I'm posting this question in hardcore hoping to get some ideas.

I have a build in non hardcore, http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9904557&posted=1#post9904557

Last night I got the rear suspension mocked up and was able to cycle it to check for clearances and ran into a couple problems.

The idea is to have 5" up travel and 9" down. After 3.5" to 4" travel the rear truss hits the rear frame cross member. That by itself is not to big a deal, I could cut it out and weld in a new one a little further back. The tub isn't a problem cause I'll be putting a 1" body lift.

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t333/Sidious6661/100_1880.jpg

The other problem is the LCA's. When flexed they hit the frame rail on the side that is stuffed after only 2.5" of uptravel.

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t333/Sidious6661/100_1878.jpg

This is definitely the bigger problem of the two. I could move the LCA brackets on the axle in enough so the LCA's would clear the frame, but that would almost double the oversteer. I could move the LCA frame brackets down, but that would leave my AS adjustable between 10% and 36% and put the IC behind the vehicle, plus take up 2" more ground clearance.

I'm thinking either notch the frame so the LCA's clear or do a half back. I'm thinking a half back would be the way to go. If I notch the frame, I still have to remove the rear frame cross member and probably notch the frame to clear the air shocks. Seams about the same amount of work either way. I am more concerned with the performance of the suspension than the packaging. I'm not afraid to cut into the body or the frame. I'm already going to have to cut the body to clear the UCA's and possibly for the shocks both front and rear.

What I'm looking for are suggestions on what to do. I like the numbers where their at. Maybe I'm missing something simple I could do.

Build specs in my thread. Flame suit on so give me your worst.

A small notch out of the frame and the crossmember makes more sense to me than back-halving the entire rig.

Try the notch, if it doesnt work...cut your rig in half :)

I ran into the same issues. I cut out the crossmember and built a new one along with modifing my fuel tank skid to mount different. For the lower arm hitting the frame, I triangulated the lowers and it solved everything.

Triangulate the lowers more and clearance as needed.

Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I was over thinking this a bit. I can fab a cross member to attach the lowers to easy enough. Guess I was right when I said maybe there was a simpler solution I was over looking. :shaking:

Happened to me as well, I cut out the crossmember and traingulated the lowers to clear the frame.

For the lower arm hitting the frame, I triangulated the lowers and it solved everything.

That's what I did as well. The lowers hitting the frame forced me to triangulate them, and I'm glad it did. I thinks it's going to be a better set up.

Do your uppers hit the tub at all at full stuff? Mine are just a bit, I'm thinking I may put a small bend in the UCA's to clear.

Cut the cross member out, or at least section it where the links hit. That will carry your gas tank unless you are putting it in the back seat area.

And it looks like you might not have enough vertical separation at either the axle or frame ends, which is leading to your current predicament with the IC being behind the vehicle.

I would have had similar issues, but my lowers are about two-three inches below the frame rails.


Good luck.

Chris

Do your uppers hit the tub at all at full stuff? Mine are just a bit, I'm thinking I may put a small bend in the UCA's to clear.

I actually cut the tub so the uppers have more clearance.

Do your uppers hit the tub at all at full stuff? Mine are just a bit, I'm thinking I may put a small bend in the UCA's to clear.

They do where the tub drops down in front of the rear seat. I knew going in that the uppers would hit the tub at that low point and was already planing on cutting to clear them. The crossmember I wasn't sure about, I knew it would be close. A small bend might be a better way to go though.


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Thats what I was planning on doing. I read through some of your threads...... along with about a thousand others.

Cut the cross member out, or at least section it where the links hit. That will carry your gas tank unless you are putting it in the back seat area.

And it looks like you might not have enough vertical separation at either the axle or frame ends, which is leading to your current predicament with the IC being behind the vehicle.

I would have had similar issues, but my lowers are about two-three inches below the frame rails.


Good luck.

Chris

The tank is going in the back for the next 10 to 12 months or so until I swap the motor and run propane.

I have almost 8" separation at the axle and 6" at the frame, should be enough. The IC is just in front of the vehicle with everything set up the way it is now. The IC would be behind if I put the LCA frame mounts directly below the frame to clear it. I'm happy with the numbers where their at now. AS adjustable from 67% to 105% with 2.5 degrees of oversteer. I damn near have a double triangulated anyway because I was able to mount the LCA's at the axle so far out. If I move those in the same amount I move the frame mounts in, I won't need to get longer tubes for my arms.

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t333/Sidious6661/100_1858.jpg