how safe/functional would it be to take a stock radius arm, and lop off the lower piece that wraps around to the bottom of the axle? therefor leaving your other arm to keep the caster/DS angle, but then also allow the suspension to twist up a lot more? truck is not a daily driver and is trailered to events, but has to be driven from base camp to the trails and into town for supplies, etc.

what do you think?

Don't even go there IMHO.

Use a wristed for that purpose.

j

I am not sure about completely cutting it off but I moved mine to under the axle instead of in front of the axle and it helped a lot in twisting but it takes a lot of fabbing work to do and honestly I am going three link next time around. It's really not that hard to make your own three link and with all the info on this board it's even easier.

-ben

Well I got bored one day and disconnected the front bolt on one of my arms and played around in the back yard. The increase in flex was AMAZING. I have toyed with the idea as whell of cutting the front piece off. I decided I didn't really like this idea in the long run. I have also considered doing what m016324 did and moving it, but after looking at the time involved and the fab work it is almost easier to get a 3-link.

thanks unissamog, i will try removing the bolt first :D

just make sure you put you bolt back in when you are done playing with it ... Check the archive for benefits of drilling out front radius arm bushings for more front flexxxxxxx..

Actually as part of my toying around with the front end I left the bolt out for about a week, and I didin't notice any difference in the driving of the vehicle every day to work. The 1st couple days I went slower than normal, and had the bolt and tools needed to put it back in if I needed to.

It rolled a bit more in the corners ('87 with no swaybars) bu I wouldn't mind driving it like that.

Of course only disconnecting one side only give you added flex when the unbolted side is in droop, the arm still binds when stuffed.

here are some pics.....

http://fareast4x4.com/unbolt1.JPG
http://fareast4x4.com/unbolt2.JPG

This truck has a 3" bearmach lift, OME castor correcting bushings (which KILL front articulation) and 31x10.5 tires.

To do it right, I would first recommend getting a "euro" knuckle (the ones with a drivers side drag link hook up, up front). And then doing a four link.

A three link would still be killer. I would also move the front axle forward a bit also. Like 1.5-2".

The majority of the work you are looking at are in the arms and not the axle brackets. Stripping the axle should be very easy. Your friend can weld right? You are not planning to learn welding on a suspension arm are you?

Way