It will cast me $300 for a 20' stick of chromolly Dom Tubing 1/8 thick and It will cost me $140 for a schedule 80 20' stick of pipe. So I need to do my links on my rig and what do you thing? Do you think the thick a$$ pipe will hold up? Let me know.

It will cast me $300 for a 20' stick of chromolly Dom Tubing 1/8 thick and It will cost me $140 for a schedule 80 20' stick of pipe. So I need to do my links on my rig and what do you thing? Do you think the thick a$$ pipe will hold up? Let me know.

Your getting burned on price. You should be able to get 20 footer for about 30something.

Your getting burned on price. You should be able to get 20 footers for about 30something.
you must have a good connection !

sch 80 means 80,000 lb yield strength right? Isn't that more or less what 1/8" DOM is?

Schedule 80 referrs to wall thickness nothing else. The Schedule 80 will be thick and heavy, and also will not be true to its named dimension.for your lower links, I would think that the Sched 80 would be just fine.

It will cast me $300 for a 20' stick of chromolly Dom Tubing 1/8 thick and It will cost me $140 for a schedule 80 20' stick of pipe. So I need to do my links on my rig and what do you thing? Do you think the thick a$$ pipe will hold up? Let me know.
DO WHAT??? What's it going to cast you?...LOL First of all Chromoly is on thing. D0M is another. PIPE is a third. You aren't going to have Chromoly DOM. I hope you aren't serious about 1/8 wall links even if they are Chromoly. Most importantly Pipe is for poop. Jim

It will cost me $140 for a schedule 80 20' stick of pipe. So I need to do my links on my rig and what do you thing?

Pipe is for poop...Tube is for links...:D

Edit: Powerstroken beat me to it. :flipoff2:

pipe is water
pvc and cast are for poop

pipe is water
pvc and cast are for poop
thank you

pipe as in 1/4"x2" square turned corner down...:D
i think it is Ballistic that makes square inserts now (not that you need them)

why can't there be chromoly DOM? dom means drawn over mandrel to eliminate kinks, seams, whatever. you could do that with any tubing, right? even chromoly.
. I thought the monster trucks said they use chromoly DOM too.
. I would think that pipes would be too brittle, prone to break instead of bend or spring a little.

you can have cromo DOM
pipe is steel, haven't seen it break myself.

88 Samurai,Toy axles 529's Detroit lockers,2 1/2 lifted 4404's front & rear,custom shackle reverse & duel shacked in rear,36x12.5x15 Swamper SX's, 8000 lb. winch,sidekick power steering,4x4 labs high steer,interior roll cage,Trail Tough 6.5.1 t-case gears,high angle D-lines, L.F. 30 splines.

By the looks of your sig you've spent good money on good parts so far...don't compromise on the links that are going to keep it all together.

Your getting burned on price. You should be able to get 20 footer for about 30something.

Yes, at least on the pipe. 7 dollars a foot for pipe is crazy

sch 80 means 80,000 lb yield strength right? Isn't that more or less what 1/8" DOM is?

No, schedule 80 is in reference to the wall thickness, not grade. Look here for dimensions http://wedgewire.com/ps.htm

DO WHAT??? What's it going to cast you?...LOL First of all Chromoly is on thing. D0M is another. PIPE is a third. You aren't going to have Chromoly DOM. I hope you aren't serious about 1/8 wall links even if they are Chromoly. Most importantly Pipe is for poop. Jim

No, you can get Chromoly DOM. DOM is just a manufacturing process. Pipe is not just for poop. There is a big thread in gen4x4 about this right now. Go read. Would I buy pipe from home depot and use it? No. But you can get pipe in structural grades that are right there with DOM as far as strength. I have also personally had all three types of material, pipe, HREW, and DOM on my rigs. The pipe rig took the most abuse and held up the best.

Thanx for the feed back guys. If I can find a better price on the DOM tha tis what I'll use.

my links are .250 wall 2"dom and have held up great and taken a beating. I would never build something with anything smaller.

never heard the term 'chromoly DOM', but I don't remember seeing a weld sag in my chromoly or stainless sticks. I'd believe some chromoly sticks can hit $300, but .120 DOM should hit around $5-8 per ft. .25" DOM at twice that.

I run .120 DOM with .120 chromoly inside. cheaper by the stick, and you can re-use the rems on your cage. oh, tweaked a link first few outings, still running it with no trouble since. been over two years of hard use.

I am by no means a tube guru. I have always been taught it goes Chromo, DOM, HREW, Poop pipe...LOL Then theres your how much it cast...LOL You dont want to run cast iron links...:flipoff2:

If chromo cant be DOM then what would the proper name be for seemless chromoly tubing?

For my links I am using 1.5 X .375 wall 4140 chromo seemles tubing. Its like 12 bucks a foot if you have to buy it but it doesnt bend.

hears a lot of folks talk about how chromoly at the weld joints is not as strong if not welded properly I woul love to hear more on that explanation

What about aluminum that should be a lot more expensive and ridiculous to put on a sammy:laughing: Its going to weigh 2000lbs what are you worried about?

hears a lot of folks talk about how chromoly at the weld joints is not as strong if not welded properly I woul love to hear more on that explanation

What about aluminum that should be a lot more expensive and ridiculous to put on a sammy:laughing: Its going to weigh 2000lbs what are you worried about?
When welding chromoly it has to be pre heated to 750ish then tig welded
then reheated to relieve the tension or else the weld joint will be brittle..
"long live poop pipe"

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Links/

If you don't weld anything right theres a problem at the weld. Jim

I hear PVC is getting pretty tough...

I hear PVC is getting pretty tough...
if you use enough of it I'm sure it could hold up a car....:laughing:

It will cast me $300 for a 20' stick of chromolly Dom Tubing 1/8 thick and It will cost me $140 for a schedule 80 20' stick of pipe. So I need to do my links on my rig and what do you thing? Do you think the thick a$$ pipe will hold up? Let me know.

look i have used alot of stuff for links and broke almost all of it.I run a sammy with a 355 sbc with Rockwell's i learned the hard way go 2" .250 wall Dom. Now i have seen chucks trucks use 2x2 .250 wall sq tubing. I am just telling if you play hard like i do and ain't scared to try anything you better do it wright the first time or you will do it again.

look i have used alot of stuff for links and broke almost all of it.I run a sammy with a 355 sbc with Rockwell's i learned the hard way go 2" .250 wall Dom. Now i have seen chucks trucks use 2x2 .250 wall sq tubing. I am just telling if you play hard like i do and ain't scared to try anything you better do it wright the first time or you will do it again.

I would love to find out more about your setup. I am just putting together a pair of Rocks for my rig. Jim

My lowers are 2.5x2.5 .20 wall square tubing. There is no way in hell that stuff is gonna bend. I have 100 bucks in a 20' stick. Dont think anything will beat that price either.

Just my .02 worth. My buddies and i all run square tube because were cheap and we thrash on our shit.

Will

This topic should be a sticky cuz I swear it comes up at least once every other month or so...lol

I will admit that I have some pipe on my rig, but it's all in areas that won't see any kind of hard hits or real abuse, so it will be fine. One of the guys in the club does have a pipe cage and I have seen it take some hits, and so far it has held up really well. I think the design has a lot to do with it as well.

my lower links are also square tubing, I think it's 2x3, .250 wall. the links aren't really long, so I'm sure a direct hit with the weight of the truck on it wouldn't bend it. also, the weight of the whole entire truck won't be on any one link, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 of the weight might be on it, depending.....

i built my lower links from 2" .25 square.
at $4 per foot you cant go wrong.

thats what i was saying i have seen chucks trucks run this with no problem but i haven't tried it so i don't know. I but i have run pipe and it worked for a while but it did bend after awhile. i Guess it depends on how hard core you are

Tube Processes from the OFN

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

» Electric Resistance Welded (ERW)
» Cold Drawn Welded (CDW)
» Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM)
» Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS)
» Cold Rolled Electric Welded (CREW)
» Hot Rolled Electric Welded (HREW)
» What's the difference between Tube and Pipe?
» Types of Tube and Pipe

Electric Resistance Welded (ERW)
Cold formed, electric resistance welded tubing can be produced in round, square or rectangle shapes. ERW tube is produced by processing a flat rolled steel into strips which are cold-formed, welded and seam annealed or normalized (depending on the manufacturer). You can usually identify ERW tube by the blue strip down one side of the tube (which is the welded area). The ERW process can guarantee the weld to be as strong or stronger than the rest of the tube body. The origin from a flat strip results in a more concentric product than Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS). ERW can also be known as CREW (Cold Rolled Electric Welded).
Typical Applications:
Structural columns, beams, supports, heavy equipment frames with 58,000 PSI tensile.

Cold Drawn Welded (CDW)
Produced from a steel strip by cold forming, electric resistance welding (ERW) and cold drawing to finished dimensions, CDW is the most versatile and widely sold mechanical tubing grade. A variety of thermal treatments can be applied to alter the mechanical properties and machinability. CDW is used for a tremendous variety of machine parts where close tolerances and higher mechanical properties are needed.
Typical Applications:
Automotive components, shock absorbers, hydraulic cylinders, sleeves, bushings, axles and shafting.

Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM)
DOM is formed from strip and Electric Resistance Welded (ERW) then cold drawn through a die and over a mandrel resulting in improved inner surfaces and dimensional quality. This process, called cold drawing, may be repeated more than once to reach the planned OD, ID, or wall dimension. Multiple draws can also be used to increase the strength or improve the surface finish of the tubes. During the drawing operation, the tubes may be process annealed to increase the ductility of the material. Lower cost alternative to CDS with equal or superior physical properties.
Typical Applications:
Machined parts, rollers, shafts, sleeves, steering columns, axle tubes, drive shafts, bushings and is most readily adaptable in cylinder applications with a 80,000 PSI tensile.

Cold Drawn Seamless (CDS)
General purpose seamless tubing, which is a solid bar of carbon steel drawn over a mandrel to form the tube section. CDS allows selection of chemistry and rough tube size. Cold drawing produces higher physical properties without heat treating. Offers widest range of sizes and chemistries in mechanical tubing. Better tolerances and reduced machining allowances over Hot Finished Seamless (HFS).
Typical Applications:
Machined parts, bushings, spacers, bearings, rollers, shafts, sleeves and cylinders with a 75,000 PSI tensile.

Cold Rolled Electric Welded (CREW)
Cold rolled steels are steels that are shaped by high pressure rollers at normal temperature in the steel mill. Cold rolling work hardens the material substantially. The steel is then welded by the electric weld process. A cold rolled steel can be either a mild steel or a high carbon steel. Can also be termed as ERW (Electric Resistance Welded). See » ERW

Hot Rolled Electric Welded (HREW)
Hot rolled steel is steel that is rolled to size in the mill while red hot. Hot rolling steel does not work harden it as much as cold rolling. For this reason, hot rolled steel is more easily machined than cold rolled.

What's the difference between Tube and Pipe?
The general term for pipe was that it was primarily used for carrying gas or liquid. It was not intended for structural use because the dimensions used in describing pipe was not dimensionally accurate. Measurement was referred to its inside diameter and wall thickness. The inside diameter was a true dimension, but over the years had become "nominal" (in name only) so that when pipe size was referred to, it was an approximate inside diameter measurement with the thickness described by the term "schedule".

• Pipe is generally more rigid than tube, and is usually produced in heavier wall thicknesses.

• Pipe is specified by a nominal dimension which bears little or no resemblance to the actual dimensions of the pipe. 1" Schedule 40 pipe, for instance, has an actual OD of 1.32", a wall of 0.133", and an inner diameter of 1.049". Tube dimensions are actual dimensions.

• Pipe fittings are sized to meet pipe sizes, but not tube sizes. A 1" schedule 40 nipple will fit correctly on a 1" schedule 40 pipe, but not on a 1" OD tube.

Tube refers to round, square, rectangular or any shape of hollow material of uniform thickness which is defined by the outside diameter and wall thickness dimensions. It is the grade of the metals and how tube is produced and processed that is important.

• Structural Tube is generally produced using the ERW (Electric Resistance Welded) process. Identified under the Circular Hollow Section (CHS) or Hollow Structural Sections (HSS) class. Some steel mills specifically develop structural tube for roll over protective structures.

• Mechanical Tubing is usually produced as seamless, as-welded or DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) tube.

Types of Tube and Pipe

Structural Tube - high strength welded steel tubing
Mechanical Tube - seamless, as-welded and drawn over mandrel
Stainless Tubing and Pipe - several seamless and welding processes requiring resistance to corrosive materials
Standard Pipe - several seamless or electric weld process, carries liquid or gas

got a good price on DOM so I'm gona do it right the 1st time

hears a lot of folks talk about how chromoly at the weld joints is not as strong if not welded properly I woul love to hear more on that explanation

What about aluminum that should be a lot more expensive and ridiculous to put on a sammy:laughing: Its going to weigh 2000lbs what are you worried about?

Aluminum links are not ridiculous for a sami or any light weight rig. Sure, it is much lighter but also it flexes much better. I have DOM tubed links in the rear and one of them is bent from taking a pounding. My aluminum links in front are just as straight as the day they were installed.

Why choose between pipe and cromo. Kinda two extremes.

Go middle ground with standard steel DOM.
A 1.75 X .250 wall stick shouldn't cost more than $150 and will be plenty strong.

or

I just replaced my bent sch 80 lowers with 1.5x.250 wall square tube.
In my experience square is stronger in bending.
Square tube is also cheaper.

Sch 80 1 1/4 links on this one.. On a sami they will hold up as long as they are 36" or less.

I wouldnt use pipe links in anything heavier than a sami. I thought it would be cool until I bent one like a horse shoe on my tacoma.