Hey guys.. I know this is gonna turn into a total flame-war post..

I've got a lunch-box in the front, and a trac-lok (READ: Trash-lok) in the rear. Well.. w/ 125k on the trac-lok, I'm looking to rebuild it w/ new clutch packs, which are relatively cheap ($50-$70) so it will give me several thousand more miles of service, at least until I'm out of school and can afford a D44 to dump the D35c I've currently got (also part of the reason i'm keeping the LSD in the rear)..

Anyone ever rebuild one of these?? how difficult is it? just drop in the new ones and rebolt back in? Randy's R&P suggested I use 2 additional spiders and a C-Clamp to compress the springs and align the holes for the cross-pin on the other two spiders..

flame away.. :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Don't waste your money and time just weld it!

Id leave it alone. Seen 35c's break with 31s and trash-locks.

Originally posted by JEEPRZ
Id leave it alone. Seen 35c's break with 31s and trash-locks. been there done that bald 31's :D

i believe you have to remove the carrier to replace the disks and that means your going to have to re set the R&P don't waste you time and money

I did mine without removing the carrier, although why removing the carrier to replace disks and putting it back in would require you to reset the pinion is beyond me :confused: The trick I used when doing my Mustang was to install the disks in a friction/steel/friction/steel/friction/steel/friction pattern instead of the normal friction/steel/steel/friction/steel/steel/friction pattern. Just re-use one of the old friction disks. I compressed the springs in a vise and clamped them with 2 hose clamps, then pounded them in, cutting off the hose clamp when they got to the carrier. Make sure you soak the disks in gear oil before installing them. I rebuilt mine 2 years ago and still haven't done a one-legged burnout.

Ahh sounds good.. how would you compress the spring down to get the cross pin back in chris? using two extra spiders and a C-Clamp? That's what was suggested but not elaborated upon over on Randy's R&P site..

I'm with you when i dont understand why pulling the carrier would cause the pinion angle to be thrown off.. not replacing any shims or unbolting the ring gear.. oh well.

Considering this jeep actually sees more road miles currently than offroad, (but still does a fair amount offroad you weenies).. i'm sticking w/ the LSD in the back for now and a locker in the front until i can afford to regear after my lift and 33's..

Originally posted by robert stone
i believe you have to remove the carrier to replace the disks and that means your going to have to re set the R&P

dumb ass :rolleyes:

Originally posted by evilpsych
Ahh sounds good.. how would you compress the spring down to get the cross pin back in chris?
If it's the same as a Mustang Trak-Lok, I just stuck the spring in a vise and clamped one side down, put a hose clamp around it and tightened it down, then flipped it around and did the same on the other side of the spring. It gets it to where you can stuff it in between the spider gears and hammer it in (using a thin block of wood) until the clamp hits the spider gears. Cut the clamp off and keep hammering until the other clamp hits the gears and cut that clamp off. Then just hammer it the rest of the way in until it lines up.

I did one in a mustang last week or the week before something like that and left the carrier in the car. just pull the c clips, slide out the axles a little pul the spring and the parts should come right out. The kit comes with extra disks so do not try to shove them all in. you could try adding an extra disk or 2 but then you will have to have about 3 to 4 people help you pry on the axels just to get the center pin back in. Also stock i believe goes metal, friction,metal, metal, friction,metal. the new kit is designed for metal, friction, metal, friction and so on. do not buy a locker for that pile rear end. these guys just want to watch you brake stuff on the trail. then they will bitch about you being in the way when it happens. And don't worry about the web wheelers.

ok cool.. oh.. for the most part... my little rig is pulling most of these armchair wheelers out half the time - equipment doesnt make up for complete lack of driver skill.... i love it when some 17yr old in daddy's lifted 1500 snaps a CV shaft because he thinks it's a badass trail monster.. then i get to pull them up.. yippie.. or pull them out of whatever mudhole they seem to get the front wheels stuck in.. last time i went to the mud pits, i towed 10 people out including one F-250... gotta love low range man..



anyway.. i'm still kinda confused about the pipe clamps.. wouldnt they get in the way of the spring? or is the spring in the middle of the clutch pack?.. i'm just a dumbass since i havent taken it apart yet.. :p :p :p

Pulling the carrier does NOT necessitate resetting the gears. That is purely a belief of those that haven't done R&P work.

No offense yellow dude, just don't make that statement again, because it's wrong. :flipoff2:

I have rebuilt a d35 track-lock and without someone who has done it before helping out, it is a PITA. If an axle swap is in your future, don't bother going through the hassle.

If you want to milk that Track-Lock for a few thousand miles more, swap out the gear lube for ATF. :D

cmk

I'm with CMK on this. First, you obviously won't need to reset the r&p since you're not touching the pinion and simply removing and reinstalling the same carrier.

Second, in my early days I did rebuild a Traclok and I found it to be a HUGE pain in the ass, particularly getting the clutch packs out.
Dion

sounds like yours didnt need rebuilding.. everything else i've read has said that if it's really worn out and needs new clutch packs the metal shims shoudl just fall out once the axles are pulled slightly..