Any one make them? I'm just putting this together in my head, but can the Dana 44 crowd put the tie rods behind the housing? Not sure if there'd be enough meat around the ball joint for clearance, caliper clearance, etc.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Bryan

It is doable, and done quite regularly. Bob, for one makes them.
www.roggyenterprises.com

Scott sells a set .... http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/steering/highsteer.htm

http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/steering/highsteer/dana44/erd44arms.jpg

- jack

There's enough meat, but because of the stress involved, I really recommend that you use the Avalanche 5/8" stud kits with the double arms, regardless of whose double arms you use.

i got a question. why is the left arm(driver side) also doubled up? it is cuz the process is teh same u just drill the holes on teh other side or........ just wondering is all, i dig the workmanship in all teh sets ive seen, jiMMy

Originally posted by The Jerk
i got a question. why is the left arm(driver side) also doubled up? it is cuz the process is teh same u just drill the holes on teh other side or?

It's 'cause the arm blanks are the same till the holes are tapered.

Also 'cause it's cheaper to just include the extra material, than it is to redo the setup (again) for no left side front half, until you do about 20 sets at a shot.

Eric left it that way so he'd have options on hooking up ram assist after the fact, but I don't see there being a lot of room for it above the spring.

Most importantly... so it also fits postal jeeps. :)

Great info. Thanks!
:beer:

Bryan

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


It's 'cause the arm blanks are the same till the holes are tapered.

Also 'cause it's cheaper to just include the extra material, than it is to redo the setup (again) for no left side front half, until you do about 20 sets at a shot.

Eric left it that way so he'd have options on hooking up ram assist after the fact, but I don't see there being a lot of room for it above the spring.

Most importantly... so it also fits postal jeeps. :) cool, i figured at much. i can see an easy install for teh ram off the left front taper, coolio, jiMMy

WHAT IS THE POINT OF MOVING THE TIE ROD BEHIND THE AXLE??

FOR DL ANGLE?
FOR MORE CLEARANCE?

YOU ALMOST HAVE TO TRY TO HIT A NORMAL HIGH STEER SETUP ON ROCKS.
SO WHY PUT ALL THAT EXTRA STRESS ON THE BALL JOINT?

IM NOT IGNORANT.I JUST THINK SOME IDEAS ARE JUST BETTER LEFT TO IDEAS.

STEER ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION......GET IT STEER..:D

Originally posted by 71RCKCRZR RYAN
WHAT IS THE POINT OF MOVING THE TIE ROD BEHIND THE AXLE??

FOR DL ANGLE?
FOR MORE CLEARANCE?

YOU ALMOST HAVE TO TRY TO HIT A NORMAL HIGH STEER SETUP ON ROCKS.
SO WHY PUT ALL THAT EXTRA STRESS ON THE BALL JOINT?

IM NOT IGNORANT.I JUST THINK SOME IDEAS ARE JUST BETTER LEFT TO IDEAS.

STEER ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION......GET IT STEER..:D

I say leave it in the front too..but whateer floats his boat...err steers his rig...er somethin.

It's easier to achieve the correct ackerman angle with the tie rod behind the axle. And when you're really "getting it" low steer will die.

Originally posted by 71RCKCRZR RYAN
WHAT IS THE POINT OF MOVING THE TIE ROD BEHIND THE AXLE??
FOR DL ANGLE?
FOR MORE CLEARANCE?

When Eric Ruhl designed these arms, he had issues with the tie rod (high steer) being directly below the pitman arm.

So when his Jeep compressed the left side suspension, the tie rod bound against the pitman arm and draglink.

Since he didn't want to go to low steer, for fear of mangling the tie rod, and he couldn't shorten the tierod arms far enough to gain the room he needed, he redesigned it to put the tierod behind.

So the bottom line is, it's for more clearance, but it's more clearance from the tierod to the draglink/pitman, not from the rocks.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
There's enough meat, but because of the stress involved, I really recommend that you use the Avalanche 5/8" stud kits with the double arms, regardless of whose double arms you use.
Those work with the stock taper and cones?

I'm interested in these cause if i go hi-steer the tie rod will hit the steering box on compression.

Dallas

Originally posted by CJ
Those work with the stock taper and cones?

Stock taper, but you have to drill out the arm slightly, and redrill and retap the steering knuckle too. New cones come with the kit--call Avalanche for more info/pricing, or visit them at http://www.avalancheengr.com

Scott what type of failures han you seen or heard of with the standard studs? Were these with the ones you ship or the McMaster Carr ones?

I ran mine behind the diff because it was much easier to mount my ram in that configuration.
It works very well.
I have broken one arm (the driver side), at the most rearward of the 3 mounting holes.

yup mounting the ram behind teh axle is childs play. (notw pic is big 60 stuff, lil 44 guys beware :flipoff2: ) jiMMy

Ill remember that comment when your passenger side bolts shear off at the leaf springs,...Ive only seen that happen a couple dozen times or so. :D:flipoff2:

Originally posted by H8monday
Ill remember that comment when your passenger side bolts shear off at the leaf springs,...Ive only seen that happen a couple dozen times or so. :D:flipoff2: na, its been retired to a stricktly ice cream getting weekend cruiser. lol. jIMMy

I run the tie rod behind the axle it works great, got the idea from H8monday.I had clearence issues when I did my shackle reversal and moved my front end up 4 inches.