I’ve now taken out two Samy Rear Axel Housings. What type of trussing works? Got pics?

Oh, I also need a straight axel housing from somewhere in the Sacramento/foothills area. I'm in Grass Valley.

No, I don’t want to change to Toyota axels. Too much work and money at this time.

Sleeve the tube with 2 1/2" ID steam pipe, you will need to split it to weld it on. I also drilled it & puddle welded it in several places. Where the tube is swaged onto the hub & the pumpkin I again slit the pipe to spread it a little. I then added a diff cap & tied this into the tube using box section. I ran the perches right to the hub & made these out of 1/4" wall c section.
If this sounds like overkill, maybe, however I race my truck & bent several housings until I did this. i can now drive as hard as I can put up with with no axle issues.

Tim

Thanks Muddi44

My current housing is trussed top & bottom, long & short sides to within 1.5 inches of the perches with 3/16" rectangular material and a pipe dif cap. The axel housing before that was stock and the weld between the long side and the third member broke. The current trouble is outside this trussed area - should have taken the truss farther. Like all the way out to the flange.

I’m not actually sure I have a bend or if the perches pushed down and bent the tubing at that area. I will examine once I get started with the project – the vehicle is still on the road, but I won’t take it on the trail.

At any rate I have a rear axel with some toe in and massive positive camber.

A few questions:
1) Regarding your 2.5” ID steam pipe; did you do a full 360 degree or just use half of the split on the top? You must have taken it real slowly welding.
2) What vehicle donated the now larger U-Bolts?
3) You must have had to fab some new spring plates too.
4) Steam pipe strength vs. DOM strength, any opinions? Most in the states swear by DOM and frown at the word “pipe”.
5) Would love to see some pictures of the perch end.

Others, Please feel free to chime in.

Thanks Muddi44

My current housing is trussed top & bottom, long & short sides to within 1.5 inches of the perches with 3/16" rectangular material and a pipe dif cap. The axel housing before that was stock and the weld between the long side and the third member broke. The current trouble is outside this trussed area - should have taken the truss farther. Like all the way out to the flange.

I’m not actually sure I have a bend or if the perches pushed down and bent the tubing at that area. I will examine once I get started with the project – the vehicle is still on the road, but I won’t take it on the trail.

At any rate I have a rear axel with some toe in and massive positive camber.

A few questions:
1) Regarding your 2.5” ID steam pipe; did you do a full 360 degree or just use half of the split on the top? You must have taken it real slowly welding.
2) What vehicle donated the now larger U-Bolts?
3) You must have had to fab some new spring plates too.
4) Steam pipe strength vs. DOM strength, any opinions? Most in the states swear by DOM and frown at the word “pipe”.
5) Would love to see some pictures of the perch end.

Others, Please feel free to chime in.

To answer your questions
1/ full 360 & yes it took a while to weld! I did the front the same way & this ended a couple of degrees out. 1 huge landing and it is more or less straight.
2/ I had 1 set made up, Series Landrover will fit, make sure they are threaded for enough of the length
3/ I have fitted L/R parabolic springs so was able to use L/R spring plates, other than that you will have to fab some plates (or weld the holes in the existing & redrill)
4/ DOM is stronger & you will get away with less wall thickness, this makes the u bolts more difficult to obtain unless you go custom. For me I could not get DOM very easily, nearest good steel stockist is 2 hrs away. I could get the steam pipe for free, it is high grade UK manufactured.
5/I cannot post pics atm will pm you when I get back from work.

Tim

Great thread. I'm in the same place, not really eager to step up to the Toys and have a ton of stock axle parts. Can you post up the pics?

I cut and shaved my axles and added a Sky manufacturing truss.

I too liked the Sky truss - that is why I copied it. Top, bottom on short & long sides. However, I believe I have bent the axle tube outside the zone it and my trusses protect.

Here are some pics Muddi44 supplied of his axel trussing:

Nice, that looks really solid. What are you doing to bend an axle tube outside the truss:eek:. Jumping buildings or something?

Nope, no jumping for me. Just general rock crawling and carrying full loads. I am running a full floater which does extend the moment a bit further out.

Muddi44 pictures above are also of a full floater and he does jump his vehicle.

Muddi44

I noticed you put the welded seam of the pipe on the sides(front & rear) of the axel. Was there any reason verses the top and bottom?

Muddi44

I noticed you put the welded seam of the pipe on the sides(front & rear) of the axel. Was there any reason verses the top and bottom?

I was just thinking the same thing, what's with the flat, outside truss'?
That's new, and awesome at the same time.

I was just thinking the same thing, what's with the flat, outside truss'?
That's new, and awesome at the same time.

Did not think about where the weld should be, felt right to have it side to side!
I did some crude stress analysis on the housing, both practical (bent 3) & mathematical. The mathematical model demostrated that weak point was out board of the perches esp. when you factor in bigger tyres & offset rims. I extended H/D perches right to the hub thus compensating for the perceived weakness.

Tim