So, my truck is a '96 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4 Powerstroke, Automatic.

Previously my e4od went out and I had it built by one of my accounts at work.

Unfortunatly the truck being a F250 it has the craptastic TTB, which was so worn out that it would pop and make noises when I even turned or hit the brakes, let alone hit a bump. Since it did not have a sway bar body roll was controled by it hitting the bumpstops which are only a inch away at rest.

So, I sourced a '97 F350 Dana 60 with 4.10 gears complete with springs, trac bar and bracket, and sway bar and brackets.

http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/41225/2497730310059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2497730310059560750XBqhLJ)

The TTB did not want to come out and we had to spend way too much time getting the rear spring bolts loose from the stock springs in the truck and ended up having to go by new 9/16 bolts.

http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/44277/2319517230059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2319517230059560750xyziNE)

http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/45043/2196756050059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2196756050059560750bBIqFP)

its out!

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/41291/2373692800059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2373692800059560750PQjBFJ)

Once it was out we were able to remove the TTB center pivot brackets and install the track bar bracket and sway bar brackets, all holes were there we just had to open up the sway bar holes as I bought 1/2 in grade 8 bolts

http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/35601/2277281170059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2277281170059560750lAUnVp)

http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/44119/2983210100059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2983210100059560750FvOKQv)

http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/42526/2560197030059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2560197030059560750cGYKCq)

Then it was a mater of bolting up the D60, which went in much easier than the TTB came out....thus....ford should have done this in the first place :bangbang:

http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/45383/2837317260059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2837317260059560750ELVCRe)

Before:

http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/44399/2014323440059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2014323440059560750mGXPGM)

http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/44365/2856028590059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2856028590059560750KaErFo)

After:

http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/44907/2359387360059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2359387360059560750RaCdIs)

http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/45460/2621297700059560750S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2621297700059560750iNkaXv)

more pics found here: http://rides.webshots.com/album/571948035AJKbvk

So far ride and drive have both improved. Before with the TTB it didn't have a sway bar and body roll was controlled by the bumpstops hitting the spring pads, which at static height of an inch above them.

So with the better F350 springs and sway bar, its much better to drive. Not to mention it doesn't pop or make noise when I turn or hit the brakes.:D

I should have done this the day i bought the truck.:mr-t:

Justin

This has been helpful, along with other dana 60 topics however I have a few unanswered questions.

I am getting ready to do the swap, second major repair needed on dana 50 front axle in just over a year, first one was my fault I hit a big ass curb at 30mph and screwed all sort up. Well I should have swapped it then but didn't so now I have fried something in the diff. Christmas day we drove to the inlaws in 4wd for 70 miles and when we got there the front diff was sizzling when water dripped on it and there was 90 weight that had been puked out through the breather tube down the inside of one of the frame rails.

I have located an 06 dana 60 for $500 complete with steering links. I realize this axle will be a coil sprung axle so it would require cutting off the spring purches and arm mounts and replacing them with leaf spring purches. I have not figured out cost for material and labor but that doesn't give me reason not to buy it at $500.

I also realize that the wheel lugs are metric, mine are not (97 HD crew cab, btw). Can I swap my hubs out to keep the old style wheels?

What else do I need to think about?

What is the unibearing that was changed to in early decade, around 04 if i recall correctly? Will this effect me?

This has been helpful, along with other dana 60 topics however I have a few unanswered questions.

I am getting ready to do the swap, second major repair needed on dana 50 front axle in just over a year, first one was my fault I hit a big ass curb at 30mph and screwed all sort up. Well I should have swapped it then but didn't so now I have fried something in the diff. Christmas day we drove to the inlaws in 4wd for 70 miles and when we got there the front diff was sizzling when water dripped on it and there was 90 weight that had been puked out through the breather tube down the inside of one of the frame rails.

I have located an 06 dana 60 for $500 complete with steering links. I realize this axle will be a coil sprung axle so it would require cutting off the spring purches and arm mounts and replacing them with leaf spring purches. I have not figured out cost for material and labor but that doesn't give me reason not to buy it at $500.

I also realize that the wheel lugs are metric, mine are not (97 HD crew cab, btw). Can I swap my hubs out to keep the old style wheels?

What else do I need to think about?

What is the unibearing that was changed to in early decade, around 04 if i recall correctly? Will this effect me?

You will be much better off getting an earlier axle, you can have the unit bearings and rotors redrilled but would have to have replacements done also. A 16 wheel may not fit with the brakes on the newer super duty axles.

Or go ahead and convert to coils in the front (if you can get all the hardware with the axle you are looking at) and use an adapter in the rear to go to all metric wheels. Sucks to have to buy wheels, but like Brewchief said your old wheels might not clear anyway.
Better measure frame width before you buy anything to make sure you can fit it under there w/o any major issues too. (IE, putting an 86-97 D60 under a 70s rig takes a little more work because the frames are wider in the 80-90s rigs.)

Cliff Notes: I agree with Brewchief.

Oh, to the OP, nice truck!

I just can't tell from the pics if you've got 2 or 3 leafs in those front packs?

This swap's definitely coming for me, too, but I'm pretty insistent on building a better H shackle if I leave them up front.

This has been helpful, along with other dana 60 topics however I have a few unanswered questions.

I have located an 06 dana 60 for $500 complete with steering links. I realize this axle will be a coil sprung axle so it would require cutting off the spring purches and arm mounts and replacing them with leaf spring purches. I have not figured out cost for material and labor but that doesn't give me reason not to buy it at $500.

I also realize that the wheel lugs are metric, mine are not (97 HD crew cab, btw). Can I swap my hubs out to keep the old style wheels?

What else do I need to think about?

What is the unibearing that was changed to in early decade, around 04 if i recall correctly? Will this effect me?

Way too much work, and no things wont match up from OBS to SD 60's. You'd have to cut and weld the out C's of an older axle on to the newer. Problem is getting the 05 and newer axles apart is next to impossible. The time it would take to brake down the housing, it'd be worth just buying a new custom axle housing. It's just a walk in the park to throw the correct year axle in.

I just can't tell from the pics if you've got 2 or 3 leafs in those front packs?

This swap's definitely coming for me, too, but I'm pretty insistent on building a better H shackle if I leave them up front.

The best setup is the Off Road Unlimited shackle reversal. I'm not sure what he means by a nicer ride so he must have took some leaves out. The solid axles rides like crap compared to the I-beams, due to the fact that both tires can't move independently, therefore more energy gets transferred through the solid mount on the frame into the cab. I've been driving OBS Fords 250 and 350 since I was a kids and 250s always ride nice and 350s beat the piss out of ya and with a diesel taking a leaf out is a very bad idea. The best way to fix a the ride is to use a shackle reversal. The only problem with ORU's shackle reversal is if you plan on beating your rig and have a 460 or 7.3, reinforce the ORU's crossmember where it mounts to the frame. If you jump your rig or get enough front impact you can crack the frame due to the crossmember being attached so far forward on the frame.

I was asking about the # of leafs because, honestly, I'm surprised at how little lift he got w this swap, making me think he used a 2 pack (seems more common under gassers, incl 460) than a 3 pack (seems more common under oil burners), altho yes I do believe cab style had much to do w what Ford put under the front too............................................cou pled w the fact that F250 packs are generally flat to negative arch, while F350 packs have some positive arch.............again surprised at how little front lift he got.

When I do this I'll be aiming for minimal lift 'cause I just don't see much point in a lifted tow rig. ORU won't get a dime of my money. Ever. Plus if I wanted to bolt on mail-order shit on I'd build a TJ.

edit: from looking at the webshots album, looks like two leafs here
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2832191450059560750HpApMk

I'm gonna hazard a guess that if he had used an F350 pack from a Powerstroke donor he woulda wound up w more front lift...............or was the donor a PS? I don't see it specified anywhere.

Also, to the OP: you mention 4.10, was your truck already there or did you re-gear the rear to match?

I was asking about the # of leafs because, honestly, I'm surprised at how little lift he got w this swap, making me think he used a 2 pack (seems more common under gassers, incl 460) than a 3 pack (seems more common under oil burners), altho yes I do believe cab style had much to do w what Ford put under the front too............................................cou pled w the fact that F250 packs are generally flat to negative arch, while F350 packs have some positive arch.............again surprised at how little front lift he got.

When I do this I'll be aiming for minimal lift 'cause I just don't see much point in a lifted tow rig. ORU won't get a dime of my money. Ever. Plus if I wanted to bolt on mail-order shit on I'd build a TJ.

edit: from looking at the webshots album, looks like two leafs here
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2832191450059560750HpApMk

I'm gonna hazard a guess that if he had used an F350 pack from a Powerstroke donor he woulda wound up w more front lift...............or was the donor a PS? I don't see it specified anywhere.

Also, to the OP: you mention 4.10, was your truck already there or did you re-gear the rear to match?

Not everyone has the ability to make their own stuff. And most of the time it ends up costing people more than it would have to just buy a shelf product. Sometimes it's just easier to buy something that was engineered specifically for what your trying to accomplish. Again this is a thread about 60 swaps that many people will use for reference so the ORI setup wasn't just for you.

3 Pack w/35"s PowerStroke BJ 3 Pack
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh143/houseoddiesel/96%20F250%20Crew/ColtonVisDadsHollister1309024.jpg

6" Superlift w/37"s 351 BJ
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh143/houseoddiesel/95%20F350%20%20%20351/img_8880-1.jpg

8" Lift w/35"s 6.9 KP
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh143/houseoddiesel/84%20F350%20%2060/Holloween08058.jpg

6" Lift w/37"s PowerStroke KP
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh143/houseoddiesel/97%20F250%20Colton/121909Hollister287.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh143/houseoddiesel/97%20F250%20Colton/121909Hollister286.jpg

I was starting to think that i was trying to put a square peg in a round hole. Especially if I am a little patient Ill find a OBS d60 in the coming weeks.

I really don't want to modify any more than I have to as this is my work truck and DD and down time is money for me.

Back from the dead!!!

Couple of questions for you.

What plate did you use on the drivers side to secure the ubolts? Looks like my stock TTB plate, but can't tell clearly from the pic. I know the 60 has one built in on the pass side, but I'm not sure about the drivers side.

Also, what ubolts did you use for the front as well. Don't look much different than the TTB units.

Back from the dead!!!

Couple of questions for you.

What plate did you use on the drivers side to secure the ubolts? the one from the D60. you never have to unbolt the donor truck's leaves. Looks like my stock TTB plate, but can't tell clearly from the pic. I know the 60 has one built in on the pass side, but I'm not sure about the drivers side.

Also, what ubolts did you use for the front as well. Don't look much different than the TTB units.dido. D60. never unbolted from junk yard axle.
..

the OBS leaves are rough, why not do a sky mfg rear shackle kit with SD leaves?

I have the SD springs, but don't want the RS because of the low hangin shackle. And I don't want that much lift. The 60 will lift it enough for me.

So, what ubolt plate is used on the drivers side under the axle??

The stock one for the D60, it's a cast piece shaped to fit around the webbing on the diff.

I have the SD springs, but don't want the RS because of the low hangin shackle. And I don't want that much lift. The 60 will lift it enough for me.

So, what ubolt plate is used on the drivers side under the axle??

If you didn't get it with the axle...good luck finding it.

SD-RS swap will ride like a dream compared to stock and it doesn't hang down that low...
I developed this mod and its the only way to make these trucks ride good..unless you do a '05 axle and suspension swap or do your own link arm kit.

Cary