Looking for pictures of peoples intake systems that were custom made. I don't have the OEM air filter tube and need to make something.

Was considering running it down towards the passenger front near the grill/battery area.

Also who sells the oval to round adaptor to attach to the oval TPI air filter connection?

Here is mine....
It aint pretty, but it sure is ugly:flipoff2:
But it was nearly free and it works.

Thanks, I did see yours when I did a search however I do not have the stock intake tube like you do.

What did you use for a throttle cable? I think mine (connected to a carb) will be to short.

Its a Lokar cable.
Youre right the factory carb throttle cable is waaay to short.

Scavenge some local bone yards for the intake tubing.
The elbow I used is a piece of PVC tubing I found in a scrap car.

Can you get a picture of how teh cable attaches to the gas pedal?

Also got a pic of your fuel lines? I assume you have am OEM tank?
i have one similar to a blazer, between the frame rails.

Here's mine:
http://www.scotthansen.net/images/163.jpg
You can get all the stuff to do this from http://www.jagsthatrun.com except for the 90 degree boot right off the throttlebody. That came from an LT1 car, and I turned it over.

you can buy nice 90* alum parts from summit and jegs.

you can also use the stock t-cable from the camaro

Does the fuel pump have to be lower than the tank? How would it work if it were mounted at about mid tank?
Also does the fuel line need a loop in it near the pump?

Im running an external pump mounted lower than the tank.
Its necessary to do so because the pump will lose its prime and get killed (ask how I know)
Im not happy with the external pump...too loud.
Im in the process of switching over to an 89 K5 tank. For two reasons, its got internal baffles which are necessary when running an in-tank pump. Its much larger than my OE 16 gallon saddle tank.

I know I am ghetto and all that shit, but wouldnt some sched 40 pvc do the trick? I like Odins, I may copy more of you than you originally thought!

Thanks for the info. I will mount mine below the tank, just not sure where a safe place would be. The current pump is in the frame rail.

I am going to try and make an intake out of aluminum tube.

I built mine out of pvc and painted it black so it looked better. I ran it to the pass rear corner of the engine compartment and built a box around the air filter to keep water out. Seemed to work very well till it sucked water in somehow.

Thanks for all the input. I am going to use 3" aluminum tube. Buy a couple 90's, a 45, and a straight piece. Tape it together and have a friend weld it together. Maybe use my stock Duramax air box for a box.

Odin or My Willys-what size An fitting did you use to screw into the OEM fuel rail fittings?

Also how did you plumb feed and return lines into the tank and what fittings did you use?

Any good pic's of these fittings?

3/8" feed line and what size return?

These are the adapters you'll need to run -6 AN line to your fuel rail.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-74730/
Here is a pic of my fuel rail. I used -6 180 fittings to run the lines down the right side of the frame rail where the external pump is mounted.

Odin's looks real purdy with the braided line. No offense here, but this is why I like using the Vette rail. I just used a 3/8 supply, and 5/16 return with high pressure fuel hose.
http://scotthansen.net/images/fuelline.jpg

If ur willing to pay shipping mike, you can have the airbox and all the crap with it from my 03 silverado.

I built mine out of pvc and painted it black so it looked better.

when PVC is heated it lets off fumes that can have a negative impact on your engine life... just beware of that fact

What's beer about the vette rails?

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of running my lines down the drivers side since there is where the current pump is and where the new one will most likely go.

Overdosed-thanks but no thanks :)

What's beer about the vette rails?

Vette rails go towards the PS of the vehicle where F-body fuel rails go toward the DS like Odins.

The motor I got ('92 Camaro I think) the rails go towards the drivers side.

Got it, thanks.

What's beer about the vette rails?

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of running my lines down the drivers side since there is where the current pump is and where the new one will most likely go.

Overdosed-thanks but no thanks :)

I think they make better conversions, or at least look better. See the difference:
http://www.scotthansen.net/images/newmotor2.jpg

What's beer about the vette rails?



Nothing:flipoff2:

They exit straight which gets in the way of the alternator, if its on the pass side like mine.

Nothing:flipoff2:

They exit straight which gets in the way of the alternator, if its on the pass side like mine.

Ahh! Good point, I must have long waterpump envy.

How do I interface high pressure line to this mess? Looks like they are just slip on/clamp on type lines.

This is a ford van tank the last owner put in.
Would it be worth it to get a different tank with a high pressure pump internal?

I have an external pump already from a tBi kit, is it the right amount of pressure?

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94832-1/tank_lines.jpg

That thing needs a date with a sandblaster. You can clamp the high pressure hose right to those points without a problem. TBI, and TPI are way different pressures though. You need a pump capable of 50 psi IMHO. GM used 6 different pressures for TPI. 305's used 34 psi in 85, 37 psi in 86, and 87, and 41 in mid year 88 and up. 350's used 40 psi in 85, 43 psi in 86, and 87, and finally 47 from mid 88 and up. Tell me your fuelrail number that starts with 1708xxxx and I can tell you what it came from.
FYI:
I always like to see the use of a smaller injector at a higher pressure than bigger with less.

I'll get the numbers tomorrow but I am pretty sure it's a 305 from a '92 camaro.
I already have 24lb injectors on the way to use on my crate 350.
Only think I am unsure of is the tuning which I will be able to do with the Painless 'Perfect' system. It has a stock tune but it's for the 260HP crate where as mine is the 290 version which I think is just a different cam.

I have a book called TPIS its ALL about TPI motors and has tips about getting more power out of them for cheap and such, and you can get a noticeable gain just from upping the fuel press some from stock. I agree with MrWillys you ideally need a fuel pump capable of 50psi and it'd be nice to have an adjustable fuel press regulator..

I want to do it right the first time to minimize issue out on the trail.
I don't need tons of HP just a reliable trail rig.

Any pumps I should avoid?

Did you guys use internal or external pumps?

From what I have read internal is the better set-up.

Which tank would be the best? Stock or aftermarket suggestions?

I'll get the numbers tomorrow but I am pretty sure it's a 305 from a '92 camaro.
I already have 24lb injectors on the way to use on my crate 350.
Only think I am unsure of is the tuning which I will be able to do with the Painless 'Perfect' system. It has a stock tune but it's for the 260HP crate where as mine is the 290 version which I think is just a different cam.

The painless system is a HUGE waste of money IMO.
I run a PROM from an 87 Vette in the 165 ECM and my junk runs great.
The engine is a Vortec headed 355 with a mild hyd roller and 10.0 to 1 comp.

More questions about tanks. I want to try and adapt my current ford van tank to use with this TPI system. Mainly because it came with the truck and fits where I need it, plus will save me from buying a GM tank and sender. The problem is this tank has no baffles, how important are they for TPI?
Here's a couple pic's of the sending unit and pick-up tubes. I plan on installing a GM pump where the measuring tape is.

Suggestions?

doubt you will ever notice the missing baffels.


i forgot to mention that you can also flip the rails around and point the fuel line out the rear.

That's good to hear :)

Where did you mount your ECM? Only place I can think of is in front of the shifter in the cab. maybe get a small metal box to set it in.

i never finished it and sold it all a while ago.

You NEED a baffled tank.
With TPI, fuel is flowing to and from the rails at a fast rate, due to the return style regulator.
With no baffles the pickup will be exposed and cause a drop in fuel pressure once the level drops below 1/3.

Bla! Thanks for the info. Guess my project just got pushed back until I can find a suitable tank. Think a late model tahao tank will work since the fuel inlet is in the center of the tank IIRC. My truck's inlet is made to be routed just below the tailgate in the center.

Any other suggestions and where did you mount your ECM?

I extended the stock harness about 6 feet and mounted the ECM in the cab behind the seat.

Thanks.
What tank did you use? Any pic's of the connections to it? Any links to pic's of your swap?

Another question on the fuel pressure regulator. Does it need a vacuum port?
The Mallory doesn't seem to have one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4315/

It probably has one on the back. TPI programming is designed to have vacuum reduce fuel pressure in high vacuum operation. They don't do it in newer motors, but it was back then.

Heres mine

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/1sweetyj/th_100_4288.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/1sweetyj/?action=view&current=100_4288.jpg)

Couple more questions.
I priced the OEM fuel pressure regulator from a GM tech. His price is $125 and he says you can't just buy the diaphragm to replace. Is there another option or do I need the complete OEM set-up?

I bought a fuel pressure gauge that I wanted to permanently mount to the schraider (sp?) vavle on the passenger rear corner of the fuel rail. The gauge has a 1/4" male connection and the fuel rail looks to have a 3/8 male schraider valve. What type of connector do I need to adapt them? Can I just drill out the stock valve and use home depot pipe fittings or is there a special connector to adapt to the schraider valve?

On a side note I stuffed a suburban tank in between the frame rails and started the wiring.

You can buy just the diaphragm.
Check in the aftermarket.

The pressure gauge your referring to isnt designed to be permanently mounted on the
pressure port.

I'll try and find the regulator. Was trying to stick with GM on that part.

Would it be bad to have a gauge mounted all the time? We have them in out sand cars for reference if we have issues. Guess I could plump it in just before the fuel rails?

I don't have baffles in my 10 gallon tank? I just made sure the return pointed away from the pickup.
Why do you need a new diaphram? Buy a used fuelrail from FleaBay to get another regulator. There's tons out there, and GM used 6 different pressures..... give me an injector number and I'll recommend pressure. Use an adjustable cap, and vacuum is required. I'd also use a new fuelrail O-ring kit and rebuild the entire rail

I was advised to replace the diaphragm since this motor had been sitting for a while. I am trying to avoid issues down the road. Isn't the diaphragm inside the regulator? Also I have an adjustable cap.

I know the pressures I need and the corvette pump will do what I need.

I was advised to replace the diaphragm since this motor had been sitting for a while. I am trying to avoid issues down the road. Isn't the diaphragm inside the regulator? Also I have an adjustable cap.

I know the pressures I need and the corvette pump will do what I need.

Easy turbo, while your pump maybe able of doing the entire cheerleader squad. You need to set base fuel pressure with the regulator. A 24 lb injector rated at 43.5 psi installed with a regulator set to 47 psi is really a 25 lb flowrate.
My diaphram is from 1985.... Should I rush out and change it????

You must have read more into my post as it was no written in a smartassed way. Maybe it sounded that way?
Anyway I know first hand when old rubber parts sit in hot dry climates they break down and crack. Talking carb parts here, not rubbers ;)
I just want to avoid any issues with a new diaphragm.

TBI runs on less than 15 psi. TPI needs 50 + psi. Run an external and you'll be fine. The Walbro 255 GPH seems to be real popular in the TPI conversions. Remember, smaller injector fooled into higher pressure to equal 22 lbs is best. Point: a 19 lb injector installed at 57 psi is a 22 lb injector with an awesome spray pattern.....
School's closed... tequila's taken over!
Cabo in 23 days!
Back at 5:00 am

Point: a 19 lb injector installed at 57 psi is a 22 lb injector with an awesome spray pattern.....


Good info, I never thought of it like that.

I advised him to change the diaphragm. I used a rail that had sat for a few years, the diaphragm split and hydrolocked the engine.
Cheap insurance IMO.


Cabo??? Have fun :D
(jealous)

Any chance you have a part number? Did you use GM or something else?

Any chance you have a part number? Did you use GM or something else?

You might talk with Jim at Jim's performance, but I would think this would be a dealer item. Please use it with an adjustable cap, and 21 lb injectors, and set pressure at 48 psi.