Has anyone had issues with the floating 2 piston calipers used most typically on the 4x4 frontiers, pathfinders, and xterras built around this time frame (99', 00', etc.)?

I want to get quad piston calipers (like Toyota's) but can't find anything applicable.

I am capable of machining custom brackets but was wondering if anyone knew of a simpler solution.

I'm trying to beef up the brake system so it can handle 33" tires better and from what I've noticed, the OEM brakes struggle a bit when off road or on mountain highways. I installed Baer slotted and cross-drilled rotors to help with heat dissipation and they seem to hold up well.

Anyone have any ideas that don't involve spending $2000 on a brake kit?

Well, this weekend I tried lining up a toyota (99' Tacoma) 4 piston caliper to see if it would be possible to make a bracket for it. Unfortunately the spacing between the slot for the rotor and the bracket location falls right in line with where the mount on the steering knuckle lies. Which means I would need to either cut away at the steering knuckle or at the caliper, wich basically throws that idea out the window. Not to mention that the slot in the caliper that fits over the rotor is too small, the Nissan rotor is thicker than the Toyota.

I'm going to look for 4 piston calipers by Nissan and see what I can come up with.

Z32 300ZXs used 4-piston calipers, but why so against floaters? the C5 Z06, M3, NSX, and many other sports cars all use floating calipers.

My primary reason is 4 piston calipers are more rigid. My main goal is to optimize the brake system so it can handle the increased tire size in conditions where the brakes are put to the test (mountain roads, off road etc.) I guess the obvious answer would be to increase the rotor size and brake pad/caliper size all together.

Going for a 4 pot could quite possibly be a backward step. I was going to fit the 4 pots out of a Q45 to my Patrol but the 1 pot caplipers on it have a great surface area and therefore greater stopping power. Remember that with a floating caliper you double the piston area to get true area so unless the 4 pot caliper pistons are actual bigger than the 2 pot then there is no advantage.
FYI I have 35" Simex (basically similar to a Swamper but directional) and mine has passed brake tests with nothing more than good pads and new rotors.

The more and more I read about this I am begining to agree that a 4 piston caliper that is rigid isn't necesarily better than a floating two piston. So what I'm going to look into instead of the caliper is a good design/quality rotor.

I should also add that my truck has a turboed 4.5 l Nissan V8 and has been dynoed with 375 rwhp (about 530hp at the flywheel) so I do tend to need good brakes:eek:

Yeah but how much power the truck has, has nothing to do with how good the brakes need to be. The important factors would be the vehicle weight (overall and on the front wheels), the center of gravity location (vertically from the ground and horizontally with the wheelbase), and the tire diameter. Couple these factors with the speed of the vehicle when the brakes are applied and then its a game of reducing inertia.

If you rock crawl with this thing then the brakes aren't thermally stressed as much as they would be if you were racing around with it.

The concern I have isn't related to the vehicles ability to stop occasionally at low speeds, it does that fine. The problem arises when the brakes have been fatigued over time (such as on curvy mountain roads) where you are constantly braking from higher speeds and at different road inclines.

To conclude this question, I think I have found a proper solution (let me know what you think).

- Replace the brake lines with SS to maintain better fluid pressure
- Get rotors that are vented and slotted but still have a good amount of material so they can absorb heat more efficiently
- Ultimately look into converting the rear brakes to disk (they are drum at the moment).

I do winch challenges which are somewhere between rock crawling and desert racing with everything in between so speeds of up to about 100mph are done sometimes. As an idea it is easiest say it is like a rally in that you have stages and drive them against the clock but they are designed so that you can't drive them so will have to winch in points. So some places winching and other up to 100mph. It means that everything on the truck is a compromise between strength and speed. The truck weighs around 2000kgs (4400lbs) and has about 50:50 wieght distrubution as the winch, batteries etc are at the rear. Also it only has 3" higher than factory suspension (but twin shocks, hydraulic bumpstops etc) and a 2" body lift.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj131/nzdarin/Rainbow-Darin10.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj131/nzdarin/4wdnorwest2009002a.jpg

Anyway back to your problem. I've fitted SS braided lines all around and that made quite a difference. Definitely a good upgrade and a safety item as well. I've torn out brake lines and that aint fun!
I would never consider drum brakes as been adequate for anything at all. You would have an H233 diff in the rear I assume and if so then it is what I'm running but with factory vented discs.
Slotted rotors are good for clogging if you are in the mud at all but really just having a big vented disc seems to be better when off road. Unfortunately what is idea for brakes has to be compromised when you start including mud into the equation. If you gets drilled discs then it is vital that the holes as cast and not drilled. Drilled holes cause stress points and can fracture if you drive into water (or mud) when hot.
So what I have to deal with when racing is pretty extreme and gives a pretty wide experience in driving conditions as well.
My advice would be to get good vented disc all round before you do anything else. Replace every rubber hose with a braided line and run a good high temp fluid. Make sure you have any load sensensing value etc adjusted correctly. I've actually removed mine as I run a constant loand so it isn't required. Just getting the rear working can have an amazing effect on the braking ability.
This shouldn't cost much and will have a huge impact on stopping abilty.
Fitting massive Brembos 6 pots maybe the ultimate but in reality the handling isn't good enough to be able to use the stopping power anyway.

i read that entire post with my best Kiwi accent/impersonation. :D

Wow... Yeah good brakes are definately needed with what you do.

I do have a H233B axle in the rear but it has factory drums. I'm not familiar with the steps required to convert the rear to disk but if there is a kit available for it I would definately be interested.

Upgrading the brake lines to SS will be my first step.

Thanks for your help darinz.

i think the rear can be converted to disc with all stock nissan parts off of a pathfinder.

i would also like to upgrade the front, i seem to smoke pads and rotors often.

Yeah I've got a 93 V6 Pathfinder that also has vented discs in the rear and is a H233 as well. Probably the easiest way to upgrade.

PS The Pathfinder is being built as my next toy! Just trying to sort out a front end that will handle the HP and big tyres!