The backround:

I just picked up a stock 5.0 for a great deal. I am planning on dropping it in my truggy this next winter but not before I work the motor a little. I would like to bump the horsepower and torque numbers to about 300 a piece. The casting on the block is 24 E7TE CA S. If I'm not mistaken that means it is a roller motor with the crappier heads E6SE-AA.

The plans:

I got some aftermarket headers and spyder intake with the motor. I was going to run the headers and intake. I was planning to port and polish the stock heads, run some roller rockers, some 24lb injectors, 70mm tb, and add a mass airflow meter.

The Questions:

Do you think that I will be around the 300/300 numbers I'm in search for? Should I waste my money on porting the standard heads or find some GT40 heads or just leave the heads alone and stick to the bolt on performance? Should I/could I just stick with the stock cam?

dont waste your time on the heads... not saying porting is a waste of time, but for the numbers you are looking for, i would just buy a set of edelbrock performer rpm heads and viola! you got what you want! no porting needed.

dont waste your time on the heads... not saying porting is a waste of time, but for the numbers you are looking for, i would just buy a set of edelbrock performer rpm heads and viola! you got what you want! no porting needed.

Think I could get the numbers I want with leaving the heads stock and just bolting on a better intake, tb, injectors, etc....or are the heads going to restrict me from getting to the 300 range?

the heads are gonna be the "bottleneck" for sure! your motor can only breathe as well as the smallest portion of the airtract will allow. you can use the edelbrock heads, good headers, intake and cam. and get where you want or even better. porting the stock heads MAY get you there, and they may not... unported... no way!

Your right. I thinking about digging through the junk yard for some GT-40 heads off an Explorer. I think this would be the best route for buget reasons. I should be able to squeze 300 out of stock GT-40 heads IMO.

Was this thing out of a crown vic? E6SE heads should be the craptastic non ho car heads that make better door stops than power numbers...

Was this thing out of a crown vic? E6SE heads should be the craptastic non ho car heads that make better door stops than power numbers...

I was told that it came out of an 88' Thunderturd. I could definately be wrong on the heads....since I could not find a casting number on them. There was an S on the front of the passenger head and an I on the front of the driver head. Do you know which heads they are?

fuck factory heads - gt40s are a better factory option, but the cost of a used set and a rebuild can put them near a set of good aluminum heads - or new iron heads

300hp is easy on a 5.0, find the right cam and head combo for your driving style - also 300hp isnt as important as the trq # in a truggy


if you get 350-375 ft lbs it will feel like 300 hp

and a 88 thunderchicken should have the E6 heads - elcrappo

the later E7s are better - but they still suck - i have only seen a few major modded E7 do anything


for the cheap get some gt40p heads from a late 98-2000 exploder with the 5.0 - a mild polish - good cam - headers - roller rockers and a mild tune - will get you near 300

fuck factory heads - gt40s are a better factory option, but the cost of a used set and a rebuild can put them near a set of good aluminum heads - or new iron heads

300hp is easy on a 5.0, find the right cam and head combo for your driving style - also 300hp isnt as important as the trq # in a truggy


if you get 350-375 ft lbs it will feel like 300 hp

Loud and clear. I'm not sure which route I will go at this point. I think I will just surf craigslist, ebay, swap meets, etc....in search for a good deal on some aluminum heads.

and a 88 thunderchicken should have the E6 heads - elcrappo

the later E7s are better - but they still suck - i have only seen a few major modded E7 do anything


for the cheap get some gt40p heads from a late 98-2000 exploder with the 5.0 - a mild polish - good cam - headers - roller rockers and a mild tune - will get you near 300

If I find the GT40P heads before some aluminums then that will likely be the way I go. I would prefer to run some iron heads for the fear of cracking aluminum heads.

I spent some money on my old 5.0l and did eddy heads, a crane 2020 cam, roller rockers, cobra upper and lower and injectors.

It was not impressive. A 3in stroke has no place in a heavy wheeler. The stone stock 5.8l sitting in there now pulls better than that modded 5.0l

I spent some money on my old 5.0l and did eddy heads, a crane 2020 cam, roller rockers, cobra upper and lower and injectors.

It was not impressive. A 3in stroke has no place in a heavy wheeler. The stone stock 5.8l sitting in there now pulls better than that modded 5.0l

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Buddy of mine did a Stroker conversion on his 302. I did a mild non-rocker build on my 351W w/ 289 heads. Both put in Early Broncos. His had 4.56 gears and 37" tires. Mine was unmodified 3.73 gears and 35" tires.

My 351W was MUCH faster to the punch then the stroked 302. Had better off the line performance. And easily, more torque.

Basically, mine was MUCH more fun to drive. Dump the 302 and get a 351W. They are cheap and easy to build.

I spent some money on my old 5.0l and did eddy heads, a crane 2020 cam, roller rockers, cobra upper and lower and injectors.

It was not impressive. A 3in stroke has no place in a heavy wheeler. The stone stock 5.8l sitting in there now pulls better than that modded 5.0l

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Buddy of mine did a Stroker conversion on his 302. I did a mild non-rocker build on my 351W w/ 289 heads. Both put in Early Broncos. His had 4.56 gears and 37" tires. Mine was unmodified 3.73 gears and 35" tires.

My 351W was MUCH faster to the punch then the stroked 302. Had better off the line performance. And easily, more torque.

Basically, mine was MUCH more fun to drive. Dump the 302 and get a 351W. They are cheap and easy to build.

Although I agree with both of you the 351 is not an option. I have almost no room to fit the 302 as is and will definately not be able to fit the 351. I'm sticking to the 302 because of the smaller dimensions. Plus I'm going to be able to get way more power out of the 302 compared to the 22re, I'm curently running.

I have got great used parts for 301/351W on corral.net a Stang site. Performance is there.

Although I agree with both of you the 351 is not an option. I have almost no room to fit the 302 as is and will definately not be able to fit the 351. I'm sticking to the 302 because of the smaller dimensions. Plus I'm going to be able to get way more power out of the 302 compared to the 22re, I'm curently running.

Gotcha. Good luck on the build. ;)

I have got great used parts for 301/351W on corral.net a Stang site. Performance is there.

Thanks for the tip!

Gotcha. Good luck on the build. ;)

I wish the 351W was smaller. I have had both motors and was not impressed with the stock 5.0 compared to the stock 5.8. It is really night and day.

call me stupid but in my research on the 302 i thought you could get a set of world 351 heads? they about the same as the aluminum heads but but cost half the price. also according to world they reworked the heads so they don't crack like the factory heads. then again i was planning on doing a stroker build and not just a beefed up 302 so i don't know what issues you might run into. and like i said i might be a total idiot and be wrong


EDIT: im not an idiot heres a link for a 400hp 302 they used the windsor heads i was talking about jegs sells them along with the head bolt adapter kit needed. also this 302 would technically be 300 hp and change at the wheels depending on tranny etc. it a really good read


http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/1999/10/400horse/index.php

It might make 400hp, but it's going to run in an rpm range that is totally worthless for a 4x4.

I would really like to motor to come alive down low not up on top......otherwise I would consider putting a turbo on a fairly stock motor.

granted i was just trying to find an article where they used the heads i was talking about. you don't have to build it in their exact rpm range. you can use different rpm range parts cam etc and build a motor based off of theirs but for your app. after reading that though i see no reason to buy aluminum heads when you can get a set of cast for half price brand new. i mean you want performance but its not going to be a drag car, jus trying to give you more options. also which you haven't mention is fairly cheap and easily you can get a 331 stroker kit or a 347 stroker kit and deck and bore the block which most engine builders tell you you should do anyway, at least thats from what i have learned

It might make 400hp, but it's going to run in an rpm range that is totally worthless for a 4x4.

Very important point. We built a 302 for an EB T/MX racer that made 486HP at the flywheel when it was dynoed. At 7300 RPM...

The 'numbers' sound impressive, yes?... and the engine/truck did well on the race track. But the few times I took it to go just 'play' on trails it was a major PITA and downright worthless. At 1600 RPM it couldn't even begin to match a bone stock 302-2v...little over 150 ft-pounds for the race motor versus 235 ft-pouinds for a stock 1980 302 at 1600.

Edit: The heads on the race 302 were 'old school' built. C9 Windsor castings that were massively ported and pocketed and polished, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, studs and guideplates, triple-springs etc. etc..cost way more than what you can buy 'off the shelf' aftermarket these days

granted i was just trying to find an article where they used the heads i was talking about. you don't have to build it in their exact rpm range. you can use different rpm range parts cam etc and build a motor based off of theirs but for your app. after reading that though i see no reason to buy aluminum heads when you can get a set of cast for half price brand new. i mean you want performance but its not going to be a drag car, jus trying to give you more options. also which you haven't mention is fairly cheap and easily you can get a 331 stroker kit or a 347 stroker kit and deck and bore the block which most engine builders tell you you should do anyway, at least thats from what i have learned

I agree with about running cast iron heads vs. aluminum. If I do buy something aside from GT40P heads then it will likely be cast iron....for more reasons than just cost. I could build a stroker but I think that will increase the cost substansially and I would still have to address the heads and EFI. This would likely bump me into the high 300's...which is fine but I rather stay closer to my budget than get that much hp.

GT Ps are going to be the best bang for the buck in heads, but just remember they do not have internal egr passages, so a later model '97 and up explorer intake or '94/'95 mustang intake with the external egr will need to be used (unless you eliminate the egr entirely).

GTPs have a high quench area in addition to high port velocities so they build torque quickly, even with the smaller than stock exhaust valve. Great heads, and cheap too.

A 347 (or 351w) with GTPs would make great torque.

GT Ps are going to be the best bang for the buck in heads, but just remember they do not have internal egr passages, so a later model '97 and up explorer intake or '94/'95 mustang intake with the external egr will need to be used (unless you eliminate the egr entirely).

GTPs have a high quench area in addition to high port velocities so they build torque quickly, even with the smaller than stock exhaust valve. Great heads, and cheap too.

A 347 (or 351w) with GTPs would make great torque.

I'm hoping to eliminate all of the emission equipment since this is in my green sticker truggy and it does not need to pass smog.

The more people pos the more I'm leaning to the GT40P's. I just need to find a set now.

I think I'm going to still run the stock short block and not build a stroker.

I've bought two sets of GT-40P heads off of Craigslist, both for $250. One set had already been freshend (sp?) up. By far the easiest, and cheapest mod anyone with a small Ford can do. Junkyards are full of the 5.0L Explorers that they came in.

I've bought two sets of GT-40P heads off of Craigslist, both for $250. One set had already been freshend (sp?) up. By far the easiest, and cheapest mod anyone with a small Ford can do. Junkyards are full of the 5.0L Explorers that they came in.

I will be running the GT40P heads. I have been checking the local craigslist but no luck yet. I rather not find any at a pick n pull because I don't feel like pulling them myself. I'm not in a huge rush so I'm just going to wait to find a fair price for the heads.

i think the gt40p heads require gt40p only headers or exhaust manifolds (and i believe exploder pass manifold exits kinda into the firewall) whereas gt40 heads use all 302 headers but i have also heard the newest headers for 5.0 will work on either, just something to look into plus gt40p exploder was only rated about 5 hp more than reg. gt40. (seems like 5 more hp wouldnt be worth extra expense) trick flow heads are based on 93-95 (cobra (5.0), cobra R (351w), and lighting (351w) heads. and to the rpm concerns we gear our vehicles so low that when we open it up on the trail or in the mud half the time we are bouncing off the rev limiter so dont be concerned with power range if your making 400 hp at 5000rpm your probly still atleast 200 hp (which is about what you started with) down low when just cruising on trail so i dont follow that argument. best of luck with it either way you go.

Read the part about the pistons I did this in my stang and a nice cam and she came to life. http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898_400_hp_302_small_block/index.html

Read the part about the pistons I did this in my stang and a nice cam and she came to life. http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898_400_hp_302_small_block/index.html

Backwards pistons, who'da thunk it? Neat trick.

Backwards pistons, who'da thunk it? Neat trick.
The piston pinholes are offset (note the difference between dimensions A and B). Sherman says installing the piston “backward” with the notch facing toward the rear as shown is worth 15-30 hp, albeit at the price of increased noise when the engine is cold
Wonder why?
Is it good for low end, upper or both? Bumps compression?



FYI, it takes a lot more than bolting on junk yard heads and intakes to get a non-HO 302 to push 300HP.

I'm planning on changing not only the heads and intake but throttle body, headers, cam, rockers, etc...... It doesn't have to be exactly 300 just somewhere in the neighborhood.