I got a CJ7, looking to swap axles. I already got built scout axles sitting in my garage, but I have to widen the front spring hangers to run it. Is there any axle that will go into a CJ7 (1 ton, 1/2 ton?) without frame modification?? I had a bid to get that front axle on and it was $1500! Without steering even.

If I do have to modify the frame, what would be the best way? Make it myself? I know BTF has a full width kit, which would work. But I have a welded on custom bumper already so it will be a job for sure.

If you want to go one ton, I'd outboard your springs. You can buy these outboard kits, or make your own. What it does is move your springs outside of the frame rails to allow for the wider perches on one ton axles. You may get lucky with some J-20 axles, but im not sure what they run width wise. Also, most of the one tons you will encounter are set-up for SOA, so be prepared for that one. Hope it helps, lets see some tons!!! good luck.

If you want to go one ton, I'd outboard your springs. You can buy these outboard kits, or make your own. What it does is move your springs outside of the frame rails to allow for the wider perches on one ton axles. You may get lucky with some J-20 axles, but im not sure what they run width wise. Also, most of the one tons you will encounter are set-up for SOA, so be prepared for that one. Hope it helps, lets see some tons!!! good luck.

I found a set, D60 rear, D44 front, and they look narrow (60" WMS). Waiting for the call back. I can get a picture of my bumper to show you want I'm talking about, I am not sure as too how I would outboard the springs with my setup???? I also want to keep it cheap, under $1000 to get the front completely under, steering, everything.

EDIT: And the set I found came off a CJ8. I started another thread aksing if they frame width was the same, in the case the back will be bolt on, just need to figure out how the CJ8 owner had the front mounted.

I found a set, D60 rear, D44 front, and they look narrow (60" WMS). I am not sure as too how I would outboard the springs with my setup???? I also want to keep it cheap, under $1000 to get the front completely under, steering, everything.


Just search "outboard" you'll get plenty of options...the CJ7 and 8 have the same frame width...if your paying to have someone fab and install an outboard setup you're budget is gonna be busted. Take $500 of that $1000 and buy a mig welder and a chop saw.
No need for two threads that are directly related.

Just search "outboard" you'll get plenty of options...the CJ7 and 8 have the same frame width...if your paying to have someone fab and install an outboard setup you're budget is gonna be busted. Take $500 of that $1000 and buy a mig welder and a chop saw.
No need for two threads that are directly related.

Very wise, I deleted the other one.:p

I'm going to shoot a picture of my bumper, yes it would be simple to do it, but my problem is the damn bumper. Let me get a picture.

PS: Why I am considering a swap is to run 36x13.50R17 Iroks. I am affraid my D30 with chromos will break otherwise.

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq207/2003_ram/P4150166.jpg

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq207/2003_ram/P4150167.jpg

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq207/2003_ram/P4150168.jpg

I don't want to hurt or get rid of the bumper, so how should it be done?

Okay here's the skinny, you guys tell me if this is a good deal.

8 year old Currie D60 rear: 60" wms, 5 5.5 bolt pattern, ARB, 4.11's, disks.

Front: D44, 60" wms, 5 5.5 bolt pattern, 30 spline outers, 4.11 gears, ARB.

It will cost me $2200 to get them. They are bolt on to my CJ7. The front is castered 6 degrees.

To me this seems perfect, and my lack of welding skill, well, its kind of what I need.

Whatcha think? Jump on it?

PM sent

For that price, you should be all over them.

For that price, you should be all over them.

Really? I am considering maybe only buying the front, and then using my scout rear. The scout needs an ARB, spring pads, and shock tabs, but then its good to go.

Consider the price of upgrading the 44, compated to what you can buy the 60 at. It's going to be close to the same, and for a weaker axle. After I bent my 44 rear shaft with my CJ5 on 35's I'm not so into semi floaters anymore. Go for the 60 and don't bother beefing up a weaker axle, you'll be happy you did in the future.

Consider the price of upgrading the 44, compated to what you can buy the 60 at. It's going to be close to the same, and for a weaker axle. After I bent my 44 rear shaft with my CJ5 on 35's I'm not so into semi floaters anymore. Go for the 60 and don't bother beefing up a weaker axle, you'll be happy you did in the future.

Okay, yes I thought of that, and I figured to use my D44 I would be out around $1000. -$800 for ARB, $200 labor for pads.

Thing is, I want to run my 34's a little while longer, not "have to" switch to bigger real soon (cash comes monthly). So if I got the D60, what tire do I need to clear that diff? I got 305/70R17's. I will go to 36x13.50R17 Iroks or 37x13.50R17 Boggers within this year. To go anything over a 35" though I have to buy flate fenders and cannot have an inner wheel well.

So lets say I buy the whole combo, throw the D60 on, throw the D44 on, and run the 34's. Will I be able to do much?

Also what's the weight difference we're talking here? 100 lbs from a D44 or D60? And remember I am running a D20 t-case, whats my odds of busting it pushing the D60 compared to the D44?

As said above, go with the bolt in's. The scout axle is way weaker and you'll run into a bunch of costs to set it up if you can't do it yourself. A $1000 rear scout d44 is not a good deal or money spent wisely.

I doubt you'll lose a ton of clearance vs. the D44 either. If I could do it all over and only do it once it would have saved me a ton of $$$$$.

for that price, you should be all over them.

x2

I am running a D20 t-case, whats my odds of busting it pushing the D60 compared to the D44?


no different for either rear. i had a d20 behind a 400hp smallblock and a 12 bolt rear and i never broke either. most say "it can't be done" this and "you'll break it that" but you'll be fine with that t-case

The 20 is nearly if not as strong as the 300. As said above, you could put all the money into a weaker axle, or upgrade now and not waste all that cash polishing a turd for when you get bigger tires. I actually bent one of my Scout 44 rear shafts with my CJ5, 258, and fiberglass body with 35's. Needless to say I will not be upgrading it anymore, just skipping that step and going to a bigger axle.

The 20 is nearly if not as strong as the 300. As said above, you could put all the money into a weaker axle, or upgrade now and not waste all that cash polishing a turd for when you get bigger tires. I actually bent one of my Scout 44 rear shafts with my CJ5, 258, and fiberglass body with 35's. Needless to say I will not be upgrading it anymore, just skipping that step and going to a bigger axle.

Yep same here. A little different specs, but I found the front scout 44 bent when I did a SOA and then bent the rear scout 44. When I pulled the shafts both splines were twisted as well. We narrowed a chevy d44 (much thicker tubes) and I had a spare rear housing & shafts so I trussed it and put them in until I can get some chromo's (only done for $$ right now).

Well hate to say it, but I looked at it, and it was a joke. The front was torn in pieces, and was only 56" wms. I want at least 60" wms.

The rear was 56" wms also, but at least it was together and complete. I didn't buy either, I can find a better D60 rear for the $1500 (yes $1500, not $1300) he wanted for it.

I am thinking of taking my front D44 to a shop and having them lengthen the pass side tube and shorten the drive tube. This way it will line up with my frame. The front driveshaft will be off roughly 1-1.5" to the driver side, but shoulden't be enough to affect drivability.

You guys saw the bumper I got, and that I don't want to cut. So here are my two options I see in regards to keeping my bumper.....

1. Have the front scout cut so I can use it.

2. Get a GM 10 bolt and shorten it to 60" wms to match the rear scout axle I have.

Option 2 is cheaper but weaker, option 1. would run me $1500 I am expecting.

What I am going to do is go and find a good deal on 36" tire (probably Bias Iroks or LTBs, TSL's) and run them on my jeep until I break. I always hate fixing whats not broke, and once I break with 36's (hell, even if I do) then I'll upgrade.

Pick the axles you really need/want and modify the bumper. Don't let the bumper hold up the program.

Well I was browsing the classifieds here on pirate and wholy toledo there are a ton of ads for bolt on CJ7 setup axles. So I will go with that. But like I said, first comes tires, when I break it, then I'll fix it.