78 K20 swapped in dodge 60, 8" springs, 38.5 tsl's 4.10's. sm465, np205, reg cab, long box. front driveshaft is just a fuzz above binding just sitting there. I have the double cardon on my front driveshaft, and just put on a transfer case lowering kit. That got me nowhere. I need to find a way to keep my front driveshaft from binding, cheap. I'm laid off so money doesn't fly too well lately.... blah, blah, blah... you know the story... I'm looking for a way to make this setup work, and would prefer not to swap out my sm465.

What have you guys done? What are my options? What is all involved in a divorced transfer case? What's all involved in a doubler?

This truck isn't driven for anything but mud. No rocks, no trail riding, and as far as I know so far, no need for gear reduction.

I know plenty of people have built up the 73-87 GM trucks for mud, so let's see what's worked for you guys.

Get rid of the tcase lowering kit, it creates poor front driveshaft angles... go back to factory.

swapping transmissions is too costly, you built the truck with a 465 for a reason, keep it... besides you're gonna have to find or make a driveshaft & convert your case to a divorded unit anyways.

(after removing Tcase lowering kit)
A) if you only use 4x4 while off roading or at low speeds you can build your own front drive shaft out of square tubing using your existing shaft for parts... search on this for details!

B) get a new shaft professionally built to proper length for off roading with your set up before you wreck your transfer case input bearing. (guessing around $300)

if its binding with weight on the wheels then its going to majorly bind with the axle dropped... i got lucky and mine barely binded at full drop so i just ground off the stops on the driveshaft and been running it since

That's what I'd do ^^ for the time being.

I used to drive an 79 chevy K20 w/38 swampers and an 8 inch lift all I did was ground off the stop on the shaft and it worked great. The only thing I reccommend is to carry some extra u-joints you will break a couple in the mud.I had to change 2 or 3 out in the mud.


http://b4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/00588/48/93/588053984_l.jpg

Where is it binding at? The double cardon end I am going to assume....

What I did was buy new u joints, and ball/sockets and seals, and tore it apart, took it to the bench grinder and hogged the shit out of the double cardon parts, allowing much greater angles of operation.

Granted, it vibrates alot if running at any sort of speeds, like on the road, (forgot and left it in 4 hi)

But for low speed offroad use, it worked great, never bound, and never broke, ran it for almost two years without a problem.

The driveshaft is just about binding at ride height. It's not binding at the upper (transfer case end) but rather at the pinion end at my 60. I want to keep my 4 speed, as I like it. How difficult is it to swap to a divorced 205? What should I be expecting to spend on this?

Tom Woods offset joint.

What is your pinion angle set at? And what size u joint are you running in the front?

A 1310 binds the least by the way...

What is your pinion angle set at? And what size u joint are you running in the front?

A 1310 binds the least by the way...

I have no idea. I just swapped in a 8" springs. I don't think I changed the pinion angle-Do you mean what angle the driveshaft is? Since you guys'll know what you're looking at and I don't, would pictures help?:confused:

Also, when it came time to match the front dodge 60 to my stock chevy driveshaft, I took the shaft into NAPA and had the guy match it up. Came outta there with a (what I thought was really unique) u joint that goes from a 78 chevy, to a mid 80's dodge...? He had to look it up in an actual book made of paper and everything! -With no computer help:eek::laughing:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/729999/fullsize/trtansfer-case-drop-78-006.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/730000/fullsize/trtansfer-case-drop-78-005.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/730001/fullsize/trtansfer-case-drop-78-004.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/730002/fullsize/trtansfer-case-drop-78-002.jpg

cut and turn............ I cant believe it hasn't been said yet.

cut and turn............ I cant believe it hasn't been said yet.

Little emarrassed to say this, but I'm not real sure what you mean by that. I found out I have a 1310 joint. (and my driveshaft is on a 25 (:eek:) degree angle.) I'm assuming upgrading to a 1350 joint would help me out as far as binding. ???

Your vibration is caused by improper angle of the front axle housing to the driveshaft... with a CV at the t-case, your pinion u-joint should have almost no angle on it. Cut & Turn means to cut (knuckles & perches) off the housing, turn the housing so that the drive line angle is correct, and then weld the stuff back on. Search for knuckle rotation for help on that.

you have to remeber that with the d60 and a 465 you have the shortest front drive shaft ever put in a chevy front. length = angle.

you should get a the offest joint for the axle end, YOU CAN NOT INSTALL IT ON THE CV!!!!

doubler, divorced, all that is going to cost you an ass load of cash, even if you get buddy deals.



get a grinder on all of the cv and yoke points. you would be a mazed what you can gain with some dirty work.

you have to remeber that with the d60 and a 465 you have the shortest front drive shaft ever put in a chevy front. length = angle.

you should get a the offest joint for the axle end, YOU CAN NOT INSTALL IT ON THE CV!!!!

doubler, divorced, all that is going to cost you an ass load of cash, even if you get buddy deals.



get a grinder on all of the cv and yoke points. you would be a mazed what you can gain with some dirty work.

trkklr77: thanks! That's the most helpful post I've seen. And, even with pictures,!?! I'd have to really try hard to not understand that! Thank you.:smokin: Not to sound like a dick, but I don't have any issues with binding anywhere but the pinion end of my driveshaft-should I still grind on the all the upper (arrows) points?

MrSammi: I never had any issues with vibration-yet. not sure where that came from. If I cut and turn, as you say, I believe my steering would no longer be true. I currently still have to drive this truck to the local mud holes ( I have one coming up pretty quickly) so I still need some road manners...


Also I've been eyeing up something like one of these:
http://www.highangledriveline.com/yokes.html
or one of these:
http://www.highangledriveline.com/38cv.html

disconccet the axle end and let hang down to see how much it would move if you flexed.

if you grind the cv you could easily add 2-3" of droop which can be a world of difference.

well, I took the whole truck over to a buddy's house and he took a die grinder to the pinion yoke. WOW! That tool is the cat's ass! No clearance issues on the pinion yoke anymore! But as it turns out, I cannot grind out clearance on my double cardon joint as it's only hitting on the inner most spots. So, for now ( I'm going wheeling next saturday, for the first time this year!!!!!!:mad3:) I will most likely just put some limiting straps on there to keep the 60 from dropping too far as I think I should have clearance for about 3" of drop... I'm not sure, I have to look and figure some more.... Oh, that and my 1 year old radiator deceided to spring a leak on me in the middle of all this...:mad3:

I slapped it all together and found I cannot allow my front axle to drop at all.:mad3: I would have to grind out the inner most part of my double cardan joint, the parts around the ball, as that's all that's hitting now. I tried taking out my transfer case drop, and that just made my driveshaft angle worse by almost 2 degrees! How can I make this work? :confused::confused::confused:

Looking at those pix, you need to cut and turn the axle.

That lift looks Huge! Way to tall.

Lastly, Cv joints are good for X & Y axis/plain offset/alignment. It looks like your only dealing with Y.
Look at Tom Woods web site. Lots of good tech.... Plus his offset joints rock.....