I love working on my jeep but i couldnt find anyone to help me install new gears so i took it to a reputable shop supposedly. I test drove it no problems but on the way home when i pushed the clutch in and made a right hand turn in makes a wine. I went back and he swears up and down that this is part of the break in and that it will go away. I dont know if i buy that. Any input on this?

Could be, what gears replaced what gears, what axle, what vehicle?

Its a dana 35 with a super 35 kit running 456 gears it had 307s in it before.

its a 2002 tj with 4.0

?????? Did I read that right?
It only whines with the clutch in and turning right?
No other time? and he said it's normal breakin?

it wont go away!!!!!! my mech said the same thing... they just say that to get you to go away. new cars dont make any break-in noise?

New gear break in procedure.
New oil should be a 90-140W for break in
Drive said rig at speed of 55mph-65mph for 12-15 minutes. Let cool down
Drive said rig at same as above back home, let cool down.
-Change oil 80w-90w
-inspect gear pattern
-inspect BL
(I stay with 90-140 because is helps keep my locker performing more smoothly)

Drive rig for at least 500 miles with no load on gears(if its a tow rig)
-change oil again
-inspect gear pattern
-inspect BL

But this all my opinion and what I would do if its a DD or tow rig. I did the two 15 minute runs then a 200 mile run and changed my oil and inspections but mines a pure trail rig that may only see about 1000 miles a year on pavement.(its a trailer queen).

I love working on my jeep but i couldnt find anyone to help me install new gears so i took it to a reputable shop supposedly. I test drove it no problems but on the way home when i pushed the clutch in and made a right hand turn in makes a wine. I went back and he swears up and down that this is part of the break in and that it will go away. I dont know if i buy that. Any input on this?

Its a dana 35 with a super 35 kit running 456 gears it had 307s in it before.

Just a guess here, but the Super 35 kit comes with a locker. It's probably a Detroit and what you are hearing is tire squeal around the corner. It's common for the Detroit to stay locked up on right turns.

The ring and pinion are not effected by turning either direction ,the effect of turning starts at the wheel and stops at the cross shaft of the differential and not to the r&p.

The R&P will grind or whine according to acceleration or decel or cruise .or a combo of some or all.

The likeliest thing to me is that the axle shaft on either side is moving in or out and the brakes or reluctor ring for the ABS is rubbing.

Any part of the diff or axles can also be moving /rubbing also .

If your kit has a clutch posi of some sort ,they can whine or chatter in a turn :the inside wheel slows down compared to the outside tire ,so if the right side clutch (or locker components that do the same thing)are not working correctly ,a right turn will make it do weird things .

When I say the inside tire slows down ,you can apply plenty of power while turning ,and that will equal the speed ,see if the noise goes away.

Lift up the rear end and turn the axles by hand and move them in and out and see if you can find the noise.

You got new axles also ,probably with "C" clip grooves in them and "C" clips either incorporated into the diff or separate .With machining differences and possible assembly mishaps ,the axles might be in the wrong spots ,causing rubbing.

If you have axles with out "C" clips ,with press-on bearings , the bearings could be assembled incorrectly at the axle flange ,causing a rubbing in any part of the system.

Start checking parts ,YOU WILL need to know what all this stuff is ,because YOU WILL be breaking it and fixing it ,that axle is a POS. so learn with this axle and then use what you learned putting money into this axle and put together a better axle later.