Wiring:
So I put pins 1, 7, and 9 went to ignition hot wire with an inline fuse.
Pin 11 I wired to the black and yellow wire in the stock samurai harness on the passenger side under the dash.
Here's the link again if you need to know which pins are which.
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mini4x/efiswap/efiswap.htm

Pulled out a spark plug and touched it to the side of the head while cranking the engine, no spark at all, the distributor is plugged into the sidekick harness.

Here's the deal to make it run you need four power leads connected at the least. Here's how I hooked up most everything. If you have any specific questions I am happy to answer. It looks to me like you may have connected a wire or two wrong. I am guessing it is your neutral saftey switch wire (pin 11 or 12 from the tracker ECM)

Here's a run down of what wires are required and their color at the tracker harness/ecm connector. I just finished mine up and it is running well. I used the schematics posted below, because my harness was not marked and some wires were missing.


Black/Red: (thick wire) From: tracker ECM. To: Battery + 15 amp fuse inline. (always hot/relay power)

Solid White: From: tracker ECM. To: Vehicle battery + 15 amp inline fuse. (ECM memory always hot)

Black/white: From: tracker ECM. To:12v on start up and when running. (to black white wire in samurai harness) This wire can be found at the old carbureted ECM, also appears at the alternator and various other positions in the old samurai harness.

Black/yellow: From tracker ECM to: Black/Yellow wire in old samurai harness (found under dash near the old ECM and at the samurai starter).




Note: The above connection can be misleading. Depending on which transmission type your vehicle came form the factory with it can be one of two different wires.

If your ECM came from an automatic transmission you will use the Black/red wire from pin 12

If your ECM came in a vehicle equipped with a manual transmission the wire will come from pin B11 and will be colored black/yellow.

In either case these wires were for the transmission clutch and neutral saftey switches. In order for the tracker ECM to fire these wires need 12+, but ONLY while the engine is cranking.


As for grounds you should have
BLK/Green (few of these)
BLK/Blue

Hope that helps, these schematics saved me arse! They will be hosted permanently at the links below. Feel free to hot link them if they will help anyone else.

--Sky


Quick and dirty track/kick schematic (http://www.skyscomputers.com/ZUK/schematic.jpg)

Complete samurai wiring diagram schematic (http://www.skyscomputers.com/ZUK/samuraiwiringdiagram.jpg)

When I splice in these wires, do I reconnect them to the tracker harness too? or does that matter?

Uhm they all go from the ECM to the wires posted. No reason to go back? I am confused at your question.
So directly from the ECM to their destination.

Oh a couple I forgot to mention (not required but should be hooked up)
Solid Yellow wire from tracker ECM to samurai cluster with new a VSS installed

Brown wire from trcaker ECM splice into thsis wire(not cut) and connect it to the brown wire in the samurai harness. this wire is found near the old carb ECM connector and is to operate your tach (if you have one and want it to work)

Don;t mess with any of the engine sensor connectors, or plugs. They should all just plug right in and work.

Grr forgetfull.

Check the wires at the TBI where they plug in. After the 6 pin connection at the throttle body they tend to come apart and split. I don't know why because they don't move nut every one I have come across is corroded andp split.

Also make sure the brown wire that goes to the tach also goes up to where it is supposed to be on or near the ignitor and coil. Those also come apart at the connectors. Seen lots of splices, fixes and bad wires there too.

BTW,
If the two wires mentioned in my earlier post are not, Black/red and black/yellow do net get power when you hit the key, you will not gett any spark. They olny need power while the engine is cranking. (black/yellow wire to the starter on your samurai harness is where to connect them)

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/downsized_0626091310.jpg
what do the two plugs in the center of the picture go to?

the large round one looks like the alternator connector. give us a pic of the face of the connector. the way the connectors are designed is like a puzzle, they only fit their proper mate.

found out, alternator and transfer case plugs, no idea how they ended up on top of the engine but oh well. Still not getting any spark, about to switch to the samurai harness and a myside kit... nobody has wiring diagrams posted for an automatic transmission and I'm beginning to think I got myself in over my head.

i would check to see if power is getting to and from ignition amplifier that feeds the coil. also, the coil could have cracked around the "pole" piece (horseshoe looking part) and let water in. it happened to me. on my tracker the amp is mounted over the coil. a better "hot" coil can easily be wired in as a replacement. i used a jacobs ford canister type. it was a small but definite improvement. i used a test light to determine power to ignitor/amp, amp to coil, and ground. also, is the ecm known to be good? the 8v ecm's are somewhat prone to a capacitor failure that is usually gradually worse with age. something that has sat in a junkyard may be corroded away where this capacitor leaks.

Those diagrams didn't help? The round connetor is t-case or 5th gear switch.

Aas for the automatic part there should be many extra wires.. the one with the black on the bottom and whit on top..how many wires does it have what is their color.

It could be the timing jumper ..leave unconnected.

Don't forget to hook up the tach wire tot he noise suppresor

where did you get the ign. hot from? Make sure the the source has power in the crank position as well as key on position.



What is the a2 connector in the swap info link? it has a FI fuse wire that may need to be hooked up.

okay, which wire goes to the positive terminal on the coil? brown? or black / white? and second, posted some more pictures of how I wired it exactly. And in case some of you didn't catch it, to be more specific this engine and wiring harness is out of a 1989 suzuki sidekick 1.6 8v with an automatic transmission.
Posted below are some pictures and how they are wired.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/downsized_0627091548a.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/downsized_0627091548a2.jpg
second picture is the original for as much clarity as possible.
1 & 2 (red) are blue and black, not the black and blue wires, or the solid blue. those two wires are spliced in the thick white and green wire on the sidekick harness that I discovered to be hot.
3 & 4 are black and red, and solid white. those two are spliced into a 15 amp fuse wired hot to the battery.
5 is black and yellow and is wired into the samurai harness below the dash (black and yellow start wire)
The engine is getting fuel but no spark, (or so it smells.) the fuel pump is wired to the black and white ignition wire in the samurai harness via relay.
Below is a picture of were the blue and black wires meet together and go into another relay looking thing...
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/kjhjkhkj.jpg

i've got some help for you. i have a different coil than stock so i have been through coil wiring before. i haven't dismantled my truck yet, but i will be doing what you are shortly. i popped the hood and put the test light to work and verified a few things. the brown wire goes to the + on the coil. the black and white goes to the - side. tests were conducted with the ignition at run. make sure you still have power through the brown wire at "start" position also. the device the wires are coming from is the ignitor or ignition amplifier.http://fox14 007.jpeg

Damn you got wires everywhere. What did you do to that thing. Well hopefully you get these thing s down so when I start plugging mine in your in the know

Which coil are you using?

The black and white wire from what I gather goes all o er the place. it supplies power when the ignition is in the "on" position. It also connects to the alternator, and a few other spots.

I can show you with what I have. Just tell me where you need the pictures taken. It looks like I have the same style harness.

Their are only two relays and both are attached to the ecm via stock mounting hardware.. I don;t know what box you have there.

Here's the million dollar question. Did you by-pass the clutch/neutral saftey switch? If not everything will work, except you will not have fire.

That switch comes from one pin if it's A/T another if it's a standard Transmission.

again my compnonents are pretty much like yours. if youneed to know where a wires ends up under the hood let me know.

FWIW I removed ALL of the old samurai wiring- every bit except what is needed to supply power, lights and starter. it made it much easier to diagnose issues. even tough it was a pain in the ass.

okay, ground 1
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/2.jpg
ground 2
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/3.jpg
noise suppressor, center wire is solid brown, outside is brown and white and goes to the distributor/ coil.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/4.jpg
the solid brown wire goes into the cab and connects to the red wire inside here:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u119/312necro213/GetAttachmentaspx.jpg

is the main relay triggering?

Oh and now im forgetting. The park/ nuetral switch im told was the black and red wire off the ecm on the green connector, so i attached it to the white wire both are labeled 3,4 in the pictures above.

when i try and start it, something definitely clicks inside the computer... if thats what you mean...

When you turn the key to the "on" position you should hear the fuel pump kick up, the sensors click to their correct position, then the pump kick back off.

I would look at the schematic for the proper wires to by-pass the saftey switches. I always check the schematic without it, it's just a big guess.


when i try and start it, something definitely clicks inside the computer... if thats what you mean...

You should also wire wheel your grounds. Mine were wire wheeled to bare metal, and I had two bolted to the same spot. The actuall corrosion on one of the ring connectors kep the second from getting a good ground.

turn the key on. and wiggle the grounds see if anything clicks or the fuel pump starts back up while wiggling.

I'm all game to help if you know where your problems lie.

The brown wire..wy does it connect to te red wire? unless it;s a tie in you added, brown connects to brown on bot arnesses
You should also wire wheel your grounds. Mine were wire wheeled to bare metal, and I had two bolted to the same spot. The actuall corrosion on one of the ring connectors kep the second from getting a good ground.

turn the key on. and wiggle the grounds see if anything clicks or the fuel pump starts back up while wiggling.

I'm all game to help if you know where your problems lie.

and the other reason I had TT do my harness swap (16V), ....tech support!

and it runs. grinded the grounds, swapped the brown wire to the brown wire. kinda loud, forgot to put the exhaust on :D

Thats awesome cant wait to see how it goes with the new power

started pulling my efi harness today. i am going to weed out all non-efi/ non-ignition wires BEFORE i attempt to splice...been down that road before with the ford eec-iv system. out of 60 pins, only 30+ were needed. i suspect there is alot to clean up on the zuker system too.

yea there is, tons and tons of extra wires, might have to take out my entire harness again to fix it...

too bad the suzuki system isn't like the ford. the engine management has it's own harness and has a disconnect at the engine so you can leave the sensors all plugged in while you weed out the rest.

Which coil are you using?

The black and white wire from what I gather goes all o er the place. it supplies power when the ignition is in the "on" position. It also connects to the alternator, and a few other spots.

I can show you with what I have. Just tell me where you need the pictures taken. It looks like I have the same style harness.

Their are only two relays and both are attached to the ecm via stock mounting hardware.. I don;t know what box you have there.

Here's the million dollar question. Did you by-pass the clutch/neutral saftey switch? If not everything will work, except you will not have fire.

That switch comes from one pin if it's A/T another if it's a standard Transmission.

again my compnonents are pretty much like yours. if youneed to know where a wires ends up under the hood let me know.

FWIW I removed ALL of the old samurai wiring- every bit except what is needed to supply power, lights and starter. it made it much easier to diagnose issues. even tough it was a pain in the ass.

ok what if i did by pass the clutch start safety switch by just crossing the wires because i did and i dont have spark how do i fix this to get spark i swapped out a 94 tracker wiring harness with the 1600 8v engine

Which wires did you cross or short out?
And what are you working on stock samurai, or samurai with 1.6 add on?
Sorry my server moved and I haven't uploaded all my pictures again so the diagrams can be found at kick-fix.com

If you are working with a 1.6 and 1.6 ecm, the clutch safety wire needs 12v, but only while cranking (power on start). form what I remember.

If you are doing a conversion take a look at the wires i posted above as for "needed power wires" that should tell you exactly what you need to hook up to get spark.

Give me more information on what you are working with, and I'd be happy to help further.

if you are working on a stock samurai I can dig up the wiring schematics and have a look there too.

HTH
--Sky


ok what if i did by pass the clutch start safety switch by just crossing the wires because i did and i dont have spark how do i fix this to get spark i swapped out a 94 tracker wiring harness with the 1600 8v engine

Which wires did you cross or short out?
And what are you working on stock samurai, or samurai with 1.6 add on?
Sorry my server moved and I haven't uploaded all my pictures again so the diagrams can be found at kick-fix.com

If you are working with a 1.6 and 1.6 ecm, the clutch safety wire needs 12v, but only while cranking (power on start). form what I remember.

If you are doing a conversion take a look at the wires i posted above as for "needed power wires" that should tell you exactly what you need to hook up to get spark.

Give me more information on what you are working with, and I'd be happy to help further.

if you are working on a stock samurai I can dig up the wiring schematics and have a look there too.

HTH
--Sky

ya i miss read what you wrote the first time i went back and read it again and realized i didnt do anything wrong but thanks ill check out kick-fix