I ended up with about 1500 cast lead bullets, should I steer clear of these reloading for my 40 and 9mm?

are they glocks?

the 40 is a glock, the 9's are S&W & XD

Use them, just clean when done
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Use them, just clean when done
yep, the lead just fouls the barrel more.
When using lead reloads just shoot some FMJ through it to clean the bore up every few hundred rounds.

Careful with the lead in Glocks. Keep the speed down, and if it's good (hardcast) lead, it's okay. If it's really soft stuff... er... careful.

Guns with polygonal rifling (Glock and HK) don't like lead too much.

The Sig and XD are good to go. Just be aware you're not supposed to shoot lead at most indoor ranges.

Careful with the lead in Glocks. Keep the speed down, and if it's good (hardcast) lead, it's okay. If it's really soft stuff... er... careful.


That is the case with any other pistol also.
If you push lead too fast, or use a powder that melts the base you will get lots of fouling.

If you push them at too high of a velocity, the rifling will shear off lead and essentially leave you with a smooth bore. The pressure will go way up, and the gun will start acting up.

If you use the wrong powder, the heat from the charge will melt the base and cause lots of fouling.

The softer the bullet, the slower you have to run them. I have shot thousands of rounds of lead bullets through a Taurus 9mm. One batch was too hot and it fouled the barrel. I ended up spending a few evenings with dental picks cleaning the riflings. At first glance I thought I had eroded the riflings, then realized they were packed full of lead and it was smooth bored about 2" up the barrel.

Use load data specifically for lead bullets, and don't push them beyond the book loads. There are plenty of "hard cast" bullets that will shoot fine in most guns.

One way to reduce the leading from the powder charge is to use a card board disk between the powder charge and base of the bullet. If your load data calls for this, don't ignore it.

I shoot lead exclusively in SASS, but my guns were designed for lead (rifle has ballard cut rifling, opposed to cut rifling). They are more smoothed and "lapped" at the edges so they don't cut lead off the bullet as it goes up the barrel.

The summary is use lead bullets using lead bullet load data designed for that hardness of bullet (brinell hardness)

Almost forgot: Try 3.6gr of Power Pistol under one if you're loading for 9mm. It shoots beautifully.

















:flipoff2:

<<This is an inside joke. No one should actually waste ammo by doing it>>

Almost forgot: Try 3.6gr of Power Pistol under one if you're loading for 9mm. It shoots beautifully.

















:flipoff2:

<<This is an inside joke. No one should actually waste ammo by doing it>>

I am gonna back it off to 3.2 so I don't melt the base of the bullet:flipoff2:

not to get into a big debate but the bullet bases don't melt.think of it this way,if you hold your finger over a flame it will burn but if you pass it threw real fast nada.there is a book written by veral smith that every handloader should have.his web address is lead bullet tech. i believe.he has a thread over on greybeard.com.