i want to make my own tie rod using some dom tubing and some heavy duty TRE's....im still using the stock dana 30 up front and my tie rod is bent, which is why i want to replace it without spending alot of money....

What size tube should i use?
Where should i get the threaded rod ends?
What thread should the rod ends be?
What TRE's are the best heavy duty wise?

this is new to me as i have never made a tie rod or drag link and want to learn...so help me out!!! PLEASE!!!!

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

I get mine from Parts Mike. Great service and quality parts!

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=1419&action=show_detail

To make your own 1 ton steering you will need the following:

Chevy Tie rod ends and drag link (1 each of the following part numbers) get them at NAPA.
#ES2234R
#ES2027L
#ES2026R
#ES2233L

You will need to drill and ream out your knuckles, drag lik, and pitman arm to accept the new 7* taper.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/reaming.gif

Follow these instructions:

http://jcroffroad.com/install_guides/1tonsteering.pdf

Buy yourself some DOM tubing 1.5" OD / 1" ID and get the 7/8-14 LH and RH thread adapters ( 2 each hand) from here:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/78quot-14-tpi-Tube-Adapter_p_1403.html

Dont forget to buy 2 LH and 2 RH 7/8-14 thread jam nuts.

Weld and assemble. You should get a couple of the urethane anti-roll bushings for the tie rod ends at the knuckles to eliminate the up/down roll of the tie rod. You will need to remove the grease boots from the toe rod ends before you install the spacers.

Get them here: (middle of page)

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=S6

When your done it should look like this:

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll61/pastrick/Todds%20Jeep%20Build/DSCN0847.jpg

fantastic!! Now the part numbers that you gave for the tie rod ends and the drag link ends are the same for a CJ correct? Also where is the best place to get a reamer??

Also what about my steering stablizer?? Will i be able to put one back on? or will it not be needed??? I would love to get going on this this weekend but im going to dallas so im going to order all my parts so they are waiting for me when i get home

fantastic!! Now the part numbers that you gave for the tie rod ends and the drag link ends are the same for a CJ correct?
You will be drilling and reaming out the OEM tie rod end holes so yes, this setup will work on any application. You can choose to drill and ream from the top side of the knuckle if you want to do an "over the knuckle" setup but it would require other modifications for clearance.

Also where is the best place to get a reamer??

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=8153&group_ID=946

or for a much better quality one

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ball-Joint-Tapered-Reamers,2918.html


Also what about my steering stablizer?? Will i be able to put one back on? or will it not be needed??? I would love to get going on this this weekend but im going to dallas so im going to order all my parts so they are waiting for me when i get home.

If you run a lift and have not replaced your trac bar (if you have one) with an adjustable one as well as a drop pitman arm you will probably need to figure a way to adapt a steering stabilizer. Your trac bar and drag link should be at the same angle when sitting level. If this condition exists I would try it without a SS and see if the mighty death wobble comes to haunt you !!!!

Good Luck !!!!

i dont have a track bar on the front of my CJ, so im gonna have to find a way to adapt the steering stabalizer i guess

You will be drilling and reaming out the OEM tie rod end holes so yes, this setup will work on any application. You can choose to drill and ream from the top side of the knuckle if you want to do an "over the knuckle" setup but it would require other modifications for clearance.


Besides clearance what's the down side to this? I'm wondering if these TREs can handle it if mounted in that position because if you come down on your steering wouldn't it try to pop the TRE off the ball?

Besides clearance what's the down side to this? I'm wondering if these TREs can handle it if mounted in that position because if you come down on your steering wouldn't it try to pop the TRE off the ball?

The Tie rod ends up being quite a bit higher. I suppose it is possible but these rod ends are pretty tough. You could always sway the TRE's out for heims at these two locations. Just a significant cost increase. Depends what your looking for!!!!

Here is a pic of an over the knuckle.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/OTK1tonsteering.jpg

The Tie rod ends up being quite a bit higher. I suppose it is possible but these rod ends are pretty tough. You could always sway the TRE's out for heims at these two locations. Just a significant cost increase. Depends what your looking for!!!!

Here is a pic of an over the knuckle.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/OTK1tonsteering.jpg

Thanks, I have the ballistic fab kit in my garage waiting to go on and as soon as I find a reamer I'm going to do the flip style install you just posted. My old Currie steering is toast.

I was also just going to order the Ballistic fab Kit...however im unsure of which one to get...the Y type, or the cross over type? Its an 83 CJ with a Dana 30 in the front...

I used DOM tubing...not sure on the wall thickness... I beleive its thicker than 1/4". Took solid stock and turned them down on the lath to make slugs that I pressed into the tubing and spot welded. Used heim joints and called it good :)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Plato2k5/steering2.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Plato2k5/steering3.jpg

do you ever drive your on the street? how are the heim joints with normal driving conditions if you answer yes to the last question?

I do drive it on the streets. I have had no issues since I did this .... 2 years ago?

Only complaint is bump steer due to the angle. Doing a Hi-Steer conversion would fix that though. Or if I bent the bar that goes to the pitman arm to fit under the leaf.

It really isn't legall because of the welded link, but I have had no issues.

So how exactly do i go about measuring for the rod length? Can i not just cut a piece of tubing the same length as my stock one, throw the 1 ton ends in it and call it good? Then obviously adjust toe in and out and what not....i dont really understand the whole measuring eye to eye becasue if i cut the tube that length i would have no adjustment in the TRE's

So how exactly do i go about measuring for the rod length? Can i not just cut a piece of tubing the same length as my stock one, throw the 1 ton ends in it and call it good? Then obviously adjust toe in and out and what not....i dont really understand the whole measuring eye to eye becasue if i cut the tube that length i would have no adjustment in the TRE's

Buy the tie rod ends, threaded inserts, and jam nuts listed above. Get your tires as straight as possible. Measure the center to center distance of your existing knuckle TRE to knuckle TRE. Thread the jam nuts and threaded inserts all the way onto the knuckle TRE's then back them off 1/2" and lock in place. Lay them out on the floor and space them center to center at the distance you measured from the current setup. Now measure between the two weld flanges on your threaded inserts. This will be the length to cut your tie rod DOM tube.
As for the drag link rod you will first need to install the new tie rod and ream out both the pitman arm and drag link. Install the jam nuts and threaded inserts onto the last two TRE's in the same fashion as above. Install the TRE's hand tight into the drag link and pitman arm. Center your pitman arm in the middle of your steering travel. Measure the distance between the two weld flanges on the threaded inserts. This will be the length to cut your drag link DOM tube. Weld all threaded inserts into the DOM tube. Make sure you keep the TRE's threaded into the inserts (turning the threads back and forth occasionally) while you weld them in but dont get any spatter on the threads. Paint, install, and adjust for toe in and steering wheel position.

your directions are top notch...i ordered most of the parts and because im leaving for dallas on friday this will have to wait, however ill take some good pics and post them up to verify that i did it all correctly...

Thanks A Lot i really aprreciate it!!

Where's the pics? Looking forward to see how this turned out.

i saw a thread on colorado4x4 about some custom steering done, make sure you use a castle nut and the little dealy that goes through the hole to secure it, a guy had his done without that and heims and it came loose causing lots of trouble. i have also heard to use misalignment spacers with heims instead of washers, i am not trying bash anyone's steering and ive never even built one so i am no expert but that is what i read, heard the story and saw the pictures, it was scary

i saw a thread on colorado4x4 about some custom steering done, make sure you use a castle nut and the little dealy that goes through the hole to secure it, a guy had his done without that and heims and it came loose causing lots of trouble. i have also heard to use misalignment spacers with heims instead of washers, i am not trying bash anyone's steering and ive never even built one so i am no expert but that is what i read, heard the story and saw the pictures, it was scary

Do what?

I understand what your saying about the dealy (Carter Pen) the goes in the castle nut, So the nut does not back off. But there many ways to prevent that. I used a lock nut and gray locktite on my heims.

As far as High Misalignments instead of washers makes no sense, at least non that I can think of. High misalignments allow for a greater angle in the joint, The only thing you need them on is the drag link, As for the tie rod it will stay at the same angle now matter what so no need there, If you used them on the tie rod the roll in the steering would be terrible if your drag link is tied to the tie rod, If not it would just be a waste.

If using heims be sure to use a washer larger than the ball joint in the heim, This will help if the heim fails the wash might allow you to still steer.

Here is what I did,

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm279/burrellsjeep/008-1.jpg?t=1239151576http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm279/burrellsjeep/007-1.jpg?t=1239151807http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm279/burrellsjeep/009-1.jpg?t=1239151840

Link is in my sig, My steering build is on the first page

Where's the pics? Looking forward to see how this turned out.

well sadly my jeep is still sitting with a bent tie rod...i have been living extra frugaly right now, because work is very slow and i was just waiting for a lay off....well i finally got it. Its only a week lay off but right now who knows it could turn into more....im thinking i might just do it easy and cut the ends off the tie rod and resleeve it...that will be cheap and stronger then stock....ill post pics and updates as the money starts a flowing again

That sux Mike. I hope you get your paycheck coming in regularly in a week. I pretty much followed this link to build up my own drag link and tie rod for the d44 in my CJ5 out of some 1.5 od/.25 DOM and heavy duty tie rod ends from Harsh Terrain. Total price for both was $100 for the DOM and $92 for the rod ends, and $32 for the weld in 7/8-18 bungs. Everything was going great and they are beefy as hell. I feel like my welding skills are novice, at best, so I took them down to a guy to weld them up for me. I left the rod ends in the DOM so the threads wouldn't warp and let him go to town. He mig welded the Drag link, no problems...came out great. We started talking about tig welding and he said he could do the tie rod that way. I said sure, I would love to see that. So he did, and the weld is absolutely beautiful!!! Problem is it made the DOM much MUCH hotter than the mig welding did and it fawked up the rod ends melting the poly piece inside of them. So, I did save the $40 on the weld up job, but now I have to order up some new tie rod ends. Live and learn. So, add in another L and R rod end for a total of $46 and the total for both is $270. So, without the welding fiasco $260 about covers them.