Hey, I just sat down and wrote out everything wrong with my truck, plus What I percive as the cause and solution. Can anyone add to this list?

Steering: Sympton: whines at full lock
proable causes: steerbox pump loose/mounting bracket damaged
solution: tighten mounting. repair bracket as needed
cost: $10 or less

Symptom: Jerks at speed
Probable cause: loss of fluid (leaks) / loose belt /air in system
Solution: rebuild pump, replace hoses / tighten belt /bleed system
Cost about $30

Sympton: Shimmy
Probable cause: underinflated tire / unbalanced tire
Solution. check each tire for leaks and balance.
Cost: About $5 per tire

Brakes:
Symptom: pedal falls to floor (slow fade)
Probable cause: bad master cylinder
solution: Replace
Cost About $15 plus core
(fixed 14 nov 02, $18)

Battery:
Sympton: battery loose
known cause: not secured
Solution: build battery tray/holddown
Cost about $20?

Fuel system:
Sympton: hard starts
Probable cause: choke not engaging fully. wrong battery (not producing enough power)
Solutions: Replace auto choke with cable / buy red top
Cost: $10 / <$150

Symptom: engine runs "rough"
Probable cause: carb needs adjustment / choke not disengaging /timing needs adjustment
Solutions: adjust carb / install cable /adjust timing
Costs: $0 / $0/ $?--need to determine cost of tools vs shop cost

Cooling:
Sympton: engine (seems to) overheat
probable cause: Nothing (it's fine) / blockage in radiator / inadaquate cooling by mechanical fan / install temp. guage (to determine tempature) / engine pinging / fuel mix "rich" / choke not disengaging
Solutions: quit worrying / service radiator or replace / install electric fan + auto/manual switch) / install gauages
Costs: $0 / $50-250 / $20 (switch and mounting kit) / see elsewhere / see else where /see elsewhere /see elsewhere

Body: Symptom: doors not closing properly
Probable cause: missing bolts holding hinges to tub
Solution: install bolts
Cost $0

Symptom: Leak around door
probable cause: misadjusted door / missing weatherstriping
Solutoion: adjust door. install waetherstriping
Cost $0

Electrical:

symptom: Gauges (except speedo) not installed.
Cause: dash wiring a mess
solution: get multimeter and sort everything out.
Cost $0
(fixed 5 dec 02)

Drivetrain:

Sympton: clutch pedal falls to floor
Cause: missing return spring
Solution: replace
cost <$10

Symptom: tranny whines
Cause: loose bull gear, damaged rear output bearing, damaged rear output shaft
solution: Tighten bull gear (short term) / rebuild tranny
cost $20 / $100 Plus new output shaft

Symptom: truck sits too low
cause: Springs on wrong side of axle
Solution: Move springs to proper side
Cost <$50

sympton: Tires too small
Cause: wrong size
Solution: replace
Cost $200 - $1000

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane

Steering: Sympton: whines at full lock
proable causes:



For what its worth mine whines when at full lock....my 1996 Ford truck whines at full lock and has since the day I drove it off the lot......financee's 2002 Trailblazer whines at full lock sometimes....I think that's just part of having the steering locked out.

:D

What is wrong with my Scout II.

345 (268H comp cam, 3x14 offset K&N filter, 795 Quad, Jacob's Omni, accel wires, one range hotter plugs, tri-y's, dual exhaust, pretty healthy), 727, D20, 4.10's, 37's.....when I am cruising the Mall :flipoff2: in second it stumbles around 2100-2300 rpm....mech fuel pump problem or is the Jacob's about fried?


Thanks,
Wes


:D

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane

Steering: Sympton: whines at full lock
proable causes: steerbox pump loose/mounting bracket damaged
solution: tighten mounting. repair bracket as needed
cost: $10 or less


They all whine at full lock. That's how you know to STOP TURNING.


Symptom: Jerks at speed
Probable cause: loss of fluid (leaks) / loose belt /air in system
Solution: rebuild pump, replace hoses / tighten belt /bleed system
Cost about $30

Sympton: Shimmy
Probable cause: underinflated tire / unbalanced tire
Solution. check each tire for leaks and balance.
Cost: About $5 per tire


How about "shot tie-rod ends" or "shot ball joints"? That would lead to a shimmy and jerking.

Or it could just be out of alignment - toe-out is fouled up.

Fuel system:
Sympton: hard starts
Probable cause: choke not engaging fully. wrong battery (not producing enough power)
Solutions: Replace auto choke with cable / buy red top
Cost: $10 / <$150


Don't forget carb draining fuel - either leaking into the engine, or draining back through the pump.


Symptom: engine runs "rough"
Probable cause: carb needs adjustment / choke not disengaging /timing needs adjustment
Solutions: adjust carb / install cable /adjust timing
Costs: $0 / $0/ $?--need to determine cost of tools vs shop cost


Vacuum leak?


cooling by mechanical fan / install temp. guage (to determine tempature) / engine pinging / fuel mix "rich" / choke not disengaging


Walmart sells a $10 mechanical temp gauge. Goes nicely in the intake manifold.


Symptom: tranny whines
Cause: loose bull gear, damaged rear output bearing, damaged rear output shaft
solution: Tighten bull gear (short term) / rebuild tranny
cost $20 / $100 Plus new output shaft


Tranny needs OIL?

Does it whine in all gears, or just 1st/R? If 1/R, it's because of the straight cut gears. :)

Could also be a shot tranny mount.

What's wrong with mine?

Little Devil - missing #7 rod bearing, needs rear ladder bar.

Tigger - needs rear ladder bar.

Other problems - needs rear D60, needs new body mounts, new windshield, new doors, new tailgate, new quarters, new inner quarters, new tailgate pillar, new cargo floor, new soft-top, CD-changer is broken, needs bumpers.

:D

Tow-rig - needs Dana 60 parts to finish front end, needs front leaf springs, needs NP205 installed, needs motor built, needs driver's floor replaced, passenger gas tank operational, needs heater blower motor operational, needs A/C, needs air tank installed, needs painted

Hmmm.. mom's Scout needs a carb installed and the 727 rebuilt so it goes backwards - and the "stuff" stored in it taken out.

My '74 100 4x4? Needs a motor, front clip, brakes..

My '72? Let's just not go there..

whats wrong with mine?
ALOT!
cause : idiot for previous owner
solution: gett off my ass and fix it!

not on the trail
cause: shit needs to be fixed
solution: get off my ass and fix it

jelous roommate
cause: its not a toyota or a jeep
solution : buy another scout just to rub it in :flipoff2:

worn out winch control
cause: toyota's and jeeps
solution: get every one to buy a scout.. lol

Originally posted by tsm1mt
[B]

They all whine at full lock. That's how you know to STOP TURNING.

Could you explain this concept of "stop" to me? :flipoff2:



How about "shot tie-rod ends" or "shot ball joints"? That would lead to a shimmy and jerking.

Possible. thats on the bottom of my list

Or it could just be out of alignment - toe-out is fouled up.

thats next to try. one of the tires has a slow leak, so thats most likely it


Don't forget carb draining fuel - either leaking into the engine, or draining back through the pump.

ok, what would cause this? bad gasket would be my guess if it's going into the engine. carb is rebuilt.



Vacuum leak?

I'll replace all hoses in the engine compartment. the fuel lines look weatered too



Walmart sells a $10 mechanical temp gauge. Goes nicely in the intake manifold.

I've got autometers, plus a sunpro somewhere. SU for the auto meter is in the manifold now



Tranny needs OIL?

Probably/ I'll pull the top cover off it, and dump some in. Let me see if I've got "silver paint" in there too, so I can guestimate how long I can put off the rebuild

Does it whine in all gears, or just 1st/R? If 1/R, it's because of the straight cut gears. :)

All gears. and increases/decreses with speed.

Could also be a shot tranny mount.

Thats new.

Bindernut & I Pulled the transfer off the back last month, and found the bull gear was loose (could turn it by hand) not having proper socket, being about 2300 hours and me needing to get home, we tightened it dome w/ monkey wrench and used bent nail for the cotter pin we broke.

So I'm hoping if I tighten it up, I can delay the rebuild (which I can't afford right now)

Besides which, I'd sooner swap this t18 for a t19 close (it's the "street truck, it don't need the wide)

NQS