Now why in the hell would you weld the fricking kingpin to the C??? No wonder there was grease all over the place...when I took it all apart...no seal. well NO SHIT...seal wont work with the damn welding bead!! Lil hard to change at some point in time, dontcha think??

So...what are my options...cut/grind away the weld and replace? Run it as is with no grease seal...sell it to one of you for a 6 pack of Busch Light?

Seriously though...why the hell would they do that? Doubt that they stripped the threads.

BTW...bottom bearings were toast. This was all on the drivers side...wonder what surprises I will find on the passenger...

Search stripped kingpin threads. It's more common thatn you think.
Only other option for them was to buy a new inner C. Same option that you now have.

Wow:shaking: .Time for some Dedenbear C's.

Thanks for the reply spidr...had not come across that when reading up on the 60. I will take a look...

Worst part is that this is on the tow rig...I guess a 60 could fit in the back of a 89 CRX....

Or just live with it the way it is and clean up the grease. I'm sure that it is answered elsewhere..but I'll ask...any problems running with it welded in that way? The pin itself is not pitted...looks clean.

edit---

Here is the link to a previous post on the subject...my pissed-off-ness got in the way of my fingers using the SEARCH button....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=611942&highlight=stripped+kingpin+threads

if you try and cut it/remove it, i have a few spares that you can have.

if you try and cut it/remove it, i have a few spares that you can have.


Thanks for the offer...gonna pull the passenger side apart and see what is up there...I'm not a welder...so replacing that damn thing at the house is out of the question.

Now that the thing is this far apart...maybe time for the ORD crossover steering... and some new springs...

Those Dedenbear C's are 250 each...damn...can't imagine what a shop would charge to replace one...let alone TWO if they were bad....

OK..dinner over..back to the V30 tow beast...

Someone proably couldn't find the parts at autozone, so just welded it. I'd cut it off and do it right. You can buy used C's much cheaper and have a local welder put it on if you need to.

worst case you could file down the weld so a seal would work again. not like its a high speed seal there. just a thought.

Now why in the hell would you weld the fricking kingpin to the C??? No wonder there was grease all over the place...when I took it all apart...no seal. well NO SHIT...seal wont work with the damn welding bead!! Lil hard to change at some point in time, dontcha think??

So...what are my options...cut/grind away the weld and replace? Run it as is with no grease seal...sell it to one of you for a 6 pack of Busch Light?

Seriously though...why the hell would they do that? Doubt that they stripped the threads.

BTW...bottom bearings were toast. This was all on the drivers side...wonder what surprises I will find on the passenger...

are ya new here? :laughing:

Its called:

being cheap
trail fix
hillbilly bob jerry rig
you name it.......

are ya new here? :laughing:

Its called:

being cheap
trail fix
hillbilly bob jerry rig
you name it.......

Ha ha ha....that's funny. Nope not new... The PO of this rig was a farmer in Molalla, Oregon...lots of shit that was funky. It is a crew cab long bed srw...probably just rode the ditch roads...and hay fields.

Passenger side is fine...seal is worn out and the bearing is just as bad...at least that bearing stayed in behind the seal...the drivers side seal was all jacked up...oh well...it's only money..

D60's don't break. :confused:



:flipoff2:

D60's don't break. :confused:



:flipoff2:

shit like that just don't happen to D44's or to IFS.... :flipoff2:

The kingpin looks just fine. I would atack it with the die grinder and smooth the weld up so you can get a seal in there.

If they were smart they would have welded it in from the bottom so you could still get the seal to work...

D60's don't break. :confused:



:flipoff2:


Bahahahahahahahahaha


:flipoff2:

If they were smart they would have welded it in from the bottom so you could still get the seal to work...

And there inlies the underlying problem to this whole situation.:shaking:

And there inlies the underlying problem to this whole situation.:shaking:

I'm with ya there...I was trying to find a funny way to put it.

I have new Timken bearings on order, will get the rotors turned and install new Performance Friction pads, new brake hoses, swap to crossover steering, and replace the tie rod and end. I should pull the leaves out and replace the bushings too...truck has either 261 or 361 thousand on it...springs are a bit on the "frowny side".

I will try the file/grind down the weld option to see if I can install the grease seal. The last thing I need to do is pull that axle out...but since I will have most of it apart and or disconnected...

You have the best luck....

The kingpin looks just fine. I would atack it with the die grinder and smooth the weld up so you can get a seal in there.


screw all that noise. Just use RTV. Liberally. :flipoff2:

screw all that noise. Just use RTV. Liberally. :flipoff2:

Same here... just let it dry totally, first.

You have the best luck....

Ha ha ha...

Not as good as yours with 67-72 Chevys... ;)

Figured I'd get a reply from someone about the crossover steering...even though it is a tow vehicle...it HAS to be better than that factory crap on there...

Yep, I did xover on mine, too.

screw all that noise. Just use RTV. Liberally. :flipoff2:

Fuck all that shit. Just weld the knuckle to the C. No reason to use RTV to seal it. Welding it will hold the grease in better.:laughing:

Finally got all the parts in that I needed...for some reason nobody had "everything"...had to go to one place for Timken wheel bearings, another for the seal, another for brake hoses...etc.

I did work on grinding down the weld around the kingpin on the drivers side...seal does not quite fit...will work it some more later.

I cleaned up the old springs and compared them to the new. I KNEW that the old ones were worn out...because when putting on the cap with the new springs...had to clamp it down to get the bolts to start in the threads.

Old kingpin spring height = 2.140 inches
New kingpin spring height = 2.310 inches.

Now I can understand why a stack of washers can help make up the difference when they are worn out. Mine are down .170 inches a little less than 3/16 of an inch. Here are the pics of the springs.

Back outside to work now that the Tornado warning and the thunder / lightning and rain are done. Oh yeah...making some ribs too...:flipoff2:

if you had gone to highonda/ www.extremeaxlesales.com you would have gotten everything, and probably cheaper.

already had the kingpin kit...that is nice...

damn seals and bearings...one would figure that i could get it today and do it TO FUCKING DAY...but...Nooooooooooooooooooooooo. Some one had to weld the fucking pin.

NOTED though...will book mark that site. Thanks.

mmm, ribs smell yummay

or i can just give you a case of beer for it and well call it a day:D