Ok, for the past two weeks Retard and I have been working on his SAS 1998 Ranger, we are sooo close to being done!

Here's the problem were having...

*Stock 98 RANGER PS PUMP (had IFS RACK AND PINION)
*1978 Scout Steering box

We keep blowing out the aluminum caps at the end of the box, Our BUMP stops ARE SET! And yet still keep blowing caps...

what gives?

Anyone else had these problems?

Any sugestions?



Im thinking the next resourt is to swap in a scout ps pump, maybe the ford pump has too much pressure, causing the caps to crack???

Or maybe we should go to FULL HYDRO RAM setup, except, my only wories is about freeway "HIGH SPEED" STEERING, will it work?

How much does a hydro ram setup cost?

:usa: THANX YALL! HAVE A GREAT LABOR DAY!!!

call AGR and buy their billet AL cap for $50. It won't crack.

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
call AGR and buy their billet AL cap for $50. It won't crack.


Yah but whats gonna be the next point of failure?

You know, instead of replacing the entire pump, you could go out and install a hydraulic pressure regulator... Unless you're hellbent on making things implicitly more difficult...

:crybaby2:

go full hydro! you wont regret it, even on the highway. pm station he has some bad ass double ended rams for a great price.

Do not ever run full hydro of the freeway. There is no mechnical backup and any hose problem will result in complete steering failure.

Please don't go out and kill someone and smear all 4wheelers everwhere.

Originally posted by Chris Geiger
Do not ever run full hydro of the freeway. There is no mechnical backup and any hose problem will result in complete steering failure.

Please don't go out and kill someone and smear all 4wheelers everwhere.

excelent point!

Why the hell do these caps keep busting?

Originally posted by SMART ASS


excelent point!

Why the hell do these caps keep busting?

Did you piss off the IH gods? The Scout boxes rarely have trouble in stock config, I've beat mine to sheet, Josh torn his off the frame, but no of the crap you are going through. I'd swap in a new pump, you could have a stuck pressure valve in the pump. How does the steering feel, easier then a caddy? Have you rebuilt the box?

have not rebuilt the box, id say its steers nicely! on a 1-10 like a 7
10=caddy

Originally posted by jdjanda


Did you piss off the IH gods? The Scout boxes rarely have trouble in stock config, I've beat mine to sheet, Josh torn his off the frame, but no of the crap you are going through. I'd swap in a new pump, you could have a stuck pressure valve in the pump. How does the steering feel, easier then a caddy? Have you rebuilt the box?

Originally posted by Chris Geiger
Do not ever run full hydro of the freeway. There is no mechnical backup and any hose problem will result in complete steering failure.

Please don't go out and kill someone and smear all 4wheelers everwhere.

Chris, this is just something to think about. Have you ever seen a large crane drive on the street? I am about 99% certain they use hydraulic steering with no mechanical backup. I also know that some trailer trucks use hydro steering.

Originally posted by Madmarx


Chris, this is just something to think about. Have you ever seen a large crane drive on the street? I am about 99% certain they use hydraulic steering with no mechanical backup. I also know that some trailer trucks use hydro steering.

I have never seen a "large crane" drive on the street. :confused: Could you be talking about a bulldozer of some kind?

Anyway, I wouldnt use full hydro on the street either. Its just to big of a gamble. Also, if by trailer trucks you mean tractor trailers, almost all of them have hydro assist but I have never seen one with full hydro.

I think its just plain stupid to run full hydro on the street. If one line pops or your pump goes out suddenly, thats it, you better hope you slow down. Hope your brakes dont pull cause if they do at the very least your in the ditch.

Its just not a good idea when for a little more work you can have a perfectly safe hydro assist.

Is it possible that the fitting you placed in the end cap sticks past the concave portion of the dome more than 3/16 - 1/4"... If so when the piston comes to the end of its travel the 1" nut which forms the piston plug will hit the end of your fitting and shatter (or push the fitting out) the cap rather than bottoming out on the thick ring around the outer edge of the end cap. Check the broken pieces to see if you can find the mark of the piston plug on the fitting...

When I mocked mine up for the first time and ran it stop to stop with just the ram attached it began to leak from the end cap fitting, upon diassembly I noticed the fitting was really loose and a mark on the inside end of the fitting that matched up nicely with the piston plug. I ground down the fitting to be flush with the inside of the cap on version #2 and no leaks when at full pressure lock to lock...

Its worth a shot to check, who knows? :D

Matt

I dont think SMART ASS said he was running ram assist. But if he is then you may have a fix.

How long is the pitman arm you are running? Maybe it is too short and you are having to move the piston too far to get the knuckles to the stops. Or, maybe the other way around. What about the steering arms on the knuckles??? Stock? What axle? High steer arms? Lots of variables here, help us out.

Will the cap break if you only move the wheel a half turn back and forth? Was the box centered when you put the pitman arm on?

You just might have a fawked box. I boosted my pump and the presure was so high at lockup that I blew out the front seal on the pump, no damage to the box. I dont think it's a presure issue. Did subway give you any kind of waranty on that box?