Been trying to get the duece.5 rearend ready. Ran into one big problem. The inner wheel is fawken rusted to the hub. I pulled the lug nuts off and the outer wheel practically fell off. Then I tried to pull inner wheel/tire off and NADA. First kicked it a couple times, then hit the tire with the sledge, then said fawk it and started beating the sh!t out of the wheel. Hit it a good 50 times all the way around and it laughed at me. :D Finally I pulled the axleshaft and pulled the inner wheel off with the hub still attached. Laid the wheel over and beat the crap out of the studs with the BFH. I can hear that damn thing laughing at me from here. The good news is that I got 2 rearends. But I'm afraid they're all going to be like this. Anybody else ran into this problem??

OK, i could yell at you, but i honestly was confused at first, too. I missed rockwell training day when i swapped mine in. And this has not been covered before. SEE THOSE SQUARE DRIVE LUG STUDS, THEY ARE ACTUALLY LUG NUTS... You need a square drive socket for a semi to get em off.

LOL, that's funny...

good luck now...

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
OK, i could yell at you, but i honestly was confused at first, too. I missed rockwell training day when i swapped mine in. And this has not been covered before. SEE THOSE SQUARE DRIVE LUG STUDS, THEY ARE ACTUALLY LUG NUTS... You need a square drive socket for a semi to get em off.

LOL, that's funny...

good luck now...

BAHAHA.......that's some funny shit. I feel much better now though.. So basically there is the outer lug nut, then the stud/lug nut, then another stud on the inside?? Thanks

yes, there are two lug nuts. Also, another pointer, the studs on one side are left-hand thread. But you prolly noticed that taking off the first set of lug nuts. Good Luck!

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
yes, there are two lug nuts. Also, another pointer, the studs on one side are left-hand thread. But you prolly noticed that taking off the first set of lug nuts. Good Luck!

BAHAHAHAHA....don't tell anybody..but I had only gotten the passenger side off so far. That explains my troubles with the driverside. Is the front axle the same, drivers LH thread, pass. RH thread?? Thanks for answering all my DARN (dumbass rockwell newbie) questions.

don't tell anybody

uhh, i think the secret is out... although you and i seem to be the only ones looking at this thread, huh? the front could be either way, cause rockwells can be used either way. There really is no drivers'/passengers until you get em in the rig. You can run em backwards/forwards, whatever. You'll figure it out.

And i don't mind answering newbie ?'s about rockwells. Spread the disease!!

Originally posted by elf_cruiser


uhh, i think the secret is out... although you and i seem to be the only ones looking at this thread, huh? the front could be either way, cause rockwells can be used either way. There really is no drivers'/passengers until you get em in the rig. You can run em backwards/forwards, whatever. You'll figure it out.

And i don't mind answering newbie ?'s about rockwells. Spread the disease!!

I'm lookin' and LMAO, but trust me, you're not the first one.:D

well i see you have found the answer, but of course if its still rusted to the hub you could try heat. OR WD40/PB Blaster. but hit it with heat first, if you lube it then burn it, the oil carbonizes in the area and makes it even more solid.

HEAT FIRST, OIL LATER

I was there when elf did all this to his so I got to learn the easy way but you should never have that problem anyway because you should just be using two front ends and flipping the carrier in the rear. LMAO. The whole time I was reading that I was laughing, thatnx for that uplifting post. HAHAHAHAHA:rolleyes: :flipoff2: :D

Originally posted by convertiyota
BAHAHAHAHA....don't tell anybody..but I had only gotten the passenger side off so far. That explains my troubles with the driverside. Is the front axle the same, drivers LH thread, pass. RH thread?? Thanks for answering all my DARN (dumbass rockwell newbie) questions.

I'm reading and if it makes you feel any better, the first time I had to change a tire on a Dana 70 I broke 4 of the 8 lug studs off with a 4 foot breaker bar before I figured out it had right hand and left hand threads!! DOH!! :emb2: Can't always know everything! :D

None of you noticed the direction of the helix on the threads? I'm not trying to give folks an "I told you so" but sheesh. Perhaps it's time to take up knitting or something?

Originally posted by MR4WD
None of you noticed the direction of the helix on the threads? I'm not trying to give folks an "I told you so" but sheesh. Perhaps it's time to take up knitting or something?

Made fun of by "MR4WD" if that is not a personal all time low I don't know what is. :flipoff2:

I would never actually recomend that any body do this, but I have HEARd of this remidy for frozen on wheels:
Leave the lug nuts on, but loosened a few threads. Now drive around the block a couple times:D
An old trick from the heavy truck world.
Sounds like a winner for the Darwin Awards.

Those particulare "square nuts" are called thimble nuts around my shop...They are a PITA IMHO it takes 2x longer to take the wheels off the drive axle and trailers than normal 33mm stud setups. Take your wheel/hub assembly to the nearest heavy truck center, they'll knock them off in no time...The rayben tire center in your area should have a semi truck division.

the first time i pulled the rears apart, a buddie of mine was there and told me what to expect. i would have beat the shit out of them myself. a 13/16 8 point socket works well on the back studs/lugs. mike

where are you buying 8 point sockets?
all mine are 6 or 12 point.
are there some 8 sided bolts out there that i am unaware of?

12 point sockets will work fine on 4 point heads... So will box end wrenchs. And you can even double those bastards up to make breaking fingers and skinning knuckles easier... (the trick? Divisible by 4). Don't try and use a 3/4" socket on a 1/2" bolt... It'll prolly be a 13/16" or so. It's usually the next size or two up from what would typically correspond with the size of bolt you're working on.