A friend of mine owns a 96', he was working on it over here yesterday replacing the supply line from the tank. After he replaced it he cranked it up, it ran for a few seconds then he shut it off. Then went to restart, and nothing. So we bled the fuel to the filter, got a good stream there. Still nothing. He cranked on it for a few minutes (20 second bursts), with nothing. We cracked the #1 injector line and nothing comes out, not even air.
We unplugged the batteries thinking the ecm needed to reset, plugged them back in and it fired right up, ran for a few seconds and died. Now no start again, unplugged batteries again and still nothing.
Any ideas what it could be? The PMD has been replaced and relocated to the fender.
Where is the shutoff solenoid on these? Any way to check and see if they are working?

www.dieselplace.com

what codes is it pulling?
whats the injection timing when cranking?
is the comp telling the shutoff to come on?
i cant do dick for you wihtout you haveing a REAL scan tool, otherwise its just a guessing game.

run a jumper from the shutoff solenoid on the top of the injection pump directly to the battery (12gauge wire right to the top of the pump) if it starts your not getting enough voltage at the solenoid my old 6.5 would have that problem every once in a while usually once the weather got hot, was usually due to the temp change and high battery load from my old starter plus the change in temp would fry a cell in the battery it would always crank fine but not open the solenoid.... sounds weird but thats what it was in my truck, problem went away once I replaced the starter (thing had almost 400k on it) since its a 96 it also has the gay ass electronic ds4 pump and the optical sensor in them is known to go out, mine was a 93 6.5TD so it had a manual db2 pump which was a way better setup!!!

those are also an electric lift pump,yes? is it coming on?

those are also an electric lift pump,yes? is it coming on?

if hes bleeding the fuel at the bleeder, the lift pump works..........

even when the lift pumps go they still run its just hard on the pump cause its sucking the fuel out of the tank

Lift pump is working. Dont have any way of checking the codes...
I am guessing the shutoff solenoid is the one infront of the intake, with 2 wires going to it?

if hes bleeding the fuel at the bleeder, the lift pump works..........

doh! :homer: i missed that part... ill be quiet now :D

Reckon he got air in the ip, should have ran the truck untill the the air had passed through, helping with the throttle to avoid it stalling. Whenever this sort of crap happened to my 7.3 idi I usually had to crank the batteries empty a couple of times before I could get it started. Had to crack open all the injector lines and close them when they started to sputter diesel, but this was with a mechanical lift pump.

Reckon he got air in the ip, should have ran the truck untill the the air had passed through, helping with the throttle to avoid it stalling. Whenever this sort of crap happened to my 7.3 idi I usually had to crank the batteries empty a couple of times before I could get it started. Had to crack open all the injector lines and close them when they started to sputter diesel, but this was with a mechanical lift pump.

these trucks self bleed and prime up REAL easy compared to the truck you are talking about.

Good to know, got a 95 suburban with a 6,5td as the family hauler now and I reckon I will, at one point or another, get air into the diesel system.

But why do they bleed so much easier? Isn't the pump basically the same design, just electronically controlled? Is it the electrical pump that does it?

these trucks self bleed and prime up REAL easy compared to the truck you are talking about.

X2 I could change the fuel filter in mine and not even fill the canaster back up after cleaning it out, a few extra cranks and its good to go!!! If you left the lid off of it,it steadly fills up quick with a few cranks if you want to get most the air out, I never had a problem with restart on mine with 400,000 miles worth of filter changes

Good to know, got a 95 suburban with a 6,5td as the family hauler now and I reckon I will, at one point or another, get air into the diesel system.

But why do they bleed so much easier? Isn't the pump basically the same design, just electronically controlled? Is it the electrical pump that does it?
mechanical or electric controlled both have electric lift pumps

the 6.5 IP is very similar to the 6.2 pump with the exption of the electronics for throttle position. the big spade on the very top of the IP with the large pink/red wire is the shut off solonoid. the other two wires help control the fuel flow feed under load, and the high idle feature. the cracking of injectors needs to be done while the system is under pressure, IE while cranking. Yes the 6.5 is electronic pump. However if air is allowed to get into the injection pump and the lines, or injectors. It will in a sense air lock the pump. in other words, it will sometimes take20-30 min of cranking and line bleeding to even start getting any kind of feul out of the lines. I cannot explain why this happens, or how it happens. I have run into it once when I allowed my 24v Cummins to run out of fuel in Dec in WY, air temp was 22F. Took almost an hour of line cracking and pumping to get it running again. I finally devised a way to "one man bleed" I set up some wires with alligator clips at one end, and the propper plug in for the Fuel pump ont he other, thus I could "hot wire" the fuel pump.(the electronic feul pumps are controled by the ECM thus when they sense there is feul they will stop pumping while cranking.) My 6.2 which previously resided in this truck before the Cummins, had a mechanical pump thus I would have to wind on the starter for about 3-4min solid in order to build enough pressure to force the air out of the IP and the lines in order to get it to fire. Thus I REFUSED TO EVER RUN OUT OF FUEL EVER AGAIN....

No idea what happened, we were ready to burn it down so we left it parked for 2 weeks. Went to try it again and it fired right up, he has put more than 500 miles on it with no problems

No idea what happened, we were ready to burn it down so we left it parked for 2 weeks. Went to try it again and it fired right up, he has put more than 500 miles on it with no problems

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: that happened to mine too it was a voltage loss to the injection pump due to a bad starter and had a huge draw, I let it sit for a couple weeks fired it up without problems and didnt happen again for a couple months when the temp changed again