading157.jpg

:laughing:

swaMp thing.


Id do a 60/10.50 out of a superduty. That way the axles are as new as the truck, plenty of options, and usually you can get both axles for what one 90s HP 60 would cost. Plus, superdutys have a shitload of wheel options.:eek:

:laughing:

swamp thing.




Fixed.... :lmao:

Fixed.... :lmao:

damn it!:flipoff2:

I don't see why a decent machine shop couldn't re drill a stock dana 44 hub/rotor to the metric pattern, if the wheels are hub centric it may cause an issue though. To avoid issues re drilling a 5 lug hub/rotor to six lug I would start with 6 lug chevy stuff.

I like the idea of using the super duty axles, pretty tough, reasonably cheap, I wouldn't be surprised if one of the aftermarket companies could easily re drill a set of rotors and unit bearings for the six lug metric although I think using the matching rear and going to 8 lug would be better in the long run for parts availability. Speed sensors in the super duty axles would keep your vss issues away(and antilock issues also IIRC).


Brewchief:D

im pretty sure the newer ford 6 lug pattern is different than the chevy 6 lug....

why dont you just run different rims front and back? who really cares

im pretty sure the newer ford 6 lug pattern is different than the chevy 6 lug....



I'm sure also, it is easier to redrill a rotor that has the same number of lugs however, just drill in between them, no plugging required.

I'm sure also, it is easier to redrill a rotor that has the same number of lugs however, just drill in between them, no plugging required.

agreed. drill between them. They are a new metric BS pattern. :shaking:

so if i went with superduty axles, does anybody know if the the rear vss and the front abs would just plug in or would i still have to modify them a bit, the reason i want to swap the front axle only is im working on a very tight budget and if i only have to buy one set of axle shafts that would save me alot of money.