I am getting ready to fab my own gas tank for my '47 2A. I have the design down but I am running into a few unknowns. I searched and found that the baffles can be made out of foam or old oil quarts minus bottoms and caps. I am thinking of going with the oil quarts. Inside seams are coated with POR. Question is:
When welding on the lid, how is the POR going to react to the heat? How did you guys vent the heat? Am I making a mountain out of a mole hill here?

I just don't want to put this damn thing together only to melt the bottles and ignite the POR...Thanks in advance!

why not coat the insides with one of the gas tank sealers on the market? You could also make you own baffles out of steel with a number of smaller holes in them.

Wouldn't a commercial tank sealer also have the same heat problem? I have not worked with either one before...

You seal/coat the insde of the tank after everything is all welded up already.

Pour some in, turn the tank every which way for about 10 min. Then pour any extra out.

Sean

Usually when building a fuel cell we weld it all together then swish whatever coating we are ussing arround inside.
That way the heat does not melt it away. (will end up in your fuel)

When I built my 36 gal. behemoth (waaaayy too big! People keep pulling up next to me asking for a fill up) I had all the 14 gage sheet metal sheared to size and had a few pre bent pieces made. For the internal baffles I just had slightly smaller pieces of 18 gage made. Since the take include a 5 gal sump (help keep the FI getting fuel all the way up Lions Back) I just angled the baffles to force fuel to flow through the sump to get to the other side. As for sealing the tank I just used the Kream product for sealing tanks (Most motorcycle shops have it). BUT do your self a favor and install a few threaded fittings. The main reason is so after welding you can seal up the tank and slap on a $8 natural gas leak down gage from Home Depot our you buddy's tool box. The gages have a sherader valve so you can give your tank a few PSI of air and check for any pin hole leaks. If it holds a charge of air, you rock as a welder. As for me, I think I shot about 5 lbs more of wire in to all my leaky "cold starts". But this ia a way of catching them before any liner or fuel is in the tank you simply grind down the leaky area (soapy water to find as it has + air inside) and hit it with some more weld. I got my tank to only leak down over night by 3 lbs. I then dumped in the Kream liner and it held right at 10 PSI all night, no leaks. Side note, one of our local guys discovered why most OEM's don't weld mounting tabs on to fuel tanks. The body/frame flexes so the stress is put through the tank and its welds. We both took our home built tanks to Moab last May, mine is still strapped in and his is in the scrap heap.


When it comes to hydrocarbons take you time!