http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk88/PaniciJeep/TroubleShooting/D35g.jpg

Circled in blue in the above picture, is a washer/spacer. When I took apart my diff originally, there was only one of these on the right hand axle shaft. (Which had almost no in/out motion).

The left hand axle shaft however, did not have one of these spacers. There is approx. 1/4 - 1/8th of an inch movement in and out of the axle shaft on that side.

My rebuild kit came with two of these spacers, should I be putting one on each side gear?

Why did you spend $$ on a D35?

I would try to install both thrust washers, if all goes well, leave them as they both should be there. However, if you need a little extra room to get the c clip in on that axle shaft, remove the thrust washer from that side (I figure if it worked in the past with only one, it will work again).

yeah both should be in there

Thanks guys for the advice. I buttoned it up with RTV tonight after using both thrust washers.

I spent (Approx $100 including shipping for the rebuild kit) on a D35, because I don't have the cash needed for a D44 swap right now, and I don't want the jeep to crap out on me when i'm adventure wheeling/camping this summer. (Just bought an '05 Yamaha R6, so the cash is going into that right now too)

I'd end up re-gearing to 4.88s, and then have to re-gear the front D30, so with all said and done, even with me doing the axle install, I am looking at close to $2000.

What I really want to do, is save up the cash to do both axles at one time. Rear D44. OX lockers and 4.88s front and rear.

Thanks guys for the advice. I buttoned it up with RTV tonight after using both thrust washers.

I spent (Approx $100 including shipping for the rebuild kit) on a D35, because I don't have the cash needed for a D44 swap right now, and I don't want the jeep to crap out on me when i'm adventure wheeling/camping this summer. (Just bought an '05 Yamaha R6, so the cash is going into that right now too)

I'd end up re-gearing to 4.88s, and then have to re-gear the front D30, so with all said and done, even with me doing the axle install, I am looking at close to $2000.

What I really want to do, is save up the cash to do both axles at one time. Rear D44. OX lockers and 4.88s front and rear.

You replaced the Spider gears? You should look at doing an 8.8 swap. A built 8.8 will be just a hair weaker than a D60. The D30 is a better axle than it is given credit for being and is good up to 35's..... what size tires do you desire to run in the future?

You replaced the Spider gears? You should look at doing an 8.8 swap. A built 8.8 will be just a hair weaker than a D60. The D30 is a better axle than it is given credit for being and is good up to 35's..... what size tires do you desire to run in the future?

Yeah replaced the spiders.

I do like the idea of an 8.8 swap, but there's welding involved, and I don't know how to weld (don't have a welder either) nor someone who i'd trust to weld it.

A D44 from a TJ would pretty much just bolt up, and I could do it myself. (besides the gear swap/locker install)

I'm installing a set of 33x12.50s tomorrow actually. That's the biggest I ever see myself going, unless I move to somewhere in the future where there is actually places to wheel. Then 35s. (Won't be for 5+ years at least)

Yeah replaced the spiders.

I do like the idea of an 8.8 swap, but there's welding involved, and I don't know how to weld (don't have a welder either) nor someone who i'd trust to weld it.

A D44 from a TJ would pretty much just bolt up, and I could do it myself. (besides the gear swap/locker install)

I'm installing a set of 33x12.50s tomorrow actually. That's the biggest I ever see myself going, unless I move to somewhere in the future where there is actually places to wheel. Then 35s. (Won't be for 5+ years at least)

In my area, D44 from a TJ are rare and you will pay major $$ for one. You might be able to get one through Davys Jeeeps. Contact Wayne Hartwig (user name on this forum), he will built you any axle to your specs, then ship it to you as a bolt in axle. With only 33 inch tires, I'd keep the D30 up front and just pay to have gears changed.

**EDIT** Wayne's contact information http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/member.php?u=35700

A built 8.8 will be just a hair weaker than a D60.


somwhow i doubt it.... it depends on what you call a 'hair weaker'

i wouldnt put the two in the same category. but thats just my opinion:flipoff2:

somwhow i doubt it.... it depends on what you call a 'hair weaker'

i wouldnt put the two in the same category. but thats just my opinion:flipoff2:

A stock D60 put up against a stock 8.8, I would say yes, they are comparable.

However, the D60 can be built with 35 spline shafts and etc. and made much stronger than the 8.8. But then again, the 8.8 can be built up as well. Putting them right back side each other.

I've got BBC's on ~42's running my built 8.8's with no issues, and they aren't nice on them. But if you saw the 8.8, you would understand, because it's not really much of an 8.8 anymore.

That said, I prefer D44's over 8.8's for applications like this. But I think the OP will be fine on said D35 with 33's and no locker. But keep in mind, when the housing starts flexing/bent, the first sign is bad spiders. So you have to look at why they are failing and etc.

But I think the OP will be fine on said D35 with 33's and no locker. But keep in mind, when the housing starts flexing/bent, the first sign is bad spiders. So you have to look at why they are failing and etc.

agreed.

A stock D60 put up against a stock 8.8, I would say yes, they are comparable.

However, the D60 can be built with 35 spline shafts and etc. and made much stronger than the 8.8. But then again, the 8.8 can be built up as well. Putting them right back side each other.

I've got BBC's on ~42's running my built 8.8's with no issues, and they aren't nice on them. But if you saw the 8.8, you would understand, because it's not really much of an 8.8 anymore.

That said, I prefer D44's over 8.8's for applications like this. But I think the OP will be fine on said D35 with 33's and no locker. But keep in mind, when the housing starts flexing/bent, the first sign is bad spiders. So you have to look at why they are failing and etc.

Hey Wayne. I learn something new each day. I was thinking a built 8.8 would be a hair weaker than a stock 60. You are saying a stock 8.8 is a hair weaker than a stock D60.... this is better than I had expected. :smokin:

Hey Wayne. I learn something new each day. I was thinking a built 8.8 would be a hair weaker than a stock 60. You are saying a stock 8.8 is a hair weaker than a stock D60.... this is better than I had expected. :smokin:

I don't recall the numbers, but I think stock for stock, the 8.8 comes in stronger. Mainly because of the 31 spline shafts compared to the 30 spline shafts of the D60.

But the D60 has very good features that the 8.8 doesn't. Well, depending on which D60... Like full float axles. And wheel bearings that don't ride on the axle shaft. I really hate this design and can't believe it's done. D60's do it, too, if they are semi float, and also use c clips.

If someone had one or the other, there is no reason to change. But someone coming up from a D35, can go either way depending on their ability and the availability of said item. The 8.8 is definately a great low budget swap for a Jeep and you don't have width issues to worry about, like you would with a wider D60. Plus, you can easily keep your 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. It's really hard to run a 5 on 5.5 pattern with a D60, not impossible though. Impossible to run 5 on 4.5, though.

So there are benifits all around to either, and also disadvantages. But no, I wouldn't be concerned about the strenght of the 8.8 if it's built correctly - you know that ;)

--snip--

I wouldn't be concerned about the strenght of the 8.8 if it's built correctly - you know that ;)

When I go wheel-n, I have concerns about breaking stuff. However, breaking the 8.8 isn't one of my concerns. :)

In my area, D44 from a TJ are rare and you will pay major $$ for one. You might be able to get one through Davys Jeeeps. Contact Wayne Hartwig (user name on this forum), he will built you any axle to your specs, then ship it to you as a bolt in axle. With only 33 inch tires, I'd keep the D30 up front and just pay to have gears changed.

**EDIT** Wayne's contact information http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/member.php?u=35700

I don't even want to know how much it would be to ship an axle to me here in Canada. The sheer weight (and therefore price to ship) combined with the border charges would be insane.


But keep in mind, when the housing starts flexing/bent, the first sign is bad spiders. So you have to look at why they are failing and etc.

Excuse the noob question, but how would I know that the housing is flexing/bent?

Also, could the damage I have on my old spider gear be because that thrust washer was missing before?

(Here is the damage on the old left side gear)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk88/PaniciJeep/TroubleShooting/D35/Untitled-114.jpg

Shipping to Canada actually isn't very bad. Not sure about taxes, because I don't pay those, but shipping costs are about the same as the same distance in the states.

Do you have a lot of miles on that axle? That's what it looks like from here, in the picture.

The easiest way to tell if it was bent would be to pull the shafts and look through it with the carrier/seals/bearings installed still. If you see a perfect circle all the way through, your good. If you see a partial or flat sided circle, your in trouble.

With what I see in the picture, I think you are perfectly fine with just rebuilding the spiders.

Shipping to Canada actually isn't very bad. Not sure about taxes, because I don't pay those, but shipping costs are about the same as the same distance in the states.

Do you have a lot of miles on that axle? That's what it looks like from here, in the picture.

The easiest way to tell if it was bent would be to pull the shafts and look through it with the carrier/seals/bearings installed still. If you see a perfect circle all the way through, your good. If you see a partial or flat sided circle, your in trouble.

With what I see in the picture, I think you are perfectly fine with just rebuilding the spiders.

Axle has just under 50K miles. Believe it or not.

Yesterday I put the new spiders in, and sealed it up with RTV. Just put gear lube in this afternoon.

I'll check out the axle with the shafts pulled, after I change my lube next time I sink the rear end.
I honestly don't think this could be an issue though, as the jeep looked to be pretty much a street queen before I got it, and I don't abuse it when I do get the chance to wheel.

Axle has just under 50K miles. Believe it or not.

Yesterday I put the new spiders in, and sealed it up with RTV. Just put gear lube in this afternoon.

I'll check out the axle with the shafts pulled, after I change my lube next time I sink the rear end.
I honestly don't think this could be an issue though, as the jeep looked to be pretty much a street queen before I got it, and I don't abuse it when I do get the chance to wheel.

COuld just be faulty material then... Or there was water in there at some point, rusted the gear and then been driven on over time.

Typically with a bad housing, I see teeth missing/cracked/etc. Not what you shwo in the picture. What I see in the picture could be poor maintenance, long wear, or faulty material. not a lead foot or offroad abuse.

COuld just be faulty material then... Or there was water in there at some point, rusted the gear and then been driven on over time.

Typically with a bad housing, I see teeth missing/cracked/etc. Not what you shwo in the picture. What I see in the picture could be poor maintenance, long wear, or faulty material. not a lead foot or offroad abuse.

I'm betting it's the water then. When I pulled the cover last, the fluid was a little murky, i'm betting from my late summer wheeling last year. So I ran with that water in there all winter.

I didn't even think to check, but hindsight is 20/20.

my money says the missing thrust washer caused the damage. if that spider gear is walking every time it is under load it can wear like that.

I'm betting it's the water then. When I pulled the cover last, the fluid was a little murky, i'm betting from my late summer wheeling last year. So I ran with that water in there all winter.

I didn't even think to check, but hindsight is 20/20.

I bet this is what caused it.. The gears had a little surface rust on them, which causes them to weaken/break down. Water also freezes and once the gear started to crack, water got into the cracks and opened them up.

Off topic, but could you bend the axle if it fell off of jackstands and the backing plate of the drum break housing on one side took the impact?

Off topic, but could you bend the axle if it fell off of jackstands and the backing plate of the drum break housing on one side took the impact?

Absolutely!

When did the spider gears fail? Were you wheeling or just on the street?


I busted mine while heading up a rock incline on a trail, Replaced it with a locker (I know), Next trip broke an axle shaft. Video of the break (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=766471)

Installed an 8.8 for about $600 total, and thats paying a welder to weld the brackets on.

I am even toying with the idea of putting one up front.

Absolutely!

That's what I thought as well. It happened to my stupid ass while I was doing all this work. Got the bright idea to jack it up from the rear bumper, jack failed and the jeep fell off the drivers side jackstand.

That happened just a few days ago though, these spider gears were like this before.

I took it for a drive today, what would be signs of something bent when i'm driving? It feels normal besides pulling to the left. (It pulled to the left before, a few weeks ago when I last drove it. When I still had the 31s on, but it didnt pull this much).


When did the spider gears fail? Were you wheeling or just on the street?
I am even toying with the idea of putting one up front.

They didn't actually fail, but were wearing badly.

Best to just pull the shafts and look through the housing when you dump the fluid next time. I wouldn't worry too much about it right now. Chances are the housing is still fine.

That's what I thought as well. It happened to my stupid ass while I was doing all this work. Got the bright idea to jack it up from the rear bumper, jack failed and the jeep fell off the drivers side jackstand.

That happened just a few days ago though, these spider gears were like this before.

I took it for a drive today, what would be signs of something bent when i'm driving? It feels normal besides pulling to the left. (It pulled to the left before, a few weeks ago when I last drove it. When I still had the 31s on, but it didnt pull this much).




They didn't actually fail, but were wearing badly.

Since they didn't fail, but were wearing bad I would say it was due to the washer not being installed, Consider your self lucky the D35 will fail for about any reason.

I wouldn't be to too concerned over the axle being bent, If it bent theres not much you can do about, just run it as is, Most likely its ok.

The larger tires will make it pull more if it is out of alignment.

Best to just pull the shafts and look through the housing when you dump the fluid next time. I wouldn't worry too much about it right now. Chances are the housing is still fine.

Will do.



The larger tires will make it pull more if it is out of alignment.

I figured it's my toe-in. The tie rod was the biggest PITA you've ever seen last time I did a driveway alignment. I pretty much put a giant pipe wrench on it and jumped up and down on a cheater bar to get it to move. (After soaking the ends for a few days with PB Blaster).

So I guess i'm looking at a new tie rod and ends, because i'm sure as hell not doing that again (may have actually bent the tie-rod a little doing that now that I think of it, I believe the stock TJ one is hollow.)

What's the cheapest upgrade I can do? Used ZJ bar and ZJ tie rod ends? What's the cheapest route to go with new parts?