my t-case bolts on the long side mount come loose after hard riding. i have to stop and tighten them like 3 times throughout a day of riding. i'm running square drive shaft with d44's front and rear. i kind of think that it's cause of the driveshafts not being balanced and vibrating them loose. i also have rockyroad strenghten mounting arms that have the bolts for the mounts instead of the stock arms and bushings. anybody out there have this problem are any ideas. chris:usa:

Stay off Lower 2, it tends to shake things loose and even bend certain parts.:flipoff2:
If that doesn't work, what about some red Locktite?

i thought about locktite but i really don't know permenant locktite would be. i also thought about just using some thread tape to help tighten things up. it gets old having to stop and tightening it up. it can't be good just flooping around. not so much lower 2 as much as it is slickrock for me

I had my short-side bolts come loose once. They must have been loose, because I tightened the hell out them and haven't had the problem again. I think the Japs used a weak lock-tight on them from the factory, but I could be wrong. I agree with 350 though, give 'em a little of the red stuff.

alright give the newbie a lesson...red locktite? do they make it in other cool colors and how permenate would they be.

Depends on the color...read the package for details :flipoff2:

I put as long a bolt as possible ,red locktight ,if thats not enough drill and wire them.............
:D

I'd try blue LT first...my .02$

Let's be patriotic, I give a vote for white locktight :D

good ole safety wire.....:flipoff2:

Originally posted by psf4x4
good ole safety wire.....:flipoff2:

with your job i am not sure you are qualified to use safety wire:flipoff2:

i also agree with trying locktight first.

well, the same happened to me...

then one day the case was just haning on the drivers side... couldnt even get it out of 4hi, as the case would wobble that much...



locktight didnt cut it, finally a "dice" size part broke out on the pas. side (where the 4 bolts go in)... finally we made a brace out of solid steel... never had a problem again

alfred

Mine was loose - 1 time

careful putting too long a bolt in there. I used an aftermarket (regular m10) that was about 1/16" too long i thought it was tight in fact it had bottomed out.

Go to the parts store and in the "help" section is a package for water pump studs used to mount fans. There should be some m10s in there, then use red lock tight and dont worry about it...

or use a regular bolt w/green locktight and a lock washer, they do work...

-yag

In many applications, I´ve found that replacing the original screws with studs and double nuts does the trick.

Swab the studs down with red Locktite and run them in until they jam in the bottom of the thread. Let it sit for an hour or so until the Locktite sets up and then spin on the two nuts.

The principle advantage is that it´s easily dismountable.......

Mine used to work it's way loose all the time. I made a tcase mount that grabbed the three bolts behind the rear output flange and never had that problem again. I doubt loctite will help, think of how the t-case torques to the side trying to shear the bolts, that's what is working them loose.

We've had the same problem before. Happens a couple fo times and then the holes egg out so that the bolts won't stay tightened even with locktight.

A wraparound tcase mount solved it for us. Also solved our breaking tcase problem. With the mounting of the the tcase on that long arm side triangulated thru a wraparound style mount, it eliminates any problems now or ever again.

mine was loose the other day............. i just tightened them up again........ i think its still tight but i'm going to put locktight on them to be safe when ever i get some:flipoff2:

thanks for the reply's i'll probaly end up making a wrap around mount form the existing mount i have. haven't crawled under and looked yet but shouldn't be too hard. :usa:

Originally posted by billj
I´ve found that replacing the original screws with studs and double nuts does the trick.

Swab the studs down with red Locktite and run them in until they jam in the bottom of the thread. Let it sit for an hour or so until the Locktite sets up and then spin on the two nuts.






This Works Well.

I had the bottom 2 bolt bosses on the case break at SOR. Had only 2 high coming out, good stuff.

Now I've got one of rocky roads long side mounts, hopefully this with some studs, locktite, double nuts and a new casing will be able to go the distance.

Clean out the bolt holes good with carb cleaner to.. Ecspecialy if you ever put anit-sieze in them. I used antisize on a lot of stuff but it makes bolts fall right out for some odd reason.

step 1 : dont check bolts for 3 months of rubicon wheeling
step 2 : let roksamy drive your junk (thanks dychen!)
step 3 : wheel again , snapping off thread inserts on long side of case :flipoff2:
step 4: remove broken junk , loan dychen 4.16 case while dychen waits for roksamy to fix broken junk........must be nice , anyone else need zuki work done?!!?:rolleyes:

This ones for you Roksamy :flipoff2:

For the record:

Loctite, automotive applications 242=blue loctite-medium strength

262=red loctite- hi strength, may require heat to remove


Doubt you'll find any other loctite in automotive apps. Anti-sieze is great stuff, but more for stuff like exhaust where the studs may never come apart in one piece, good for starter and alternator bolts too, where the steel bolt likes to react with the aluminum , often stripping and leaving no choice but a helicoil. :flipoff2: