So after bending a front Tera long arm (big suprise huh), I've decided that it's a great excuse/reason for me to go bigger on the control arms.

As a reference the Tera arms are 1.25" OD, .250" wall...and I bent it towards one of the mounts (not at the middle where it would theoretically have bent first).

So I have a question that I'm looking for some real world answers too.

So the question is do I:

A) go with big (i.e. 2.5" OD, .500" wall) or

B) go smaller OD...but sleeve them

I've done hours of searching/reading and it's pretty much a tie between both concepts...with alot of people saying "what I would do is _______".

I'm an ME so I can just as easily as anyone sit down and crunch out numbers comparing both concepts with lots of variables blah blah blah.....except for the one that matters, real world testing.

The main reason I want to get as good an idea of what I want to go with is cost. Building arms is not the cheapest thing to do, big heims and all the hardware ain't cheap.

Any experiences would be appreciated.

RE. Enough said.

I have their long arms on my XJ. I have laid them on so many rocks, they are very stout. I beleive that they are 2" .250 cromo. I would stick to cromo for the arms, harder to weld than DOM but stouter.

SeanP

Yea stick with Chromoly.

Can you use RE TJ arms if you don't want to build your own? As far as they know and I know there only has been one account of breakage.

I make arms and tie rods on a custom order basis- solid alloy, threaded at each end to your spec. well tested. You might scratch them, they'll give a little when you bounce them over stuff but at the end of the day they'll be straight- you won't be worrying about them anymore.

A) go with big (i.e. 2.5" OD, .500" wall) or

2.5" ?? :eek: Holy sheeot dude... That's bigger than your exhaust pipe :D.... Might be a little bit of overkill there :D

In regards to the cromo comments. Why use cromo when it is only marginally stronger and harder to weld? IMO it is just not neccessary unless you are gonna heat treat your links. DOM is the way to go.

CMon, no one has posted the obvious answer:confused: ......



















LEAF SPRINGS:flipoff2: :flipoff2: LOL J/K Dan:D

Rockkrawler uses solid bar stock for their links. I've never seen one of those bend. :D The Hiems they use are another topic though.

Your rig is going to be just slightly heavier though.

I think I am going to use 2"x2" .25" square tube for mine and part out the ends of my RE arms for the joints, stockers at the axle and cartidge at the chassis. Then DOM for my upper wishbone.

Originally posted by Wish4YJ
Yea stick with Chromoly.

Can you use RE TJ arms if you don't want to build your own? As far as they know and I know there only has been one account of breakage.


I bent the shat out of one last spring :D

Originally posted by mfg4rox
Rockkrawler uses solid bar stock for their links. I've never seen one of those bend. :D The Hiems they use are another topic though.

Your rig is going to be just slightly heavier though.

Hmm Rock Krawler? :eek: :eek:

So do you want to make or buy your links? you havent told us yet.

Yeah Scott leafs on all fours on a TJ..that'll go over well. :D

I actually have been tossing around the leaf spring idea for the rear, but this discussion is for the front. I have not bent a rear arm yet.

As far as weight goes..I have a four-banger, no top, no doors and no uneeded (as far as I know) crap...so other than my exo-tube I'm really not that heavy compared to most TJ's on the trail....adding a few lbs would obviously be worth it if there there was a strength advantage.

I listed the 2.5" OD just as a high number....maybe overkill, but I really only want to do this once (for this suspension setup).

So far I've been extremely impressed from my transition to long arms...I personally know the huge difference they made in my rigs overall ability. But, I don't want to be bending an arm every weekend.

I'm really diggin' the 1.25" heims from polyperformance.com however, I have yet to find the right size tubing. Not saying it doesn't exist...just that I haven't found a local supplier yet. But I am leaning towards the larger dimensions vs sleeving though.

I can only assume the RE is a good kit (considering how many have it)...but not what I want. I'm with the crowd of people who don't like having only two links controlling my front axle. I know it ramps great, and I'm sure it wheels awesome but it's just not my cup of tea (I'm not knocking the design though it's very functional). Not to metion that if I'm gonna go with 2" OD then I want more than .250" wall (which I have read is the RE arm dims). Not to mention that if I bend an arm that I built..it will be more convienent (and probably cheaper) to replace it myself, then have to deal with a big manufacturer that might consider it an annoyance to sell one arm.

And I'll be making my own links, have tools and access and capability...just can't decide on what to use.

Granted I know little about the jeeps, and had some to drink, I'm kinda curious about somethin on these lower control arms... I dunno whether or not the arms are straight, or bent, but if they're straight, why not weld on some angle iron to the bottom side? It might take some good welding, then some grinding and crap, but I'd guess this would add a nice bit of strength, as well as alot more protection... Just a thought... I could be way off base, in which I'll head back to my hole and continue the drinking! :flipoff2:
Pete

Originally posted by Wish4YJ


Hmm Rock Krawler? :eek: :eek:

So do you want to make or buy your links? you havent told us yet.


Well, I was thinking it wouldnt take a rocket scientist to drill a hole a tap it and throw on a hiem on one end (axle side). Perhaps for the other side throw on a rubber bushing eyelet style mount and weld it on. (frame side generally). If you can't build that, well.....:flipoff2: . If you want I think rockkrawler sells just the links for a little under 1k. I would imagine you could build your own links for half that.

The only thing you might notice is that most companies do put one "point" for the torque for the pinion. Most companies hiem the upper links on both ends. However for the lowers, they hiem the axle side and use a joint that "gives" , like rubber, on the frame side. I hear this is where skyjacker went wrong. Their kit has hiem joints on all ends, and as a result, the drive shaft u-joints have a harder life. Theres no torque roll point like in the RK and RE kits.

I was :eek:'n at rockkrawler because of their drill and tap design. STUPID. I have heard nothing but bad things about them, flex well but do NOT hold up.

Your choice of tubing sounds very large. No need to build links stronger than your axle tubes :P

I suggest 1.5/.250 and 1.75/.375.

Yeah the choice was large...but it got some people's attention right. :D

I'm gonnna do heim on one end, and bushing on the other. Probabaly will be 2.0" .250" wall so I can run a 1 1/4" heim. Maybe overkill vs a 3/4" heim but I'd rather be too big than too small. And if I bend one..then I'll replace it then sleeve the other.

So is the discussion still out on using DOM or not? Worth the extra cost (at least so far with what I've found it cost more)?

Originally posted by Scott Maiden
CMon, no one has posted the obvious answer:confused: ......

...

LEAF SPRINGS:flipoff2: :flipoff2: LOL J/K Dan:D

It's easy to tell you are new. 'Cause the obvious answer Should have been....

COILOVER'S!!! And ditch the entire TJ suspension :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Bert


It's easy to tell you are new. 'Cause the obvious answer Should have been....

COILOVER'S!!! And ditch the entire TJ suspension :flipoff2:

If you want, I can email you my address so you can send me a check or money order for the coilovers...and I'll be more than happy to install them! :D

Yes that would be sweet...but alas the fundage for coilovers isn't quite there!