The time has finally come to start building my `97 Tacoma, 2.7L 5 speed

This was the day I bought it
http://www.texasoffroad.net/galleries/lonestar/album546/DSC00748_001?full=1

I broke the spider gears in the front diff Feb `08, welded it back up and then broke a CV shaft in Katemcy last October

Previous Mods:

Seats from a Saturn 3-door
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album546/DSC01407.sized.jpg

Quick Release Door Hinges
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album546/DSC01421.sized.jpg

Tuffy Stereo Console + loud stereo equipment
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album546/DSC04131.sized.jpg


The parts list:

3.5" front springs from a solid axle Toyota
63" Chevy Springs
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album546/DSC00128.jpg

High Pinion Ford D60 Front
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album546/D60_Front.jpg

D70U Rear, H2 Wheels
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album322/DSC01155.jpg

5.13s, Detroits, and High Angle Pinion Flanges
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC00007.sized.jpg

Also not pictured, using a PSC single ended ram for Full Hydraulic steering and will be getting their pump and reservoir kit

The Build
One of my buddies is more well equipped to tackle a project like this so it'll be taking place in his garage...

I got the gears installed this week and i think I have all of the parts to completely rebuild the both axles; new calipers, brakes, bearings, seals, etc

My buddy worked on it some today - bolted on leaf springs, drilled the knuckles for heims
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/P1010588.jpg

Steering Ram installed
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/P1010593.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/P1010590.sized.jpg

Tacoma will be disassembled hopefully next weekend and get a front crossmember made

i'll keep you updated

this is gonna be a good one, i can already tell! :smokin:why 5.13's though??

why 5.13's though??
what would you have used?

two reasons why thats what i went with:

1. the 60 came with 5.13s and install kit as part of the sale, and i got a helluva deal on all of it...

2. would've like to go 5.38s but couldnt find anyone that makes 'em for the 70...didnt want to go to 5.86s or whatever the next step is in it

its lookin good... but not as good as that OH SO SEXY KUSTOM rattle-can black ranger-based P.O.S. in your driveway... and the saturn seats are wicked cumfy... i'm gonna copy you

what would you have used?

two reasons why thats what i went with:

1. the 60 came with 5.13s and install kit as part of the sale, and i got a helluva deal on all of it...

2. would've like to go 5.38s but couldnt find anyone that makes 'em for the 70...didnt want to go to 5.86s or whatever the next step is in it

what size tires you gonna run? i wouldnt run anything less than a 38.5 on the big dana stuff and a 5.13 wouldnt push that around too well? anything smaller and id stick to toyota parts and 5.29's...im running 6.17s and daily drive it and travel on the freeway(40'' tires)

What other plans do you have for the build? And X2 on tire size.

he is running 37 inch goodyears

5.13 won't be too bad with only 37's. But if I was you, I'd also look into a crawler for wheeling.

you still have the factory rear spring's? 97 taco

He does but they are not any good. I think he is going to run some 40s or so latter and do a crawl box or an atlas.

Tacoma rear axle for sale
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00002.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00008.jpg

Busa got all the IFS out in one piece - anyone wanna buy any of it?
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00012.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00029.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00030.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00033.jpg


sitting on all four...plans changed in progress, found some 4" TG front springs cheap, and will be changing to 5" rear TG springs, it sits low in the back even with a 2" block under the chevy springs.

still to go:
replace rear springs
oil pan swap
p/s reservoir mount
reinstall radiator
probably have to shorten the rear driveshaft
buy/build new xfer case xmember
long travel front driveshaft
figure out front brake lines - stupid Ford uses 3/8" banjo bolts
plumb rear brake lines
try to adapt D70 to Tacoma e-brake setup

What other plans do you have for the build? And X2 on tire size.

those MT/Rs are 37"s, i've had 'em for a while and they're super out of round.

As far as future plans go, I'll probably keep a set of 37"s on the H2 wheels for if i'm driving around it around town and probably get a set of 39.5" TSLs on beadlocks for wheeling.

I know i'll need a crawl box in the future but havent really looked into it just yet. I dont think I want to stack cases just to avoid having to do extensive interior floorboard modifications. I've looked at the inchworm "Lefty" but thats about it. Something along those lines, and like Busa said, maybe an Atlas. But before that happens the next expenditure (hopefully very soon) will be on a trailer.

Will be bobbing the bed soon after the truck is complete.

Also will be building an interior cage with exterior portion in the bed over some sort of seating arrangement, similar to the Macho Taco because I also have a tiny human being that I would like to take wheeling.

Also need some sort of bumper apparatus for front and rear, and some sliders.

its all just an endless god damn money pit, but worth it in the end.

I am McLovin this build! good work man! Take lots of pics of the cage build!

I have a spare tranny and tfer case if...when you blow those out.. ask me how i kno..

good luck on the build man..lookin good..

For Sale:
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC00094.sized.jpg
its all still there, hubs and the good CV have had dibs called, but feel free to get in line and make me offers

tonite's progress:
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00036.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00040.sized.jpg

looking good

i've searched because i know i've seen it on here before but cant seem to find where...

What do I need to do w/ this thing w/o anywhere to plug it into?

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00040_1.sized.jpg


we've reached the point tonite where everything is just slow and tedious. got the front brake lines re-flared to adapt from Toyota to Ford brake lines, am going to be able to use stock Ford lines with the hardline run to the bottom of the frame. still need to cut down the rear hard lines to make it look a little better and get em up outta the way.

need rear shocks and tabs welded on the rear axle. am probably going to run 'em to the stock location.

getting the ram back to PSC to be de-stroked 1" tomorrow

TG rear springs will be in on Monday according to UPS, and once they're installed will need to have the driveshaft shortened a couple of inches.

hopefully I'll have the ps pump pulley by the time i get my driveshaft done and be able to drive it home next week.

found it: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748421

i'll see if capping 'em gives me the same problem as the last guy on pg 1, and post results if the response on pg 2 works

i've searched because i know i've seen it on here before but cant seem to find where...

What do I need to do w/ this thing w/o anywhere to plug it into?

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/PSC00040_1.sized.jpg

SUBSCRIBED.:p

pay pal sent for the CV and hubs

did a little work last nite. got the oil pan swapped out, all fluids filled (axles, engine, radiator, and steering). Got it started up and cycled the steering to try to get air out...still has a small bit. Steering works very well. Dropped off the driveshaft this morning to be shortened.

plugged the two vacuum hoses above and truck ran just fine.

should be able to drive it home this week, all thats left is install driveshaft and bleed the brakes. will still need to fab/modify transmission crossmember and work out a front driveshaft.

I like it, looks great

drove it home last Friday...full hydro takes some getting used to...

the g/f followed me home, she called and asked why I was driving so slow...apparently the speedo is off...it said i was going 65 when she was behind me in the Dodge going 55...didnt expect that. anyone know a fix? just replace the speedo gear in the transfer case?

cut about 4" off the bottom of the rear of the bed sides and bobbed 13" out of the bed...got the sides welded up inside and out, working on welding the floor back together, but those cuts didnt come out as straight, so it sucks. 13" was perfect to be able to use the rear crossmember bolt as the rear most bed bolt. still going to need to do a bit of body work to make it look decent.

pics

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00224.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00226.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00228.sized.jpg

Tip: After you chop the bed sides, don't step on the tailgate...:rolleyes:
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00229.sized.jpg

Leonidas kick for the win!
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00269.sized.jpg
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00270.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00276.sized.jpg

we cut just inside 13" and finished out the rest w/ the grinder to make it line up
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album563/DSC00284.sized.jpg

Still to go:
Shocks F/R
Modify transmission crossmember
Build Front Driveshaft

Almost done...ish... :grinpimp:

Very Nice :smokin:

Well, i've still got some stuff to do thats necessary: d-ring tabs on the rear bumper, add rear shocks, sliders, cage, etc...and some thats "optional": D60 chromo shafts...and all the rest of the pipe dreams we all have...

I gave $4000 for the truck in 2005 and here's a list of just about every dime i've spent on the truck with the exception of gas and oil changes. I didnt always take the cheapest route possible but got some pretty good deals along the way. Just thought I'd give a general idea of what one might be looking at to get through a similar build. All the little stuff adds up quick, fast and in a hurry. I've still got some stuff to sell that I bought and never used, but that will probably add up to less than another $500 to be recouped.


37" MT/Rs..........................300.00 Busa
H2 Wheels..........................200.00 Colman
39.5" Iroks on H1s...............1400.00 Scott Lyday
750 Watt Power Inverter.......59.53 Sears
True Flow Air Filter...............26.30 Yah-Te-Hay
Saturn Seats.......................54.00 Junkyard
Seat Belt............................110.83 Yah-Te-Hay
Tuffy Lock Box.....................245.00 Yah-Te-Hay
Pioneer CD Player .................204.03 Best Buy
400W MTX Amp....................270.61 Circuit City
10" MTX Sub........................81.17 Circuit City
Stereo Install Parts...............50.49 Circuit City/Radio Shack
Polk Component Speakers......184.01 Circuit City
Q-Form Kickpanels................84.00 Online
Uniden Pro510XL CB Radio......39.95 Sparky's CB Shack
4' CB Antenna......................15.99 Flying J Truck Stop
CB Antenna Cable..................9.99 Loves Truck Stop
Antenna Hardware and Spring..10.00 Pilot Truck Stop
VC Gasket & Tune Up............76.78 NAPA
PCV Valve...........................3.56 O'Reillys
Ford HP Dana 60..................750.00 Rob
Front D60 5.13s...................200.00 Rob
Front D60 Master Install Kit....150.00 Rob
Front Leaf Springs................165.00 Some Guy
63" Chevy Leaf Springs..........70.36 Junkyard
Toyota IFS Gearbox..............135.31 Junkyard
Sky Pitman Arm....................100.00 Pirate
Toyota Axle Flange...............75.00 Pirate
D70U Rear...........................131.38 Pick-N-Pull
FUKKING TAIL LIGHTS............47.00 Ebay
D60 / Toyota Flanges............232.00 High Angle
Rear D70 5.13s....................212.00 Ebay
D60 Spindle Socket..............16.23 O'Reillys
Ball Joints...........................101.71 O'Reillys
Install Ball Joints..................89.00 Kwik Kar
D60 Wheel Seals..................10.80 O'Reillys
Turn Signal Mod...................13.50 O'Reillys
D60 Calipers........................75.76 O'Reillys
D60 Banjo Bolts...................14.61 Ford
D70 Wheel Seals..................19.46 O'Reillys
D70 Brake Shoes..................25.97 O'Reillys
D70 Spindle Socket...............27.92 NAPA
Red Top Optima...................108.68 Interstate
Battery Terminals.................3.88 O'Reillys
Wiper Blades.......................19.01 O'Reillys
Hydro Steering....................1,336.34 PSC
Misc Steel..........................43.99 Metal Yard
D70 Detroit.........................550.00 Ron's Machine (Ebay)
D70 Master Install Kit...........150.00 Ron's Machine (Ebay)
Front D60 Detroit.................565.00 Ron's Machine (Ebay)
D70 Diff Gasket....................4.32 O'Reillys
Rough Country Bushings.........68.85 Rough Country
Set Gears...........................429.68 Fort Worth Gear
Oil Pan Conversion Kit...........225.00 Sky
Frame Tubes.......................30.00 Sky
Rear Spring Kit....................129.00 Sky
Ford Shock Mounts................42.98 Dealer
Shock Tabs..........................12.50 DIY4X
Rear Spring Perches...............21.64 4WPW
Engine Oil/Filter/Paint.............69.78 O'Reillys
Gear Oil/Antifreeze.................58.33 O'Reillys
P/S Fluid, Fitting....................15.67 O'Reillys
Ford Brake Lines....................34.54 O'Reillys
Shorten Rear Driveshaft .........150.00 Fort Worth Gear
Front Leaf Springs.................150.00 Rodney
Rear Leaf Springs..................385.00 Trail Gear
Rear Shock Tabs ..................8.00 DIY4X
Rear Disc Brake Conversion.....140.00 DIY4X
Rear Disc Brake Brackets.........50.00 Ruff Stuff
GM Caliper R..........................11.99 O'Reillys
GM Caliper L..........................11.99 O'Reillys
Rear Brake Pads.....................22.99 O'Reillys
Brake Proportioning Valve.........35.00 Summit
Brake 2lb Residual Valve...........15.00 Summit
GM 1-5/16" Master Cylinder......15.99 O'Reillys
Brake Fluid and Caliper Bolts......16.20 O'Reillys
Banjo Bolts.............................9.72 O'Reillys
GM Master Cylinder Adapter.......39.00 Sky
GM to Toyota Line Adapters......24.00 Sky
Tacoma Full Width Shackles......85.00 Sky
Paint and Body Filler................21.07 O'Reillys
Body Filler..............................3.78 O'Reillys
Misc Nuts/Bolts.......................24.19 Ace Hardware
Shipping...............................133.82 Various
PayPal Fees...........................28.49 PayPal
IFS Leftovers........................(34.80) Scrap Yard
37" MT/Rs and H2s................(300.00) Cody Hughes
Toyota IFS Gearbox..............(135.00) Brannon Gragg
265/75-16 BFGs...................(450.00) Rowdy Smith
Toyota Hubs/CV...................(75.00) Jeremy Mercer
Toyota Axle Flange...............(115.00) Zack Zimmerman
Tacoma Rear Axle.................(105.00) Manny Rodriguez
TOTAL............................10,174.88

I've also bought a 16' car hauler for $1000 and put about $500 into getting it back up to par

this thing has a lot of good parts. what happened to the 63 chevys for out back? did you not want to use them cause of the length? the truck looks good, just really tall, like 4" to tall.

x2 on the tallness!! good lookin truck tho!

this thing has a lot of good parts. what happened to the 63 chevys for out back? did you not want to use them cause of the length? the truck looks good, just really tall, like 4" to tall.
pretty much...i wasnt going to be able to bob as much as I wanted using the 63" chevys...springs are still not broken in and will hopefully settle a little, its 26" to the frame...and it wont look as tall with bigger tires

the g/f followed me home, she called and asked why I was driving so slow...apparently the speedo is off...it said i was going 65 when she was behind me in the Dodge going 55...didnt expect that. anyone know a fix? just replace the speedo gear in the transfer case?





there are 5 different speedo gears for the early Tacos. find out what you have (tooth count...stamped on the plastic gear). From what you posted you are about 16% off. If you have a 28t gear you can go to a 33t and get pretty darn close. If you have a 30t the 33t won't be worth the trouble...approx. 3% difference/tooth...
There are several writeups on the procedure on ttora faq/tech. under $30 shipped from trdparts4u.com

but...the only way to get dead-on accuracy is with something like the Dakota Digital box...$70 and an easy install. this also gives you the ability to re-adjust for larger tires in the future...something a speedo gear swap does not.

I totally agree with the above suggestion of 6.17s.
IMO you will hate life with only 5.13s and anything taller than a 35. ...and you will NEED taller tires...40s at a minimum for the 60/70 combo or you'll drag every rock on the trail...OE Taco diff with 31s has more clearance than a 60 with 35s ;)
I have 5.29s/35s and it is tolerable. A crawler will be a must for most anything hard...the 2.7 just doesn't have the guts to push these heavy Tacos (well over 4,000#, in my case) even geared. The old 22s seem to do better, LOL but the older trucks are lighter.

good looking build so far :D

Thx for the speedo tech, i actually hadnt looked into it because it hasnt been a huge concern but knowing that I might put it on the to do list.

I plan on going to a 40-42" tire in the future but will keep a set of 37"s for street...its not my DD but i do drive it quite a bit on the road which is part of why I didnt want to go as deep as 6.17s, the other part being questionable pinion strength.

Crawler box will come hopefully next spring. I havent done a whole lot of research yet but will probably go with either a 3 speed Stak or 4 speed Atlas.

Thx for the speedo tech, i actually hadnt looked into it because it hasnt been a huge concern but knowing that I might put it on the to do list.

I plan on going to a 40-42" tire in the future but will keep a set of 37"s for street...its not my DD but i do drive it quite a bit on the road which is part of why I didnt want to go as deep as 6.17s, the other part being questionable pinion strength.

Crawler box will come hopefully next spring. I havent done a whole lot of research yet but will probably go with either a 3 speed Stak or 4 speed Atlas.

with that size tire you will definitely want 6.17 AND a crawler.
either Marlin or Inchworm are options as well...plenty strong for the 2.7, even with that tire size. Jeff has been running 44s for years and the only thing he breaks on a regular basis are 35sp cromo D60 axles :p

I have 5.29s/35s and it is tolerable. A crawler will be a must for most anything hard...the 2.7 just doesn't have the guts to push these heavy Tacos (well over 4,000#, in my case) even geared. The old 22s seem to do better, LOL but the older trucks are lighter.


wtf u talkin about the 2.7's walk all over the 22r's even with the weight difference

wtf u talkin about the 2.7's walk all over the 22r's even with the weight difference

not mine...I think my motor sucks :p
fipk, LCE header, 2.5" exhaust from the header-back, etc.
When I had 4.88s/35s I couldn't keep up with an old Runner with a 22r, header, etc...on 37s, on a hill...even downshifting... :shaking:

He had some other internal LCE mods, however, so that may have been the big difference.

Thats crazy, ive had a bunch of both and the 2/3rz's are wayyy better. My current 2wd DD will run 90mph in 3rd...lil thing is amazing!

hoping to get some input from ErikB on brake upgrades here...others are appreciated as well

I had to get the truck to pass inspection about a month ago which meant disassembling the rear brakes (drums) to hook up the parking brake. at the same time replaced both rear wheel cylinders as one was leaking when i did the swap...the other was just old. realized that the reason the truck had been stopping so well was because the rear shoes were adjusted WAY too far out, and now with not quite 3,000 miles since the swap those shoes are at least 50% gone. got them adjusted properly and realized that the brakes aren't as good as I thought they were so i'm looking to upgrade.

been over to ErikB's brake page and did some math:
Factory setup: 1" MC and assuming 1.685" dual piston calipers = 5.678:1
Current setup: 1" MC and 2.25" dual piston calipers = 10.125:1

1. Judging by comparison pictures, and also since the truck has a 1" dia MC, I think that I've got the dual diaphragm booster, can anyone verify this?

2. I plan to order the GM adapter from Sky and my master cylinder options are 1-1/4" and 1-5/16" ...this gives me the options of ratios:
5.878:1 with the 1-5/16" and
6.480:1 with the 1-1/4"...
should I go with the 1-5/16" since it yields a ratio closer to stock or the 1-1/4" to give a bit softer pedal?

3. Would it help in the interim to remove the return line and LSPV or should I just wait?

4. Do the stock hardlines move sufficient volume to accommodate all the bigger parts?

5. How will any of this change if I later decide to swap over to rear discs? Will the master cylinder need to be changed? I'm sure with a proportioning valve it shouldnt be an issue but should I go ahead and install that while I've got the system taken apart?

check my math and make sure everything looks right, Thx

1. Should be

2. Your math seems off here?
Dual 2.5" pistons would be 9.82 square inches of piston surface area.
1-1/4" master has 1.23
1-5/16" master has 1.35

9.82/1.23 = 8:1
9.82/1.35 = 7.27:1

So I would guess the 1-5/16" master would be the better match.

3. Installing an adjustable prop valve can make a good improvement over the stock LSPV in a stockish setup with big tires, I'd assume the same in your case.

4. Stock hard lines are fine.

5. Use small calipers relative to the front to help with proportioning and so that they require less fluid (less pedal travel/firmer feel). S10 front/ Montecarlo/Cadillac rear style 2.5" calipers might be a decent match, but a lot of people use D44 type with 1-ton fronts.
Master size really shouldn't change for rear disks if you are happy with how the fronts perform, and yes I'd go ahead and install an adjustable prop valve now.

2. Your math seems off here?
Dual 2.5" pistons would be 9.82 square inches of piston surface area.
1-1/4" master has 1.23
1-5/16" master has 1.35

9.82/1.23 = 8:1
9.82/1.35 = 7.27:1

So I would guess the 1-5/16" master would be the better match.

Thx for the input

Hate to correct the master, but gotta make sure you read correctly...

I read on here somewhere that the calipers were dual 2-1/4", so thats what I did my math with, not the 2.5" that you used....but I called the parts store and they told me that the caliper rebuild kit calls for a 2-3/16" piston so that changes it up again...

My math as follows:

[3.14159*(2-3/16" / 2)^2]*2pistons = 7.5165 sq/in Total Surface Area

Current Ratio w/ Toy 1" MC (0.785 sq/in SA) >> 7.5165/.785 = 9.570:1
Ratio w/ GM 1-5/16" MC (1.353 sq/in SA) >> 7.5165/1.353 = 5.556:1
Ratio w/ GM 1-1/4" MC (1.227 sq/in SA) >> 7.5165/1.227 = 6.125:1
Ratio w/ GM 1-1/8" MC (0.994 sq/in SA) >> 7.5165/0.994 = 7.562:1

Judging by your chart and your experiences with ratios 6.8:1 and 5.5:1 I would think that the best option would be the 1-1/4" MC at 6.125:1, halfway between "Pedal feels a little bit soft" and "Pedal was high and somewhat hard" and still be able to get good braking with both. Currently running 37"s and will eventually be going to 40"s.

Thoughts?

Thx

Sounds like you've got it figured out. I guess I misread the 2.5"...
I agree, I'd probably go with the 1-1/4", but if you think you might need/want more power later with the 40's, then the 1-1/8" might be better.

What are your brakes like now? I'm guessing soft with lots of travel? Probably strong unless the pedal bottoms before you can lock them up? I would think anything bigger on the master would be a major improvement in pedal feel, even the 1-1/8" even though it might still feel soft by "stock" standards.

I think Paul/Booger was running 7.3 ratio (1.25" master GMD60 calipers) with a dual booster and said it was very strong with his 40's.

yeah, after getting the rear brakes adjusted properly the pedal is really squishy and its almost like the rear brakes are non existent. it does a pretty strong nosedive if i stop quickly.

first step toward fixing it is going to be the new master cylinder and proportioning valve to replace the lspv. the master cylinders are cheap enough from O'Reillys that i might just try both and see what I like. the 1-1/8" is A1 Cardone part #10-1521, $15.99, the 1-1/4" is 10-1534, $15.99, and the 1-5/16" is 10-1584, $21.99.

if that doesnt solve it and make me happy i'll probably be going to rear discs. i generally dont have a problem with drums although they're heavy, its unsprung weight, and they last a long time which for me kinda negates "the hard to work on" argument...but they are :grinpimp: which makes it hard to pass up. Cant really seem to find any options for the D70U that look any better than the Diy4x kit...anyone have any other options?

Is there a particular ratio of piston surface areas I should shoot for between front and back? Just tryin' to decide what looks best on paper between D44 or S10 calipers. Both of those are relatively cheap ($12ea for D44, $10ea for S10) so I might be able to try that both ways as well. What year specifically should I be looking at for S10/Monte Carlo calipers? The D44 calipers I read are 2-15/16" pistons and I think I saw that the S10 calipers are 2-3/8". can someone verify this?

Also, i've been looking at threads about the Eldorado calipers so I would have a parking brake, but because of the mixed reviews (and price of the calipers) I think i'd like to stay away from them...is an electric line lock such as this one (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-760002/) a viable option instead?

I'm not sure what good front/rear ratios should be, but I have heard that the front does around 80% of the work. Maybe more for taller rigs like ours.
I have D44 up front and Montecarlo (sky) rears, which works out to a 58% front bias, and I have to max out my prop valve to keep the rears from locking too early so I want to try something a bit smaller for the rear like the Davez Toy caliper setup.

I've never heard good things about the e-brake calipers.
You don't want an electric line lock for a parking brake. They are only designed for short duty cycles (racers doing burn outs to heat up their tires, etc.). Use a mechanical one if you go that route. I think the Mico lever lock is one example.

I found this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353843&highlight=taper) thread a couple weeks ago and it inspired me to finally do the dovetail on my taco...used the laser level idea attached to some garage door supports. the different wheel wells on the Tacos vs. the old Toy p/u's made mine a little more interesting and had to patch some voids that were left when I cut it, but I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. The original plan was to take out 9" but I think at some point using a 1/2" wide stick to draw a straight line I marked on the wrong side so it turned out to be 8.5". Used a razor to cut the bedliner and it pulled up fairly easily once I got it started. Sprayed over the finished product with undercoating, which I found matched the bedliner really well when I used it after the bed bob. Sectioned about 1.5" out of the filler neck at the straight piece just below the taper and spliced it back together with some filler neck hose and clamps. Was also able to reuse the fender supports to keep those things from wiggling around. Tailgate ended up at 37.5" and it fits and closes very securely, just need to add a little body filler and hit it with some paint. On to the pics...

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00852.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00866.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00873.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00885.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00896.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00898.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00904.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album720/DSC00911.sized.jpg

Well I finally got everything gathered up to swap to a one ton GM Master Cylinder and decided to go ahead and do the rear disc conversion. It was an adventure to say the least...

For the rear discs I ordered the bracket kit from Diy4x first. Its a pretty sweet setup.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01068.sized.jpg

I got everything disassembled and got the drums taken off the hubs. The rotors went on pretty easily and fit perfectly.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01072.sized.jpg

I tried and tried but couldnt make the brackets work. I eventually figured out that their brackets and flanges wont work on my D70U. Even cutting off the factory flange, the flanges provided wouldnt go on far enough to allow for everything to go together right. So, talked to Kert and he said I could send back the flanges and brackets for credit and keep the rotors.

Next I ordered the D70 Brackets (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/d70-disc-brake-bracket-ford-d70-p-214.html) from RuffStuff. They fit perfectly, and after I had checked one side for fitment, painted 'em and tried to put 'em on. Realized that I had been sent two brackets for the same side, and since they're bent, and drilled for the rectangular pattern of the factor flange they cannot be swapped side for side. Called and talked to Dan, who was super easy to deal with. Rather than try to figure out which side I needed he sent me another set which he said he'd go pull himself to make sure I got the right ones. I got those within a couple of days and was able to get everything put together. Super simple, and really pleased with looks and ease of service. Used brake lines from a `76 Dodge D100, p/n BH188255, they're about 15" long. Had to grind down the heads a bit to make 'em fit on the calipers, but simple and they fit nicely.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01135.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01136.sized.jpg

I got the GM master cylinder adapter kit from Sky. Their adapter is made for a master cylinder p/n 10-1584, which is a 1-5/16" bore, and has a deep hole in the end for the pushrod. I had decided with the help of ErikB to go with a 1-1/4" (p/n 10-1534) which has not much more than an indention for the pushrod, so this required modifying the pushrod included with the Sky Adapter. Took a bunch of measurements and finally figured out that the pushrod, which comes as a 1.75" extension, only needed to be between .485-.525" so I cut it down, and drilled the end to make it .510". It was a pain in the ass, but everything bolted together nicely.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01140.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01141.sized.jpg

Removed the factory LSPV and the front/rear sharing brake line, got the T plugged where it was removed from. Plumbed in a summit proportioning valve.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01137.sized.jpg

took it for a test drive and brakes worked amazingly for a short bit...need some advice on troubleshooting...was sitting at the gas station waiting for my buddy pushing on the pedal, nice and firm, and then it felt like something gave and the truck started idling rough. The pedal got SUPER hard and the truck didnt want to stop. Made it back to the house to find an apparent vacuum leak coming from the bottom of the master cylinder. I pulled the vacuum hose off the booster and blocked it off with my finger and the idle smoothed out, and the leak from under the master cylinder stopped. Did my booster die? Is there anything I could have put together wrong to cause it?

sounds like its just the booster....good work though either way so far man

Booster problem for sure. If something wasn't set up right and the push rod went out too far, it could come out far enough to leak. Hopefully its something easy like that...

I finally got around to getting a new booster yesterday, just got it pulled apart and found that the push rod extension had diflected which i'm sure caused the pushrod to extend too far...

question is...how do i keep the pushrod from diflecting again? i'm kinda assuming it needs to be just a hair longer maybe the max length i figured before of .525" (which is only a difference of .015"), but also think it needs a couple other mods: on the booster end of the pushrod extension i think it would help to drill a smaller hole inside the bore, just the size of the end of the pushrod so it seats better. Secondly, maybe put a sharper tip on the master cylinder end to keep it seated into the master cylinder better...

thoughts?

well i got everything put back together and it all seems to work well. I drilled a 17/64" hole in the center of the extension on the pushrod end to approx the depth as of the nipple on the pushrod. This definitely helped keep the extension captive. With the other end, rather than making it rounded like it comes, i put a slight tip on it and matched the contact surface as close as I could...no problems yet.

also picked up a set of 39.5" Iroks on H1s. swapped from 4" to 5" front springs and got my Sky's full width shackles put on.

4" Trail Gear front springs for sale...pm me

pics later

Finally got to go wheeling...went up to Clayton, OK yesterday w/ my buddy Ryan. We ran Green Mamba Extension and Black Sheep. Extension went pretty well but the top of the waterfall at the entrance to Black Sheep gave me some problems, basically just slipped off a rock to the left and got myself in a bad position. No major problems, but towards the end of the day had issues with the front driveshaft pulling apart, so I'm gonna need to get a long slip kit from Marlin I guess.

Pics:

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album723/DSC01227.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album723/DSC01233.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album723/DSC01238.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album723/DSC01270.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album723/DSC01295.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album723/DSC01320.sized.jpg

the rest of the pics can be found here:
http://www.texasoffroad.net/galleries/lonestar/album723

Sweet lookin truck! Nice work on the fab.

I just realized that I never posted up pics that I got my xfer case crossmember in. I dont have a completed pic with the xfer case skid plate installed, and these two were taken with my phone, but you get the idea.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/IMG00074_20100512_1752.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/IMG00075_20100512_2102.sized.jpg

the kit was really easy to install and everything fit pretty much perfectly. I do have to say that I was a bit disappointed that after the 1st trip to Clayton the skid plate barely had a scratch on it...stupid tall...

overall adding the two made the truck feel a whole lot more rigid, and solid which I really like. I still havent cut the factory xmember off, and dont really see the point. it doesnt get in the way of anything and seems like it could protect the aluminum transmission a little extra. I probably will eventually cut off the driver's side bracket thats still there, but I think the rest will stay 'til i replace the xfer case and need to make flat belly.

I did end up making a last minute square driveshaft. its got about 6" up travel and 11" down travel, so if it pulls apart i've probably got bigger issues to address. I havent really noticed too much vibration or noise, and its functional, so I'm satisfied for now.

lastly...on our last trip to Clayton I realized that I had somehow gotten there without the keys... :homer: :rolleyes: after a little dash disassembly we were able to remove the key cylinder with the help of a cutoff wheel and from there just took crossing a few wires to figure out what would make it run. A buddy of mine had an extra push button in his toolbox which I wired to the starter wire, and put all the rest on a single toggle for the weekend. I got home and cleaned it up a bit, wired the accessories to one switch and ignition and fuel pump to another. put the push button in the factory key hole in the dash and got it all assembled cleanly...now its ready to go at all times, no need to worry about forgetting my keys again. :shaking: I also plan to add a kill switch elsewhere to prevent thievery and mischief.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/2010_11_12_01_54_18.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/2010_11_14_22_30_38.sized.jpg

Also, I've got a few trips on it now and havent had any major issues. I bent 3 leaves in the right front spring pack the last trip out, but know what needs to be done to keep that from happening in the future. I also blew up a lockout on a day trip up to Bridgeport OHV park a while back. I got different set of factory lockouts from a buddy of mine and didnt have any problems the most recent trip to Clayton. The ones that I got to replace the blowd up one are made a whole lot better and seem a lot stronger than the ones that came with my axle.

Still to come: sliders, cage, rear shocks, replace front shocks and have pretty much decided that I'd like to eventually go with an Atlas.

Well I finally got everything gathered up to swap to a one ton GM Master Cylinder and decided to go ahead and do the rear disc conversion. It was an adventure to say the least...

For the rear discs I ordered the bracket kit from Diy4x first. Its a pretty sweet setup.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01068.sized.jpg

I got everything disassembled and got the drums taken off the hubs. The rotors went on pretty easily and fit perfectly.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01072.sized.jpg


I tried and tried but couldnt make the brackets work. I eventually figured out that their brackets and flanges wont work on my D70U. Even cutting off the factory flange, the flanges provided wouldnt go on far enough to allow for everything to go together right. So, talked to Kert and he said I could send back the flanges and brackets for credit and keep the rotors.

Next I ordered the D70 Brackets (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/d70-disc-brake-bracket-ford-d70-p-214.html) from RuffStuff. They fit perfectly, and after I had checked one side for fitment, painted 'em and tried to put 'em on. Realized that I had been sent two brackets for the same side, and since they're bent, and drilled for the rectangular pattern of the factor flange they cannot be swapped side for side. Called and talked to Dan, who was super easy to deal with. Rather than try to figure out which side I needed he sent me another set which he said he'd go pull himself to make sure I got the right ones. I got those within a couple of days and was able to get everything put together. Super simple, and really pleased with looks and ease of service. Used brake lines from a `76 Dodge D100, p/n BH188255, they're about 15" long. Had to grind down the heads a bit to make 'em fit on the calipers, but simple and they fit nicely.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01135.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01136.sized.jpg

I got the GM master cylinder adapter kit from Sky. Their adapter is made for a master cylinder p/n 10-1584, which is a 1-5/16" bore, and has a deep hole in the end for the pushrod. I had decided with the help of ErikB to go with a 1-1/4" (p/n 10-1534) which has not much more than an indention for the pushrod, so this required modifying the pushrod included with the Sky Adapter. Took a bunch of measurements and finally figured out that the pushrod, which comes as a 1.75" extension, only needed to be between .485-.525" so I cut it down, and drilled the end to make it .510". It was a pain in the ass, but everything bolted together nicely.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01140.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01141.sized.jpg

Removed the factory LSPV and the front/rear sharing brake line, got the T plugged where it was removed from. Plumbed in a summit proportioning valve.

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album301/DSC01137.sized.jpg

took it for a test drive and brakes worked amazingly for a short bit...need some advice on troubleshooting...was sitting at the gas station waiting for my buddy pushing on the pedal, nice and firm, and then it felt like something gave and the truck started idling rough. The pedal got SUPER hard and the truck didnt want to stop. Made it back to the house to find an apparent vacuum leak coming from the bottom of the master cylinder. I pulled the vacuum hose off the booster and blocked it off with my finger and the idle smoothed out, and the leak from under the master cylinder stopped. Did my booster die? Is there anything I could have put together wrong to cause it?

Im getting ready to do the samething with my brake system. When you put the extender rod between the master cylinder and brake booster did you have a gap? I was messing with mine this weekend and put the MC up to the booster and there was about a 1/4" gap between the 2 with the rod in place. i adjusted the little nut on the rod coming from the booster but there was still a gap. Im think if i installed it and tightened everything down there would be pressure all the time. Not sure if that was normal or not just didn't look right?:confused:

im posting so i can find this again for the brake info :D plus this thing is pretty sweet. nice job

Im getting ready to do the samething with my brake system. When you put the extender rod between the master cylinder and brake booster did you have a gap? I was messing with mine this weekend and put the MC up to the booster and there was about a 1/4" gap between the 2 with the rod in place. i adjusted the little nut on the rod coming from the booster but there was still a gap. Im think if i installed it and tightened everything down there would be pressure all the time. Not sure if that was normal or not just didn't look right?:confused:

I didnt have any gap...and...it depends on what MC you're using. i didnt use the same one thats recommended by the kit bc I wanted a softer pedal (as calculated by erikB's website) than I wouldve gotten with the 1-5/16" MC. I only used about 1/4 of the rod thats provided because of the different indention in the MC I chose to go with. just measure everything as many times as you can, i used a set of calipers and figured it to about .005". the measurements I used are in my previous posts, but they'll vary depending on how you have the end of the plunger coming out of the booster adjusted.

im posting so i can find this again for the brake info :D plus this thing is pretty sweet. nice job
happy to be a point of reference...and Thanks!

Ill have to look when i get back up to the shop but i believe it's the 1 5/16" MC. i got it from one of the guys on the board here i never bought it from sky so i'm not really sure what i have right now. From what i can see the only adjustment is the little nut on the end of the brake booster. I'll mess with it this weekend. Thanks for the info though!