I know this board is for the hardcore :flipoff2: but I have received great info here in the past. I have posted over at binder bulletin and binder planet but no luck yet in ansering my question.

Here goes, I have a 74 scout w/ t-18 tranny and replaced the engine, clutch, T/O bearing and a bunch of other shit about 6 months ago. Now it seems that the T/O bearing is growling **sometimes** when shifting at lower rpm's. The T/O bearing is not riding the clutch fingers. Shitty parts to say the least. I thought Timkens were supposed to be good??? Anyway, I have no desire to pull the fucking tranny out again, pain in the ass!!! I found this on another site. Anyone ever done this or something similar? If so thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!!!


OK, got this from another site:



Throw-out bearings. Several years ago, these bearings began being manufactured with some cheap thin grease. They still are today. This gets like oil in a hurry because of the clutch heat. Consequently, the lubrication is thrown out of the bearing as it rotates in engagement. Maybe it was done this way to put some grease on our new clutches! Most throw-out bearings are merely out of grease. I drill a 1/8" hole on the outside edge of the bearing (not on the engagement surface). This is pretty hard and requires a quality drill bit. I use a needle type u-joint grease adapter on my grease gun and give it TWO (not 3) shots of chassis grease. Rotate the bearing halfway around after the first pump to disperse the grease. I use a very short sheet metal screw and some red lock tite to seal the hole. In one of my cars, I was able to get nearly 200,000 miles on the same throw-out bearing using this method.



Will doing this drill into the bearing surface itself??? Does anyone have a schematic of a Timken 2005C bearing??? Thanks again!!!!

The throw out collar on my 1980 t19 had a zerk in it and a channel to the throw out bearing from the factory. I think I might have had to drill a hole in the new bearing and make sure it lined up with the collar hole. I might just be remembering wrong about having to drill a hole. Have you checked for a zerk?

IIRC some guys on the BB said the greasbles wear out fast but the non-servicables last forever. Mine seems to be fine with 4k or so miles on it.

The collar is non greasable, no zerk or hole for one. Damn!!! This pisses me off. What about the "surgery" presented in the quote I got from another site? Any chance of being able to drill a small hole into the outer outside edge of the T/O bearing and fill with grease and plug with a small sheet metal screw or pipe plug without damaging or hitting (the screw or plug) the bearing surface???

If you drill it , why not put a zerk in ?

I tried that once and found the hardoned metal was tough enough to ruin a new drill bit...

I made my non-greasable throw-out collar into a greasable collar.... but is has to be done off the trans.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8867541&postcount=115

Thanks! For anyone interested this is what I ended up doing. I did drill a pilot hole into the side of the T/O bearing, went a lot smoother than I expected, slightly tapped a 1/4-28 zerk (actually had enough room to do this both inside the bell housing and the space within the T/O bearing. Made sure no metal flakes got into the T/O bearing and loctited the zerk into the T/O bearing. Spun the bearing to make sure nothing was hitting (bottom of zerk to T/O bearing surface - nothing hitting - good to go!!). Waited for the loctite to dry and gave the bearing two squirts with high pressure /temp bearing lube. Works like a charm!!!!!! No more noise. Checked the bearing the next day to see if any grease had exited the rear (bearing is not sealed and has an overlap towards the back (tranny side) where originally some grease had pushed out). Small amount had come out, nothing on PP or disk, wiped excess and bolted it back up. Nothing tried nothing gained!!!!

Thanks! For anyone interested this is what I ended up doing. I did drill a pilot hole into the side of the T/O bearing, went a lot smoother than I expected, slightly tapped a 1/4-28 zerk (actually had enough room to do this both inside the bell housing and the space within the T/O bearing. Made sure no metal flakes got into the T/O bearing and loctited the zerk into the T/O bearing. Spun the bearing to make sure nothing was hitting (bottom of zerk to T/O bearing surface - nothing hitting - good to go!!). Waited for the loctite to dry and gave the bearing two squirts with high pressure /temp bearing lube. Works like a charm!!!!!! No more noise. Checked the bearing the next day to see if any grease had exited the rear (bearing is not sealed and has an overlap towards the back (tranny side) where originally some grease had pushed out). Small amount had come out, nothing on PP or disk, wiped excess and bolted it back up. Nothing tried nothing gained!!!!

I am gonna have to try this. Mine has had an annoying ass squeak when engaged since it was new.

Congrats on getting it fixed, I'm surprised you were able to add a zerk fiting to the side of the bearing. Good to know. How about some pics?