http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCF3495.jpg
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCF3497.jpg


Here is my new 1999 jeep wrangler sahara. I am wondering what size lift i should go and what brand is the best for the price? I have been looking at the Rubicon Express 3.5" superflex lift but it is a bit expensive. With a 3" to 4"
lift(haven't made up my mind yet) i want to go with 33" tires but what size rims should i get, 15" rims? with that size lift i am thinking i am going to have to put in a slip-yoke but with the slip-yoke do i also need a CV drive shaft. (dumb question but what is a CV driveshaft exactly?)

I would like your opinions...thanks.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0014.jpg

Does anyone know what this little red light in the middle of the pic is? while driving it clicks like a blinker at random times and it shines red when turn on.

Shift indicator light?

Go with 15" rims if you are going to run 33's.

As far a the lift, you get what you pay for. RE is about the best out there and their price reflects that.

Ask yourself what you want to do with you Jeep as far as trails....rocks? mud? Sand?

You do not need a CV driveline with 3-4 inches of lift. A CV driveline is a double-cardan style driveshaft. It has two U-joints at one end, and one at the other vs. one at each end on a typical driveline. The advantage is the ability to run steeper driveline angles.

it could be the shift indicator light but that would be weird on an automatic.
thanks.

it could be the shift indicator light but that would be weird on an automatic.
thanks.

Your right. That would be weird. But then, we are dealing with Chrysler :smokin:

You do not need a CV driveline with 3-4 inches of lift.

Not necessarily true. All Jeeps are different when it comes to needing the SYE...

I would guess the light is a an alarm look under the hood for a alarm horn. I agree with the RE lifts are about the best for the money also Clayton are good lifts but there kinda pricey. How ever big you decide to go I would go with a long arm kit for sure.

if i was you, i would just get some 2.5" springs and shocks, and do a 1" body and motor mount lift. i believe that would be the most effective thing to run 33s and you will not need a transfercase lowering kit or a sye/ cv drive shaft.

just my 2 cents

If you ever think you'll want to put larger rotors/calipers on, go with 16" wheels.
For lift, it depends on the money you want to spend. Do a 1" MML and 1" BL, high line your fenders and run 33's while keeping your cog low and your ride smooth. Throw in a set of sway bar discos, tummy tuck, engine, diff and lca skids and go have fun.

I would guess the light is a an alarm look under the hood for a alarm horn. I agree with the RE lifts are about the best for the money also Clayton are good lifts but there kinda pricey. How ever big you decide to go I would go with a long arm kit for sure.
what is so speacial about the long arm kits except the extra $1500 on the price?

I would guess the light is a an alarm look under the hood for a alarm horn. I agree with the RE lifts are about the best for the money also Clayton are good lifts but there kinda pricey. How ever big you decide to go I would go with a long arm kit for sure.
what is so speacial about he long arm kits except the extra $1500 on the price?

Also my check engine light came on (OBD2 code PO123, something with the gas pedal sensor?) and that red light came on at the same time and started to clicking more than usuall so i think there is a tie between the ckeck engine light and the red light? Anyone know?

what is so speacial about he long arm kits except the extra $1500 on the price?

Also my check engine light came on (OBD2 code PO123, something with the gas pedal sensor?) and that red light came on at the same time and started to clicking more than usuall so i think there is a tie between the ckeck engine light and the red light? Anyone know?

You've got a lot of reading to do. Basically long arm kits offer a lot better handling and stability on vehicles off road as well as better flex and you won't get the shrinking wheelbase effect as much with a long arm kit versus a short arm suspension. Short arm kits just leave too much to be desired for someone doing serious off roading.

Depending on how competent you are with tools and a welder, you have a wide variety of options for suspensions to choose from. My bet would be on a Clayton kit if you can weld. If not, RE makes a great kit as well as Teraflex.

As far as the code, if you've gotten the interior wet anywhere around the steering column it could have damaged your clockspring which shares a common ground with the TPS which is one of the common reasons for the code P0123. An easy way to make sure it's not the clockspring is to disconnect the horn/airbag/cruise control wires from the steering column. If you still get the code it could be a bad TPS sensor.

I would guess that the red light is for some type of alarm that may have be installed on your Jeep that you're not aware of. Have you tried tracing the wires that run to that light back to where they start from? That would be the easiest way to figure it out.

hey man.. not sure where youre located in CA but i have the exact same rig but a 97... ill give you my old suspension setup if you want it, rubi springs, n spring spacers, and a coupel other things.. pick up a 1 in body and your set for 33s, hell ill throw in my old discos cheap if you want a nice/cheap setup and could probably help ya throw it in..it wheeled awesome and will help you get a good grasp on what you want long term... i just upgraded to an RE superflex 3.5 with adj control arms and f/r track bars..if you want a couple pics of how you rig would be with it just drop me a PM,

I guess the first question is what are you going to do with this Jeep? Daily drive it?, wheel / road drive it?, make a off road only beast out of it? If you just want the Jeep to be lifted with no desire to off road it, there are a lot of cheap ways of doing this. If you want to off road it and street drive it, don't go with a cheap lift as you won't be happy. Short arm kit, Rubicon Super flex all the way in my opinion. Get the 4.5 inch kit with all the goodies, BUT request the 3.5 inch springs (better on road). The Clayton Long Arm kits are what you need if you want to go long arm. Requires welding and is harder to install. The SYE is a maybe.... usually, you can do a transfer case drop and not have any issues, but each Jeep is a little different. If you have vibes, there maybe cheap (non SYE) ways around them.

I noticed that your Jeep (sweet Jeep BTW) has the Caynon wheels..... it was a common package offered by Jeep to pair the Caynon wheels with the Dana 44 rear axle. Not all Jeeps with Caynon wheels will have the D44 and not all Jeeps with the D44 will have Caynon wheels. Take a pic of your rear axle diff cover and post it up, or just look at it to see if the fill plug is a large (silver dollar size) rubber disk, or a small (about thumb size) metal screw in plug. If you have the D44, it could save you some $$ down the road.

If you are going to wheel this Jeep, get some rock rails like these http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/image.php?type=P&id=16147

http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16147&cat=249&page=1

Then add an engine/transmission skid (one skid), a CB, tow points front & rear... then hunt up a local 4x4 Club and go wheel / learn all you can before you go spending a lot of cash :)

I agree that a long arm kit offers more stability for sure, but disagree that is provides more flex or articulation. My 97 TJ has a RE 4.5" short arm superflex kit and I realize an RTI ramp really means nothing, but I ramped against a 98 TJ with a RE 4.5" Long Arm. Our scores were equal. We Both had comparable setups (ie wheels, tires, tire pressure, front swaybars disconnected).

I agree that a long arm kit offers more stability for sure, but disagree that is provides more flex or articulation. My 97 TJ has a RE 4.5" short arm superflex kit and I realize an RTI ramp really means nothing, but I ramped against a 98 TJ with a RE 4.5" Long Arm. Our scores were equal. We Both had comparable setups (ie wheels, tires, tire pressure, front swaybars disconnected).

I knew someone was gonna disagree with me on that one. But I didn't say more flex, I said better flex. I agree that you can obtain as much flex as a long arm kit with a short arm kit, but with a short arm kit, when completely flexed out, your wheel base will shrink considerably, and the suspension will feel less nuetral than a long arm kit would when you get on the gas due to the jacking effects from the less than ideal link geometry of short arms on a lifted vehicle.

The Light is more than likly a car alarm indicator light. The placement of the light is not factory, it was installed after market.

Pull the two screws out of the piece below where that the light is mounted,or crawl under the dash, Trace the wire back to where it is tied in, Most likly it is tied to a box under the dash or siren looking thing.

If you no longer have the key remote, the alarm is useless. You might as well remove it. It could be causing the check light if it is shunting out a switch to the gas pedal. Maybe someones idea to stop someone from stealing it. You will have to be sure to splice any wires that have been cut into. If you find it post a picture of the box any I will tell you how to remove it.

I have a jeep that I just removed the alarm, due to it killing the starter, It also was installed when I got and there was no remotes when I got it.

I dont believe 99 TJ's had the dana 44 option..I had a 99 sahara with the canyon rims and only got the dana 35 :( then again, my brother has a 97 sport and has a factory dana 44 rear...he never really noticed and was saving up to buy a rear 44...I took a look at the rear axle one day and told him it wasnt the dana 35...he was quite happy.

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate your opinions.

Check engine light went off by itself so should i even worry anymore?

what is so speacial about he long arm kits except the extra $1500 on the price?

Also my check engine light came on (OBD2 code PO123, something with the gas pedal sensor?) and that red light came on at the same time and started to clicking more than usuall so i think there is a tie between the ckeck engine light and the red light? Anyone know?

You get more flex with less effort and strain with a LA kit, yes you can still get a lot of flex with a short are kit no doubt but you get better flex with LA kits.

You get better caster which helps with steering and handling.

It can give you better drive line angles.

Most vehicles we do LA kits on my customers tell me it handles better then stock and I agree in most cases.

Short arm kits are fine but IMO if you want to go over 4"s I would do a LA kit.

I would not worry about the light unless it keeps turning on or stays on.

I dont believe 99 TJ's had the dana 44 option..I had a 99 sahara with the canyon rims and only got the dana 35 :( then again, my brother has a 97 sport and has a factory dana 44 rear...he never really noticed and was saving up to buy a rear 44...I took a look at the rear axle one day and told him it wasnt the dana 35...he was quite happy.

The D44 was an option on the 1999 TJ including the Sahara models. If the current owner will order a build sheet (free), he will find out if Caynon wheels came from factory, or if they were added along the way.

The D44 was an option on the 1999 TJ including the Sahara models. If the current owner will order a build sheet (free), he will find out if Caynon wheels came from factory, or if they were added along the way.

Build Sheet Link (http://www-5.jeep.com/wccsapp/universal/J/index.jsp?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Jeep&familyStr=brand&franchise=J&actionURL=/wccs/brand_forms/us/webform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U)

Just fill it out

hey man.. not sure where youre located in CA but i have the exact same rig but a 97... ill give you my old suspension setup if you want it, rubi springs, n spring spacers, and a coupel other things.. pick up a 1 in body and your set for 33s, hell ill throw in my old discos cheap if you want a nice/cheap setup and could probably help ya throw it in..it wheeled awesome and will help you get a good grasp on what you want long term... i just upgraded to an RE superflex 3.5 with adj control arms and f/r track bars..if you want a couple pics of how you rig would be with it just drop me a PM,



This is a great option! since you're new to all this, it can be a bit overwhelming, especially on pirate. i would take fearfact up on his offer, wheel your rig and find out what you personally like. I can promise you that if you catch the bug, whatever $$ you spend today on your jeep will be worthless to you in 3 years. have fun!:)

Build Sheet Link (http://www-5.jeep.com/wccsapp/universal/J/index.jsp?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Jeep&familyStr=brand&franchise=J&actionURL=/wccs/brand_forms/us/webform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U)

Just fill it out
Thanks for the link...Ok i filled out the sheet and sumitted it. When will it come in and what all does it tell?

Thanks for the link...Ok i filled out the sheet and sumitted it. When will it come in and what all does it tell?

Takes a few weeks and will give you a lot of info on when it was built, where and with what.

Just remembered, What did you put in the request, You have to request a build sheet. Should have told you earlier

Thanks for the link...Ok i filled out the sheet and sumitted it. When will it come in and what all does it tell?

Build sheet will provide detailed information about how your Jeep was equipped as it rolled off assembly line. Information provided will include engine type, transmission type, transfer case type, axle types, gear ratios of said axles and if there is a limited slip device in the D44 (if it is a D44), etc., etc.

You will want to put the build sheet in a safe place as you will want to refer to it from time to time....... that is until there really isn't any OEM type stuff on your Jeep. :D

I saw a sticker one time that said:

"It was a Jeep thing....... all that shit broke"

didnt think the 44 was an option untill 01...

didnt think the 44 was an option untill 01...

It was even a special order option in 97...

It was even a special order option in 97...

I have a Jeep book that says it wasn't an option until 1998........ Yet I have seen other resource information that says the D44 was available in 1997, but it had 3:53 Gear ratio where as all the other years the D44 came with 3:73 gear ratio.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0014.jpg

Does anyone know what this little red light in the middle of the pic is? while driving it clicks like a blinker at random times and it shines red when turn on.

I have a similar light in a different location on my 1998. It's for an aftermarket fuel cut-off. Look around- under dash, in the glove compartment, etc- for a small, unlabled toggle switch. If your's blinks all the time, it's been turned off.

I have a similar light in a different location on my 1998. It's for an aftermarket fuel cut-off. Look around- under dash, in the glove compartment, etc- for a small, unlabled toggle switch. If your's blinks all the time, it's been turned off.

How is he driving with the fuel turned off?

BTW - I have five of those lights in my jeep. It could be for any thing. Lights, Fan, Fuel, Trunk Monkey, and my moneys still on an alarm.

:lmao:

My money's on trunk monkey

I will fallow the wire tommarow and get back to you guy to see what it is.

I say you just do a 1" body and motormount flush mount skid and highline it and run 35's. I have 36's wit just a 1" body and lots of cutting and it flexes great. Check out rokmen's adjustable arms they're the best.

here is my rear drain bolt to see if its a Dana44 but i asked my brother who did a solid alex swoop on his 88 pathfinder and he said it wasnt a dana44.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0023.jpg

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0022.jpg

I was just looking for the wire to that little red light when I came across this switch above the OBD2 plug in. I switched the switch i sure enough it turn off that light. Now im wondering what is the entire purpose of the light and the switch. Does anyone else have this switch? This week im going to the local dealer and asking if they know anything about it But most likly they wont know anything.

I have a similar light in a different location on my 1998. It's for an aftermarket fuel cut-off. Look around- under dash, in the glove compartment, etc- for a small, unlabled toggle switch. If your's blinks all the time, it's been turned off.

Is this the switch?

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0022.jpg

I was just looking for the wire to that little red light when I came across this switch above the OBD2 plug in. I switched the switch i sure enough it turn off that light. Now im wondering what is the entire purpose of the light and the switch. Does anyone else have this switch? This week im going to the local dealer and asking if they know anything about it But most likly they wont know anything.

Someone added that after the fact, So I HIGHLY doubt that any one has the same light.

Hell it could a toggle to turn the light, and give the effect of an alarm.

here is my rear drain bolt to see if its a Dana44 but i asked my brother who did a solid alex swoop on his 88 pathfinder and he said it wasnt a dana44.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0023.jpg

take a picture from a little further back. Then we might be able to tell.

Back up a little so we can see the entire diff cover. Also, flip that switch then see if the engine will start.... If engine runs, look for a wire around the front bumper, there may have been lights that were removed.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/DSCN0022.jpg

I was just looking for the wire to that little red light when I came across this switch above the OBD2 plug in. I switched the switch i sure enough it turn off that light. Now im wondering what is the entire purpose of the light and the switch. Does anyone else have this switch? This week im going to the local dealer and asking if they know anything about it But most likly they wont know anything.

Looks like my switch. If I flip the switch, my jeep will start and run, but the light will flash continually. Flip it back, it will not start until I flash the high beams on and off, while cranking. Once it starts in that manner, light goes off.

thats wierd but i will try it.

Not necessarily true. All Jeeps are different when it comes to needing the SYE...

Agree, mine with a 4" lift needed one, drive line vibes at take off but my neighbors was fine with the same lift.

sorry its taken so long to post up more for you..my offer still stands... everyone here will tell you that your plans willbe changing in time, so an interoductory type route may serve you well..im glad i did it this way, only on 31's still but ready for 35s now..ill run out and take pics of my setup i just finished last week (RE superflex 4.5 w/3.5 springs, and some other shit)
heres with rubi springs, disco and front spacers
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/7655/spacerfront.jpg

next is plus rear spacers and 1 in b/l
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/46/flexed.jpg


and same setup flat to range the size
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1250/towingjeep.jpg

here the current setup..re 4.5 superflex w/3.5s, 1 in b/l, belly up skid plus every other skid feasible under it, 8.8 rear, a to z rockers jeeperman carreier/bumper,sniper fab front bumper and a bunch of other stuff.. alot is coming off soon to sell and go a different route (rockers-rear bumper probably more)
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/5237/dsc00579l.jpg

thanks for all the pictures you have a really nice jeep!

OK finally saved my pennies to buy the rubicon express 3.5" standard system . Im goin to put it on this weekend and was wondering if I could buy front lower adjustable control arms to help caster?

Thanks Koulton

OK finally saved my pennies to buy the rubicon express 3.5" standard system . Im goin to put it on this weekend and was wondering if I could buy front lower adjustable control arms to help caster?

Thanks Koulton

No..... the fixed RE lower control arms are longer than your OEM arms for this reason and to give you a better pavement ride. Fixed lowers, adjustable uppers.

I'd scrap the whole idea.
Nothing says Hard Core more than Geo Metro!

[QUOTE=Little Jeep;11767169]"No..... the fixed RE lower control arms are longer than your OEM arms for this reason"

I dont think the standard system RE7002 comes with control arms though.

[QUOTE=Little Jeep;11767169]"No..... the fixed RE lower control arms are longer than your OEM arms for this reason"

I dont think the standard system RE7002 comes with control arms though.

It doesn't...... but you can purchase them as an individual item.

Thanks.

What would you recommend as far as brand for the fixed lowers and adjustable uppers?

Thanks.

What would you recommend as far as brand for the fixed lowers and adjustable uppers?

Anything EXCEPT Skyjunker :eek:

There are a lot of good brands. BDS has a "You break it, we replace it" warranty. I don't think you can ever go wrong with Rubicon Express. This is just a few, I'm sure there are a lot of other brands that will work just fine. Probably all priced about the same, so it will get down to what you like.

This is a great option! since you're new to all this, it can be a bit overwhelming, especially on pirate. i would take fearfact up on his offer, wheel your rig and find out what you personally like. I can promise you that if you catch the bug, whatever $$ you spend today on your jeep will be worthless to you in 3 years. have fun!:)

damn straight.

do a 2" spacer lift, get some 33s, get some seat time, and find a group to ride with... then figure out where you wanna really spend your money down the line.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/IMG_0071.jpg

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/IMG_0069.jpg
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/IMG_0105.jpg
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/IMG_0359.jpg

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/koulton001/IMG_9500.jpg

4.5" RE superflex
AA see kit
tomwood's shaft
33x12.5 on 15x8 4in b.s.

I didn't see it answered...but that is a dana 44 rear axle. Dana 35 rear axles had a rubber fill plug...dana 44 has the screw in fill plug. As for arms, I'd go ahead and get some with some type of joint on each end instead of a joint and a bushing.

What is a SEE kit? Do you mean SYE?
Tnx. J.B.

I didn't see it answered...but that is a dana 44 rear axle. Dana 35 rear axles had a rubber fill plug...dana 44 has the screw in fill plug.

X2. I dont know why no one else saw this...:confused:

I didn't see it answered...but that is a dana 44 rear axle. Dana 35 rear axles had a rubber fill plug...dana 44 has the screw in fill plug. As for arms, I'd go ahead and get some with some type of joint on each end instead of a joint and a bushing.

X2. I dont know why no one else saw this...:confused:

You guys do realize this discussion has been going on since August 2010 and that even though a round metal screw in fill plug, not a rubber plug used in a d35 would lead you to think this maybe a D44, without seeing the shape of the diff cover to confirm axle type, the close up of just the fill plug doesn't mean it isn't an after market diff cover. It looks like it might be an OEM diff cover, but you can't say for sure based upon the photo.

You guys do realize this discussion has been going on since August 2010 and that even though a round metal screw in fill plug, not a rubber plug used in a d35 would lead you to think this maybe a D44, without seeing the shape of the diff cover to confirm axle type, the close up of just the fill plug doesn't mean it isn't an after market diff cover. It looks like it might be an OEM diff cover, but you can't say for sure based upon the photo.
Yep :D
And who puts an aftermarket diff cover on a 35 :shaking:
I guess we're ASSuming stock parts here...

Yep :D
And who puts an aftermarket diff cover on a 35 :shaking:
I guess we're ASSuming stock parts here...

How silly of me, no one ever locks a d35, or does other stupid shit to a turd of an axle.

How silly of me, no one ever locks a d35, or does other stupid shit to a turd of an axle.
It's all just speculation really until the op pops up from a year and a half ago to verify for us what it really is.
To me however, it looks like a grimy stock cover. The grunge on it is definitely not aftermarket :homer:

I have a Jeep book that says it wasn't an option until 1998........ Yet I have seen other resource information that says the D44 was available in 1997, but it had 3:53 Gear ratio where as all the other years the D44 came with 3:73 gear ratio.


This is completely correct. I have a 97 TJ Sport. Came with a Dana 44. And yes it has the 3:53 gear ratio.