i am getting power from onboard welder and 4 transformers
that are mounted on the jeep

and the onboard air
at 100psi





it will cut 1/4 inch steel

Okay man, that is a bit too little info.

Pony up!!!

Cost, parts, specs!!!

trans formers from microwaves were free
15ft hose 10$
nosel from welding store 23$
i had every thing else


total cost 33$

and about 40 hours of labor to figer it out

wow wow wow

you can make a olasma cuter at home?

how cuz I need one

no shit. i dont need one onboard, but i sure could use one in the shop. Spill it, i gotta know.

Dallas

damn you need to make this an official write up for pirate4x4!

mmmmmmmm...:drool:...must...:drool:...know...more. ..:lickinglips:...

i will do a write up



but i want to see if i can sell the plans to (mobie weld) first


hehehe


how much do you think they will pay

help us poor fools and do-everything-yourselfers first, then sell the plan to someone

so tell us how its done

That is something that everyone needs to know!!! come on help out a poor collage kid!!!

Edit: Anything thicker than 1/4", like a sever?

Bryan

yea I just finished the welder and the already had the OBA so you gotta let me know how to do this. I ahve seen it done before but they guy who had it didn't do it so he didn't know how it was done.

Show us the way. Let your self go to the dark side. Let us know your great wisdom.....

Tell us please..:p :p

-Darius

Can a guy be banned from POR for being selfish?!?!?!:D :flipoff2:

Come awwwwn, give it up!!!!!

Originally posted by flmanyj
i will do a write up



but i want to see if i can sell the plans to (mobie weld) first


hehehe


how much do you think they will pay
I don't think they would pay you anything. They could probably design their own easy enough. Do the write up and if you want to make some $$$ out of it, put together some "kits" of all the parts needed and sell those.

Originally posted by TORC

I don't think they would pay you anything. They could probably design their own easy enough. Do the write up and if you want to make some $$$ out of it, put together some "kits" of all the parts needed and sell those.

I agree, just posting it here kinda screwed up the selling it. They can design their own. Alot of guys would would pay for a welder/plasma setup, if you wanna sell it to someone I think Brad Kilby would be someone to model after look at all of his OBA stuff sold simply in kit form.

Originally posted by flmanyj
i will do a write up
but i want to see if i can sell the plans to (mobie weld) first
hehehe
how much do you think they will pay

Hummmm ...
Depends on if you stold this idea from Aaron (Team Rush) who this board banned last year for apparently knowing too much.:rolleyes:

See ... On-board plazma cutter thread on ORC BBS (http://tellico.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=offroadjeepshort&Number=826216&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&fpart=1&vc=1)

First pic Ive seen of the home done version. Looks good.
Would you be willing to post a schematic?
How about more pics that show your control box?

I agree, there are probably alot of guys that would be willing to buy a kit. And then there are those of us that like to build our own stuff.

There was another post on this board offering a title to the first guy that did it.... It sounded like Team Rush on the ORC board had it done but he has never produced pics... Looks like you may have won the title.

Originally posted by Jaffer


Hummmm ...
Depends on if you stold this idea from Aaron (Team Rush) who this board banned last year for apparently knowing too much.:rolleyes:

See ... On-board plazma cutter thread on ORC BBS (http://tellico.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=offroadjeepshort&Number=826216&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&fpart=1&vc=1)

No, he was banned because he was a moron - knowledgable or not.

But thanks for the link :p

Has anyone done this before.
Id really like to have one for body work and for around the house

Ok, so I read the thread over on ORC - no real tangible info there either :(

Me personally - I would be more interested in a low buck shop plasma instead of an onboard setup...

Ditto on the shop cutter. I wanna see plans and schematics!

Originally posted by BadDog
Ditto on the shop cutter. I wanna see plans and schematics!

exactly..... it would be easy to improve an OB unit to make it more durable, for a cheep(er) garage unit.... Parts gotta be easy to get...Hang at the local transfer station and grab a few microwaves (if those work)...

Selling the kits would work for a lot of people just to save the time/hastle.. But holding back after posting a pic, is just not cool...

Here's an idea..... patent it, then I can make one for myself...

-yag

Originally posted by BadDog
Ditto on the shop cutter. I wanna see plans and schematics!

no kidding.. say you have a mig welder at home, and an air compressor.

With the right parts, wouldn't it stand to reason it would be really easy to make it work?

Ok since Flmanyj isn't going to make it easy on us does anyone know how a plasma cutter works? I've only used shop ones and you just plugged in electricity and air and presto. We can all figure out how to get on board air and a welder so what goes on in the magic box and how can we cheaply duplicate it?

Travis

Originally posted by Overkiller
Ok since Flmanyj isn't going to make it easy on us does anyone know how a plasma cutter works? I've only used shop ones and you just plugged in electricity and air and presto. We can all figure out how to get on board air and a welder so what goes on in the magic box and how can we cheaply duplicate it?

Travis

Sounds like a good team approach.:cool: I can't wait for the schematic and parts list.

I wish I had any knowledge to contribute.:emb4:

Come awn!!! Post the details!!

There is a basic schematic way down at the bottom of this huge page

http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-237/Ch10.htm

The concept of a plasma cutter is relatively simple. The unique torch is probaby the only thing that would have to be bought new. A standard DC stick welder would probably work as a power supply. The high frequency generator is what flmanyj has probably carved out of old microwaves, and would be relatively easy to build. I've heard that those frequency generators can be bought to convert standard DC welders to TIG without having to use a scratch start, perhaps the same black box would work for plasma cutting. Or if you could build one, you maybe able to use the same DC welder for plasma, and tig with a simple torch change, and possibly polarity reversal. From what I remember (when this was brought up several months ago), the hard part was keeping the home built frequency generators from letting the smoke out during welding.

Chad

I like the idea - as I have a DC stick welder that is new, and not getting used :)

Originally posted by DRM


No, he was banned because he was a moron - knowledgable or not.

But thanks for the link :p


LOL, this is correct........:flipoff2:

http://www.plasma-cutter.com/technical.htm

Ah persistance on yahoo paid off, on the 5th page of a search I found this.

http://www.brwelder.com/accessories/centaccess.htm

Looks like what I'm talking about, designed for tig, but it might work for the high frequency starting spark need for plasma cutting. All we need now is for someone to lay down $260, so if it will work, then open it up and tell us what's inside

chad

Originally posted by zukipuke


...But holding back after posting a pic, is just not cool... I agree.......

Originally posted by chadl

Looks like what I'm talking about, designed for tig, but it might work for the high frequency starting spark need for plasma cutting. All we need now is for someone to lay down $260, so if it will work, then open it up and tell us what's inside


That device is for AC TIG not DC if that makes a difference Chad. A friend of mine borrowed one of those and TIG'd off his AC stick welder till he got a better TIG setup ...

I'm with the consensus that posting a pic and no details is NOT cool at all, just like rubbing our noses in look what I can make and you can't. should have kept the pic to himself.

- jack

Damn.... like some one said lets do the group project aproach. With the colective brain power on board here this should be do-able. Its been a few years for me but hell with a 4 year degree, 2 with full on curcuit analysis, we should be able to work through the details AND come up with a prtical list of easily obtainable parts.....

As far as doing it, hell ill pony up some cash, twords someone test unit. I'm good for a $50 or so donation... And ill help with book work where i can, I just dont have the garage time (or space) for a new side project right now...Hell brain power is on the short side lately...

Where do i send the check...

btw. i printed out the mil spec paper and will be sifting through it today/night

keep the links/ info coming..... i know a few full on EEE people i can drag into this, for help... I'd love nothing better than to see a DIY Plasma Cutter article on the PBB site...

-yag

If robbing the freq generators from microwaves I hope you have no intentions of having kids any time soon. Misused rf can and will cause temporary and permanent sterility. Just an fyi.

Originally posted by Aggro
If robbing the freq generators from microwaves I hope you have no intentions of having kids any time soon. Misused rf can and will cause temporary and permanent sterility. Just an fyi.

No crumb snatchers and you have extra cash to build your rig!

Originally posted by Aggro
If robbing the freq generators from microwaves I hope you have no intentions of having kids any time soon. Misused rf can and will cause temporary and permanent sterility. Just an fyi.
Damn, and to think I actually PAID for it... ;)

I would agree that a "bootie fabbed" (to steal a term from another thread) plasma cutter could be dangerous.

Perhaps there is some other not so-high-frequency high frequency source. It seems to me all you need is a something to initiate the pilot arc to get the air nice and hot (ie ionized) so that the main arc can start. Perhaps the ballists from a fluorescent light would work. Or maybe one of those electricity display things that makes the spark walk up the two wires. Just something that will cause that initial spark to jump from the torch tip to the casing, and work piece (see pic in above post).

I'd definetly be interested in doing a prototype, even with my own money, but right now I'm between houses, and most of my tools and junk are stuffed in a storage area, until I get a house in a few months. Plus I don't have a DC welder (on the horizon though, once I get the house).

Anyway keep the ideas coming

Chad

Sign me up for the group project aproach.

Oh, I *do* intend to keep this thread active till someone (ahemmmmm!) comes up off some info...



I am serious - I will ask that you be BANNED for teasing us like this :p:p:p

Possibly I am wrong (didnt search or even crack my old welding book) But aren't we talking about buildng more of a carbon arc torch than a plasma cutter?

Originally posted by DRM


I am serious - I will ask that you be BANNED for teasing us like this :p:p:p


Damn, Dave,
If you keep getting all of the talent, capable of building these things banned, we will never be able to build a mobi-plaz :flipoff2: (sorry I couldnt resist, and its only a joke, Please, dont take it any further)

OK, here's the circuit diagrams from the first link Chad posted:

Plasma Cutter
http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-237/fig10-72.gif

Carbon Arc Cutter
http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-237/fig10-76.gif

Both work in the same basic way. Get the material molten, then blast away the molten spot with high pressure air/gas.

I also seem to remember another way to cut easily. The way I remember it, you use an arc welding machine, and crank the amperage. Connect a 7018 (I think that's the one) electrode that has been submersed in water overnight. Then strike an arc like normal and cut away. Would give a rough cut, but it beats a hack saw. Anybody else ever hear of this?

That carbon arc cutter looks like all you'd need for the trail. It looks like would just need a special stinger, OBA, and a regular on board welder. Am I missing something:confused:

Originally posted by Im4yotas
I also seem to remember another way to cut easily. The way I remember it, you use an arc welding machine, and crank the amperage. Connect a 7018 (I think that's the one) electrode that has been submersed in water overnight. Then strike an arc like normal and cut away. Would give a rough cut, but it beats a hack saw. Anybody else ever hear of this?

I just buy cutting rods from the welding shop.

Lots of metal sprays everywhere...lots of heat applied to the piece...grinder needed to clean up rough edges.

Works great...still not a plasma torch. ;)
With a 235 Arc cranked all the way up....cuts though 1/4 inch easily. And the power company loves it.

MJ:rolleyes:

Plasma cutters are a little different from carbon arc gouging, at least in theory.

As you said the carbon arc gouging basically melts metal, then uses a stream of air to blast it away. Very affective, but not real precise.

The principle behind plasma cutting is that a stream of air is heated until it turns into plasma (reallly REALLY hot) then shoots out the nozzle at the work piece aided by the magnetic pull caused by the polarity of the power source and cuts the metal in a very precise very localized cut.

I would agree that carbon arc gouging is probalby all that would be needed on the trail. My interest is in getting a shop plasma cutter using something that a lot of people already have, without having to spend 4 figures on a dedicated plasma cutter.

This seems really feasible, if no one else wants to takle it, I'll try, but it's going to be a couple of months before I'll have my shop/lab back up and working.

Chad

Originally posted by H8monday



Damn, Dave,
If you keep getting all of the talent, capable of building these things banned, we will never be able to build a mobi-plaz :flipoff2: (sorry I couldnt resist, and its only a joke, Please, dont take it any further)


lol - I actually was *against* banning ol' cranky - go figure :p

MobiPlaz - I like it :D

OK now we have the OBA, and even wire feed Mig and tig welding set ups all figured out for the weekend warrior.
And with the plasma cutter poised to being the next must have marvel, the question is who is gonna start working on the PTO CNC machine. Hell there are gona be rigs out there with better shop facilities than most people shops.
I think the trail plaz is a pretty cool idea, but if Im not fabbing a new skid plate on the trail, would it really be any more convenient than a cut off wheel or torch for trail repairs?

Especialy if there is a potential for nuking my nadz:eek:

H8Monday - I think that is why most of us are more interested in a low-buck shop plasma cutter, not necessarily an OBP setup...

Here's a page on how to make a high frequency sparker, might work in this application. Any EE or electricians out there that want to put that diagram into layment terms (ie part numbers at radio shack)?

http://www.geocities.com/lemagicien_2000/hvpage/hvfbpage/hvfb.html

Chad

If you are after the HF/HV excite for the plazma, let me offer a suggestion. Use something you guys know, an ignition coil. Dig up an old ignition coil, and a 4 pin GM ignition module. The module has the internal circuitry to drive the coil (w/out burning out on the first pop). Then you need an oscillator to drive the GM module. That's your first trip to Radio Shack. Pick up a 555 Timer IC. The directions on the back of the package will give you an idea of how to add a couple resistors and a cap to make it run as an oscillator (or "multivibrator" ;) ). Connect the output from the 555 timer to the 'trigger' inputs on the GM module.

You won't be able to get extreme high frequence, but it should be good for 1-2Khz. You then need to couple the high frequency to the current lead for cutting. That's where it gets tricky. You have to protect the ignition coil from the cutting current, while letting the high voltage travel down the wires.

A suggestion is to use a cap rated for high voltage. Given the strength of an ignition coil, you could even use a spark gap to keep the cutting current out of the ignition coil and let the spark jump onto the cutting leads over a fixed (small) gap.

A major concern is to keep the high voltage out of your current source (ie alternator). Frankly, I'm not sure how they are doing this. Maybe the diodes in the alt can block the reverse HV, but I'm not sure enought to risk my Alt. Maybe someone else can help in that area.....

Well, maybe this is a start for someone that has some spare time... :)

555's rock! It's the duct tape of electronics.

Squash

duh ignition coil, I like it. Ok, I kinda understand the your post, and can probably get everything together. Will the 555 come with direction on where and what type of input voltage to hook to it? then just use the output and ground on the coil for my high frequency source. The gap idea to protect the HF generator sounds pretty good, not quite sure how to do it yet, but it shouldn't be too hard to come up with something.

Protecting the power source (be it an alternator, or in my case a DC welder) is probably going to be the stumbling block. Any thoughts on that?

I never thought I'd regret switching from EE to ME, especially on this board :)

Chad

If someone can word the exact questions for me (and understand the answers), I've got a good friend who designs the hot end of plasma cutters for a living ('Hypertherm' in NH) and I could hit him up for technical info.

im4yotas


posted the pic i used to build it

the top one

the part were the + side comes off the alt goes throw the tranformers back wards from hi side to low side then

wich increases the voltage but lowers the amprage

then the - side of the transformer goes to ground on the workpiece and the + side goes to the stinger tungston

were the stinger looks and works like an airbrush

a small jet that i machined out copper has a piece of tungston
going throw it that sticks out of the jet 1/6 of an inch
but the tungston cant touch the copper or you will get shocked
that is why i put the heat swrink around the handle


now you have the air blowing throw that jet at 100psi and you strike that tip of cutter and it cuts

Originally posted by chadl
duh ignition coil, I like it. Ok, I kinda understand the your post, and can probably get everything together. Will the 555 come with direction on where and what type of input voltage to hook to it? then just use the output and ground on the coil for my high frequency source. The gap idea to protect the HF generator sounds pretty good, not quite sure how to do it yet, but it shouldn't be too hard to come up with something.

Protecting the power source (be it an alternator, or in my case a DC welder) is probably going to be the stumbling block. Any thoughts on that?

I never thought I'd regret switching from EE to ME, especially on this board :)

Chad

I've posted a data sheet for the 555 here (it's about 190K):
www.extreme4wheelin.com/tech/LM555_timer.pdf

The 555 can run on up to 18V. So it is nicely compatable with a 12V auto system.

Keeping it from arcing thru the power supply is probably the biggest obstical. Assuming a DC supply, the diodes need to be able to handle the voltage of the HV source. That could be a problem on a household DC welder/supply. Remember, the plasma uses DC- on the electrode, so you need to connect the HV the same way, or the diodes won't stand a chance....

h8monday had a great idea



it might not be CNC or PTO driven
but tha ALT on the jeep will run it

This is all WAY over my head, but I would think you *might* be able to use some parts from a commercial plasma cutter when necessary to handle some of the harder functions.

Originally posted by okcrawler


I've posted a data sheet for the 555 here (it's about 190K):
www.extreme4wheelin.com/tech/LM555_timer.pdf

The 555 can run on up to 18V. So it is nicely compatable with a 12V auto system.

Keeping it from arcing thru the power supply is probably the biggest obstical. Assuming a DC supply, the diodes need to be able to handle the voltage of the HV source. That could be a problem on a household DC welder/supply. Remember, the plasma uses DC- on the electrode, so you need to connect the HV the same way, or the diodes won't stand a chance....

I looked at a 555 today at radio shack, and it looks simple enough. Building the HF source shouldn't be too hard, and protecting it with a gap in the circuit would probably work, or possible a capacitor to filter out the low frequency. Could a large (yeah really large) inductor keep the HF out of the DC source. If I remember from years ago when building speakers, cap's would filter out low frequency, and inductors would filter out high. Granted a 200 amp inductor is going to be huge. Any other thoughts on how to protect DRM's welder :)

If I can get the HF source built, I might try and put it on a simple electric motor (got one laying around) driven alternator with the voltage regulator ripped out (see on-board welder articles), with and try tig welding with it (to see if the HF will work) and to see if it makes the altnator go :nuke:

As for as polarity, I should be able to get that right if I'm paying attention, but doesn't a plasma cutter send both - and + to the torch, ie isn't there an internal spark going on inside the tip, as well as between the tip and the work piece (looks like it in the above pic).

chad

There is a 15-40kV ignition coil circuit using a 555 timer posted here:

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/5322/coildrv.htm

he provides resistor and basic cap sizes in the text & the input is 12VDC at around 5 to 6 amps. Not a problem for any altenator. The nice thing is it's DC so you wouldnt need to mod the altenator to get to the ac side of the diodes. The one at the other board uses an ac approch.

Could you use a blocking diode to keep the HV out of where we dont want it?

Originally posted by flmanyj
im4yotas

posted the pic i used to build it....the top one

a small jet that i machined out copper has a piece of tungston
going throw it that sticks out of the jet 1/6 of an inch
but the tungston cant touch the copper or you will get shocked
that is why i put the heat swrink around the handle



flmanyj, Fantastic job of figuring this out. Thanks for the information.

are there other pics, I'm only seeing the very top pic, and the one of your jeep with what looks like a lathe in the back.

I have a bunch of questions
is there any chance you have dimensions for the jet or tip you made out of copper? And will you share?

Where is a good source for round tungston rod?

and how did you isolate it from the outside of the handle, standoffs?

as a note, I am not sure what kind of heat shrink you used but HF/HV will tend to go through most standard insulations.

For 10kva HF circuits we typically use coaxial cable. The outside is used as a shield/gound plane so that if there is leakage a person touching the cable and ground will not become charcoal. HF/HV even at levels below an amp can kill you.

PVC pipe also makes a good insulator against high voltage.

the electrode in a TIG torch is thoriated tungsten...this is commonly avaliable at most welding supplies in different diameters.

well I went to radio shack last night, and bought all the parts to build the the circuit in the above post with the exception of the coil (cost about $20). got started last night, but I need to go back and get a soldering iron to finish it, not to mention a coil. If it works, I'll try and move onto the next step of testing it with a power source.

flmanyj,

It looks like you built your torch from scratch that is pretty cool, but I doesn't seem like it is truly a plasma cutter, at least in the traditional sense. You are using ac current stepped up by the microwave transformers? The above diagrams show a DC circuit with a high frequency generator. Don't get me wrong, if it works for you it's awesome, but I am curious if we could create a plasma cutter using traditional type circuitry, and a standard (ie more expensive) torch setup.

Chad

chadl,

hows the build going? Any luck?
,

Originally posted by Jaffer


Hummmm ...
Depends on if you stold this idea from Aaron (Team Rush) who this board banned last year for apparently knowing too much.:rolleyes:


:rolleyes: Yeah, that's why he was banned.... It had nothing to do with him being a rude asshole. :shaking:

my buddy has aportable tig setup on his jeep, i showed him how to built a welder out of a gm alt and he has the portable set up form another welder at home. he just has to barly touch the tugstin to the work( some times rev the engine up real quick) and the ark is started. he regulates to amprege with the rpm's and it works great. if he were to add a blow nozzle to the end of the torch it is possible to make an electric cutting torch. the metal would have to be hot enough to " blow through" like a plazma torch. but it would be hard if not imposible to make a stream like ark ( ionized air) to cut acurately. just my $.o2


Cliff

Originally posted by 60WILLYSCJ
chadl,

hows the build going? Any luck?
,



I got the parts a few weeks ago from the circuit shown in one of the above posts, put it together in a friends apartment (I'm kinda homeless right now), and got a decent spark, but not great. The transistor keep over heating, and my 12V power supply was only about half as big as I needed. Anyway, I got the HEI module from Napa, on okcrawlers recomendation, but it comes with 4 wiring tabs, and I can't figure out how to wire it up in the circuit (the transistor only has 3 wiring tabs). Anyway all that was a week ago, now I got a new job, a move coming up, and a wedding coming up so it might be a while before I'll get a chance to take another crack at it. But fear not, I am a CHEAP BASTARD, I will figure out something or someway to make this work, and I'll post it here when I do :)

Chad

Originally posted by 60WILLYSCJ
Could you use a blocking diode to keep the HV out of where we dont want it?

When i was reading the feed back questions im like think, think 2 years of circuit analysis..... think....

DIODE ! (1 way valve ) the alternator uses it the trio to take a sine wave to a saw tooth'ish pattern that gets cliped to 14v with the regulator now we have DC...

A zener diode will pass 1 way but with a set limit on the output. Maybe handy for controling it....

As far a switching a higher voltage sorce a transistor is good for that thay make them very large capacity, or possible an SCR would be better...

BTW: TVs have lots of larger heavy duty components on the HV sections of the board, easy to find lots of these for parts...

-yag
KEEP THE OBP ThREAD ALIVE !!!
-yag

I am not sure if this will help anyone out with this project but this guy built an arc welder from microwave oven parts.

http://www.dansworkshop.com/Homebuilt%20arc%20welder.shtml

HEI schematic

Electronic Ignition Desc. Site -- good reading (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/JET_AV8R/Vision/Ignition/CDI.HTML)


http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/JET_AV8R/Vision/Ignition/hei.gif


let me see top left is (+) to coil (duuhhh see the (+) sign, bot left is (-) to coil... both right sides got to pick up coil there not really a polarity on it as the rotor turning generates a small pulse that triggers the module. So really anythign can pulse it, tie 1 side (-) and input HF on the other...

Im not even sure is this is what your question was? TGIF


edit: corrected the polarity in my statment referencing the "clearly" labeld pic... my bad...
-yag

No, top left is +ve, and connects (I'm pretty sure) to battery voltage as well as to the HEI module and the coil. This explains where the module gets power from, as well, but I don't know why this connection isn't shown in the pic???

Bottom left goes only to the coil, and is basically a pulsed ground connection that completes the circuit to the coil primary on every pulse.

For the OBP, it should just be a matter of replacing the coil with the transformer primary. Might wanna be careful to keep the input pulse amplitude pretty low - those inputs might blow out if you hit 'em with 5V...?

Chris (plainclothes EE)

I am glad you guys are trying it the hard way becouse i have no idea what all that electronic stuff you are messing with

i dont know exzactly how a plasma cutter works so

the thing i made may not be one

but i am aloud to call it what i want becouse i made it

Originally posted by flmanyj
I am glad you guys are trying it the hard way becouse i have no idea what all that electronic stuff you are messing with

i dont know exzactly how a plasma cutter works so

the thing i made may not be one

but i am aloud to call it what i want becouse i made it

flmanyj,

What ever you made works, and that's awesome, call it a raybeam if you want :) But my goal is to make something that would allow a plasma torch to be used on any typical DC welder.

Thanks for all the posts guys, what I really need to know is how to get the signal from point 3 on the 555 to the collector (or is it emitter) on the transistor. As you can see from the HEI diagram, that part of the built in transistor goes through a signal convertor, which has two inputs, where as the diagram in 60willyscj geocities posts only has one input to the transistor, I'm wondering if I can open up the HEI, and bypass the signal convertor, or if I need someother input to that signal convertor to make this work.

The other option is just to keep my (weak) transistor I currently have, and get the bigger power supply, I think that will give me the spark I need, but I'm worried that in a short time the transistor would over heat, and it would quit working, but if you only need a pilot arc, and can turn it off after striking the main arc, it might work.

BTW cwate, glad to see you in this, you seem to be the king when it comes to stuff like this :)

Any other thoughts

Chad

Maybe this will help:

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/welder/arcstarter/hf.html

Originally posted by Stephenw
Maybe this will help:

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/welder/arcstarter/hf.html

Not a bad first post newbie :) Lots of good information there that might take me in another direction, but it appears that design is more along the lines of how the store bought ones work, so it might be the way to go, course I got all the other parts already, so I might see if it will work first.

Thanks again for the info.

chad

id be very careful when using an ignition coil for things it wasnt intended to do... two years ago i was working on building a small tesla coil, and was experimenting with using an ignition coil for part of it. i had it hooked up so that it gave out a spark, much like the one on http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/5322/coildrv.htm anyway, i ran it for about 15 seconds, and it must have gotten too hot or something, because it blew up. the cap on the end literally shot off, the oil inside exploded all over everything, including myself. luckily i was wearing eye protection, so i didnt get hurt, but it could have been a potentially dangerous situation.

what did i learn... think before you mess with high frequencies, capacitors, coils, etc. and always wear protection.

If an ignition coil isn't hot enough for tis try one out of a Kerosene Space heater, they are much hotter than what we run on our rigs. They will ignite unpressurized atomized diesel fuel.

Good luck to those trying this and I hope it works OBP would be awesome

cwate - thank you for keeping this thing on track... !!! With the colective brain power here this will be a doable project...

chadl- thanks for taking the time for the hands on !!!!

HEI Module...
This is just a guess here, but for the input on the HEI mod. I would input your transitors output into a lead on the signal amplifier inputs. Just pick one... Tie the other low (-) and see what happens. I remember reading somting a few years back that all that "black box" in the amplifier stage is a few more transisters to clean up the input and trigger the larger main trainster... Can you maybe get a lower output 555 like a mosfet or other low power device? This way you wont overdrive the HEI module.... I have a few more ideas on how to bypass everything like you want to....... let me do some book work.....

flmanyj - dude you must be friends with al gore or somthing, with all this "you invented it" shit, im surprised your not hanging will bill gates at the geek house...

I don't know you, so ill give you the benifit of the doubt in that you have a clue about how all this works so cool beans... And just cause you got an in and had some wizz kid where you work pencil it out for you, great.... But IMHO your really fucking yourself as far as thing around here go...

We WILL figure this shit out and when we all do, you will be long forgotten and only mentioned for what you are..... an ASS HOLE !

:flipoff:

-yag

Originally posted by chadl


The other option is just to keep my (weak) transistor I currently have, and get the bigger power supply, I think that will give me the spark I need, but I'm worried that in a short time the transistor would over heat, and it would quit working, but if you only need a pilot arc, and can turn it off after striking the main arc, it might work.

Chad

Chad,
Thanks for doing the hands on and forging ahead.
My understanding of the circuit says the transistor isnt as big of a problem as the transformer. A transistor is essentially a switch, which in this case is turning 12v on and off to the coil based on the frequency set by the 555 timer circuit.

The ignition coil takes the 12v and charges its primary coils, when the transistor changes state, the magnetic field shifts the energy to the coils secondary. This change bumps the voltage from 12 to about 20kv or more. A buddy suggested we look at one of the 60kv type aftermarket coils to get more spark. The geocities site mentioned using several other types of transformers.

I dont know what voltage level a professional plasma cutter works at, if someone does that might give us a clue what voltage/frequency range we need to ignite the plasma.

87JeepWrangler,
It sounds like you have played with tesla coils, the circuit on the geocities site was origionaly used for firing a Jacobs ladder so it is along the same idea. Do you have any circuits for an hv generator that would work better?

btt

Still working... Need used/cheap DC buzz box, and plasma cutter torch to finish my experiment... Post results when I find them

later

Chad

need a simple writeup and how to for the dumb guys ;)

I'll ditto the above post

Can someone add a little more info on the orignal post. I email tha guy and got no reply. I am more intrested in the stinger handle. I understand the rest of it.

just found this post......

(LOL shaking head) Only on the PBB would people be creating such a thing! I have no idea about what your talking about at all, nore did I know how a plazma cutter works. I do however have an idea after reading all 4 pages!



But My hats off to ya! and hope it works!

-jerry-

So last night I'm going through some of the packed up boxes out in the garage from my move, and I stubled across all this electronic equipment, you guessed it, my on-board/home-made, plasma cutter project. I apologize for letting this slip so much, I promise to dedicate all my free time (approximately 15 minutes a week) to getting this thing to work :)

OK, based on the circuit above using the 555 timer and other junk, I was never able to get a good spark. I originally thought it was the lack of amps from my 1.5 amp power supply, so last night, I hooked it up to a car battery (actually one of those jump start kits, but the same thing). I still wasn't getting a much of a spark, and after playing around with it for a while, I heard a loud crack, and then I wasn't getting any spark. I think the transistor let the smoke out, it was always getting too hot, and last night it got really hot (you couldn't touch it) prior to :nuke:

So now I'm kinda back to square one, using the HEI module posted above, would work I think since it's designed for creating a healthy spark, but I never could figure out how to wire it up, so come on pirates, throw out the collective knowledge! Or maybe I need to try a new circuit all together, or maybe I'd be better off going with an existing high frequency high voltage source like a ballast from a florecent light, or something else? Once we get this figured out, the rest should be easy, just a DC welding power supply, and a plasma torch.

Chad

Does anyone know where the HEI gets it's input in a standard ignition setup, sorry I'm ignition dumb (meaning mine hasn't broke yet). could we just mimick that signal, after all, the spark from a good ignition system without the highly resistive coil and spark plug wires would be more than enough for hf start on a plasma cutter or tig welder.

Chad

just ripped apart my shop plasma cutter to see if I could copy it...

see what you started?

Look up Tesla Coil circuits. They are all over the web. Here's one I found on Google..

http://misty.com/people/don/hvinvert.htm

This one is a flyback transformer based unit that they claim 30KV output from a 12V source.

There are a number of ignition coil circuits available as well. I've never worked on DC solid state coil designs, all my coils are AC + spark gap style.

The Tesla Coil will get you the HF/HV spark you need for a pilot arc. Then you need the high amperage, low voltage power to sustain it. Once the arc is started, it will conduct quite well and you don't need the high voltage. You should be able to sustain the plasma from just about any high-current DC power supply. The trick is isolating that DC supply from the HF/HV pilot arc power supply. The high voltages will arc through the insulation on the DC supply and burn it out if you're not carefull. A decent low-pass filter between the two with a safety spark gap should take care of it.

This is a typical protection network for another sensitive part in Tesla Coils, the neon sign transformer, or NST.

http://hot-streamer.com/TeslaCoils/Misc/NSTFilt.jpg

I use a similiar one in my NST powered coils to protect the transformer. You could use one leg of that circuit on your plasma cutter to isolate the HF/HV side from the DC power side.

THE site for coilers is:

http://www.pupman.com/

There you will find more than you ever wanted to know about Tesla Coils. I can offer some knowledge about coils and electronics, but I don't have a suitable power supply for the plasma project that I'm willing to risk to the HV. My Mig is off-limits to this sort of thing. Once I get a buzz box or OBW I'll try to play with it.

After reading through this thread for the first time I only have two contributations. Two good sources for HF transformers are neon sign ballasts (friend built "Jacob's ladder" out of one) and the HF coil out of a TV. If I remember right the coil from a TV puts out 30,000 volts.

Y'all can also get a good step up transformer out of an older black and white dummy terminal monitor or cathode ray tube. The older ones have a pigtail going into the back of the CRT that generates 27,000 volts used to charge the monitor. It runs off of 6v power, so a resister would have to be wired in. Not sure how you would control the spark either.

The monitors are still installed at most Ford service and parts houses. Universal Computer Systems and Ford Dealer Computers still repair them. I'll try to contact some of my old buddies still working there!!

However.....

If you are going to pull one off, be sure to have something handy like a long insulated screwdriver to downcharge it before attempting to remove it, as it will shock the piss out of ya.

I have attached a pic editd for timer hook up, this should work, see what your timer out put values are...

See this page...... http://www.lindertech.com/ign_coil.htm
it shows a good pic of how small of a signal is really needed.. So a timer shoudl be ok

....for testing perposes you can maunally trigger the module and see if you get a spark on the plug.

(replace coil with other transformer later on)

let me know if this works, if not ill go to Rshack and get some do-dads and test this in parallel with ya... Id like ot get this going for a little garage brew project....

post a pic of your wireing set up if you can....
-yag

aaa the old 555 timer


made lots of thow in eletroics class :eek:

Only thing I can add is the arc voltage in plasma is about 100-200 volts.

They used shielded cups in Europe due to the risk of shock that a welder (10-30+ v) doesn't present.
Ken

why not use a marx generator for the startup spark?

You can generate insane voltage from them and once it fires, it remains completely isolated from the system.

http://www.kronjaeger.com/hv/hv/src/marx/

is 10cm a big enough spark? :D

Originally posted by zukipuke
I have attached a pic editd for timer hook up, this should work, see what your timer out put values are...

See this page...... http://www.lindertech.com/ign_coil.htm
it shows a good pic of how small of a signal is really needed.. So a timer shoudl be ok

....for testing perposes you can maunally trigger the module and see if you get a spark on the plug.

(replace coil with other transformer later on)

let me know if this works, if not ill go to Rshack and get some do-dads and test this in parallel with ya... Id like ot get this going for a little garage brew project....

post a pic of your wireing set up if you can....
-yag

That diagram is exactly what I tried. Along with a couple of other attempts with the HEI. I cannot get any spark with the HEI, maybe I fried it by accidently hooking it up backwards (the diagram of the HEI is nice, but when looking at the actual module, I don't know what is top or bottom, so I could have hooked it up backwards and cooked it.

I'm going to swing by radio shack this weekend, and pick up another diode, or two. I must admit I don't know electronics really beyond DC at least. How much load is going through the diode? Could I run a couple of parrell to reduce the load (and hopefully the heat) on the diode. I appreciate all the help. I'm really beginning to think it would be easier to start with an existing hv/hf source, but then I guess I wouldn't learn anything (like how to burn the $hit out of my fingure with a solder iron)

Chad

I work in an inorganics lab(metals) and we use Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometers which use a large RF generator to produce the 1200-1500 volts needed for the Argon plasma. The ignition is actually through an automotive spark plug wire that's cut off at the end and lays against the outside of the glass torch, which has the plasma inside it. You could probably find an old ICP RF generator, since so many labs use old equipment and are going out of business frequently. I know absolutely nothing about how plasma cutters ignite and sustain a plasma, but I will talk with my supervisor since he repaired ICP's for about 15 years and see if he can come-up with a more simplified version.

Well I thought I'd bump this back to the top.

Maybe we can all PM flmanyj and see if he can post a rough wiring diagram of his set up.

I've already got my start on collecting pieces for a homebrew plasma torch as you can see below.:D
Also I've enlisted the aid of an electrical engineer buddy of mine so I should get this thing going!

Got an email from my friend,
The plasma systems work by making the gas carry the current. This happens
by using (probably) high voltage radio frequency to ionize the gas , which
would allow the current to flow. The power in the exciter is probably about
100 watts, but I have no idea what the frequency would be. My best guess
is that it is a few hundred killohertz, but it might run into the megahertz.
It would have to be outside of the broadcast spectrum, or you would drive
every radio within miles nuts.


I can believe that a microwave transformer can supply the HV needed to
perform welding. What is needed (I believe) to make a plasma torch is an
RF exciter supplying about 100 watts of power.


Now it may be possible to do this a slightly different way, but probably a
less efficient way.


The plasma torch needs 2 power sources. One is AC and one is DC.


The AC source is what excites and ionizes the gas and allows it to
carry the current. A single microwave transformer would probably
work for this. It would be necessary to regulate the power into the
transformer to prevent it from over heating, after all we only need
enough power to ionize (arc) between the electrodes in the tip.


The DC source is a little more complicated. It looks like it needs to
be a fairly high voltage DC source. My guess is probably at least
400 VDC at about 10 amps. This is about 4000 watts and is way
to much for a 110VAC outlet. It is probably ok to scale this down
to 400VDC at about 4 to 5 amps, but your cutting power would
be reduced also. The problem here is getting the high voltage
high current diodes. Most diodes (rectifiers) in microwave ovens
will handle up to 7000 volts, but they will only carry about a max
of 1 amp. To get the maximum output power you would need a
bridge rectifier arrangement. Since the diodes are going to be
the hardest thing to find, the easiest thing to do would be to
use 2 microwave transformers in a tapped halfbridge circuit.
This cuts your rectifier needs down by a factor of 2 and doubles
the available current. You would still need to parallel several
rectifiers together to get the 4 to 5 amps of current.


I attached a crude gif of the DC power supply schematic (example).

If you need crazy ass voltage may I suggest using a transistor (or is it a transformer..whatever the hell it is) off of a neon sign. I made a ozone genorator for a friend to keep the smell of his dope closet down. Those puppies range from about 7000 to 10000 volts, at least the ones I've seen. Dont know if that helps any but hey, lots of little random info builds up. :)

This is just btt and just wondering about the coil thing what about the one on the TFIs.

dammit.. still no junkyard parts list and schematic for us retards??? If this could be built from scratch for under $150 in parts.. i'd be all over it..

Originally posted by evilpsych
dammit.. still no junkyard parts list and schematic for us retards??? If this could be built from scratch for under $150 in parts.. i'd be all over it..


I see this ending in :nuke:


If you don't know enough electical engineering you don't need to be touching anything with 4000 watts and a megatron! :flipoff2:

IMHO :beer:

Where are we at on this thing?

I don't know a thing about electronics but my old man was chief electrical engineer for Rockwell Int for a number of years. He is semi retired now and loves to tinker. I can share all this with him- although I know he'll wind up shaking his head, mumbling about what an asshole I am like he did when I was 19....but he'll help if I feed him beer and listen to his ramblings about how I'm gonna eventually kill myself messin with shit I have no business playing around with.

i know enough about electronics to know that the 555 circuit is probably the best, read: safest, suggested route in terms of generating a HF signal for an onboard plas, safest for our vehicle circuits too.. and that any moron that tries to use a flyback transformer from a television or computer monitor is just asking to die. Those things.. are super dangerous.. and hold a lethal charge for a LONG time.. wouldn't wanna see one get wet as an underhood device probably will end up being.. I def don't wanna use a magnetron from a microwave if i don't have to. i like my testicles thank you very much.


now if i wanted to build an onboard HERF gun on the other hand.......... :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

After reading the the first post, I got extremely excited. The
subsequent 6 pages lowered my moral. I think this needs to come
back to the top. Maybe someone else can shed some light on this
topic.

Originally posted by Thomas A. Conte
The subsequent 6 pages lowered my moral.

Wouldn't have anything to do with a bunch of crazy talk, would it? :)

Its not the 12th yet, so binders, don't even ask...

First you have to take the sionic temperal transducer, like this one:
http://www.diywelder.com/media/images/101803-statorwithwiresrdady_5504.JPG

Then you need to create an event horizon by using a superfine dynaflat 98BDF adaptor:
http://www.diywelder.com/media/images/092503-22SIunknownchunktornopen_4298.JPG

Make sure to scare away any alaskan monkies before proceeding:
http://www.diywelder.com/images/bear8.jpg

Then put it in a box where it won't hurt anyone:
http://www.diywelder.com/images/koreascott/072203-secondprototype_4614.JPG

Sorry, I'm just looking for an excuse to not do my homework. If you haven't found out already, the above are just random images. :(

However, don't worry...just wait. Something will happen soon.

I saw this post and immediately thought of "69travelall". Amazed that it took 6 pages before you posted. Maybe you didn't see it until now. If anyone can get this working, I'm sure you can.

Still working on my switch. I'll be taking some pictures in the next few days.

So here it is winter and no instuctions on this yet.BTT

Tease. C'mon, is anyone still working on this? Can anyone else
add anything?

I'm an electrical engineer and a master tool and die maker. I have a full electronics lab and can do the design and even layout printed circuit boards. That's what I do for a living. For fun, I build and destroy Jeeps.

If anybody can find me a more accurate description of the electrical requirements, I can design the schematic and build a prototype.

Here are a some of the things that we need to know:

What is the open contact voltage?
What is the strike voltage?
What is the normal operating frequency of the ionizing source? It most likely is in the industrial equipment band, so interference isn't a problem.
Roughly what is the wattage required for the RF source?
During operation, what is the arc voltage?

I can tell you guys that this isn't going to be made simply from a 555 timer and an ignition coil, but the coil might be used for a strike source. The output of the RF source along with its associated power can be quite lethal. I designed the terrain following radar on the F111 and the sub hunting radar on the S3A Viking. RF burns from screwing around with magnetrons can be quite nasty and even lethal. If we design this, it will have to be done in a manner so as to make it as safe as possible. I am willing to fund the design and parts, I just need you guys to do the legwork.

You can email me any info at tom at A-V-T.com

My recommendation is to use an off the shelf hose/nozzle setup and only fab the power supply.

Personally I was hoping that Santa Claus would bring me a plasma cutter for Christmas, but she's been kind of cranky lately.

The answer to many of your questions are unknown. Someone
with knowledge needs to start putting together something kind of
on the fly. Then make a schematic of it and refine the design. I
think it is fantastic that you want to help but it's as if you want
the chicken before you have the egg.

There is a schematic several pages back that shows everything. Basically it's nothing more than a DC power source similiar to a welder (or modified car alternator). Open circuit DC voltage is probably between 60 and 100 or so. The high frequency is strictly to start and maintain the arc (ionizing the gas between the tip and the steel/outer cup). It's at several thousand volts and 2000 Hz or something.

The two problems are building the HF circuit that works, but won't kill you, and keeping the HF from frying the DC power supply, and keeping the DC from frying the HF circuit during operation (since both operate over the same wires).

I worked on this for a while, but could never get the 555 / ignition coil to make a decent spark, probably didn't have the right components (power rating wise anyway).

If someone could show me how to build a safe and cheap HF circuit that spark over a 1/2" are gap reliable, I'll build it and put it on my alternator driven welder to see how it works in a tig type setup. If the HF doesn't fry the alternator rectifier, I might pony up and buy the plasma torch setup.

What bugs me is that the compoents for a plasma cutter and a tig welder are almost idientical with the exception of the torch, I can't believe some manufacturer hasn't combined the two tools into a single reasonably priced setup.

Chad

#1: You do not need HF HV to make a plasma cutter.

#2: There is nothing the same about a TIG welder and plasma cutter except that they both (can) have a high frequency start and transformer.

#3: A stock alternator needs serious modifications to be a plasma cutter. Not enough voltage.

OCV: 170-280vDC
Ideal CCV: 100vDC

Forget the ionizing powersupply. Makes things soo much easier.
You don't even need antying as complex as a 555 timer, technically. :)

Here is an old video of my plasma power supply. 100v@25-27A

Save it, then play it.

MOVIE (http://www.cmosxray.com/alttest500k.wmv)

Two 1500watt hair dryers and a 500w halogen light. 100v loaded, somewhere around 350vDC OCV.

http://diywelder.com/media/images/102603-whatitlookslike_5548.jpg

I will make another thread when I'm ready to say more. This thread is full of message farts. :mad: :D

Nice video and site, but more info please!!!

I'll apologize for any errors in my last post, I was going off of memory from when I looked into this several months ago, but I really didn't think that plasma cutters used such a high open circuit voltage.

I do remember reading about one type of cutter that didnt' use HF to start the spark, instead used some type of lifting piece within the nozzle to initiate the spark, is that what you are talking about when you say that HF isn't necessary.

My OBW alternator can easily maintain 100 v DC at 26 amps why wouldn't it work for a plasma cutter? Is the open circuit voltage not high enough? Is the voltage not stable enough? Something else?

There are a lot of wrong ideas in this thread, some probably initiated by me, but that's how we learn, it's better to throw out a bad idea and debate it than to not bring up a good idea at all.

Chad

Here is a wiring diagram of an Esab Powercut 650.

http://frankenfab.com/Esab.jpg

The basics:

PCB1 is the control card which provides the timing and control functions. The internal workings are not shown (proprietary information).

Top center is transformer T2, which provides all the voltages needed for the power supplies (which are built into PCB1.)

On the left is a D/C circuit which supplies two IGBTs. IGBT stands for insulated gate bipolar transistor. They provide a pulsed D/C to transformer T1 primaries. By controlling the IGBTs, the output current of T1 can be controlled. Notice transformer T4. It is a current transformer that supplies output current information (of T1) to the PCB1 control board. T1 puts out an A/C voltage.

D1 is a bridge rectifier. It converts the A/C output of T1 back to D/C.

On the bottom right is T5. It gets 115 V A/C from the PCB1 controller board. It is the device that creates the high voltage at high frequency. T3 is a transformer that puts the high voltage onto the current from T1. This high voltage at high frequency, ionizes the air and the current from T1 rides on the ionized air to form the plasma.

Sorry guys, but this isn't in the same ball park as wiring your own LED tail lights. Save up your change and buy one.

alternator can easily maintain 100 v DC at 26 amps

I seriously doubt that. 26v@100v is 2600 watts, which is twice the output of a 120A@14v alternator. But go ahead and try putting a hair dryer or halogen light on it and report what the CCV is. I have never had an alternator do that.

but that's how we learn
I know, thats me 100%. Just thinking a clean spot would be better. :)

Lift-arc technology. Just use a 1000w 10ohm resistor in series with the constriction nozzle, tip. The start cartridge draws an arc.

Info? Bring all three phases of the alternator outside and isolate them. Build 3 voltage doublers and place them all in series. One doubler per phase. Each doubler will need about 4,000uf to sustain the load.

At 110v 25A each phase is at about 19vAC.

All the binders are smileing, cause they've had this info for a while. :emb4: :D

Originally posted by grant-69travelall


I seriously doubt that. 26v@100v is 2600 watts, which is twice the output of a 120A@14v alternator. But go ahead and try putting a hair dryer or halogen light on it and report what the CCV is. I have never had an alternator do that.

I know, thats me 100%. Just thinking a clean spot would be better. :)

Lift-arc technology. Just use a 1000w 10ohm resistor in series with the constriction nozzle, tip. The start cartridge draws an arc.

Info? Bring all three phases of the alternator outside and isolate them. Build 3 voltage doublers and place them all in series. One doubler per phase. Each doubler will need about 4,000uf to sustain the load.

At 110v 25A each phase is at about 19vAC.

All the binders are smileing, cause they've had this info for a while. :emb4: :D

I'll test my alternator this weekend, you might be right... I know it has between 130 and 140 volts at open current, but I'm no EE so it might drop down under 100 with 25 amps or so on it.

Thanks for the info, I guess I'll do some research on what you talked about with voltage doubles and such, I did check out your page, and signed up for the list, got any good places I could start learning?

Chad,

I like scouts, I'd have one parked next to my jeep, but I can't afford them... divorces are expensive. :)

Chad

I've got a 24-150 electrodyne (nothing better than them) and they drop down to 120v from 150v with a 3A load.

But they give 200+A at 25v...enough to stall two 5HP electric motors. :cool:

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
I've got a 24-150 electrodyne (nothing better than them) and they drop down to 120v from 150v with a 3A load.

But they give 200+A at 25v...enough to stall two 5HP electric motors. :cool:

Since I have you tied up, I don't suppose you could explain what these do in laymens terms. I have a basic grasp of the 3 phase alternating power that I would feed them, but what do the voltage doubles do to the feed and what comes out of them.

Please... please.... please broaden my horizons :)

Chad

24v 150A electrodyne alternator. Brushless. Doesnt' know if its running in submerged in mud, water, air, or water.

E-mail me. This is becomming chit-chat.

grant at stockly dot com

I need more info on that plasma cutter flmanyj made. I would be willing to buy a pre-press copy of a book/plans. I have been putting together a home-made plasma cutter, but I dont think the torch I am using is working out...


Any help would be super!

Thanks,
Daniel

I did not read the whole thread(whats new, making a comment when you have no idea what has been mulled through) but, my Ready Welder will cut (melt, burn through, slice, dice, whatever) 1/4" too...... Oh, and it can also weld...:flipoff2:

Originally posted by cheaphardwarez
I need more info on that plasma cutter flmanyj made. I would be willing to buy a pre-press copy of a book/plans. I have been putting together a home-made plasma cutter, but I dont think the torch I am using is working out...


Any help would be super!

Thanks,
Daniel
A thread that went to 5 pages where the original poster NEVER gave any details on the construction and the last post was a year and 8 days ago.....do you really think you're gonna get any usefull replies?:shaking:

BTT.

any more news on this? frankly, even if it's just a tungsten rod cutter w/ air added to blow the slag away, can't complain.

Originally posted by Overkiller
Ok since Flmanyj isn't going to make it easy on us does anyone know how a plasma cutter works? I've only used shop ones and you just plugged in electricity and air and presto. We can all figure out how to get on board air and a welder so what goes on in the magic box and how can we cheaply duplicate it?

Travis

I'm sure it's been answered since I'm only at page 2 of 5 or 6... but here's an interesting read...
http://www.howstuffworks.com/plasma-cutter.htm
Billy

EDIT - didn't realize this thread is old as hell :flipoff2:

It's simple, buy a "Lift arc" torch, use nice dry compressed air, about 250 open curciut voltage and about 100 volts closed curcuit DC. and Shpladow! instant plasma cutter :flipoff2:

Lets bnring this back from the dead. Any word?

Dima

It's simple, buy a "Lift arc" torch, use nice dry compressed air, about 250 open curciut voltage and about 100 volts closed curcuit DC. and Shpladow! instant plasma cutter :flipoff2:


:flipoff2: thats all there is to it.. the hard part is just getting that much power, that's why he used three alternators....

:flipoff2: thats all there is to it.. the hard part is just getting that much power, that's why he used three alternators....


I thought he just used three step-up transformers with one alternator.... I've had this in the back of my head for a while and I've collected two transformers from TV's. I'll have my dad look at it some day and see what he can do, he's good with all that electical crap and I'm well.........not :flipoff2:

he probably hasn't posted because he was electrocuted while starting his rig in the mud....

yea, one of you stoopid asses is gonna die from gettin shocked in the nutsack

yea, one of you stoopid asses is gonna die from gettin shocked in the nutsack

Let me be the first. Will someone please give me the instructions on building the fucking torch?! :(

flmanyj, get your ass on here and post some mf'in instructions. :mad3:

just buy one you cheap ass, thats what i did! lol

just buy one you cheap ass, thats what i did! lol

NEVER! :flipoff2:

anyone want to give a shot at picking out the true facts? is the HF arc starter worth the effort, from someone who has experience? how do you build a TIG welder? those freakin things cost too much, too. How many Watts can you get out of an alternator, in three phase? The scope of this should be limited to garage use. Anyone have a good drawing of a hand powered tube bender? heck, maybe i'll just have to make up a thread about that.

Just mourning the loss of some excellent tech. :(

thats my old screen name i switched ISP providers and lost my pass word:flipoff2: