Okay, I may get myself ripped for this, but nonetheless....

I've got a 31 spline 9" Ford axle in the back end of the Mantis.
Stock four-cylinder Toyota motor, grand total of 173:1 crawl (4.10 of that is in the axles).
I'm running 44" TSL's. Currently the truck has a rear LockRight and stock Ford van axles (not aftermarket)

I want to swap to a rear ARB, since I can't disengage the rear driveshaft in the Toy transfer case. That way I can put in a turn brake to help compensate for my nearly-an-aircraft-carrier girth.

I don't want to put in an ARB and then explode an axle in it, taking it out (I've already got a 9" ARB) of comission.

Mark Williams Ent. can't give me a definite answer, but they said their high torque (4340) axles, in a 31 spline 9" configuration, would likely fail the 1310 U-joints before the axles let go.

I specifically want the U-joints to be the weak link.

Any comments on strength of U-joints vs. strength of axles?

recently ,while doin some hard core wheelin in the driveway,I broke the 31 spline axle and it didn't even faze the 1310 .

factors: 4.0 litre,automatic,spool,5.46's and 36's at 5psi on dry pavement.

I have alot of guys running 1350 on the 9" because fixing stuff on the trail sucks- and they don't seem to have problems- jess

I was running the same rear end in my eb "9inch" with 1310 joints and thank goodness for Jesse cause I was eating those suckers up with 39.5 boggers like a morning donut. ... Never broke a rear axle..... Then when I went to 44tsls. I had jesse build me a fatty 1410 which I was never able to snap:( along with 35 spline shafts..

I say go with 1350 like jesse said if your gonna run 31 spline aftermarket shafts and 1480 with 35spline:)

jesse you need to make a 1610 shaft for the rear of the new buggy.... :)

Mike-

Guys... I'm not looking for a beefier driveshaft. I can't currently break the 1310's... so far, either the transfer case, or the rear axle, lets go before my cheezball 1310's do. Since I've now upgraded the transfer case, it's time to upgrade the rear axle.

I'm wondering if 4340 31-spline 9" shafts will be stronger overall, than 1310 driveshaft joints... once I can actually break the 1310's, I'll worry about upgrading them.

The other option that I'm kicking around, is chuck the 9" altogether, and go to an ARB 35 spline 60 rear... but I can't afford it, don't want the ground clearance loss, etc.... it's a lot easier to buy a single pair of 9" axles, than it is an entire 60 plus an ARB.

I broke 1310 u-joints before I broke a 35c :D Also broke them before I broke a 31 spline 8.8 (close to a 9"). However, I did break Mile Marker D60 locking hubs before I broke a 1310 u-joint :mad: Damn Milemarker :mad:

I think you'll be fine from my experiences. The 1310 should be the weak link before your 9" and t-case.

Originally posted by Snowball
I was running the same rear end in my eb "9inch" with 1310 joints and thank goodness for Jesse cause I was eating those suckers up with 39.5 boggers like a morning donut. ... Never broke a rear axle.....

here is your answer Scott

and I was running a v8

Mike-

Never broken a 1310 on two differant rigs with everything from a 35 flanged,which was systematically destroyed, to a 9" with 35 spline shafts.Must be doin somethin wrong:confused:

Originally posted by jeepmauler
Must be doin somethin wrong:confused:

Not GETTIN' IT!

:flipoff2:

Never been told that before:flipoff2:

How many of you people mutilating the 1310's are running leaf springs? I find that without spring wrap (4-link rear) the driveline parts last a LOT longer.
Scott's truck rarely bounces. It doesn't have enough power to. :flipoff2:

I think the u joint would be the weak link because you are running 4.10s. Bigger pinion is harder to turn than a little one.

Well... the current situation is:
Never broken a 1310 joint.
Not enough power to bounce (thanks :) ) much.
Driveline angles simply don't get ugly on something with a 120" wheelbase and linkage suspension.
Have broken a 31 spline stock Ford axle.
When that axle went, it exploded... took out one side of the carrier, the side gear, the carrier bearing, etc. Mucho damage. Unacceptably high damage level if it'd been an ARB--I can't afford to buy another ARB.

So I want an axleshaft that'll hold up to more torque than a stock Ford axle, but when it *does* break, I want it to break clean, not explode.

Am I asking too much? I'm willing to settle for an axle that'll simply withstand more torque than the 1310 joint (assuming zero joint angle) going into it, will. That's really what I'm asking.

And the related question (I guess I was murky about this before)... if I put MW (or Warn, or Dutchman, or....?) axles in it, will a 31 spline 4340 axle reasonably outlive (out-torque) a 1310 joint, or do I need to go 35 spline? I'm trying to avoid the thou$$$and-dollar-plu$$$ cash outlay that would come with a 60 center, ARB for it (I don't already have one--I already have a 31 spline 9" ARB center complete), but if it's just not gonna happen, I'll go back to bidin' my time and savin' my pennies.

i blew my rear 1310 in my eb with my 31 spline mosers and a full spool.. i was in 2 low with some heavy throttle coming outta a rut... if you didnt have the 31 spline arb allready i would go with a 35 spline.
peace
Jw

I run currie 31 spline's
I trash 1310's
that reminds me i need to call Jess and order a 1350 yoke, BTW jess has the best price on them too

try a 1310 UJ with the zirk in the cross. eg a spicer 153-x.

I would *assume* this style to be the weakest compared to the "lifetime lube" which I'll assume to be the strongest and the lube via the end cap which I assume would fall somewhere in the middle.

I broke a rear 1310 on my TJ when a control arm tore off the axle and the pinion rotated way beyond the limits. The downside was when the UJ broke it bent the ears on the rear part of the driveshaft and tweeked the pinion yoke too.

Even with the pinin Yoke and the female splined yoke it was less than $100 of damage. with spares it would be an quick and easy fix.

I go thru 1310's like jelly beans @ a candy store. No stock shafts yet.

apparently is a gettin it thing-

or maybe-

You rarely see aftermarket 31 spline axles break at the spline area with big tires. They almost always end up breaking near the outside of the shaft right at the wheelbearing, so your ARB should be OK.

I agree u joints break from axle wrap usually, not just torque alone.

if you consider the traction available at the rear tires to be the limiting factor in how much torque is in the driveline then with 4:10 the driveline would see more stress than with say 5.29's.

I think that is the way to go, use like a jamar single lever cutting brake with an ARB disengage button mounted to the shifter knob. That way you just pull the lever when you want to use the cutting brake instead of having to disengage the transfer case, set the line lock then reengage etc. Seems like it could be done much more smoothly in a competition environment and would be worth doing recreationaly. Does anyone already do it this way?

Originally posted by onetoncv
or maybe-



one tire Frier !!!

just like a rice burner..

hey Scott...I dunno the numbers but, you nneed to find out the torque specs on a stock shaft...a 4130 one, and a 1310 joint...

assuming the 1310 # will be its MAX then as long as it is 4.1 times lower that you axle you should be fine..


you could drill out a u joint to weaken it...OR use a steering shaft joint hahaha..

it all comes back to money...even if your ujoint broke 9 times out of 10 there would still be that one time when your arb gets taken out...so run it till it breaks and hope it lasts along time....

or spend the money now.....
personnaly since you have everything I would run it, (even though I don't like 9inches) don't buy shafts..save the money for a 35spline rear steer 60.....


I am sure that elf will come on hear and tell ya how cool rockwells are in a few..

Rockwells and 1410's, HELL YEAH!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
Rockwells and 1410's, HELL YEAH!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

bwahaha..

Scott, I run 1310's and know plenty of people that do the same with no problems, and trust me I'll take a driveshaft swap over a axle swap any day....your right, most break due to wrap....I like a simple designed fuse....