I am trying to decide where to go with my Jeep. I have done a lot of searching but would like to hear others opinions on the specific situation.

Currently I have 35”s locked D30 and D44 with 4.88s. I make it up everything I want to and do everything my friend with 37”s on a SWB TJ makes it up so I really don’t NEED bigger treads but am wanting some other things and planning ahead.

-I need better brakes.
-I want lock out hubs.
-I want to adjust my caster angle.
-I would like to be able to run some 36” or 37” bias w/ DIY beadlocks (heavy) with out fear of my drivetrain.
-I also want better flex.
-I would like the option of full hydro or hydro assist, and don’t think the D30 knuckles are up for either.


The options I see available are;
#1
-Vanco Brakes and be done with the D30 till I’m ready to build 60s or 609s. Then build it for 40”s.
Maybe go to 36”s with bead locks or stick with some 35”s for the time being and build some tons sooner than later.

#2
-Build a ford D44 front cut to Waggy width.
-Alloy shafts in the rear with spacers to get it a little wider
Be comfortable and happy running 37”s w/ bead locks for a good while. Maybe never build bigger…. :laughing:

Why I am looking at upgrading axles and bigger tires if my rig is doing everything I want it to now.
-I want to build a long arm suspension with coilovers and try to get some better flex. I would hate to do the work based around the D30 and have it crap out.
-I would like to run some bias Iroks or Maxxis Crawlers. (Only available in 36”-37”+).

Argument against 1 tons;
-I really don’t see the need for 40”s any time soon being that my 35”s are doing everything I ask.
-I like the idea of building the best rig I can on “small little 37”s” rather than a heavy beast on 40”s+.
-My wheeling style is more finesse than throttle
-I like driving daily if I so chose and for long trips.
-Would like to keep clearance.
-Already have a built 44 in the rear.

Argument against D44 front (option 2);
-Same U joints as the 30
-Only going from 1.16” 27 spline shafts to 1.25” 19 spline outters
-Limited to 37ish tires with out pushing my luck…


So what say you guys? Anyone have anything to add to either argument? Anyone see any other good options?

Flame away, but don’t tell me to search cause I’ve done a lot and already explained why I’m posting.

Honestly, I'd stay with the D30 until it :nuke:

Just get some spares and throw some Vanco's on it. You'll always be able to sell a Vanco kit used pretty quickly.

I am in the exact same situation. I agree with all of your points.
37's will be my limit. Any bigger and the areas I wheel would not be any fun (too easy).

I also have a TJ D44, ARB, 33 spline superior shafts, and disc brakes. D30 is fully trussed on the long tube with an Aussie locker. 4.88 gears.

I couldn't see spending $$ on a 44 in the front only to gain a slightly larger u-joint and lockout hubs (which I'd likely upgrade to drive flanges after popping a few; so no real gain there).

My decision was to go with 60's front and rear. Here's why:

I also want to upgrade to long arms. I'd like to stretch the wheelbase just a bit while I'm at it.

I didn't want to waste the time fitting the 30 with new bracketry when we all know Dana 30's don't like big tires, lockers, and rocks......well, mine doesn't.

There are no "small" front axles out there that can take the same level of abuse that a well built rear 44 can. NOT including a fully chromo'd D44 with CTM's and all the other aftermarket upgrades (big $$ just to built it, then you still have the install cost).

My research leads me to believe stock D60 joints will easily take the abuse of our style of wheeling on 37's; and you don't need to spend a huge amount of cash to build it. Big brakes come standard too.

Since you're changing the suspension you'd have to modify any axle to fit coilovers. Your only loss is what you have into the D30 so far (lockers, gears, etc). You'd essentially have to "re-spend" that money. Otherwise you'd essentially break even if you're going to do a major suspension buildup anyway.

One thing you have to consider is the width issue. I'm going to run H2 rims to tuck the wheels back in some. Some wider flares will take care of the rest. Wider, more stable, and all the parts are available at any auto store. Strong tubes, big joints, big hubs, heavy duty brakes and bearings, and countless options for your future steering plans.

When it comes to clearance, I'm still unsure. I'm in the "teardown phase" of my 60 project right now. I'm considering getting them shaved by a machine shop.

Clearance under a D44 on 35's is equal to a D60 on 37's. You're looking at 37's anyway..............no clearance loss to worry about.

I like the way my Jeep wheels now. Therefore, 60's on 37's should make me happy.

BUT, since I'm going through the trouble of custom building axles, why not go a bit further the first time around and gain the extra clearance? I'm still unsure which way I'm going with that. If I could weld cast steel in my garage it would be a no-brainer. I need a stick welder!

I like the idea of "cruisin" the rocks with no worries about breaking u-joints. Even if it's not hardcore wheeling, it's still hard on the vehicle. I want to have the Jeep that comes to the rescue.............not the other way around.

id say go for it.

i ran a d30 locked with 35s for a couple years and it was fun, but i got tired of having to be easy on it sometimes

i just build a waggy 44 with stock shafts. trussed, and geared/locked though. im running 5:13s with 38s, and an 8.8 rear, and im by no means easy on it at all and ive had no problems with it.

you could keep running the dana 30 if you wanted to, as i had no problems with mine though

PS. check your PMs....charlottesville here

I as shooting for the same I would love to do a 44/8.8 but for know I am working on the 8.8 and going to run the D30 till either it blows or I can get a 44 ready.

I say if your able to do the 44 you should do it, if your 30 is built you can sell it for some cash to help build the 44. Then if you want bigger tire there is no question on strength.

-I really don’t see the need for 40”s any time soon being that my 35”s are doing everything I ask.



Based on that comment I would stay with what you have. Why spend the time/money upgrading, if your Jeep is doing everything that you want it to?

FWIW

You know how/where I wheel, and I couldn't make a well build HP30 hold up to 37's.

I would say it is a waste of money to build up a 44. Wheel your 30 as long as you can, then go for tons.

The D30 has;
Yukon shafts (U joint lost a cap on the highway), Aussie locker and 4.88 Gears.
So I have like $1000 into it or so. I figure I could sell it for $750ish Opinion? I would rather not wait till:nuke:

So $750+$750 for Vanco's BBK =1500 towards a HP D44 with lock outs.

The D44 has;
ARB (which is chewed up from a bad gear install:mad3: Doing them myself from now on) and 4.88s.
So I have about $1200 into that but figure I could only get maybe $1000 out of it.

I would rather not have to do a 1 ton rear at the same time. I figure shafts and or spacers would let me match the bolt pattern to 5x5.5 in the rear.

Can I reduce a D60 (or 3/4 ton D44) down to 5x5.5? I didn't think so.

D44 U joint are the same as newer D30s. 5-297 or 5-760 correct? So no advantage there.

Because of my flat belly pan my front pinion angle sucks like 2* or more off with my caster at 4*. Because of that my front DS has devoloped a nice vib at higher speeds so I pull it when Im not wheeling (+2 mpg believe it or not). This is my DD. So thats why I really want lock outs. Also why I want to adj the caster.

We have a 79 f250 that I may be "getting" cause Im talking to my bro about getting my dad a 93 f250 as a replacement farm truck for fathers day. It has the 44 in the front but if I am going 1 ton rear I want to do the same to the front.

So if anyone knows how I can reduce the 8 lug 44 front to 5x5.5 I would really appreciate it!! (or know of a link to what it takes) Although I am considering swaping the whole drive train into my buddies YJ for strictly a wheeler.

Id like to go 609 with an aftermarket housing but looking at 4k+ for that:eek:

I plan to do all the work on the 44 myself.

If you can't tell Im leaning towards the 44. But want to make a logical decision. So please keep the comments coming.

Based on that comment I would stay with what you have. Why spend the time/money upgrading, if your Jeep is doing everything that you want it to?

Because I NEED better brakes. I would like to be able to tow my sail boat with the jeep again.
I want lock out hubs. Or I NEED to adjust the caster vs pinion angle.
I dont see the need for 40s any time soon but I can see wanting 37s

Why spend the time? Cause I have it and am about to begin working full time and will have the money to spend. And if I am going to spend another 750 on brakes for the D30 why not sell the 30 and get something that can work with 36-37s comfortably.

Also practice for doing a bigger build. Plus I dont want to build around the D30 when I could build around a 44 for close to the same cost.
Guessing cost will be around 2600 or so.


FWIW

You know how/where I wheel, and I couldn't make a well build HP30 hold up to 37's.

I would say it is a waste of money to build up a 44. Wheel your 30 as long as you can, then go for tons.

Actually no I have never seen you wheel. Only pictures:( What was braking on the 30? Not that I would really want to run 37s on the D30:eek:

When are you wheeling Crozet again? I really want to get over there.



I will post up my build thoughs on the 44 tomorrow but its including;
Shorting it
Alloy shafts
Aftermarket hubs
Locker (maybe ARB)
new brakes
New brackets
Havent decided on the knuckles or spindles yet. Just have to see what I can get ahold of. Maybe chevy with flat tops.
Estimating it will cost around $2600

Rodeo rear with disc's, waggy front, lockers of your preference, Dual diaphram booster and big master cylinder to match the brakes, 1310 ujoints. This is what I am running in my YJ. Tim

You also get a bigger ring and pinion.

Rodeo rear with disc's, waggy front, lockers of your preference, Dual diaphram booster and big master cylinder to match the brakes, 1310 ujoints. This is what I am running in my YJ. Tim
What size tires?
What size motor?
Alloy shafts in either the front or rear?
What gears?

So are 1310 U joints the same as the 5-297s or 5-760s?

You also get a bigger ring and pinion.
True as well as a stronger locker, knuckles, Inner Cs and ball joints I think. All reasons I like the idea of the 44.

1310 u-joint is the yoke on the pinion. so you dont have to do anything special driveshaft wise because they both run the same pinion joint.

i see a lot of people compare shaft and u-joint size of the 2 and say theres no advantage to building a 44.

id love to see somebody with locked 38 inch heavy ass SXs with a dana 30 follow me.

Please don't dump $750 on brakes for your dana 30 or drop anymore money into it. For that price you could buy a 60. Then sell your 30 and you just covered your 60's arb and sell the 44 and now your brackets and gears are covered. And since you wanna do coilovers any year KP60 from a Ford will work for you. So as you can tell I feel a 60 is the only way to go if your going to spend the money do it right the 1st time and with a pair of wheel spacers in the rear you can match the full width stance.

Actually no I have never seen you wheel. Only pictures:( What was braking on the 30? Not that I would really want to run 37s on the D30:eek:

When are you wheeling Crozet again? I really want to get over there.





My driving style has been described as "bumper cars with rocks" to "demolition derby", so I was hard on the 30, but it was well built. I had a HP30, Alloy USA Inners, ARB, Warn Outers, Lockout hubs, Yukon Superjoints. I broke the R&P twice, the U Joints twice, and a Warn Hub once.

I would really think about building a 60, I love not having to worry about breaking shit anymore.

I am hosting an invitational event for nonmembers on my Birthday 7/11, Let me know if you want to try it out.

Chris

Please don't dump $750 on brakes for your dana 30 or drop anymore money into it. For that price you could buy a 60. Then sell your 30 and you just covered your 60's arb and sell the 44 and now your brackets and gears are covered. And since you wanna do coilovers any year KP60 from a Ford will work for you. So as you can tell I feel a 60 is the only way to go if your going to spend the money do it right the 1st time and with a pair of wheel spacers in the rear you can match the full width stance.

What do you suggest to bring a 60 8 lug to a matching pattern in the rear for the D44 (currently 5x4.5)?

I am thinking 1 tons eventually but would rather gear them to 5.13 or 5.38. Although I guess gearing to 4.88s is good practice. Also I have been drooling over building a 609 for the front for when I go 1 ton. Which I was really hoping to have another DD for when I do that.

I was thinking about keeping this as my DD while I do a 44 front. I can get a ride to work if need be. But think I could do the swap in a 3 day weekend after building the 44.


Keep the comments coming. I debate a lot but like to hear others arguments. Especially when there backed up.

Dang Chirs, 7-11 is the weekend of a Music Festival which I already told friends I would go to... Things just never work out for me to get over there.

I already did the front 44 non-sense, don't do it!

**Seriously**

Your rear 44 is F'ing with your head!! You can find a bunch of reasons that aren't that impressive to build a front 44 (I did too), but it still sucks ass for the money that you will dump into it (even though it seems so much cheaper than 60's).

My advice (I already did this like I said), go to 60's and be DONE.

I had a 8.8/30 combo, decided I really LOVED my 8.8, so I weaked out, built a HP44 (shortened it), and slung it under my Jeep. Well, it just isn't as cheap as you think! :D Steering, new hubs, wheel adapters for the rear, locker, gears, seals, etc, etc.. it all adds up. Then, after you spend all that, you start saying... "man, wish the stance was wider, wish I hadn't spent so much money, wish I had just sucked it up and went to 60's".

Con's to the 44:
- still pricey
- the PINION is the same size as a D30
- u-joints are the same
- .. really,. it's not that much stronger.

Pro's:
- tubes are bigger
- hubs (nice for highway)
- bigger ring gear
- better brakes (I consider this the ONLY worthy reason to do the upgrade)

The 44 still sucks ass though for the money you will drop into it.

Run the 44/30 combo or upgrade to 1-tons. **I'm super serial** :D

go to 60's and be done.

Dang Chirs, 7-11 is the weekend of a Music Festival which I already told friends I would go to... Things just never work out for me to get over there.

I'm off most every Monday, pick one and I'll wheel with you. We can cover the entire place in half a day with a couple of rigs.

Well you all are starting to beat it into my head.

So Knoxville, Whats the clearance between your diff and the ground with the 60s and 37"s. Is that aired up or down (just so I have something to compare to). OR anyone else know the "depth" (center line to bottom of diff) of a 60?

I may just get the Vanco kit and keep the 30 and 35s for a little longer. Then build the big boys.

Thoughts on heavy 35"s and DIY beadlocks playing nicely with the D30? or :nuke:?

Humm, Shaved 60 rear, 609 up front. Just to be difficult of course:D

Chris, Possibly the 22nd I may be able to take off I will let you know.

I'm running a 60 in the rear with a mild shave (removed the lip), and it hangs down about 5 5/8" from the axle centerline to the bottom of the diff.

Some other relevant measurements I took when doing my builds (axle centerline to the bottom of the diff):

Dana 30 = 4 5/8"
Ford 8.8 = 5 5/8"
Dana 60 = 5 7/8" (without mild shave)

So clearance-wise in the rear, I was almost the same as with the Ford 8.8. Up front, I lost a lost about 1" of clearance going from a 30 to a 60. BUT, it matches my clearance in the rear, so it really isn't that big of a deal.

One other major point I forgot to mention, with a 44/44 combo, you would be MAXED out on upgrades and tire size (37's being your realistic limit). I'm running the 60/60 combo with 37's (smallest tire you can really run with a 60!) and the axles shafts and u-joints are all stock in the front 60 (35 spline in the rear), so unlimited upgrade potential, could run 42's reliably someday if I wanted. Just something to consider for your build.

Oh, and I can lock the tires up without trying!! 3/4 ton disc brakes all around + Mercury Marquis MC = MAJOR STOPPAGE POWER.

Knoxville is right. I am in the middle of sinking major cheese into a 44 front. I am not going to wheel too seriously and probably won't go bigger than 35's, definitely not 37's. For the amount of work/ cost to build a 44 compared to the actual upgrades in strength, 60's are far more of a value. You should be very sure of what it is you want out of an axle swap before you begin, so take your time and make the right choice.

If you really know what you are looking for, and are really sure it is a 44, then go with it. I have reasons for building a 44 over a 60. I am looking at asthetics, slightly lower cost, unsprung weight, etc. Most of the people on pirate are not into asthetics or motor vehicle code. Wheels outside the fenders, etc, are not a consideration for trail performance, which I totally get, it's just not for me.

FYI I put a Highline kit on my Unlimited. So most here would say that I have more money than sense, which I would also agree with. I guess what I am getting at is 44 is a niche market item, an axle for someone that would like moderate upgrades and is not as concerned with value as getting an exact level of upgrade if that makes sense.

A 60 is absolutely the best value for the build, and for someone who has a big build in their future perhaps, and likes to tackle a more intense trail.

It would be like buying jeans (44) for work pants instead of double front carharts (60). Maybe you like to sniff flowers and need the extra flexibility of the jeans, and the 60's are to stiff and manly for bending over alot. While the carharts tackle any job in the yard and will last alot longer, you are just too much of a lady to handle it's burly beefiness. I got my jeans in pink, fyi.

I've been 'wheeling hard with a D30 and 37s with PSC beadlocks for almost three years now. It has pretty much everything you can do to one, including chromo inner and outer shafts, super joints, Detroit, and a Warn hub conversion. To date I have broken:

1 R&P
twisted one shaft (same incident that broke the R&P)
1 stub shaft recently
several hubs

That's it, and really I was being absolutely unkind to it at the time I broke the R&P. My rig is pretty light (3500 with me in it) and I think that's most of the reason it has survived. I purposely built it for the hubs to be the weak link, because I'll change hubs all day long rather than axles or R&Ps. My point is that you can make a 30 survive, and replacement parts really aren't all that expensive, expecially if you get ones with a lifetime warranty.:) Do the initial upgrades cost money? Sure, but you're probably looking at less total cost involved to upgrade rather than building a custom 44.

Everyone has pointed out the negligible advantages to a 44, which include a bigger R&P, thicker tubes, slightly slightly bigger axles, and 30-spline inners. If it's surviving now and I were in your shoes, I'd leave it alone until you're ready to make the jump to 60s. As for your brake problem, I would make sure what you have is in good working order. My system is completely stock and works fine, and though I've never towed anything with it, I wouldn't hesitate as long as it was lightweight. And a silly question, but how hard would it be to put brakes on the boat trailer? Seems like that would be cheaper than going the 44 route, as that seems to be a big reason for the upgrade for you.

Regardles of how you go, good luck!

37"s on my 30 would not last. My rigs pretty heavy. Probably have 500+ lbs of armor, +100 lbs of tools and spares, not to mention tires and added suspension weigh. I'm thinking DIY beadlocks and some 35" LTBs for my next set of treads, then take some time to build some 60s once I have another DD.

A 60 seams like the way to go. The 44 just seamed like the quickest way to get bigger brakes and lockouts without investing any more in the D30.

Trailer brakes may be an option but if I was investing the $ I would rather have it upgrade my vehicle brakes since I only tow the boat a few times a year, then leave it at the marina or my lawn.

What I really need is another DD that can tow the boat and the Jeep...

Getting off topic, but whats wrong with a highline? That was in my plans when I do a swap to keep a lower stance.

I'm nearly done building a hp44. My advise?

Do yourself a favor and go straight to the 60.

I just went through this. One thing, DD or not?

I wanted about 83" total width. The only way I could figure WITHOUT narrowing was H1 wheels, but the hubs would stick out.

Paying someone for narrowing and custom shafts put 60s out of my budget for a while. I do also drive my LJ regularly (by choice) I have a tow rig.

I ran 37" SSRs on my 30 and now on the 44.

Yes I will do 60s one day, but the 44 should suit me for 2-4 more years.

Then I will build a one ton buggy

I do plan to DD this some. Im not too concerned about the width but would like to keep the occifers happy, shouldn't be to hard in VA/NC areas.

I have pretty much made the decision to build a 60. My thoughts and questions on narrowing it slightly can been seen in my new thread. Dana 60 Offset Dimensions (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=795082) Yeah its a whole new thread but different topic.

If you want to keep polishing your well-polished turd :laughing: you could check out the Reid Racing Dana 30 --> 44 conversion knuckles (http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php), which would give you lockout hubs, bigger brakes, and get rid of the unit bearings.

If you want to keep polishing your well-polished turd :laughing: you could check out the Reid Racing Dana 30 --> 44 conversion knuckles (http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php), which would give you lockout hubs, bigger brakes, and get rid of the unit bearings.

Yup considered those already. I got all the way to multiplying $260 by 2 and stopped... For that price I would could have a D44, brackets and beer money:D. I really think a 60 is the way to go if I dont build a 44. Seaming more likely now that I have lead on a pickup.

I'm nearly done building a hp44. My advise?

Do yourself a favor and go straight to the 60.

Exactly.. why waste all your money on a 44.
If you're gonna upgrade, do it right the first time.

Exactly.. why waste all your money on a 44.
If you're gonna upgrade, do it right the first time.

I'd agree. It's kind of a sh&t or get off the pot kinda deal...A D30 survives on my rig, for now, with my driving style and what I do. It was also expensive to do what I did, but I wanted the rig lightweight and have the ground clearance advantages, and was willing to leave a lot of the spare / tools / cooler / etc behind to accomplish it. Sounds like you're leaning the D60 way, which is fine, but now that you've done the front, you're only halfway there...what to do with the rear? 8.8s and rear 44s are great for what they are, but now you're in a situation where the front is 5x stronger than the back, so what have you really gained? Bigger brakes (which will require a different master cylinder, more $), bulletproof frontend, but now you will question the rear. It's easy to say "go 'tons and done" which is fine but the reality is that there is A LOT more work and cash than just the purchase price of the axle. I'm understand 60s and their advantages, but since budget is involved, and its your daily driver, I just caution you to be realistic on total cost involved. Regardless, I wouldn't sink money into a 44 in your situation.

My 0.02, which is what you asked for. Good luck regardless of how you go.

Good points talking head.

I have a lead on an 88 F350 for $500. 351 Motor might run, says he rebuilt it most the way but hasn't fired it due to headers or something. So that gives me a 60 front and Sterling 10.25 rear. Either way a rear 60 is pretty cheap comparatively.

I did some cost estimates on the front axle (links, brackets, coilover$, ARB gears, rebuild kit, and one new passenger side shaft (Forgot the Mater cylinder and brake lines ect) and came out to about $3300:eek: But after I sell off stuff I am replacing and the rest of the f350 I figure I can get that down to about $2200.

So for now I am planing on keeping the D30 since I probably have 10k miles left on these tires. During that time I plan to pick up a 60 front and build it and figure out what I want to do for a rear. Probably also a 60. I also hope to find a cheap DD to use while the swap is under way.

So for now I am planing on keeping the D30 since I probably have 10k miles left on these tires. During that time I plan to pick up a 60 front and build it and figure out what I want to do for a rear. Probably also a 60. I also hope to find a cheap DD to use while the swap is under way.

Don't run a 60 in the rear, it's wayyyyyyy too much work. To do it right, you will need to bore the spindles to run 35 spline shafts. This is a complete PITA if you don't have a machine shop that can bore the spindles while they are still attached/welded to the housing.

That said, look for a D70-U. 35-spline shafts stock with a smooth bottom. I would have definitely got a D70-U if I had to do it all over again, no question about it.

What about the Sterling 10.25"? I though I read it was comparable to a D70 but havent seen very many builds with it. Is the diff much bigger than a D60? Only bad thing I have seen was the price of lockers. But if its coming in the F350 I buy I figure I may as well use it.

Sell the 10.25 and get a newer 14bolt with disc brakes.
Shave the 14bolt and be done.

Sell the 10.25 and get a newer 14bolt with disc brakes.
Shave the 14bolt and be done.

Why? Got any reasons to support your advice? Not that Im disagreeing, I would just like to know why your saying that.

Why? Got any reasons to support your advice? Not that Im disagreeing, I would just like to know why your saying that.

Disc brakes, aftermarket support, and I think axleshaft strength.....................

Disc brakes, aftermarket support, and I think axleshaft strength.....................

And a MUCH easier to shave housing design.

Plus dirt cheap, tough as hell, & easy to find parts for (including HD diff covers)

Main drawback being less than fantastic gearing availability

I'm a D44 guy

I've run many 44's & have always talked myself out of the upgrade to 60's, I just keep on polishing.

& there is no doubt you end up spending a pile of money on a 44 to make it approx as strong as a stock 60 & then you have an axle with no upgrade room. It simply is what it is.

However, that does not mean it won't work for some.


I try to build my rigs with a very specific balance, to me there is such a thing as strength over whelming capability.

Plus I run between 36-38" tires & have no desire to go any bigger (I know that will cause some laughter, but I've run 39.5's - 44's in the past & went right back to the 38.5's becuase they seemed to be the best fit for my rig & wheeling style)

The highly polished turd simply works for me & is no more expensive than my version of what I would expect out of a well setup 60, the assoc'd larger rubbers, & other details that would come with it.
(no reason to have a one ton axle without 42-ish" tires IMHO, then there I am right back at the same strength to tire size balance that I was with smaller cheaper rubber & the D44)

I would not say I've never broken my polished 44, but I do break rarely (& I'm far from easy on it), I usually break stubs which are easy & cheap to fix, & I've only got Yukon 4340 shafts in it which are the Cadillac Cimmaron of the Chromo shaft world. I hope to reduce even that rare breakage with higher quality, tuned shafts from Ten factory or Etc.....

ive gotta 87 YJ d30/35 4.88's locked 258 and PEUGOT!! soa stretched with 39.5 BOGGERS!!!

my driving style is gapped back at MACH JESUS and have never broke ANYTHING with my setup so unless your breaking shit left and right dont change it!!!

I just love being behind guys running 39.5 on a 35 on the trail. :)

ive gotta 87 YJ d30/35 4.88's locked 258 and PEUGOT!! soa stretched with 39.5 BOGGERS!!!

my driving style is gapped back at MACH JESUS and have never broke ANYTHING with my setup so unless your breaking shit left and right dont change it!!!

:homer:...