So this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=215517

says in the instructions that it should not be used on rimfire ammo, and that it will not work with factory loaded ammo where a bullet sealant has been used.

So if you want to disassemble factory ammo, how do you?

shoot it.....why do you want to take it apart?

get a collet type puller.

Mounts in a press. I have the Hornady cam lock and it works great

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=851547

So this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=215517

says in the instructions that it should not be used on rimfire ammo, and that it will not work with factory loaded ammo where a bullet sealant has been used.

So if you want to disassemble factory ammo, how do you?

I can understand why one cant use an inertia puller on rimfire (AKA .22LR type stuff) as it might touch off the round with the way it works... ;)

RCBS or one of the other outfits makes a slug puller that works sorta like a gear puller and yanks the slug out. The catch is the slug is NFG afterward because the puller grips the slug as it pulls and does a knurl job on the surface...

D.

shoot it

Figured that was coming :laughing: but I can't do that at work or in my backyard without causing trouble that I don't want.

why do you want to take it apart?

Wanted to pull a few bullets, dump the powder, pop/remove the primers, and put some function-check dummy rounds back together. Guess the best way to do this is to buy a box of bullets (if I can find them :laughing: ) and load a few into some of my collection of already-been-fired brass.

Wanted to pull a few bullets, dump the powder, pop/remove the primers, and put some function-check dummy rounds back together. Guess the best way to do this is to buy a box of bullets (if I can find them :laughing: ) and load a few into some of my collection of already-been-fired brass.

Happen to have a couple rounds like that I use for setting my .45-70 seater die. Because I'm partial to having no jump distance twixt the slug and the rifling and because I have 2 different length slugs I use (405 and 520) I use the "reference" cases to set the initial seat depth... ;)

D.

what rounds do you want dummies for?

You can use them for factory ammo, you just have to whack it a few more times. Big nono on the rimfire, though.

what rounds do you want dummies for?

This particular exercise was to make some 9mm dummies, figured if I wasted a few of those, not that big a deal, and eventually I'd figure it out and do .223 and 7.62x39 as well.

You can use them for factory ammo, you just have to whack it a few more times. Big nono on the rimfire, though.

I have a dent in the board I'm whacking it against (good thing I didn't post that in ChitChat :eek: :laughing: ), and I seem to be making zero progress. Maybe I need to whack it harder too? :confused:

I have a dent in the board I'm whacking it against (good thing I didn't post that in ChitChat :eek: :laughing: ), and I seem to be making zero progress. Maybe I need to whack it harder too? :confused:

Wolf seems to the hardest crimped ammo in the world and I've managed to get some apart but I probably whacked it ten times using the RCBS version of the same thing.

Wolf seems to the hardest crimped ammo in the world and I've managed to get some apart but I probably whacked it ten times using the RCBS version of the same thing.

On your advice, I whacked it harder and longer, and it worked. Thanks! :laughing:

On your advice, I whacked it harder and longer, and it worked. Thanks! :laughing:

My lord, if that isn't sig material I don't know what is...:lmao:

I also whack mine on the top of my reloading bench which is 1/4" plate topped with 1 3/4" maple butcher block. It's pretty hard when I whack it.

I also whack mine on the top of my reloading bench which is 1/4" plate topped with 1 3/4" maple butcher block. It's pretty hard when I whack it.

I always use the concrete floor of the basement. Generally only takes two or three. A couple more for factory stuff the last time I took any apart.

Concrete will break the puller as will steel. Wood is best.

Concrete will break the puller as will steel. Wood is best.

This was my fear; the instructions said to hit it on wood, and not to hit it on concrete or steel, and I was hitting it hard enough that I thought I was going to break it against the scrap 2x4 that I was using. Not sure if I cracked it, but it seems to be OK.

I did notice that in my (overzealous?) whacking, I usually ended up taking one more swing after the bullet dislodged, which is when I heard the bullet rattle around in the puller, about the same time as some noticeable amount of powder went airborne through the gaps in the little three-jaw collet thing that they use to hold the case. If one were saving the powder, or concerned with the safety of having powder scattered randomly around one's workspace, an enclosed tail cap or some kind of little rubber/plastic/metal cover, would be a good addition.

I spill more powder than I get in the cases. :D

Concrete will break the puller as will steel. Wood is best.

Hasn't for the past 8ish years.

I have been worried about breaking the darn puller too! Seems like it gets whacked pretty hard. I tried it on some Wolf (7.62x39) with the red sealant. Quickly gave up...

Hasn't for the past 8ish years.

I whack it hard.

I have a dent in the board I'm whacking it against Maybe I need to whack it harder too? :confused:

On your advice, I whacked it harder and longer, and it worked. Thanks! :laughing:

I also whack mine on the top of my reloading bench It's pretty hard when I whack it.

Seems like it gets whacked pretty hard.

I whack it hard.

I thought I just stumbled into the trailer park! :eek:




















:flipoff2:

Usually what breaks is the threaded cap.

Pops had an old orange one, same name on it as the RCBS green, and the cap fit the Midway blue that busted (maybe made by same company?).

Probably a decent idea to get a spare cap before yours shatters.