I was looking for a diesel to swap into my '75 Ford.. Found an '83 on Craigs with a 7.3l swapped in, and everything to turbo it. It runs strong, starts right up.. but on the way home we noticed it smokes like a bitch... white smoke. Then I remembered the PO vaguely mentioning that it was a little low on oil... Crap. I don't know anything about diesels.. Does anyone have suggestions as to what it might be? It was supposed to have 80k on it.. It doesn't always smoke.. It's a pre-PS.

Did I just screw myself out of some cash?

well, it could be a few things. if the white smoke is sorta blue and on the deceleration, injectors.but more info is needed from you, like when does it smoke, hows the power, whats the oil, water look like, whats the ph of the water?does it use oil,water?

Is it reluctant to start? I have a 90' f-250 diesel, when my glow plugs go out it is hard to start at first then puffs out white smoke until all the cylinders warm up and start burning proper.

It has awesome power, fires right up even cold. It does have a hint of blue to it. I just checked the oil, and the pan is pretty much empty. Water if ok. It ran awesome coming home.. Rings? Oil looks/looked clean, but it is now very low.

Turbo

Turbo
turbo? s'plain pleese

seal out in the turbo allowing oil to pass and go into intake. pull a hose off and look for oil.

seal out in the turbo allowing oil to pass and go into intake. pull a hose off and look for oil.

Yeah...what he said. :D I guess I was kinda vague. Check the white smoke and see if it smells like oil or unburned diesel.

Wait...I went back and read the original post....is the turbo installed or loose but included in the deal? If it's not installed please disregard my post and concentrate on the replies from the people who can actually read. :shaking:

small ammouts of white smoke could be the engine being run lean...more could be the oil seal on the turbo or leaking injectors..

try www.oilburners.net for the best for IDI diesel info...

Thanks for all of the help guys! The turbo setup was included, but is not hooked up... yet :) . Even though the oil read low on the dip stick, I just drained like 2 1/2 gallons out of the pan. The oil seemed a little thin. No wated or anything, but maybe the PO was running too thin of oil? The smoke smells like burnt oil to me, but I'm new to diesels and don't really know the smell. I am going to freshen the oil and take a vid since I suck at explaining..lol. What oil would you guys recommended ?

Thanks!

Thanks for all of the help guys! The turbo setup was included, but is not hooked up... yet :) . Even though the oil read low on the dip stick, I just drained like 2 1/2 gallons out of the pan. The oil seemed a little thin. No wated or anything, but maybe the PO was running too thin of oil? The smoke smells like burnt oil to me, but I'm new to diesels and don't really know the smell. I am going to freshen the oil and take a vid since I suck at explaining..lol. What oil would you guys recommended ?

Thanks!

In a 7.3 IDI motor any good oil, pretty sure all ours ever got was Mystic 15-50. They are not picky engines, tough as fuck, and they will run fine until you get them hot once. Then you are on the journey to scrounge up heads if it doesn't eat a piston first.

The turbo setup was included, but is not hooked up... yet :) .

My bad, I doubt it can cause a smoke issue laying in the bed. :D


Even though the oil read low on the dip stick, I just drained like 2 1/2 gallons out of the pan.

Yeah, they hold plenty. You might verify it's the correct dipstick......


What oil would you guys recommended ?

Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo seem to be popular.

Rotella FTMFW. I sold my '88 F-250, and the new owner still uses the same oil I did.

And for $800, you got a helluva deal. Regardless of its running condition. 7.3's rock.

You got me, wtf does 'FTMFW' mean? :homer:

I run Rotella too, but it's not like I get to drive that transmission pukin bitch.

I would take a vid of the smoke but I can't get the glow plug warmer thing to work. Everytime I turn the ign. on it pops a fuse. I think the relay is bad.. getting a new one tomorrow. Also going to grab some oil. Sounds like Rotella 15 50 ? How much oil should I get? looks like it holds about 5gallons lol. Also, What is the general method for replacing the throw out bearing? Drop the trans, slide it on, done? Or does the T-case have to move as well? Sorry for the poor spelling,etc. I have to use my phone to access the internet, and my keyboard is not very big...LOL

it should take about 10 quarts, but if you use the bigger powerstroke filter, it takes about 11.

Check the CDR valve on the back of the intake, they can mess up, and cause the motor to suck oil into the intake. You will really love it with the turbo on it... mine went from ok power, to a fucking animal after I put the turbo on it...

:d

even though the oil read low on the dip stick, i just drained like 2 1/2 gallons out of the pan.

you might verify it's the correct dipstick.......

it should take about 10 quarts, but if you use the bigger powerstroke filter, it takes about 11.

Also check the fuel filter and fuel filter housing, if it gets really dirty down in the bottom of the housing it will smoke like crazy when decelerating.

Another possibility is blown headgaskets/cracked heads or pinholed cylinders. Either allows coolant to enter during the intake stroke & is subsequently combusted. I found out the hard way. This doesn't have blue smoke though... just white or grey/white

it should take about 10 quarts, but if you use the bigger powerstroke filter, it takes about 11.
x2 on PSD filter

Here is a very valuable resource for IDI's:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=34

Thanks guys! Any ideas on the glow plug problem? It's only getting power to one side of the solonoid. I just woke up.. can't think of how to spell it..lol. It's the one that sits on the little glow plug brain box.

Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it!

I just looked into the CDR.. There is oil in the intake, and the CDR is pretty oily and looks really old. I am hoping that it is causing the smoking.

As for the glow plugs.. I checked them, and 2 were burnt out. I read that the GPC will not work if there is more then 1 bag plug. Hopefully that is the issue for the glow plugs.. I am going to replace them and do the GPC bypass thing.

The PO said he put a new throw out bearing in the trans, but it makes a lot of bad noise. Not gear noise, whining/squeeling.. Sounds like the bearing. If it is something worse, what are some good trannies to look for that would be a direct swap?

I'm not sure what it has in it now.. it's a 4spd (?).

the 4 speed should be T-19, very nice trannys.. Allthough the zf 5-speed from the later trucks is alot nicer..

I looked on the door tag and the code is "P" , which I believe means it is a t19. That is assuming the PO kept the stock tranny in when he did the 6.9-7.3 swap. I will look at the trans and verify it later. I'm hoping he just installed the throw out bearing wrong, or in fact did not install a new one as he said. Otherwise, I am not sure what the noise could be. It is definitely the trans, but doesn't sound like gears or the clutch. I guess I will find out when I pull it.

I am going to get the glow plugs, oil, new CDR valve, and relay today and rewire the GPC according to an article I found online to bypass the GPC. Hopefully that fixes things.. As of now it looks like I will not have the time to swap everything into my '75 for a few weeks.. so I will most likely tag the '83 and drive it for a few.

Thanks!

You got me, wtf does 'FTMFW' mean? :homer:

I run Rotella too, but it's not like I get to drive that transmission pukin bitch.

ForTheMotherFuckingWin.

I used to run Rotella in everything as well, even my gassers.

I just looked into the CDR.. There is oil in the intake, and the CDR is pretty oily and looks really old. I am hoping that it is causing the smoking.

Just disconnect it from the intake & drive it for a few days, see if the smoke stops. It may not immediately because of residual oil... older diesels just dumped the crank case gases/vapors below the cab.

it should take about 10 quarts, but if you use the bigger powerstroke filter, it takes about 11.

That's all they take? I figured they'd be the same as a powerstroke... As for the oil, any good 15-40 should work fine. My dad and I buy Case IH 15-40 in 55 gal. drums and run it in everything we own.

Just disconnect it from the intake & drive it for a few days, see if the smoke stops. It may not immediately because of residual oil... older diesels just dumped the crank case gases/vapors below the cab.

AND if it does fix it...you can do a CDR bypass that vents the crankcase to the air..or into the exhaust...check oilburners TECH in the 6.9/7.3 section for a "how-to"...its easy...

You guys are awesome! Hopefully I can get it fired today so that I can start stripping it. :)
I ended up getting Rotella 15 40. Buying oil for these things suck..lol.

You guys are awesome! Hopefully I can get it fired today so that I can start stripping it. :)
I ended up getting Rotella 15 40. Buying oil for these things suck..lol.

boy are you in for an eye opener :laughing:

Another thing you better do is make sure you run the additive in the radiator to prevent cavitation. If you don't, it will pit a hole in a cylinder and then your basically looking at replacing a short block. I know from experience with my own truck.

If you know someone with a diesel compression tester, that is a good test to tell you the overall health of your bottom end.

Once you get the turbo on, don't push her much past about 15 psi of boost or you will stretch the torque to yield head bolts.

Make sure you turn up the pump once the turbo is on too. It makes a huge difference in power, but you should run a pyro to keep an eye on temps. Anything over 1200 for very long is detrimental to everything.

Last thing, definately do yourself a favor and bypass that POS glow plug controller. That is the biggest waste of $180.00 on that engine.

Good luck with the swap.

Thanks for the advice. I will get some of that additive today. I'm not sure what it's called, but I will look for it.

I still can't get power to the glow plugs. When I finally did, the solonoid started smoking. Maybe it's bad.. I'm buying a new one today. It has been pretty warm though, and from what I've been told it should start without them unless it's cold out (?). I gave it a SMALL shot of starting fluid to get it to fire.. It fired right up, no hesitation. I let it run for about 2 minutes.. turned it off, and fired it right back up, no problem. I was told that it might be running rich, causing it to smoke white, and making it difficult to start without the glow plugs (?) .

Would someone please post/link me to a picture of the stock wiring for the GPC? I am trying to wire it back to factory, then if it works I will do the correct GPC bypass method. The PO wired it really strange with another solonoid.. Any pictures would be VERY helpful! I think I have the GPC itself figured out, but the wiring from there...???



THANKS!

Another thing you better do is make sure you run the additive in the radiator to prevent cavitation. If you don't, it will pit a hole in a cylinder and then your basically looking at replacing a short block. I know from experience with my own truck.

If you know someone with a diesel compression tester, that is a good test to tell you the overall health of your bottom end.

Once you get the turbo on, don't push her much past about 15 psi of boost or you will stretch the torque to yield head bolts.

Make sure you turn up the pump once the turbo is on too. It makes a huge difference in power, but you should run a pyro to keep an eye on temps. Anything over 1200 for very long is detrimental to everything.

Last thing, definately do yourself a favor and bypass that POS glow plug controller. That is the biggest waste of $180.00 on that engine.

Good luck with the swap.

x2 to everything he said.


Cdnsarguy's image, user on TDS. He is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to IDI's.
Solid State Glow Plug Controller:
http://photos.thedieselstop.com/data/500/controller.jpg

And the diagrams...
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/26/2f/7f/large/0900c15280262f7f.gif

I'm doing the bitch work here haha :flipoff2:

I'm impressed with your knowledge of the beloved IDI's fella's and thought I should add,When replacing the glow plugs use Motorcraft/Beru ZD9's as they are the best for these trucks. Figure to pay around $9.00 or $10.00 per plug and shop around... Ford wants more than $25.00 per plug and we all know they can be found cheaper. Stay far away from autolights or champions or the next time you will also be pulling the heads. If you need any help with the conversion let me know as I have done it to a 78 f-350 with awesome results. Good luck.

You might want to take a look at your injectors. If an O ring goes, excessive fuel will be introduced into the cylinder which will produce thick white smoke and a knocking sound as the piston is busy trying to compress the liquid fuel. O rings get wasted over time from dirty oil. Fords have a HPOP or High Pressure Oil Pump located on top of the motor that increases oil pressure and injects it into the injectors which forces down an internal piston which in turn forces the diesel fuel through the orifice, spraying into the cyl. Grit in the oil does ugly things at pressure.

For the coolant additive its either Ford DCA-4 Or use NapaKool. Don't mix the two though. Back when i owned a 91 F350 idi 7.3 i installed a precharged coolant filter so i didn't have to worry about the additive concentration. Ditto on the Beru glow plugs. I didn't know and had a set of Autolites in it. Ended up breaking one off in the precombustion chamber and had to pull the heads.

BTW lose the cdr and install a road draft tube. Real diesels use a RDT. Keeps the intake much cleaner.

You might want to take a look at your injectors. If an O ring goes, excessive fuel will be introduced into the cylinder which will produce thick white smoke and a knocking sound as the piston is busy trying to compress the liquid fuel. O rings get wasted over time from dirty oil. Fords have a HPOP or High Pressure Oil Pump located on top of the motor that increases oil pressure and injects it into the injectors which forces down an internal piston which in turn forces the diesel fuel through the orifice, spraying into the cyl. Grit in the oil does ugly things at pressure.

He's dealing with a IDI motor, not a powerstroke, no HPOP on an IDI.

Hey Ducky, Clear out some PM's in you mailbox. I attempted to reply and was denied.

Sorry man. Should be clear now. :)