I have an early model 14 bolt srw with the drums that go on the back of the hub with the wheel studs pressed through both. I want to switch to the latter model slide off drums (89+). I have found out that the hubs are different and I am assuming the drums and backing plates are different also.

What I am wondering is if the 4 bolt flange on the housing that the backing plate bolts to is in the same place on early and late models. In short can I put the later model drums hubs and backing plate on my early axle and have everything line up correctly.

I have read several places that the axle shafts for srw axles are the same for the early (73-89) and late models (89-99) is this true?

not the ansewer you want to here but why go through that much effort for no gain?

why not go disk brakes, fuck those drum all thogether.

The truck will be street driven on long trips and I am not happy with the E-brake options that are available for the disk conversions. My gears are already set up in the early model axle so I would like to use it. I'm getting ready to do the brakes and I thought I would switch to the model that is easier to maintain if it is not to much trouble to do so.

I'd go disk brake too, just for the fact that it cuts down on weight.

I have an early model 14 bolt srw with the drums that go on the back of the hub with the wheel studs pressed through both. I want to switch to the latter model slide off drums (89+). I have found out that the hubs are different and I am assuming the drums and backing plates are different also.

What I am wondering is if the 4 bolt flange on the housing that the backing plate bolts to is in the same place on early and late models. In short can I put the later model drums hubs and backing plate on my early axle and have everything line up correctly.

I have read several places that the axle shafts for srw axles are the same for the early (73-89) and late models (89-99) is this true?

If you have the hubs I think you have... then the answer is no. The bearing spacing is different for that hub and does not match any of the other 14b hubs/spindles.

If you have the hubs I think you have... then the answer is no. The bearing spacing is different for that hub and does not match any of the other 14b hubs/spindles.

I have what the 14 bolt bible calls the early version which I think is 73 to 85. The drum breaks did not change till 89. I thought the spindles were all the same.
thanks for the info.

if you find a axle with the parts you want why not just by the entire axle and save all the headache of parts swaping and otehr bs.

if you find a axle with the parts you want why not just by the entire axle and save all the headache of parts swaping and otehr bs.

My gears are already set up in the axle I have. I'm rebuilding the breaks anyway so I was trying to find out if I could upgrade to the slide off drums. It's not worth swapping my gears over. I'll stick with what I have now.

I just missed on a 2002 10.5 with factory disk breaks on CL for 300$. :(

Thanks for the help.

Swap to rear disc, install some line locks which will fix your e brake problem.

And who needs an E brake anyway??? Mine hasn't been hooked up for the last two years...:D

my two cents...

Swap to rear disc, install some line locks which will fix your e brake problem.

And who needs an E brake anyway??? Mine hasn't been hooked up for the last two years...:D

my two cents...

Those who are plated and don't like paying fines. LOL Linelocks don't cut it.

Those who are plated and don't like paying fines. LOL Linelocks don't cut it.

does canada actually waste their time checking if everyone has a useless e brake?? cus if they do thats absolutely gay

Those who are plated and don't like paying fines. LOL Linelocks don't cut it.

X2 line locks are only designed to hold pressure for a short period of time
i.e. 5-15 second burnout in the bleach pit.

no.

mico locks have been used on med and fire trucks for decade, they are a mechanical hydro lock not a electric like you see in summit/jegs for hot rods and drag racers.

True, but Mico locks are not designed to be long term park brakes as well. Straight from Mico's site:

Brake Locks - General Information
MICO Brake Locks are for supplemental parking and are to be used in conjunction with a vehicle's mechanical parking brake. They perform as operational parking brakes only and are not intended for prolonged parking. There are several types of brake locks available, including electrohydraulic, dualock, lever, twist, cable actuated, and electric activated.

http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=37

True, but Mico locks are not designed to be long term park brakes as well. Straight from Mico's site:

Brake Locks - General Information
MICO Brake Locks are for supplemental parking and are to be used in conjunction with a vehicle's mechanical parking brake. They perform as operational parking brakes only and are not intended for prolonged parking. There are several types of brake locks available, including electrohydraulic, dualock, lever, twist, cable actuated, and electric activated.

http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=37

Exactly...
And for $1500 Im sure he can come up with something better.:shaking:

does canada actually waste their time checking if everyone has a useless e brake?? cus if they do thats absolutely gay

I'm in Canada and have never been stopped for a parking brake check.

does canada actually waste their time checking if everyone has a useless e brake?? cus if they do thats absolutely gay

I'm in Canada and have never been stopped for a parking brake check.

I can say that I've been checked on the road, but the biggest problem is that when a Vehicle inspection is ordered on the road, you need an e-brake to pass. And the cops around here pull over EVERYTHING 4wd.

here is what i was thinking of doing when i go disk brakes on my 14 bolt http://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html

here is what i was thinking of doing when i go disk brakes on my 14 bolt http://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html

I have looked at something like that as an option. My truck is a toyota but a couple companys make a t-case brake for the toyota cases like what you are looking at. I think that system would work well for a parking brake but I think at freeway speeds (65 mph+) the small rotor and caliper would over heat and become ineffective. If someone thinks this is not the case I am all ears as this would be a simple and cheap answer to my problem.

I am not wanting the e-brake to pass an inspection as that is not really an issue were I live. I want it for the one in a million chance that my brakes would fail on the road. I don't want rear disks or slide off drums for better stopping power but mainly for the easy maintenance. My truck is fairly small and has an aluminum v8 so I don't think stopping it with the stock 1 ton breaks will be an issue. I am running a d60 front with 1-ton calipers. My priorities are first safety and second easy maintenance. Do the 14bolt drums pack with mud easily or am I over thinking the whole thing. I try to stay out of deep mud but in the north west mud and water are a constant.

I would just run it as is. If you want to go with easy maitenance then go to disks and run a kit with an e-brake.

I would think the disc brakes would be better for long trips. I've always personally liked 4wheel disc brakes. Just my $.02

IMO you are over thinking it. With good pads/shoes it will take you years of driving before your brakes need servicing. So what if keeping the old style drums requires an extra 30 minutes of work every few years.

I can say that I've been checked on the road, but the biggest problem is that when a Vehicle inspection is ordered on the road, you need an e-brake to pass. And the cops around here pull over EVERYTHING 4wd.

well that freaking sucks! is you blazer even registered for road use?

disc are the ultimate in cheap and conveinent.

disc are the ultimate in cheap and conveinent.

True... but disc brakes WITH a usuable functioning parking brake can get a bit more expensive. :p

I'm in Canada and have never been stopped for a parking brake check.
It might be more of a problem in Ontario, but its getting worse anyways. Been stopped twice last year and my truck is relatively clean without a lot of tire sticking out. I also heard the OPP were upping the number of officers and their training on roadside inspections.:mad3:

P. S. Sorry for the heist.

do a disk swap, put it in reverse gear if you wanna park somewhere, i been doing it for 3 years and it works fine.

do a disk swap, put it in reverse gear if you wanna park somewhere, i been doing it for 3 years and it works fine.

Therefore, any authorized DOT agent will sign off on it. Just tell them to read chvyracing08's post on Pirate4x4 if you're ever questioned or cited for not having a functioning p-brake.

Sometimes its nice to stop and get out with the vehicle running too!

Those who are plated and don't like paying fines. LOL Linelocks don't cut it.

my 80 is plated, and doesnt have a single ebrake cable on it. nobody has ever hassled me.

I have looked at something like that as an option. My truck is a toyota but a couple companys make a t-case brake for the toyota cases like what you are looking at. I think that system would work well for a parking brake but I think at freeway speeds (65 mph+) the small rotor and caliper would over heat and become ineffective. If someone thinks this is not the case I am all ears as this would be a simple and cheap answer to my problem.

I am not wanting the e-brake to pass an inspection as that is not really an issue were I live. I want it for the one in a million chance that my brakes would fail on the road. I don't want rear disks or slide off drums for better stopping power but mainly for the easy maintenance. My truck is fairly small and has an aluminum v8 so I don't think stopping it with the stock 1 ton breaks will be an issue. I am running a d60 front with 1-ton calipers. My priorities are first safety and second easy maintenance. Do the 14bolt drums pack with mud easily or am I over thinking the whole thing. I try to stay out of deep mud but in the north west mud and water are a constant.

for what little time you're going to be using a driveline brake, heat soak shouldnt be an issue at all.

if you want it for the 1 in a million chance that your brakes fail, and you're wanting to swap to slide on drums for ease of maintnance... actually do some maintnance once in a while, and you'll notice if your brake system is going to fail soon.