Ok I save up some coin and bought a 3 speed mini monster STaK case.

The plan. Pull the old tranny and transfer case (done) flush the old cooler and install new tranny. ( I bought a rebuilt IH unit that was pulled from somebody elses project, Jeep tail housing was already attached)

Might need to make a new cross member, at least move the cross member support back a few inches. I moved the engine back and the current location makes it a pain to access the tranny pan bolts for maintenace. I just moved the tranny mount to the front holes on the tail housing.

I'm sure there will be some exhaust work needed, but won't know for a few days.

How big is a mini, well after some searching I found an Atlas manual on the web, but not at the Advance Adapter website:shaking: and they are about the same size, within an inch. Maybe that's why I pick a STaK, I like there web site better:flipoff2:

I decide to add the t-case brake as I wanted my e-brake back. That could be a whole thread by its self.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=446224&d=1243890895

Do you need the mini box to fit between the Scout II rails, or would the regular box fit?

I'm jealous. :grinpimp:

:smokin:

Can't wait to see this.

Do you need the mini box to fit between the Scout II rails, or would the regular box fit?

I'm jealous. :grinpimp:

The mini is a cheaper and I got a great discount over MSRP. I was looking at their 2 speed box for years vs the atlas 2 speed box. The full size monster box is like an inch wider to the passenger side. So that would be tight. It really depends on how far you clock it up. But it's only metal and I have an electric glue gun :smokin:

The mini is a cheaper and I got a great discount over MSRP. I was looking at their 2 speed box for years vs the atlas 2 speed box. The full size monster box is like an inch wider to the passenger side. So that would be tight. It really depends on how far you clock it up. But it's only metal and I have an electric glue gun :smokin:

OK, so the Monster Box & the Monster B-Box (which is what I thought you were talking about) are the same price, same ratios, etc. but the B-box is for cramped quarters.

This "mini" is new to me, costs $400 less, and other than a slight change in gear ratios (5.44 vs 5.22) I see nothing different in the specs (OK, 30 bolts in the mini, 60 in the others).

What makes the Monster better than the Monster-Mini then?

The other thing I keep wanting to see is input-torque-ratings for the Stak and the Atlas to compare with an NP205.

The other thing I keep wanting to see is input-torque-ratings for the Stak and the Atlas to compare with an NP205.


I've looked around and can't seem to find this numbers either. I want to think Atlas quoted some ridiculous number ( like 5,555) in 4-wheeler or one of those rags. I'd be VERY interested. I'm sure it wont matter to me and my mild sbf but still nice to know.

It's almost X-fer buying time on my parts hording extravaganza!:grinpimp:

Looks good Craig. Make sure you post up on the e brake as well.

I posted up the pictures you asked for on the cross member thread. I did the E-brake on the 4spd Atlas, Parts Mike set up is :smokin:. My case is about an inch below the frame rail on the right, but so is the 5spd IH tranny. If I had a 2" body lift it would have all fit up tight. My Scout is linked so the tranny and case are still above the link mounts so I plan a skid plate to protect the investment.

What makes the Monster better than the Monster-Mini then?


The monster box is stronger period.

However from what I've seen on the trail and customer feed back from the cases I've sold at the shop, the mini isn't having any ''pop out'' issues. The monster case has been known to pop out of gear esp during front digs. The problem is supposed to be fixable if you want to pay to ship your 150lb case back to stack. I on the other hand would just buy the mini stack and be done with it.

Couple progress pic's. Old tranny transfer case, out on Sunday. New tranny back in yesterday. It's just got a couple bolts holding up there, need to make a new cross member. The Jeep tail housing mounting holes are about a 1/2 closer than the IH, so the foot needs to be modified a bit too.

Edit. Found the e-brake would not open enough to slip over the rotor, so I sanded about .050 off the foot to allow it to open more. I called they said they never had that issue before. 10 minute fix, not worth sending it back.

Had to work Sat, but got some time on Sunday. Got the stock cross member back in. had to move the mount as I move the engine back 2.5" and the old location would not work with the deep dish oil pan. Made some brackets and still need to weld them on. Got the t-case installed, it's just hanging there as I try and figure out drive line issue with the deep pan. The case is above the frame rails:smokin: No clue where the exhaust will be going yet:homer:

This thread is awesome! I have been researching a 203/300 doubler, but this looks like a much cleaner install. mebbe I need to look into this route.

The clearance between the shaft and the tranny looks close, my last square driveshaft contacted a bolt on the pan under full compression as i was laying over on the passenger side and shot it through the pan. Sweet case!

The clearance between the shaft and the tranny looks close, my last square driveshaft contacted a bolt on the pan under full compression as i was laying over on the passenger side and shot it through the pan. Sweet case!

This case is wider than the Dana 20 so that helps a lot. But this pan is twice as deep as my deep dish pan:eek: I'm thinking I might need to pull the pan and hack off a piece and weld it back up. Sure would be nice have some scrap cast aluminum to practice on first. Cast welds so much different that billet.

This case is wider than the Dana 20 so that helps a lot. But this pan is twice as deep as my deep dish pan:eek: I'm thinking I might need to pull the pan and hack off a piece and weld it back up. Sure would be nice have some scrap cast aluminum to practice on first. Cast welds so much different that billet.

I have a steel tranny pan that came off my 47RE that is deeper than a 727 pan, but a little shallower than your cast pan. Let me know if you have any interest in it.

I have a steel tranny pan that came off my 47RE that is deeper than a 727 pan, but a little shallower than your cast pan. Let me know if you have any interest in it.

you're still trying to peddle that 47re pan?

you're still trying to peddle that 47re pan?

WhyTF not? It's just sitting around here collecting dust. If it can be of use to someone, I'd love to quit tripping over it.

Craig are you running any body lift? I cannot tell from the pics. I am curious because you said that you were able to get a flat belly.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=447244&stc=1&d=1244439437

Does anyone see something odd about that pic?

yeah, the RS mount needs rewelded or redone.

yeah, the RS mount needs rewelded or redone.

Don't ya just love pictures:flipoff2: Yikes, I never noticed that. No big deal I have an electric glue gun. It's funny I will be looking all over and inspecting chit and then take a few pics and find stuff I never saw.

I have a deep dish metal pan and that is the easy route. But I need to look at it as it did get whacked by the drive line. ( pre clearanced:shaking:)

Edit... Rueben 2" body lift.

Don't ya just love pictures:flipoff2: Yikes, I never noticed that. No big deal I have an electric glue gun. It's funny I will be looking all over and inspecting chit and then take a few pics and find stuff I never saw.

I have a deep dish metal pan and that is the easy route. But I need to look at it as it did get whacked by the drive line. ( pre clearanced:shaking:)

Ummm...what about the spring bushing spacer?

Ummm...what about the spring bushing spacer?

That's exactly what I was just saying to my Wife. :shaking:

The RS is fine, might be a bent bolt or one side is just longer then the other.
I've bottem out the suspension a few times too.
A better idea would be to make some bent hangers and get rid of that spacer.

I put the pass. exhaust pipe up there and I will need to cross over under the tranny and out.
Going around the T/C is doable if I went outside the frame or on top of it. But that idea just seems dumb, so I need to make a cross over this weekend.

I agree the shackle looks wrong, but will an angled shackle limit your compression travel by hitting the frame? I have seen a lot of rigs with this setup work very well, just looks fawked up.

Fucking run it.

Fucking run it.

Sounds like a plan! Right now with both drivelines missing, I can only wheel a place called "four jackstands" lol

The other thing I keep wanting to see is input-torque-ratings for the Stak and the Atlas to compare with an NP205.

I think this is prety simple really. The weak point on these cases seems to be the input splines. Any two cases with the same input would have about the same overall strength.
It's not a torque number but why do we need a number? This also goes along with the argument that a NP 202 is stronger than a NP 205.:shaking:

That limp dick setup you got doesn't flex at all :flipoff2:

http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/ih-sierra-fall-rallye/2699d1223951157-2008-sierra-fall-rallye-rallye3.jpg
http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/ih-sierra-fall-rallye/2700d1223951157-2008-sierra-fall-rallye-rallye4.jpg

:shaking:

That limp dick setup you got doesn't flex at all :flipoff2:
:shaking:

I've trimmed the fenders since then.:flipoff2:

Been messing around with the exhaust. I just did some cut and pasted of the old setup.

Dude with that high dollar case how does that square frt shaft work. I am just curious if you got any vibration at speed before your new case. Lookin good but I would look at raping that exhaust where it goes under the tranny, that will also help with the cabin temps. With out a body lift your floors will get redicoulous hot, ask how I know.

...I would look at raping that exhaust...

:eek: :barf:

The sq shaft was up there to figure out where the exhaust needs to go. You can only go about 25 mph with it ingauged.
I was thinking of wrap or heat shield. Most everything is just temporary to figure out what needs to go where.

I'm thinking JetFxr has the right idea on a the E-brake, direct coupling to hand brake in the center of the seats. I was hoping to re-use stock foot e-brake pedal, but that will be tricky with the exhaust in place.

I got the shifters installed, but had to make an extension to the stock mounting so the shifters would be more straight up and down.

Need to order some parts, to get the exhaust button up, and need a triple stick boot too. Driveshaft will be after that.

On the e-brake I unbolted the level plate to and flipped it over so the pull was up, suspect they come for drivers drop. Now need to find a lever for the e-brake

:smokin:

I just did some cut and pasted of the old setup.

Where did you get that Y for the exhaust. I am looking at doing the same thing for my 800A when I rebuild my cage and add sliders. I need to route the passenger side exhaust around the tranny to the drivers then merge to one tube. Been looking for that kind of Y.

Why did you use a MIG instead of your TIG?

Where did you get that Y for the exhaust. I am looking at doing the same thing for my 800A when I rebuild my cage and add sliders. I need to route the passenger side exhaust around the tranny to the drivers then merge to one tube. Been looking for that kind of Y.

Why did you use a MIG instead of your TIG?

flowmaster Y

Looking at it now, I could move the e-brake bracket over and then make an "L" looking shape with a pivot point in the heel to give the cable pull a torque multiplier. Figure out some way to mount the L and use the stock foot e-brake pedal. :smokin: Can't figure out how to draw it on the current photo to make sense.

Why did you use a MIG instead of your TIG?

Lazy. The TIG works great, but the glue gun is faster when you crawling in and out from under the Scout. Since it was there I just keep using it.
I've been using the TIG on a lot of things lately, not because that was the only way. Just wanting to keep my welding skills up.

I Just built a bumper for my bro's Heep and TIG'ed the whole thing
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=446225&d=1243891161

Damn, Damn, Damn I think thats the line from back to the future.

Well thats my line. I used the stock cross member at the stock level, but the Output flange is not at 3 degrees, it's more like 8 aggh! Easy enough to push everything up, might have to cut and bend my exhaust a bit.:shaking:

3 degrees drive train tilt is correct right? Thats what comes to mind anyway. (Edit: search on the Binder Plant show the tilt is 5 degrees)

Edit.. here's the money shots, as you can see there is a big difference

Some more bling showed up.

Well after being gone for a couple weeks, I'm back at it. I had basically start over with having to raise the tranny, meant having to clock the t-case lower so the front drive-line angle would be ok. After a couple test fits I got it as low as it would go and still have the case above the frame rails. I had to mess around with the e-brake to get it to bolt up. I flipped the bracket over and it bolt up with the lever straight up and downl. Once installed I realized it was to tight on the rotor on one side, so I sanded off 50 thousandth off the 2 tube spacers. I think whoever makes the brake parts must have got new supplier for the pads as there are just a tad thicker. No big deal, but sure sucks up time messing around with little chit.

Trying to figure out the e-brake cable setup. Need some sort of arm to change direction unless I move the brake setup. Right now it's setup to be pulled down or up. So a hand brake would work, but I want to use a foot brake to keep the center area clear of stuff. A simple shackle type arm will allow the change from vertical to horizontal, plus I can drill a couple holes to change the pivot point to match the cable pull distance to the arm pull needed.

Just picture a dog leg shackle in there

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=452819&stc=1&d=1247006088

Drivelines showed up and the tranny pan needs to be modified. I pulled the pan last night in prep for tonights mods. Wish me luck on welding the cast aluminum.

Items to finish before test drive.. Hopefully tonight.

1. Connect up the exhaust pipes.
2. Fill T/C will oil
3. Install rear driveline. ( Need to go to driveline shop and get longer 12mm flange bolts)
4. Install T/C shifters, cut hole in tranny tunnel cover and install boot.
5. Hack chop weld tranny pan and install, then fill with oil. check cooler connections and connect transmission shifter to cable and install boot.

Items to finish once everything looks good.
1. Connect up cable to T/C brake. ( still need to mount dog leg pivot point, parts on order)
2. Check for loose bolts.
3. Install skid plate. ( still need to make that)

With the weekend coming I'm pushing hard to just get it off the driveway.

I know your thinking how long does it take to put that thing in.:homer:

Well last Friday and Sat. Matt and Jesse stop by to give me a hand. We got the shifters installed, drivelines bolted up. Driveline yoke hoged out so it won't bind. Tranny and TC filled up with oil. and a quick drive around the block to see how the new T/c worked. It took hours to figure out and make and install them shifters. I had them installed once, but with the new clocked position I had to do it over. The Tranny oil pan mod took like 2 hours. I think every thing I touch took 2 hours, so the time flew by.

More pic's. I added more insulation to the tranny tunnel after a drive and noticed a ton more heat comming up. I even bought some pads for the floor as it 100+ outside and don't need it to be 180 inside the cab:shaking:

Some pic's of the tranny pan mods. welded up the 1/2 NPT hole and re tapped it for 1/8 too.
I did not get the inside as clean and the welding shows it, but since it was cast I keep the heat down and just welded it inside and out.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=453606&d=1247291898

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=453607&d=1247291898

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=453608&d=1247291898

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=453609&d=1247291898

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=453610&d=1247292362

I see you've done the "bilge pump" mod..... for running Fordyce, I presume. :laughing::flipoff2:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=454467&stc=1&d=1247671179

I see you've done the "bilge pump" mod..... for running Fordyce, I presume. :laughing::flipoff2:


I does get deep in spots LOL

That switch is for the fan. It was cheap and did all the functions I needed.
ON for when I'm too hot
AUTO for normal driving
OFF for water crossing, just need to remember to turn it off:shaking:

It was labeled, led lights, water proof switch covers and easy to mount.
I will move it up to the dash one day.

If your stock foot operated E-brake doesn't ent up working for you, try one of these forklift style ones:

I'm thinking about using one of these on mine:

http://store.colemans.com/cart/emergency-brake-handle-p-721.html

454570

Thanks for the link, I've seen em on UPS trucks and other equipment.

Three of us got a new transfer cases and were going on a test run this weekend. So the e-brake is on hold while I get everything else done. I need to make a skid plate, but running out of time fast. I spent a bunch of time sealing up the cab from the engine as it's 100+ here, so even a small hole in the tranny tunnel cover is like a blast furnace. Still dialing in the tranny throttle pressure rod and other items like a heater core block off.

Pick up some PEX ball valves at HD for this and they will work great for this. Got them installed before class tonight. Ya I put one on each line to make sure the water stays a bit cooler as I hate being cooked alive.

Still don't have the e-brake setup done:shaking: Last couple weekends have been spent add a second tranny cooler behind the headlight and running new lines from the transmission. This was needed after a test run the previous weekend showed the new tranny likes to run HOT. I've also been working on my belly pan too. I drilled 8 holes in the frame and will weld some nuts in there so the pan will be bolted tight to the frame. This is needed to help with frame twisting I could have used a riv-nut gun, but wanted them in there permanent, so welding nuts flush in the frame it is. I need to take a couple pic's, but used what I had lying around as that is cheaper:flipoff2: So the belly pan will be some 3/16" steel. Aluminum would have been nice, but could not find a used piece for the price I could afford.

Edit: added pic. I added a loose fitting hinge, so I can remove and install without a floor jack or two people. Just slide the hinge pin in and then the its a piece of cake to install the bolts.

Ever figure out that parking brake?

craig,

unless I missed it, is that the only orientation you have for the ebrake cable? On my 205, its clockable. I used my stock floor pedal, and found a rear ebrake cable out of 86 Mark Viii IIRC. I used a couple pieces from stock ford stuff, and a turn buckle to adjust tension. I know its not exactly the same, as your set up, but may help so here are a few pics.

Mark VIII cable
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/503032/fullsize/ebrakebracket.jpg

I wleded a tab on the housing to hold the other end of the cable
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/503033/fullsize/ebrakebracket2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/503034/fullsize/ebrakelinkage1.jpg

Mostly ignore this picture as for the pulley etc, this was the first version, which I changed to the turn buckle I mentioned. But, I wanted you to see where the Mark line ends for hook up. IIRC, its about a 30" line.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/503035/fullsize/ebrakelinkage2.jpg

If your stock foot operated E-brake doesn't ent up working for you, try one of these forklift style ones:

I'm thinking about using one of these on mine:

http://store.colemans.com/cart/emergency-brake-handle-p-721.html

454570

has anyone used these? Do they apply enough pressure? I know several years ago when I did mine, Jesse at HAD was saying that mechanical advantage and force applied was important for proper braking. He had suggested a Lokar hand version. Most foot styles seemed to have enough pressure.

I use one on my SSII trans brake, works very good and you can adjust the tension with the handle. If you forget to release it, it will break loose on the mount:homer: been there done that.

awesome, Im buying one too for 5 bucks, shit, Im ay buy a couple just in case.

I'm a slacker:homer: I got everything mounted and the pedal installed. Just need to run the cable and try it out. need to add a multipler too as the pedel pulls more cable than the lever moves. Rigth now, I'm working 2 jobs again and going to school at night. So maybe when the weather warms up and the days get longer.

This thread is awesome! I have been researching a 203/300 doubler, but this looks like a much cleaner install. mebbe I need to look into this route.

I'll sell you one and buy this :eek: :grinpimp:

There was a bit more support than what you see here, but it still did not make shifting easy.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=454465&stc=1&d=1247671179


added some support in the front, classic stuff. I add one thing and test it out then add more and more.
To do it over might be different, but it works good. Still did not solve the popping out of gear issue.