here's what we have to offer for lifted defender 90's front shaft were tesing it right now- Jess :D

#2 size comparison-:D

I know this is probably a stupid question, so go ahead and bash me for being a newbie...

Why is it necessary to use the adapter plates? Is there a reason the original flanges can't be machined to be used? Seems to me that fi you're making something like this, there will be significant balancing required so why not mill the original flange flat and weld or otherwise attach the flange to the CV joint?

Paul

Jess,
I am approaching needing a double for the front of my Rangie. Can you pm/email projected cost details and such?

j

the bolt patterns are way different and yes it does complicate things - but its a steel addapter - should work well- aprox. cost on this unit with addapters 999.00$ should be unbreakable- we thought about 1/2 ton and said for the money its not worth it 1/2 sucks- :D Jess

Originally posted by onetoncv
the bolt patterns are way different and yes it does complicate things - but its a steel addapter - should work well- aprox. cost on this unit with addapters 999.00$ should be unbreakable- we thought about 1/2 ton and said for the money its not worth it 1/2 sucks- :D Jess


Don't mean to offend anyone, but for $999 if better be unbreakable and the U-joints better never wear out.

This is kind of pricey. I had a custom made front Driveshaft for my truck that is only Double-Cardon at one end and an Aluminum adapter and it only cost me $425 to my door, next day.

Just my .02. Maybe I'm way off here!

Originally posted by onetoncv
the bolt patterns are way different and yes it does complicate things - but its a steel addapter - should work well- aprox. cost on this unit with addapters 999.00$ should be unbreakable- we thought about 1/2 ton and said for the money its not worth it 1/2 sucks- :D Jess

For a grand the damn think better not friggin break. Why does anybody need a double CV driveshaft and why does it need to be 1 ton? We are talking about vehicles with 150hp and a fair amount of torque. :rolleyes:

I gues I"m the one that should answer the question as to why get a 1000 dollar shaft. I got that shaft because I broke two shafts in a month and did more than 10 times the amount of damage that this shaft is going to cost. Yes your custom shaft with a single double cardon probably did cost 425 so add another cardon and make it one ton stuff and there you have it twice the price plus the beefiness factor. Granted it was expensive but I think it is well worth it and if you haven't seen the quality of jess' shafts then you have no idea as to why they cost so much. Will I ever break it? I sure as hell hope not and definately not from engine power but is it nice to have something that you know isn't going to break? Yes I think so and it's worth a grand to me to make my driveline bullet proof in the front and when I get enough money I will also put one on the rear. By the way thanks for showing me what they are going to look like jess. Thanks again and I promise you all they are worth every penny.

-ben

$999 for a pair doesn't sound too terrible. It is for 2 right?? Six states charges $325ish each for DC driveshafts (1/2 ton model). I haven't broke mine yet ( I've tried believe me), and a have tons of stripes on them. Maybe the one driveshaft comes with an LT230 with low range gears for that price.

Way

Hey Ben i 3 day'd yours fed ex- Jess:D

for a grand, I can put in a toy one third to correct the pinion problem, which will probably correct the vibration, then I can but in a toy shaft with machining for around 330.00......


I don't know who needs a 1000.00 shaft except for maybe someone in a buggy who is sponsored.

j

Can I get one of those on a free shaft deal???:D

For a grand I can score another C303 front and run a stock driveshaft, or convert to part time or . . . but thats not the point.

:)

Looking sweet Jess! If you got the bucks it looks like the way to go. Given the experiences with the other available options (which never seem to balance nor can you get the castor and pinion angle correct at the same time) it will be interesting to see the long term results. I wonder how the weight of that shaft will effect bearing and seal life on the pinion and especailly the LT230.

Ron

the main shafts are like 1 3/4 - there huge i don't see any problem - at least when your banging around in the rocks hehe- it cannot be worse for your rig then that- ! Jess

Common guy's lighten up a little and pull your heads out of your arse!

Have ANY of you priced a 1350 CV? Do any of you have any idea what Jess's QA and CS is? Do you realize that the LR community now has more than 3 reputable sources for LR DS's?

Give Six-States, Tom Wood's etc. a call and ask them what a double/double cardon 1350 shaft costs...They will ALL tell you "bout' $850". Then you get to ask them about the adapter flanges and they will tell you 70-100 each.

Then ask yourselves how much you've poured into your rig's....Then ask anyone who's had a front shaft fail at speed what the carnage total was after they replaced thier slush box, cats, oil-pan etc....Makes a $400- 500 (1350 single with flange) bomb-proof drive shaft seem pretty cheap.
I do have to admit, that without a compound angle problem a double/double *shouldn't* be necessary...

One of the reasons my project has stalled (not moving yet!) is because of the friggin' cost of a pair of nice shafts...I want to use Jess (great guy to work with btw), but I underestimated the good ol' budget by a...Well....Significant amount. Might be a couple of pay-checks before I can hook her to the ground.

One other thing while I'm thinking about it...How in the heck is that going to clear your x-member and cat's? When I built my new x-member I specifically lowered the drop 2" to clear a 1410 UJ with 2.5" dia shaft....I remember when I had cat's and the stock x-member, the 1310 was tight.

I guess the question is: What is the dimensional difference between the 1310 and the 1350?

--D

Originally posted by evilfij

will be interesting to see the long term results. I wonder how the weight of that shaft will effect bearing and seal life on the pinion and especailly the LT230.

Ron

talking of this..... has anyone figured a way of beefing up the front bearing on an LT230? i've had 2 bearings go bad due to the weight of the double CV on my D90. :(

Jamie

Doug I am building a new crossmember and well lets just say they don't really check for cats in texas. You'll also be happy to know that I'm throwing on some hedman headers and I'm actually going to run all of the exhaust over the crossmember. Should be interresting. Glad to see that someone realizes what the cost of a double double truly is. Granted I may have not needed it, but if it keeps my truck from throwing shafts and vibrating so be it. Hope that you get your truck done soon. As for the lt230 issue I don't think that the shaft is really going to cause that much of an issue and it if it does I guess I'll have to fix it then.

-ben

Cool man. I ran my exhaust over the x-member too...The stock one! Took a guy that knew what he was doing, but he got it done.

Anyway, now with the double/double, you can drop your caster back to stock and have a lifted vehicle with NO vib's...Good deal man.

-D

Originally posted by RockRover
One other thing while I'm thinking about it...How in the heck is that going to clear your x-member and cat's? When I built my new x-member I specifically lowered the drop 2" to clear a 1410 UJ with 2.5" dia shaft....I remember when I had cat's and the stock x-member, the 1310 was tight.

I guess the question is: What is the dimensional difference between the 1310 and the 1350?

--D


I had this problem 2 years ago. I marked up my factory crossmember where it needed to be "lightened" and took it to the local welder. For about $80 he plasma'd the notch and welded back in a piece to fill the hole.

Clears the DC Driveshaft perfectly now.

your exactly right guys if there's a compound angle is where we would use this - not when we have little or no anlge at the diff- i'd really enjoy building a single c/v shaft it would be a snap- and the other problem is when its a full time that sucker is really going under there - and vibs will drive you out of the cab unless you roll the diff up to match the driveline angle up front- the cat interferance is an interesting problem - we may have to look into that- thanks for the input- the 1350 c/v is a 5" swing diameter where the cheesy 1310 is 4" - i'll post up a pic of the 1310 flange others are using and shpw you why we hate that flange its for a bronco ll guys- and they break - Jess